Episode Transcript
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domain. This
1:00
is ninety nine percent invisible. I'm
1:02
Roman Mars. Even
1:06
if you've never been to LA's Chinatown, you've
1:08
probably seen it. Although it doesn't get as much
1:10
attention as New York or San Francisco's
1:12
Chinatown, it is a regular shooting
1:14
location for TV and film. So
1:16
you may recognize it from movies like rush
1:18
hour or freaky Friday or, you
1:20
know, Chinatown.
1:23
The most recognizable feature of LA's
1:25
Chinatown is it's central plaza.
1:27
It's an outdoor pedestrian mall that's almost
1:30
overwhelmingly colorful. Producer
1:33
Vivintlay. Brightly painted
1:35
buildings are topped with sweeping pagoda
1:37
style roofs and then accented with
1:39
fluorescent neon lacing. For
1:41
decades, Chinatown's central plaza
1:43
was a thriving tourist area. But
1:45
by the late nineteen seventies, it had fallen
1:48
on hard times. The neighborhood's
1:50
neon lights still glowed over shops
1:52
and
1:52
restaurants, but there was no one there to
1:54
take it all in. Things had taken
1:57
up. Significant nose dive.
1:59
There really wasn't anyone on the street or
2:01
going anywhere
2:02
and, you know, downtown was
2:04
dead. It was this deserted
2:06
Chinatown in nineteen seventy eight that
2:08
captured the interest of Paul Greenstein.
2:11
Back then, Paul was a twenty something. He
2:13
liked music and hoped to run his own club as
2:15
a promoter. Instead, he did a lot
2:17
of odd jobs around the city for money. You
2:19
know, restoring juke boxes fixing
2:21
toys, designing ads for a local cafe.
2:24
Paul would sometimes spend nights wandering
2:26
around Los Angeles with a friend. And
2:29
one night he found himself in central plaza.
2:31
The streets of Chinatown were quiet as
2:33
always, but a sound
2:35
caught his attention.
2:38
We can hear this really wild party going
2:40
on. So
2:42
we kind of gravitated to where all the noises coming
2:44
from, and there's this place called Madden moms.
2:47
Madam Wong's was a restaurant right in Central
2:49
Plaza. If you enter through the famous
2:51
east gate, you'll see an ornate two
2:54
story building with a curved pagoda
2:56
style roof and an intricately detailed
2:58
wooden balustrade lining the
3:00
balcony. There obviously, you know, it was
3:02
packed. And we're looking at now. We're least nobody
3:04
here in Chinatown, but displaced packed. So
3:06
we go upstairs.
3:08
Colin and his friend went up to the second story
3:10
entrance of Madden Wong's expecting
3:12
to have to squeeze his way through the
3:14
door. But there's nobody there
3:16
who's recording. That's a recording of
3:19
a party.
3:23
According to Paul, the owners of the
3:26
restaurant had been blasting party ambiance
3:28
through speakers to give off the illusion that
3:30
it was packed with customers.
3:32
So we went, oh god, that's so
3:34
funny. What a rep? This
3:36
is Craig. We love
3:37
it, you know, because it was obviously a
3:39
really lame trick. And we thought
3:41
that was funny. Funny enough that
3:44
Paul kept coming back to Madden Wongs.
3:47
He would ride his motorcycle over to Central
3:49
Plaza to get lunch regularly and would
3:52
find himself having long conversations with
3:54
one of the owners of the
3:55
restaurant. A man named George
3:57
Wong. And I talked
3:59
to George and he told me stories whether they were
4:01
real or not. III never know. But he said, oh,
4:03
god. You know, I was with the flying tigers
4:06
in China and I grew up in San Francisco
4:08
and I had nineteen thirty seven Indian
4:10
just like yours, and I used to ride it up and down
4:12
the hills. And he just told me stories, and
4:14
I tell him stories, and I'd have a
4:16
beer, you know, and then I go back to work. Man
4:19
in Wong's was an island themed restaurant
4:21
and club. They served tropical drinks,
4:23
and at night, Polynesian bands and dancers
4:26
performed on a techie themed stage, decorated
4:28
with seashells and dried grass.
4:30
Like a lot of businesses in Chinatown, the restaurant
4:33
wasn't doing well. By nineteen seventy eight,
4:35
the techie craze that grip the nation had
4:37
officially burned
4:38
out, and Matamoros would be lucky
4:40
to get in a few dozen people during
4:42
the evenings. But Paul had an
4:44
idea. One that he hoped would put
4:46
asses in the seats and Paul
4:49
on the
4:49
map. Why
4:50
don't I start a quote in this restaurant
4:52
that's dead all the time? Paul
4:54
wanted to turn Matam Wang's into a hot
4:56
new music venue, a venue he would
4:58
book and promote.
5:02
He had all sorts of ideas for the club.
5:04
He imagined putting on rock ability shows
5:06
one night, then the next night at jazz band,
5:08
even Sattara music. So he
5:10
asked George if he'd be willing to let him book some
5:12
local musicians at Madam
5:14
Wang's. Basically, he said, let me talk to my
5:16
wife. She next time he came in, I said, talk to your wife
5:18
and he goes, yeah, she says, no. Oh, and why?
5:20
He
5:20
goes, I don't know if she just says no.
5:23
The eponymous madam Wong, George's
5:25
wife, Esther, passed away in two thousand
5:27
five, But from every account
5:29
that I've read or heard, she was a force
5:31
to be reckoned with. Esther was
5:34
born in nineteen seventeen in Shanghai,
5:36
the daughter of a wealthy automobile importer.
5:39
She was well educated and well traveled,
5:41
but in nineteen forty nine was forced to
5:43
flee China to escape the incoming communist
5:46
regime, losing her high end lifestyle.
5:49
She made her home in Los Angeles and worked
5:51
as a clerk for a shipping company for twenty
5:53
years before opening madam Wong's with her
5:55
husband George.
5:56
Esther Wong was not interested in working
5:58
with Paul. But he was insistent. So
6:01
I said, you know, what's your worst
6:02
day? She said Tuesday. I said, give me
6:04
Tuesdays. After some convincing,
6:07
Esther decided to let Paul experiment with
6:09
their slowest days and book some local bands.
6:12
What Esther probably wasn't anticipating though
6:14
was at this very time in LA. There
6:17
was a rising musical scene just
6:19
screaming for a new
6:20
venue. Punk. Well,
6:23
I think at the beginning, promoters felt
6:25
like punk is a new thing,
6:28
and there were just a handful places
6:30
that welcomed punk with
6:32
open doors in seventy seven. This is
6:35
Alice Bag. I am
6:37
an old school punk
6:39
rocker who started playing
6:41
in a punk band in nineteen seventy
6:43
seven.
6:44
That band she was playing in was
6:46
the trailblazing first wave punk
6:48
band, The Bags. In the late
6:50
seventies, punk had just begun to
6:52
take root in Los Angeles, And Alice
6:54
remembers a burgeoning scene where people
6:57
like her fit in. There were a lot
6:59
of bands that had
7:01
women queers, people covered. That
7:03
was very, very inclusive scene,
7:06
and there were a lot of really unique voices.
7:08
So I think when you
7:11
listen to LA
7:12
punk, it is maybe little bit courtier.
7:14
But the issue was that almost no one, not the biggest
7:17
arena or the smallest clubs, wanted
7:19
to host these local
7:20
bands. Because, well, you know, from
7:22
my personal experience, the bags got
7:25
a bad reputation for
7:26
our fans being too aggressive and
7:29
destroying things. Alice
7:32
isn't exaggerating about that reputation. Take
7:35
for example, in nineteen seventy eight, when
7:37
the bags played this very famous LA
7:39
rock club called the Trumanor.
7:41
It was later called the trashing of
7:43
the trouser because there was a
7:45
lot of craziness. Rather
7:49
than providing a dance floor, the trouser
7:52
put down tables and chairs, expecting
7:54
the audience to remain seated the
7:56
whole
7:56
night. And as soon as
7:58
the show started, things began to go immediately
8:01
around. If you had a puncture at one of
8:03
those places and you didn't move the tables
8:05
and create a dance floor,
8:07
WELL, Pumps WERE GOING TO DO IT FOR YOU.
8:09
Reporter:
8:10
SOON ENOUGH, THE AUDIENCE STARTED HURLING
8:12
THOSE TABLES AND CHAIRS ACROSS THE ROOM.
8:14
You know, the the furniture ended up in
8:16
a pile, actually, like tables
8:19
and chairs in a pile. And there are
8:21
there's actually a video footage I think where
8:24
you can see us playing on stage. You
8:26
can see, like, every now and then, the chair flying
8:28
across.
8:32
There's this photo that was taken after the chaos
8:34
had subsided. Wooden chairs
8:36
and table pieces are strewn into a frenzy
8:38
pile, as if the audience was trying
8:40
to barricade the place from a zombie apocalypse.
8:45
But then, of course, the bags never worked.
8:48
Were never allowed back at the trouser
8:50
door. And I think for a
8:51
while, punk bands in general were not
8:53
allowed at the trouser doors. So, yes,
8:56
unfortunately, these sort of things
8:58
closed doors for us. It
9:00
wasn't just the true but door banding punk
9:02
bands. It was most clubs.
9:05
So punks had to make do. They
9:07
try sliding in through the back door of alternative
9:10
unsuspecting venues. Some
9:12
bands, Wood Book shows in, abandoned
9:14
synagogues, or Ukrainian cultural
9:16
centers, or the performance hall of the benevolent
9:19
and protective order of the elves.
9:21
But
9:21
as soon as the establishment figured out what was
9:23
happening, they'd pull the plug or
9:25
call the cops. The plan for
9:27
Madden Wong's was to book all types of
9:29
music. Not just punk rock.
9:32
But by opening her club up to the scene,
9:34
Esther Wong was about to form an uneasy
9:37
alliance with pumps knocking
9:39
at her door.
9:41
Paul jumped in immediately and designed flyers
9:43
and posters and staple them to telephone
9:45
poles all over town.
9:47
After few months of planning, Paul kicked
9:49
off the week night shows in the fall of nineteen
9:51
seventy eight with a musician named Gary
9:53
Valentine. You know, in the beginning, it was
9:55
written in Matamoros. It was very exciting. I mean,
9:58
I I wish I I had kept
10:00
bottle with the adrenaline that I got every
10:02
night out of that place.
10:04
Matamoros. Pumps featured different types of music.
10:06
But the punks were the ones who really
10:08
turned up.
10:09
Yeah. When she when she started she was serving
10:11
dinner until nine minutes.
10:12
And so then all a sudden instead of having, like,
10:15
twenty people that were, like, three hundred people.
10:17
This is Anne Tsuma and Jeff Springer.
10:20
Anne was a prolific photographer of the LA
10:22
a punk scene and Jeff was a freelance journalist.
10:25
They were drawn in early and watched as Madam
10:27
Wang's crowds grew bigger and bigger.
10:29
They said Central Plaza was a good
10:31
vibe. There was super fun to go there.
10:33
You could talk really easily
10:35
and there's a big space out part
10:37
people could Strawly
10:39
in the plaza, and you would not disturb
10:42
neighbors. We
10:42
should hang out. But aside from the cool
10:45
vibe and convenient vocation, there
10:47
were intangible qualities that lure young
10:49
punks to
10:49
Chinatown. Well,
10:50
I certainly liked it better than Hollywood.
10:52
Yeah. I
10:53
mean,
10:53
it was much it felt safer.
10:56
It felt safer is
10:57
But it was still you had, like,
10:59
that element there to make feel a
11:01
little edgy. Chinatown
11:06
was safer than a lot of other punk hangouts
11:08
in LA. And sure, who's gonna
11:10
argue with easy parking. But let's
11:12
not miss words here. A big part
11:15
of the appeal for punks coming to Chinatown
11:17
was this quote, edgy aesthetic. And
11:20
Chinatown seemed edgy mainly because
11:23
it wasn't rich and it wasn't white.
11:25
Punks weren't the first outsiders to be
11:27
drawn to Chinatown, and that's because
11:30
it was designed to draw outsiders
11:32
in. I would feel that what was going
11:34
on in the pungsten is kind of similar to what
11:36
happened in Chinatown for decades before
11:38
I
11:38
had. This is William Gau, assistant
11:40
professor of ethnic studies at Sacramento
11:43
State University. He says that
11:45
LA's Chinatown is actually considered new
11:47
Chinatown, because the original neighborhood
11:49
was torn down in the nineteen thirties to make
11:51
way for union station. When
11:54
Chinese American business leaders rebuilt
11:56
the community, They purposefully designed
11:58
its central plaza with a quote unquote
12:00
exotic eastern aesthetic in
12:03
order to lure Anglo American tourists
12:05
to Chinatown.
12:06
What type of agency does a Chinese American
12:08
merchant have? But to find ways and
12:10
to take the perceived ethnic difference,
12:13
and to make it sellable. And so the Chinese American
12:15
merchants are trying to make
12:18
Chinese American difference palatable to
12:20
a larger white audience in a way that will empower
12:22
them. So in the late nineteen seventies,
12:25
decades after new Chinatown drew an outsider's
12:27
with its deliberate Shane Wasbury, Esther
12:29
and George Wong did something similar. They
12:32
capitalized on a new crowd by selling them
12:34
an experience they couldn't get anywhere
12:36
else. If you have Chinese American
12:38
businesses whose lifeblood are people outside
12:40
of the community, you know, the pungsten is just
12:43
gonna be another aspect of that. It's gonna be a part
12:45
of broader history of a type of symbiotic
12:47
relationship in which Chinese
12:49
American businesses are
12:51
catering to and sometimes profiting from
12:54
folks that are coming into the community and spending
12:56
money there. As with
12:58
the case of Paul Greenstein and Esther
13:00
Wong, this sticky symbiosis had
13:03
its tensions. Paul and Esther
13:05
had different ideas for the club, So
13:07
after just a few
13:08
months, Paul left Madam Wang's and
13:10
Esther was charting her club's destiny.
13:13
In order to keep bringing huge crowds to
13:15
her restaurant, Ester began working
13:17
with professional bookers.
13:19
People always thought she was like, very
13:22
tough. And, like, I definitely saw
13:25
her be tough, but, like, she wasn't
13:27
just tough. That wasn't her thing.
13:29
Like, otherwise, like, why am I at her house for
13:31
Chinese New Year's, you know.
13:33
This is Jonathan Daniel, one of Esther's
13:35
music bookers. Today, he's a co
13:37
founder of crushed music and works with artists
13:40
like Green Day Fallout Boy and Miley
13:42
Cyrus. But back then, he was
13:44
just a nineteen year old kid trying to learn
13:46
about the music industry when he met s
13:48
term long.
13:49
I mean, that was just I was so young
13:52
that I
13:54
don't think I fully appreciated
13:57
like where she came from. I just knew
13:59
it was different. Jonathan respected
14:02
Esther on professional level. And
14:04
on a personal level, he liked her.
14:06
Sometimes she would even take into the horse
14:08
racing track with her because mama
14:10
love the
14:11
ponies. She was like incredible
14:13
if betting on horses and that was sort
14:15
of myth that's how she had made the
14:17
money was horse
14:19
bedding, which I don't know if that's true, but
14:21
it's amazing story. And
14:23
although Esther had a reputation for having
14:25
a temper, Jonathan says she was easy
14:28
to work with as long as the shows were full.
14:30
She gave me a lot of room. Especially
14:33
for a kid. You
14:36
know, every once in a while, she would go up and
14:38
she would say, call Martha. Because
14:40
she loved the motels and she loved Martha Davis
14:42
or the plumb songs was another.
14:45
And those bands had been very successful
14:47
at the beginning. And so she would always be
14:49
like, call these bands. Within
14:51
a year of opening, Esther had turned Madam
14:53
Wang's into a prestige gig.
14:56
It went from being the place that you played because
14:58
there was nowhere else to go to being the
15:00
place that you had to
15:01
play. Well, here in downtown
15:03
Los Angeles, deep in the heart of Chinatown, Madam
15:06
Wongs. Now this is a club that's given birth
15:08
to many new rock
15:09
acts. In fact, some people even say it's the center
15:11
of new talent on the West Coast. Madam
15:13
Wong started booking not just local
15:16
unsigned
15:16
LAX, but big musicians from
15:19
all over the world.
15:20
She was hard, met him wrong, and and
15:22
she made that place
15:24
happen, and she made that scene
15:27
happen. Journalist, Jeff Spreier,
15:29
again. As a result, she had people
15:31
like the police playing there, and she
15:33
had people like the b fifty two's
15:36
would come into town. And they played there.
15:38
And that stage was tiny. It
15:40
was a tiny, tiny stage.
15:42
Yeah. They played there because she was
15:44
The place to play? Boingo
15:47
Boingo played Madden
15:48
wongs. The Go Go's played Madden wongs.
15:50
Even the Ramones. There's
15:52
actually a story that Esther pulled two members
15:55
of the Ramones off the stage to make
15:57
them clean up graffiti that they scrawled on
15:59
the bathroom walls.
16:01
Ester and George doubled down and opened
16:03
up a second, even larger location
16:05
in Santa Monica called Madam Wang's
16:07
West. Wongs were savvy
16:09
business owners who were strategic about
16:11
how they ran their clubs. Since
16:13
Madden Wongs made most of its money through the bar,
16:16
Jonathan said that George Wong would keep all
16:18
sorts of detailed notes on the types of audiences
16:20
that certain bands would bring
16:21
in. He would watch all the bands.
16:24
Because the place was super small.
16:26
And so he would write things like ice
16:29
water drinkers, meaning their crowd didn't
16:31
buy a liquor. No.
16:33
And they would write, no, no
16:34
draw. If they're wearing enough
16:37
people,
16:38
I do like the idea of, like, George
16:40
money balling it, like keeping tabs of Oh,
16:42
definitely. Yeah. It was a he was a
16:44
hundred percent money ball. Yes. Yeah.
16:46
He had a binder.
16:49
George had his money ball books, but Esther
16:51
was the figurehead of the clubs. She
16:53
took it upon herself to listen to the stacks
16:55
of tapes from interested bands and personally
16:57
chose who got to perform on her stage.
17:00
But at best, she tolerated the
17:02
stuff being played at Madden Wongs. In
17:04
nineteen seventy nine, the same year the
17:06
b fifty two's and the police were playing
17:08
on her stage, she told the LA
17:10
Times, quote, before I didn't
17:12
think I'd ever like rock music. Now
17:15
I can turn it on and it doesn't bother
17:17
me.
17:19
I wouldn't I think
17:21
she cared for the culture. I
17:24
think she really liked
17:26
when the club was crowded and people were having
17:29
a good time. Mhmm. I don't think
17:31
she's like said and listened to the
17:33
music. That wasn't her thing.
17:37
She may not have been into it for the music itself.
17:39
But there was something about the noisy
17:41
rock lifestyle that Esther couldn't resist.
17:44
She liked the energy and took a lot of
17:46
pride when a band would get signed out of
17:48
her club.
17:49
As Madam Wang's reputation grew, so
17:51
did Esther's. Here she is being interviewed
17:53
by the musician Bob Welch for a show
17:55
called Hollywood Heartbeat.
17:57
Behind the bar, we have the legendary madam
18:00
Wong, Esther Wong. Hi Esther. Hi
18:02
Bob. What do you what do you think about the the
18:05
this music? Do you like it?
18:07
You know? Well, it's different. It's
18:09
all together different than anything else.
18:12
Everybody had their different
18:13
music. And I like that the most.
18:16
You realize
18:17
do you realize that you're a legend becoming
18:19
a legend, already a legend in Los Angeles?
18:22
Well, I wouldn't say that.
18:26
Soon, Esther had a new nickname.
18:29
She was the godmother. They
18:31
called her the godmother As
18:33
a sixty two year old Chinese immigrant, Esther
18:36
was getting all sorts of attention as the unlikely
18:38
godmother of punk. And although it
18:40
made for a catchy nickname, there were lot
18:43
of people in the scene who resented that moniker.
18:45
Was she, like,
18:48
really hosting punk. I'd say no.
18:51
Alice Bag again. Despite what
18:53
the media had dubbed her, other punks
18:55
like Alice knew that there was a different story
18:57
there. I don't think she deserves
18:59
to be called anything that would
19:03
frame her in terms of supporting punk.
19:06
Maybe, you know, that could be
19:08
adjusted to new wave, but
19:10
not punk.
19:13
Around the time that Esther discovered rock
19:15
in the late nineteen seventies, punk
19:17
music was changing and a new
19:19
style was splintering out into its own
19:22
separate
19:22
genre. New wave.
19:25
New wave is a lot like punk if you added
19:27
ironic lyrics, mainstream appeal, and
19:29
a couple of synthesizers. Too
19:31
many punks. The distinction between
19:33
the two genres meant everything. But
19:36
to Ester Wang, these subtle musical
19:38
differences weren't enough for her to put up
19:40
with the rowdy punk crowd. So
19:42
as business began picking up, Esther
19:45
pivoted and focused on booking NewWave
19:47
over punk. The new waivers tended
19:49
to act a little more professionally and drawn
19:52
slightly tamer audiences.
19:54
My guess is Unko Wonko probably didn't
19:56
tag Esther's bathroom. I
19:58
am pretty sure that our first
20:00
show in Chinatown
20:02
was at Mad
20:03
Wongs, and it was also our
20:05
last show at Mad Wongs. Alice
20:09
says that the bags first show at Madam Wang's
20:11
ended a lot like the trashing of the troubadour.
20:14
Things got out of hand and a lot of furniture
20:16
got damaged. Esther got
20:18
tired of the sort of thing and began
20:21
straight up banning a lot of punk bands.
20:24
So Pung had
20:26
to find another venue and lucky
20:28
for
20:28
us, the Hong
20:30
Kong Cafe opened. After
20:40
the break, The Hong Kong Cafe opens,
20:43
and the Chinatown Punkwares begin.
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24:01
In nineteen seventy nine, less than a
24:03
year after Esther and George began booking
24:05
rock shows at Madden Wongs, A
24:07
different music promoter happened to find himself
24:10
in Chinatown. His name
24:12
was Kim Turner. Well, I
24:14
was looking for a place from the minute I got
24:16
here. Kim was fresh off the plane
24:18
from DC and already looking for a space
24:20
to run shows out of. One night, he
24:22
went to Madden Wongs in Chinatown, and he
24:24
thought that Central Plaza with its neon
24:26
lights and architecture should have more than
24:28
just one single rock club. It had
24:30
the potential to be an entire music scene.
24:33
So as he was walking out of Matamoros, he
24:35
got an
24:36
idea. I came down the stairs and I
24:38
looked across the way there. I saw
24:40
the Hong Kong restaurant, I go.
24:42
Wow. That would be a perfect place for a ban
24:44
for a night club. Kim saw that
24:46
literally steps away from Madam
24:48
Wang's there just happened to be another
24:51
struggling Chinese
24:52
restaurant, big enough to host the shows
24:54
he had in mind. It was called Hong
24:56
Kong Lowe.
24:57
So
24:57
I went over and I talked to introduced myself
25:00
to Bill Hong. We sat down and talked.
25:02
Bill Hong had been the owner of Hong Kong Lowe
25:04
for decades. And was a prominent and well liked
25:06
member of the Chinatown community. He
25:08
was the executive secretary of the Chinese
25:10
Chamber of Commerce where he helped new immigrants
25:12
settled in Chinatown in the early
25:14
seventies. He also helped organize
25:16
the annual Lunar New Year parade.
25:18
What was his personality like? I'm just
25:20
kinda curious. He
25:22
was very I don't know what it is. He
25:25
ran a good business. Well,
25:27
you saw it in one picture of
25:28
him. I didn't say anything. Right? Yeah. That that was
25:31
Good description of him. Kim was
25:33
referring to a photo of Bill that he'd sent
25:35
me before our interview. Bill's holding
25:37
up a lobster that he had just pulled out of
25:39
Hong Kong Lowe's live seafood tank.
25:42
He's wearing a bow tie and has this
25:44
huge playful grin across his round
25:46
face. He looks like a sweet happy
25:48
dad. No one I spoke with had a
25:50
single bad thing to say about him.
25:52
And luckily for Kim, Bill was open
25:54
to turning Hong Kong low into Chinatown's
25:57
second rock club. I said, well,
25:59
let me get back with you. I'll come back tomorrow. He
26:01
said, yeah. We'll we'll do this. Hong
26:04
Kong Lowe was a large two story building.
26:06
On the ground floor was the main dining
26:08
area, and on the second floor was a private
26:10
banquet room that Bill booked out for buffets
26:12
and special events. The banquet room
26:15
was mostly unused and their idea
26:17
was to convert that space into a new
26:19
club called the Hong Kong Cafe.
26:22
Kim brought on two other partners. A woman
26:24
named Susie Frank who died in twenty twenty
26:26
two and a man named Barry Seidel.
26:29
We opened that club not knowing that we
26:31
were gonna be a premier punk
26:34
club. We did not know that.
26:36
This is Barry Sidel. Like Esther
26:38
Wong, Barry did not originally set
26:40
out to be a champion for punk music. But
26:43
he and Kim had overheard the angry grumblings
26:45
of punk bands who had been booted out of Madden
26:47
Wongs and they saw an opportunity.
26:49
As soon as we opened, we realized that
26:51
we had an enemy next door that
26:54
was threatening all the bands So
26:56
then we started to become aware of,
27:00
oh, got so many punk bands that
27:02
were not being used. People
27:04
were afraid of them. And we figured,
27:06
what the hell?
27:08
We could really do
27:10
something with these bands if we can
27:12
get by with it. If we can handle it.
27:15
Barry and Kim built a stage from scratch
27:17
and published a press release for the official
27:19
June fifth, nineteen seventy nine
27:21
opening of the brand new Hong Kong.
27:23
And cafe. It advertised the
27:25
best in
27:26
rock, live seafood, and live
27:28
entertainment. And every choice that
27:30
Madam Wang's made the guys at the Hong
27:32
Kong purposely went the other direction.
27:35
Esther made madam Wang's twenty one and up,
27:37
so the Hong Kong was all ages. If
27:39
Madam Wang's was going to cast out the unruly
27:42
punk
27:42
bands, the Hong Kong would take the
27:44
men. Even if they were
27:46
trouble, The first night
27:49
that we were running a big punk show,
27:51
everybody said watch out for Black Randy.
27:55
I said, what's what's
27:56
that?
27:57
They were referring to Black Randy and the Metropon.
27:59
You know, I I'm new in LA here. You know?
28:02
They said, well, just watch out for Black Randy. He's
28:04
toilet breaker. I
28:06
said, watch a toilet breaker. That
28:07
one actually turned out to be pretty self explanatory.
28:10
So then I so over the toilets broken.
28:14
Water all over the place. So that
28:16
was one of the first lessons
28:18
that we
28:19
had. And if you're listening,
28:22
Randy, we're on to you.
28:27
The shows took a toll on the Hong
28:29
Kong Cafe, but Barry Kim
28:31
and Bill eventually worked out a deal that
28:33
any damage done to the club would be taken
28:36
out of the band's cut of the
28:37
night. Bill was kinda happy, go lucky
28:39
guy. You know, he was picking up bottles,
28:41
you know, in the plaza. He just you know, he
28:43
had a smile. He always had a little chuckle. He
28:46
said, hey. It's kinda like maybe a cost
28:48
of doing business.
28:49
This is Ken Chan. His family owns
28:51
Phoenix bakery, which is a business that's been in
28:53
Chinatown for over eighty years.
28:56
He says that in the beginning, both
28:58
Esther and Bill got some pushback from the local
29:00
community because of some
29:01
vandalism, but Esther and Bill
29:03
stuck up for the shows. There were some
29:05
vandalism, there was some trash, you know,
29:07
every night they, you know, bail would go out there
29:10
with a broom, and he starts
29:12
sweeping up stuff. Bill would
29:14
tell me, hey, you know, I gotta keep the place up
29:16
and
29:16
running. I gotta pay my rent. I gotta pay my staff.
29:18
The shows and audiences could get chaotic,
29:21
but it was all worth it to draw bigger crowds
29:24
into central plaza. Bigger crowds
29:26
meant more money spent at the bar and in
29:28
the restaurant, which went straight to
29:30
Bill. We were both helping each other out.
29:33
He was given us a place to do our
29:35
business, and he was doing
29:37
well with all the people, you know, coming in and
29:39
not only would they go down each each dinner
29:41
downstairs, but then they would come upstairs and
29:43
direct
29:44
to, you know, and watch advance. And
29:46
although it was mainly a business decision
29:48
for Bill, the Hong Kong Cafe ended
29:50
up becoming hugely important to
29:52
the Pungsten.
29:54
It gave a forum to people that
29:56
might have a difficult time finding
29:58
a place to to perform.
30:00
Here's Alice Bag again. She appreciated
30:03
that the Hong Kong was a place where artistic
30:05
expression could run rampant.
30:07
People like her had the freedom to get weird
30:09
and experimental on stage. I
30:12
just wanted to say that one of the most impactful
30:15
shows that I saw at the Hong Kong Cafe
30:18
was Joanna Went. Have you ever
30:20
heard of Joanna
30:20
Went? Here's Barry again. Here remembers
30:23
this show very well. Yeah.
30:25
Joanna came to me and she wanted
30:27
to play the Hong Kong. Well, she's a
30:29
performance artist and she does weird
30:31
stuff. So I said said, what
30:33
do you do? And as
30:36
far as I can remember word for word,
30:38
she said, well, first,
30:41
I covered the stage with a plastic sheet.
30:44
And and there's
30:46
a lot of blood. And it's
30:49
kinda
30:49
messy, but I clean up afterwards.
30:52
You can watch some of Joanna Went's work online,
30:54
and to be honest, it will probably
30:57
up little
30:58
bit. But
30:59
to her credit, she did clean up afterwards.
31:01
You know, that's something that made
31:04
the Hong Kong cafe really unique.
31:06
Like, that it would host a performance
31:08
artist that was known for, like,
31:12
being a little bit on control for
31:14
using stuff like that
31:16
we get on the
31:17
furniture, get on the floor, get on the customers,
31:19
and they weren't afraid of that. And
31:21
the blood soaked shows were blowing
31:23
up. Kids who were turned away at the
31:25
door were scaling the roof and breaking
31:28
in through the air conditioning ducts.
31:30
Kim Turner told me that one time a person
31:32
was so desperate to get into a show
31:35
that he fell through the vent and nearly impaled
31:37
himself on the drummer's high hat.
31:40
And it wasn't just punks. All sorts
31:42
of people heard the buzz around the Hong Kong cafe
31:44
and started showing up in Central Plaza.
31:47
John Belushi used to come in all the time.
31:49
And and also Donna Summer became
31:51
a friend of mine. She's very small. And
31:53
she loved the Hong Kong cafe and
31:56
she would come in and I'd say Donna, you
31:59
must wear this hat and go sit in that
32:01
corner because if they knew that was Donna's
32:04
summer, they would have ripped her
32:06
apart. Did
32:08
disco Queen, you know? Night
32:13
after night, punk bands kept the second floor
32:15
of Hong Kong lows packed. Maybe
32:17
even two
32:18
packed. The place wasn't that big.
32:21
I I think our the
32:23
legal crowd in there was only two hundred
32:25
and fifty. And we would put
32:27
maybe four hundred people in there. And
32:30
downstairs in the restaurant, I used
32:32
to get scared because you could look up at
32:34
the ceiling. And when there was,
32:36
like, four hundred people in there jumping
32:38
around and doing a wash pit and everything else
32:40
going on, you could see the ceiling just
32:43
kind of bouncing up and down.
32:45
It was kinda scary. We got busted
32:48
by the fire department many times for
32:49
overcrowding. Madam Wang
32:52
probably called them. One
32:55
person who was not a fan of the Hong
32:57
Kong's chaotic, punk loving vibe,
32:59
was Esther Wong.
33:01
She would be sitting because both
33:03
clubs were on the second level.
33:05
This is Kim Turner again, Berry's other
33:07
partner at the Hong Kong. And
33:09
you could see her behind
33:11
her bars looking, you know,
33:14
with her binoculars into our club, seeing what
33:16
was going on. In the
33:18
beginning, Esther was actually quoted in the
33:20
LA times welcoming the competition in
33:22
Chinatown, but that attitude quickly
33:24
changed.
33:26
She didn't talk very openly about why
33:28
she didn't like the Hong Kong Cafe, so
33:30
it was assumed that it was just sheer territorialism
33:33
on her
33:33
part. But it went deeper than that.
33:36
I think she she felt like there was a rivalry
33:38
and, like, the Hong Kong campaign's, like, said,
33:41
culture was disrespect fault to her.
33:44
As far as I know, Esther didn't have a problem
33:46
with Bill Hong, but she was not
33:48
a fan of Barry and Kim. A
33:50
naval started when Barry took out an ad in
33:52
the weekly promoting the opening of the Hong
33:54
Kong Cafe. Barry took
33:57
a swipe at Madden Wongs by writing You've
33:59
tried the first and
34:00
finest, now tried the biggest
34:02
and the best.
34:03
I thought it was very funny. She did not
34:05
like that stuff. At all.
34:07
It then snowballed when Esther's then promoter
34:10
instituted a three to four week cooling
34:12
period for bands that played the Hong Kong.
34:15
To them, it just made business sense that
34:17
they wouldn't want to book a band that had just
34:19
played the venue thirty yards away
34:21
the night before.
34:23
But most people interpreted this as a
34:25
blanket ban on any ban that played the
34:27
Hong Kong Cafe. This policy,
34:30
along with the fact that Esther stopped booking
34:32
punk bands, gave her a reputation for
34:34
being vindictive. It also drew
34:36
a line in the sand in central plaza. On
34:38
one side of the courtyard was Esther Wong in
34:41
her skinny tie wearing new weight
34:42
bands. And on the other, was
34:44
the Hong Kong and the Punks?
34:46
Yeah. I mean, they were, like, steps away
34:48
from each other, like, Cape Corner. I
34:51
am very, very close So
34:53
you can actually see, like, you
34:55
know, the new wave audience lined
34:57
up for a show at Matamoros
35:00
and, like, the punk rock audience lined up
35:02
at the Hong Kong Cafe. The
35:04
LA press got wind of this tension in
35:06
Chinatown and stoked the flames of
35:08
the feud. The local media
35:10
gave the whole clash an unfortunate
35:12
nickname. I
35:13
guess we're gonna get into the wanton wars
35:15
now. I might as well. Right? Yeah.
35:19
The Wantan Wars. It was
35:21
also dubbed the Chinatown Syndrome, and
35:23
then thank God later just referred to as the Chinatown
35:25
Punk Wars.
35:27
Barry openly admits that the war between
35:29
the Hong Kong and Madam Wang's was gend
35:31
up by the media. The tall tale
35:34
of these two warring restaurants was media
35:36
gold. But the press also recast
35:38
the godmother a punk into a new role because
35:40
like every good
35:41
story, the Chinatown punk wars
35:43
had to have good guys and bad guys.
35:46
And the villain was an obvious choice.
35:50
So when the press would
35:52
hear something that she would say or complain
35:54
about, which was a lot of things, I guess.
35:57
They would come running in. They would
35:59
take her story. Then they'd come to me.
36:01
And I, of course, would the nice guy from
36:04
New York that everybody loved and
36:06
anybody can play the Hong Kong, you know.
36:09
He says that he remembered journalists telling
36:11
him that when they came to do stories about
36:13
the Hong Kong at the time, they would photograph
36:15
him in flattering ways. They'd
36:17
stage him with flowers and potted plants
36:19
to make him look endearing like a harmless
36:22
woodland
36:22
creature. But on the flip side with
36:24
Esther They would shoot her
36:27
from the ground up. They told
36:29
me that that's what they would do and
36:31
because it made her look like
36:33
evil. The Chinatown Punk
36:35
Wars generated a lot of attention for the
36:37
Hong Kong Cafe. And Barry says,
36:39
at
36:40
times, he even took advantage of this
36:42
dynamic. Whenever Madam Wang
36:44
was not complaining, it was
36:46
not good for business. So we
36:48
would do something to make
36:50
her complain, and then we would just I didn't
36:52
know. I didn't do it. I don't know what she's
36:54
talking about. You
36:55
know? The most infamous example
36:57
of this was an
36:58
elaborate Frank called the Trojan tape.
37:00
The story involved a musician named Dwight
37:03
Twilley who was releasing a new album.
37:05
At the time, clubs like Madame Wongs
37:07
had sound guys who played cassettes over
37:09
the speakers in between musical acts, so
37:11
the audience would have something to listen to. And
37:13
with White Twilio's new album coming out that week,
37:16
Barry got an idea.
37:20
What we did is I got my friend Kenny
37:22
who's who does a little disc jockey kind of
37:24
thing as a joke all the time. So I said, come
37:26
on, Kenny. Listen. We're gonna get the Dwight
37:29
twolly tape and very carefully
37:32
open the salafane, open
37:35
the tape, and then you go to
37:37
like the second
37:38
cut. A few minutes into the cassette,
37:41
Barry and his friend recorded a secret message,
37:44
resealed the tape, and then sent it to Esther
37:46
along with a forged note from Twilio.
37:49
Sure enough, thinking that it was a promotional gift.
37:51
Esther's soundperson played the cassette in
37:53
the club that
37:54
night, and halfway through track two,
37:56
the music cut out and a voice said,
37:58
Come on over to the Hong Kong. It's the best place
38:00
in China down just couple of hops and jumps
38:03
away from you, from where you are, you know,
38:05
whatever. Anyway, I I had
38:07
lot of fun with that. So did so
38:09
did the
38:09
press. They liked it. But Esther
38:12
Wong did not. According to witnesses
38:14
that night, Ester was fuming and
38:16
lost it in front of the entire club.
38:19
Berry had lots of stories like
38:21
the Trojan tape. As you could tell,
38:23
he had a lot of fun with the Chinatown
38:25
Punkwares. Unlike Esther,
38:28
he always came out on the other side unscathed.
38:31
Madam Wang was was the
38:33
nasty club owner, and Barry
38:36
Seidell and Kim. We
38:38
were the nice guys from the east coast that
38:40
didn't wanna hurt anybody. We just
38:43
wanted to be good guys, you know. And
38:45
that's the way it played. Some
38:48
of the things we did to
38:50
her behind
38:53
the scenes
38:54
to make her keep going because she was serious.
38:57
We knew it was funny. She did not.
39:00
It wasn't funny to Esther because she and
39:02
Barry were very different people
39:04
with very different stakes. Ester
39:06
wasn't some young white dude who was in it for
39:08
a good time. She was a sixty two year
39:10
old immigrant entrepreneur who was constantly
39:13
being criticized for the way she ran her business.
39:15
In an article from nineteen seventy nine,
39:18
Esther said of Barry and Kim, quote,
39:20
they can go to hell. They're the lowest of
39:22
the low. I don't want them here.
39:24
I don't care what they say. They're liars.
39:27
I hate them. If
39:29
you just went off the context of that article, She
39:32
sounded unhinged. But
39:34
this was a few months after the Trojan tape incident,
39:36
and after hearing some of the things Barry put
39:38
her through, I get why she seemed so
39:40
angry. This was her restaurant and
39:42
her livelihood. Her
39:45
frustration was justified, but in press
39:47
and in the wider music scene, she started
39:49
to earn a very specific kind of
39:51
reputation. Yeah. I
39:52
think it was a stereotype like dragon lady,
39:55
they used to call her.
39:56
Jonathan Daniel, madam Wang's booker
39:58
again. People didn't realize
40:00
how hard it was to
40:02
be a woman in a
40:04
let alone, like, not a white woman,
40:06
doing that, like, it's insane that
40:09
she did that and pulled it up, but people didn't
40:11
realize that. All the things that were her strengths
40:13
became like the things that people with
40:16
pick on his stereotype.
40:18
Because she had the audacity to make her own
40:20
business decisions and stand up for herself,
40:23
Ester went from being called the godmother
40:25
of punk to the dragon
40:27
lady. I
40:28
repeated that without really
40:30
thinking about what it meant. Ellis
40:32
Bag again. And now I I realized
40:35
that that is a racist
40:37
churn, so I wanna apologize
40:39
if you know, I I would
40:41
apologize for my ignorance for
40:44
for using a a term like that.
40:46
I I think it's easy to pick
40:49
on people who
40:51
you might see as like having less
40:53
power than than other people. So
40:56
if this was a club on
40:58
the west side with and
41:01
and it was run by an affluent white
41:03
man. You might just think that's
41:05
a business decision.
41:08
Punk Music in Chinatown burned bright,
41:11
but it burned fast. Within
41:13
a few years, the genre had evolved, and
41:15
by nineteen eighty one, bands like the
41:18
bags, the alley cats, and the
41:19
dills, who up to find the sound of first
41:21
wave LA punk had drifted out
41:23
of the scene. Hank wasn't dying,
41:26
but it was changing. The
41:28
music was being overtaken by hardcore
41:31
bands and audiences. It was
41:33
faster, harder, more aggressive,
41:36
intended to bring in a very different
41:38
crowd.
41:39
Yeah. I think we started seeing, like, a
41:41
a skin head ethos and
41:43
also, like, a white
41:45
male jocks. Getting into
41:48
the slant pit and kind of
41:50
like taking it to a place where it wasn't
41:52
fun or the women that used to
41:54
be at the front of the stage suddenly
41:57
felt like uncomfortable being
42:00
there because they would get, you know,
42:02
they were they were gonna get hurt.
42:09
The party was over for the Hong Kong Cafe
42:11
as well. Despite its popularity,
42:13
they closed down shop in nineteen eighty
42:15
one, after just a year and a half.
42:19
There
42:19
wasn't
42:19
much money at all. And I
42:23
just got to a point Kim actually
42:25
said to me, he said I'd like to close after
42:27
New Year's if that's
42:28
okay. I said it's okay with me.
42:30
The Hong Kong Cafe was the last
42:32
time either Barry or Kim worked in the
42:34
music industry in any meaningful
42:36
way.
42:38
Esther stuck it out with madam Wang's longer
42:40
and the party raged on for a few more
42:42
years. Her clubs managed to survive
42:44
punk and the introduction of MTV
42:46
in the early nineteen
42:47
eighties. But after a while, A hassle
42:50
just wasn't worth it anymore.
42:52
The improbable alliance that Esther formed
42:54
with her rock seeking customers in Chinatown
42:56
had come apart. In nineteen
42:58
eighty six, she told the LA Times
43:00
quote, the kids that come here
43:02
now, they me crazy. They
43:05
come here and they act like spoiled brats. Some
43:07
of them plugged up my toilets, and one band
43:09
set fire to some paper towels and set up
43:11
our sprinkler
43:12
system, flooding the whole basement. It's
43:14
got me pretty discouraged.
43:16
After that fire in nineteen eighty six, Esther
43:18
announced that she was closing Madame Wong's
43:20
East in Chinatown. It's not clear
43:23
if she regretted the experience. But
43:25
when she was asked what she would miss most,
43:27
she concluded in her very straightforward
43:29
way. I'll miss the bands I liked.
43:32
But I don't think I'll miss anything else,
43:34
not anymore. In
43:37
nineteen ninety one, After featuring
43:39
bands like REM, Guns and Roses,
43:42
and the red hot chili peppers. Madam
43:44
Wang's West closed its stores as well.
43:47
By this time, Esther was well into
43:49
her
43:49
seventies, and the music landscape
43:51
was a completely different place. Ester
43:55
Wong died from emphysema in two thousand
43:57
five at the age of eighty eight. Even
44:00
though her legacy was disputed over
44:02
the
44:02
years, the LA Times uulogized
44:04
her as the godmother of punk.
44:07
You
44:07
know, handed to them in man and woman, you know,
44:09
they thought of something needed. They brought another crowd
44:11
in. This is Ken Chan from
44:13
Phoenix bakery again. Ken
44:16
gets why the punk thing fascinated so many
44:18
people, but he also kind of casually
44:20
waves off this moment in the neighborhood's history.
44:23
He's seen these fads come and go over the
44:25
years. I think the punk rock, you
44:27
know, It was an era. It
44:29
was a time, but it brought people in the Chinatown.
44:32
You know, I think they maybe saw something
44:34
on Chinese agriculture for maybe they saw
44:36
some nicknames, but they got little of something in their
44:38
memory bank. Chinatown may have been,
44:40
you know, deserted may have been
44:42
closed, but You know, we had good
44:44
time. These
44:48
two rock clubs meant so much
44:50
to people in the punk scene. But to
44:52
someone like Ken, they're just a couple of
44:54
stops on a walking tour of Central Plaza.
44:57
These days, they're just too many
44:59
bigger things to worry about. The
45:01
neighborhood moved on, and after
45:03
the punks left, the art galleries moved
45:05
in, and then the hipster restaurants. And
45:07
then the developers. Punk
45:10
ended up just being a phase that, like
45:13
so many people, Chinatown
45:15
eventually grew out of.
45:22
1234.
45:32
Ninety nine percent invisible was produced this
45:34
week by Vivien Lane. Edited by Kelly
45:36
Prime, original music by Swan Rial
45:38
with Mia Byrne on guitar. Sound mix
45:40
by Martin Gonzalez. Back checking
45:42
by Graham Heisha. Delaney Hall is our
45:45
senior your editor, Kurt Kohl's Day is our
45:47
digital director. The rest of the team includes
45:49
Chris Barube, Emmett Fitzgerald, Christopher
45:52
Johnson, Jason Dleyonne, Lascher
45:54
Mendon, Jay up multinata Medina,
45:56
Joe Rosenberg, Sofia Klotzka, and
45:59
me, Romeo, Mars. The ninety nine percent
46:01
invisible logo was created by Stefan Lawrence.
46:03
Special thanks this week to Jan Lin and Pamela
46:06
Goodchild, Chip Kinman and Ron Louie
46:08
whose interviewers did not make it into the piece. But
46:10
were super helpful to the story. And
46:12
an extra special thanks to Lauren Smith,
46:14
the producer of Hollywood Harvey. Not only
46:17
did he allow us to use that rare interview
46:19
audio, investor Wong, he shipped VIV,
46:21
the DVD from across the country,
46:23
above and beyond. Ninety nine and Invisible
46:25
is part of the Stitcher and SiriusXM podcast
46:28
family. Now headquartered six blocks north
46:30
in the Pandora building. And beautiful.
46:33
Up ten. Oakland, California.
46:35
You can find the show and join discussions about the show
46:37
on Facebook. You can tweet me at roman Mars
46:40
and the show at nine nine pm I board. We're on
46:42
Instagram, Reddit, and TikTok two.
46:44
You can find links to other stitcher shows I love
46:46
as well as every past episode of ninety
46:48
9PI at 99PI
46:51
dot org.
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