Neely Quinn
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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Neely Quinn
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastEpisodes
Neely Quinn
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
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Episodes of The TrainingBeta Podcast
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This is a repost of the interview Steven Dimmitt did with me on episode 214 of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In it, I talk about how mindset coaching massively improved my climbing and my life, why I got into coaching, and we do some coaching on
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he's discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the mos
Shaina Savoy is a 30-year-old climber who lives in Las Vegas who also happens to be a very good friend of mine AND TrainingBeta's social media manager. I've known her for years, and have watched her evolve into an amazingly strong 5.13+ climber
I sat down with current (and past) professional climbers Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angie Payne to talk about how becoming mothers in the past couple years has changed their lives as climbers. Emily Harrington is known for her hard
Kelly Birch is a 29-year-old climber living in Boulder, Colorado who sent her first V14 last fall. She has many, many double digit boulders under her belt.She is an incredible climber and has been really vocal on her Instagram about using
I talked with psychotherapist Tyler Stableford about some different therapy modalities that are super useful for rock climbers to help us feel more content and fulfilled in climbing (and in life). Tyler is a long-time climber out of Carbondale
I talked with psychotherapist, Sarah Brock Chavez about neuroplastic pain, which is pain that comes from a sort of misfiring in your brain because your thoughts and emotions cause you to feel unsafe when you experience the pain. I don’t want t
Coach Matt Pincus uses climbing drills in his coaching (and his own climbing) all the time. He also put them into every single training session in the Performance Training Programs he built for TrainingBeta. But what do you imagine when you th
In this short episode, I talk about the incredible sugar cravings I used to have that would lead to regular binges and how I stopped them. I talk about what this taught me as a nutritionist and how I've honed that knowledge into a way of eating
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes made by climbers who are trying to break into 5.11 climbing. 5.10 climbers make up the bulk of Alex’s clientele, so her experience with this group is vast. In this ep
Last month, I went on a climbing trip where I just let myself do whatever I wanted, whether it was toproping 5.11’s or taking big whips on 5.13a’s, onsighting runout 5.12’s or toproping 5.12+’s. I did what my heart told me it wanted to do and I
Are you preparing for a trip to Hueco Tanks? Whether that trip is coming up in a month or sometime in your future dreams, this episode will help you know what to train, how long in advance to train, and what other preparations you can make to
In this episode I do a full nutrition session with a climber who has been struggling with poor recovery from climbing and training. I go through his diet log, ask him a bunch of questions to help me understand his situation, and give him really
Are you planning a climbing trip sometime this winter? Next spring? Any time in the future? Are you wondering what to do to prepare for that trip, whether it’s a month-long European extravaganza or a 5-day trip to Wild Iris? Well, Matt Pincus
Even when we’re climbing outside a bunch on projects, for many people there’s still a lingering question about what we should be doing in the gym to stay strong, powerful, and have everything we need to send those projects.How much should you
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about her recent send of Homunculus 5.14a (8b+) in Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. I’m SO excited for her as this has been a 4+ year siege for her with lots of ups and downs. Alex went through 3 pr
I LOVE watching climbing competitions. We have regular watch parties with our friends, and I’ve always loved Alannah Yip’s commentating. She’s also an incredible athlete to watch – so powerful and smooth. When I saw her Instagram post recently
In this episode, French climber Delphine Chenevier talks about the injury that led her to train for climbing, which led her to her first 5.14a (8b+) at age 47 and her first 5.14b (8c) at age 48.I was scrolling through 8a.nu news headlines the
In this episode I do a full nutrition session with a climber who has been struggling with feeling fatigued most days, especially at the crag. Fatigue is something I see in a lot of my nutrition clients that is often improved really quickly wit
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about how we can increase our finger endurance without putting ourselves in a huge recovery hole from the session. Tyler uses a strain gauge (in this case a Tindeq Progressor) for this kind of workout (a
Performance Anxiety Coaching Session and Some Route Training AdviceThis episode is a little different than normal in that I put two separate topics together to make one episode. I talked with Coach Matt Pincus about the new Performance Route
I recently read the book Atomic Habits by James Clear and, while it’s a really good book and I gleaned some things from it, I also realized that my habits are (humbly) already pretty good. This has been by necessity because there were years of
I recently read the book Atomic Habits by James Clear and, while it’s a really good book and I gleaned some things from it, I also realized that my habits are (humbly) already pretty good. This has been by necessity because there were years of
In this second installment of the “Common Sense Training Series,” I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about finger training with their clients and themselves in the pursuit of gaining finger strength and
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if y
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