In today’s show Rusty shares the flashpoint in his career that defined this shaping. Taylor Knox reveals Rusty’s role in his interest in surfing and later in his wild success on the rail. And Jojo Roper recounts his history run from Peahi, to The Eddie, to Maverick’s and how none of it would have been possible with Rus... more
In today’s show Kolohe Andino chats about the weight of expectation, why satisfaction can threaten ambition, how having children highlights the absurdity of professional surf pursuits, his idea for a restructured Tour, and why groms will always be the fertile core of surfing’s soul. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choi... more
In today’s show, the 23 year old who just rode a potential record-breaker at Maverick's talks us through the wave itself, the prep, the media maelstrom that followed, the unique board that Stretch built for him, how 100’ surf is only accessible via a team of people, and why he didn’t celebrate the historic ride. Enjoy!... more
Today’s episode is hosted by Brad Gerlach with Occy as a guest! Recorded at Niyama Resort in the Maldives, Brad and Occy analyze Occy’s technique to provide basic truths about head and hand placement and body positioning to unlock your next level of surfing. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/a... more
In today’s show San Diego’s surfboard and surfwear icon Rusty joins us to explain how his MIT mathematician father’s missive to follow his passion led him to art school and then to surfboards, learning how to push past moments of self-doubt, the secret unlock to Occy’s ’84 Thruster, the perils of licensing deals, and w... more
In today’s show San Diego’s surfboard and surfwear icon Rusty joins us to explain how his MIT mathematician father’s missive to follow his passion led him to art school and then to surfboards, learning how to push past moments of self-doubt, the secret unlock to Occy’s ’84 Thruster, the perils of licensing deals, and w... more
In today’s show surfing’s foremost historian reveals the pro surfer who saved his life at age 12, the gift of finding 50 year old surf footage from his youth, the unsung heroes lost to surf history, how history is shaped by those who elect to share it, and why is more important than ever to cement archiving surf histor... more
In today’s episode Holly Beck recounts her rapid rise into professional surfing and disillusionment, becoming an inadvertent model, expatriate freedoms, the fallacy of reality TV, and the holistic healing inherent to surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Pipeline aficionado Liam McNamara joins us to discuss how growing up in a commune on welfare informed his approach to surfing on the North Shore, the single financial decision that salvaged his career earnings, how shepherding Hawaii’s youth rectifies past misdeeds, and why his last session at Pipe was nearly his last ... more
In today’s show we hear from Jersey board builder Brian Wynn about how he built a career on doing what no else wanted to do, the fastest way to expedite one’s learning curve, why staying small is recession safe, and how ice hockey staves off burn-out. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoice... more
In today’s show our current and 2x longboard champ joins us to discuss how achieving a life goal can dilute future ambition, why pro longboarders net negative $ on Tour, the WSL’s reason for not acknowledging her as their youngest ever world champ, the ongoing influence of Terry Martin, and how she co-founded a women s... more
In today’s show double-board certified M.D. Paul Saladino joins David and Brad Gerlach to discuss how to reverse chronic illness through diet, why plants are bad to eat, our culture’s obsession with optimizing performance, and how surfing has redirected his lifestyle choices. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choices. Vi... more
In today’s show, world-renown photographer Chris Burkard explains that earning access to opportunity taught him the value of saying “no”, how a surf trip to Iceland inspired him relocate his family, why three days of darkness helped him unbury his core truth, and why his best work is still created in the ocean. Enjoy!... more
In today’s episode Richie charts the rise and fall of Wave Tools, why shaping his own boards hindered his title hopes, how a radical lesson in humility transformed his worldview, why he never understood the concept of “soul” surfer until he quit surfing, his regrets attempting to raise a professional surf daughter, and... more
Polarizing professional surf icon of the 80s/90s, Richie Collins, reflects on the benefits and consequence of being raised by a local enforcer, learning to live up to the family reputation and then taking it too far, the inescapable dread of regret, why he doesn’t surf anymore, and the deep value of knowing one’s famil... more
Surf biz stalwart and magnate Eric Crane explains the virtue of starting at the bottom, reflects on the dangers of never saying “no”, give thanks for almost losing everything, attempts to integrate family life with blind professional ambition, and discovers why being a balanced human makes him a more competent CEO. Enj... more
Today Dick Metz details his friendship with Rabbit Kekai, explains how his real estate empire was built from one vacant lot in Aspen, why buying back the Hobie stores (four times) was more profitable than selling them, and how archiving surf history through surfboards has become his life’s greatest work. Enjoy!Learn m... more
Metz is back! Today he tells us about selling his surf shop to Gerry Lopez to launch the Hobie Cat, venturing into the surf wear biz where the female customer unlocks an empire, and he learns valuable lessons in prudence and how to time an exit. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
English professor/shaper Charles Mencel joins us to edify on the Jersey beach badge, help illuminate the Shore’s deep history beyond the stereotypes, herald their music culture’s influence on surfing, and chart the travails of scaling a local board building business while raising five daughters and educating America's ... more
In today’s show filmmaker Jason Baffa explains the unexpected perils of getting your dream job, the importance of finding your niche within a niche, how collaboration is a pathway to success, and why the future of surf films is a live viewing experience. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adcho... more
Quietly and immeasurably influencing the surf world, Jon Roseman's stewardship of Cloudbreak has been cosigned by Fijian tribal leaders and pro surfers alike. Today he shares stories from 30 years of swells, why his best surfing is still ahead of him, and how he hopes to convert his experiences and a newly earned MBA f... more
In today’s show Dave Nelson reflects on the gift that was skating while growing up in the epicenter of tech, how one early gift from mom would dictate his life’s passion, the magic of living on Reunion Island in the early 90s, and how surf photography led him from darkness and allowed him to service something far great... more
In today’s show Californian Mark Sausen explains how he landed on Kauai in 1970, why humility is a gateway to universal acceptance, the biggest concerns with the tech autocrat invasion on island, why it takes 20 years to get Hanalei dialed, and how to surf well into your 60s. Enjoy!Learn more about your ad choices. Vi... more
In today’s show Anastasia Ashley recounts lessons learned as a haole grom on the North Shore, winning a Pipe event at age 23, embracing surf’s sex appeal to build a business, turning down a six-figure paycheck from Playboy, and how early career choices she was scrutinized for have now become standard industry practice.... more
In today’s show Chris Christenson recounts the time Tiger Woods got him disqualified from a golf tournament, why Dick Brewer invested in him, how Clark Foam’s closure was the best thing that ever happened, and discusses going to war with a corporate behemoth and inadvertently becoming an environmental activist in the p... more