I spent 17 Christmases on Virgin Gorda at the Bitter End Yacht Club and Saba Rock. This is not just any Christmas story, this is a sailor’s Christmas story. As a sailor, you’re almost always away from home, and home becomes a kind of idea. But sitting at the Bitter End on a mooring with the bow of the boat bobbing, pointing directly into the trades, the wind a steady 15 knots, you’re protected in the north sound by a deep and long reef filled with fish and other artifacts. It is the elbow of the windward islands, there’s nothing but ocean beyond that reef. There I met a man named Burt Kilbride, a living legend and the world’s oldest Scuba diver, known affectionately as the last Pirate of the Caribbean. He told me of his quest to find Drake’s treasure.

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Links:

Bert Kilbride: https://www.visitcaymanislands.com/en-us/isdhf/isdhf-bios/bert-kilbride

Bitter End Yacht Club: https://beyc.com/

Saba Rock: https://sabarock.com/