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O S on the show
1:01
where we help you save
1:03
dinner or whatever you're cooking.
1:05
I'm Chris Morocco food director
1:07
of Bon Teeth and Epicurious
1:09
and today I am joined
1:11
by Damn Pacman. You might
1:13
recognize dans voice and iconic
1:15
laugh for them from his
1:17
work posting the Sport for
1:19
podcast. Bore you might know him
1:21
from. The pasta shape he developed casket
1:23
tell me which was one of
1:25
Time Magazine's best inventions of Twenty
1:27
Twenty One later in the showed
1:29
down and I will answer some
1:32
listener questions but first I wanted
1:34
to talk. Pasta. You
1:37
know, most the time I kind of come
1:39
in here. I just wing it you
1:41
know? But with you I was like oh
1:43
I need to do some research. I gotta
1:46
get the lay of the land of very
1:48
honored yeah I I ate casket tally. Great.
1:51
I hadn't done before like I'd seen
1:53
it right? but I don't know. It
1:55
wasn't necessarily stocked everywhere that I my
1:57
by pasta but the other day it.
2:00
The in a local market in Bantam,
2:02
Connecticut think it was Price just under
2:04
five dollars. guy. I had just listen
2:06
to most of Mission Impossible and loved
2:08
the background on it. You know just
2:10
how much effort it took for you
2:13
to bring that into the world and
2:15
I thought it was really good. Thank
2:17
you. Yes, I mean legit. Yeah, I
2:19
mean there were so many ups and
2:21
as the process of making it and
2:24
a little the initial impulse was really
2:26
more like I want to sell an
2:28
epic story on the sport for podcasts.
2:30
And there was like what have I meant
2:33
of food ever say to my producer Emmett
2:35
certain points we just what needed to go
2:37
read either really, whether really poorly and either
2:39
one of those a make for a good
2:41
story of a synthesis. The fact that it
2:43
and of going really well with sort of
2:46
some combination of of grit and luck I
2:48
think Now and it and it really Honestly
2:50
for everyone out there, it's really fun. Listen,
2:52
because it turns out that inventing your own
2:54
past the same isn't As does it sound
2:57
easy? I don't know. Will Spoiler alert, It's
2:59
not easy. Best. And it's good. I mean
3:01
no less an authority than my eleven year
3:03
old son said. it was the best pasta
3:05
he had ever had. Wow. You know,
3:07
I don't know that he was speaking hyperbolically
3:10
like I think he might have been on
3:12
to something. From the standpoint of Key, the
3:14
kid who prefers as pasta sauce with butter
3:16
and salt and I think this Fellini pasta
3:19
tastes there is like the almost exaggerated quality
3:21
to the just like the flavor of the
3:23
pasta itself. Like that's slightly nutty, earthy undertone
3:25
that even if you are eating it's us
3:27
with butter and salt, you're getting a lot
3:30
out of it. and certainly from a textual
3:32
standpoint. to ask a tally is not like
3:34
any other pasta. I'm a huge texture leader.
3:36
he knows. Maybe some as me and com
3:38
and such I wanted to me like a lot
3:41
of pasta shapes of kind of a dull texture
3:43
that a sliver boring. Five, These three metrics that
3:45
I used to judge all pasta seeps through their
3:47
talk about in the series on fork ability was
3:49
how's our fourth sauce ability, how others the sauce
3:51
adhere to it and truth think ability which is
3:54
how satisfying as a singer teeth into it. And
3:56
I think a lot of positives, maybe one or
3:58
two at of those three. very. You know
4:00
all three and I wanted it now three and
4:02
cast as I get these. ruffle that fella good
4:05
lemme know. position of ruffles Yeah there's kind of
4:07
fun and playful in her mouth. they're different type
4:09
of texture leader even words. butter and salt is
4:11
just like is suey and there's different thicknesses and
4:13
like it's is. this is the luck part Chris
4:16
which is the like there are different thicknesses or
4:18
and into the same and that could very easily
4:20
go off the rails and you could have a
4:22
wagon wheels have situation for the save. Never cooked
4:25
even dogs but the fact that the difference in
4:27
sickness is is just subtle enough to be preset
4:29
will without cooking. Unevenly is incredible and I can't
4:31
take any credit for that. That was just
4:33
a thousand. Good luck with that, that that
4:35
we all need. a little bit of that
4:37
sometimes will. Now you're doubling down in the
4:39
past the space and you're coming out with
4:41
a book. Anything's possible. Yup, Tell me more.
4:44
So. Yeah, this was in some ways this
4:46
is sorta like this sequel to Casket Tell You
4:48
where are we gonna have a multi part series
4:51
on the Sparkle podcast about the behind the scenes
4:53
story of the making this cookbook that also features
4:55
my wife and kids expressing a lot of doubts
4:57
about the merits of the project. for yeah it's
4:59
own Casket Tell he came out it was incredibly
5:02
went viral that I was getting all this testing
5:04
was very exciting gratifying of people were sending me
5:06
pictures of what they're making with it which I'm
5:08
sure for you said the you experience for many
5:10
years but I'm not a chef, I'm not a
5:13
recipe developer so I had never like. Made
5:15
any food thing that a lot of people
5:17
all over the country where all eating and
5:19
message me about. It's very exciting and also
5:21
kind of gratify and you must select are
5:23
being invited to have one's home for dinner
5:26
of it's It's sort of surprisingly intimate yeah
5:28
know that all people are cooking your food
5:30
in their homes so it was really special
5:32
but there was one problem which was that
5:34
with overwhelming majority of the pitchers who are
5:37
said the me were task as Hollywood tomato
5:39
sauce, meat sauce mack and sees a few
5:41
party animals made pesto or I like that
5:43
was nine know. Either only five percent over
5:45
a I throw in touch with a bang.
5:47
Carbonara and I were almost all of upset
5:50
and it just made me feel little sad.
5:52
A And it also has made me realize
5:54
that despite all the different ways you can
5:56
eat pasta, I think that for a lot
5:58
of Americans, they're still. And from
6:00
a pretty limited palette. So I set out
6:02
to make a cookbook. The woods show people
6:04
that there's so many more things they can
6:07
answer. Be on pasta. There's no recipe in
6:09
this cookbook. from our analysis. Morasses very good,
6:11
but the world doesn't need another recipe for
6:13
it. That's there's no recipe for it to
6:15
bubble in a is or lasagna or standard
6:17
issue country A happy. I just feel like
6:19
I love all those things a bit. Again,
6:21
I don't have anything to add to that
6:24
discussions so I most people don't respect that.
6:26
You know impulse you know to me and
6:28
I think like everybody's often tempted said. Nonetheless,
6:30
Sort of develop into a very crowded space and
6:32
to put their individual spin on it. so I
6:34
I I was really struck by that when I
6:37
saw some of the concept I breezy that I
6:39
me I guess as kind of my personality for
6:41
better or worse I'm sort of like alerted to
6:43
doom and or everyone else is doing nothing. But
6:45
anyway point is yes I was sort of like
6:48
willfully stubborn in this cookbook. I have to say
6:50
though, it's interesting that you don't describe yourself as
6:52
a recipe developer and maybe you'd see yourself differently
6:54
now that you've under taken the you know book
6:56
which is a a a huge left when it
6:58
comes from a recipe developing standpoint. When I
7:01
saw some of the the concepts,
7:03
I thought they were very much
7:05
in line with how like a
7:07
modern, forward thinking recipe developer would
7:09
tackle pasta. You know and I
7:12
if I call out some examples
7:14
here: Cells with me So butter
7:16
and stallions party with happy with
7:18
silly crisp and optional Sichuan peppercorns.
7:20
There you go, Lard his casket.
7:22
Tally Sex? you can. Cells. And
7:25
I think we engage in that work
7:27
a lot as you know a food
7:29
brand as recipe developers taking something that's
7:31
familiar but giving it a spin so
7:33
people can can understand what's happening in
7:36
these dishes implicitly feast on These descriptions
7:38
are clearly you are are your hijacking
7:40
the flavor profiles a little bit right?
7:42
like your employing ingredients that might not
7:44
normally fit neatly within that contact them
7:47
in of these dishes might have originally
7:49
come from for sure and I guess
7:51
my brain is very analytical and so
7:53
when I look at. A food. Even though
7:55
I'm not a trained chef, I tend to kind of like.
7:58
Break. It down into his component parts was. The
8:00
What You Do also. So for instance, I didn't
8:02
want have a recipe for Bolland A's and my
8:04
cookbook, but there are a lot of incredible this
8:06
is all over the world that involve seasons ground
8:08
meat, right? So to me any one of those
8:10
is this a prime candidate for a mashup of
8:13
Bowen A, so he did a key mobilize within
8:15
his yeah, so I think it helps that I
8:17
look a flu that way. but I also need
8:19
to shut out the recipe developers that I work
8:21
with a my cookbook and I because I'm don't
8:23
have that kind of experience. I made a point
8:25
of really going on hand as an all star
8:28
team of folks. So unnerving. Asa Loopy. so. Sarah
8:30
from head to tail and and suggests see the
8:32
so talented she developed a bunch. the recipes seems
8:34
park So and Irene you who do a lot
8:36
of green American own cooking so they did a
8:38
lot of the Korean saw this is some of
8:40
the same for the whole big Red Chili Chris
8:42
and is essentially sort of bed and my cookbook
8:44
I work with same that and Katie Laird who
8:46
we refer to a super known as Your Face
8:48
and Martha's Vineyard. she lives in Cook in Italy
8:50
to see sort of our connection to Italian roots
8:52
She lives in Puja it is and with me
8:54
with a few through obscure pasta dishes that I
8:56
hadn't heard of before that we write him of
8:58
book I couldn't have done it without. Them and
9:00
I made a point is infinite universe in cook
9:02
books which is that I credited the recipe develop
9:04
Brawny recipe because I just felt their work with
9:06
so integral and they were really collaborators. There were
9:09
some recipes that I was ok here's an idea
9:11
and that them rows over there are some of
9:13
that they were person to meet and so am
9:15
I wanted makes a They were getting a lot
9:17
of credit because they all the way to the
9:19
book. The next level is there any pasta dish
9:21
that you just categorically don't like. Who.
9:25
Am. I don't like angel hair as a
9:27
shape. that's fair. So. If
9:29
we're gonna put any passes is an easel.
9:31
Hamilton like bow ties and wagon Wheels know.
9:34
The. Seeley know those are bad seeps.
9:36
I don't love primavera. Fairness.
9:38
To time I sort of feel like if
9:40
it was marketed as a pasta salad I
9:43
think that I wouldn't go that as a
9:45
cold noodle. There some gas or server room
9:47
temperature to barbecue with some nice your summer
9:49
squash I can see that. but like as
9:51
an entree I still think the vegetables are
9:53
too big in relation to the pasta. The
9:55
size is don't work for me some yeah
9:57
yeah and for saying haven't thought about that,
9:59
this. Wow, I bet that you have
10:01
one. I know I don't want to
10:04
tread carefully because I know you just
10:06
entered the space with ah we'd alternative
10:08
pasta. I have a hard time with
10:11
pastas made from things other than wheat.
10:13
I think like they're cyst, almost like
10:15
the space of like functional pasta pasta
10:17
plus protein. Whether it's sick p or
10:20
lentil I don't know I anything other
10:22
than kind of whole wheat or maybe
10:24
spells I started this be like this
10:26
is doing something different from the I'd
10:29
rather have like. That the city's an
10:31
pasta together right? and maybe it's eighty percent
10:33
seek peace but I get some pasta that
10:35
just does what I want pasta to do.
10:38
but I don't know. but if my kids
10:40
eat it would I make them in a
10:42
bonds a Mac and sees? yeah I probably
10:45
would write you know in my wife is
10:47
gluten free anyway so half the time I'm
10:49
like I have to make unsourced past the
10:51
for one kid sauce pastor for the other
10:54
kid a making brown rice jovial positive for
10:56
my wife anyway road I don't even know
10:58
what to eat any marisa. It's not about
11:00
me reflect that the you know and that's where
11:03
I am, right, right? I as a weed there's
11:05
a bomb. Servers and Caskets Hollywood did a whole
11:07
episode as Purple about Yeah of the science of
11:09
gluten free pasta and even the the sciences we
11:12
spoke to in Italy where a lot of the
11:14
best gluten free boss has been made even See,
11:16
So this is a look. It's come a long
11:18
way as a lot better than it was five
11:21
years ago. But no one's going to tell you
11:23
that they're interchangeable like serve you can eat regular
11:25
pasta and universities. The difference for serve? Yeah, let
11:27
me through you curve ball and okay. I'm ready.
11:30
You're ready. Okay, and so. I. Had
11:32
this idea like years ago and
11:34
you having undertaken to the extreme
11:36
work of bringing a new path
11:38
to seep into the world my
11:40
idea isn't so much for a
11:42
seep this it only worked for
11:45
like wide a tubular pasta. imagine
11:47
ridges on both sides meaning like
11:49
ridges inside the pasta as well
11:51
as outside where you have decent
11:53
assurance of like sauce penetration of
11:55
like the inside of the pasta
11:57
you notice because it would be.
12:00
A wide tube Mathematica arm you know
12:02
Parker? yeah Rigatoni at the very least.
12:04
Rematch and you're doing bridges inside and
12:06
out. I think that's a really good
12:08
idea and I'm serious. look that be
12:10
sucked Have no one's done that. but
12:12
it makes a lot of sense because
12:14
it is ever increasing surface area. Yeah
12:16
you're going to increase the sauce ability
12:18
or making more tactile gonna hold things
12:20
better. So by increasing the surface area
12:22
inside the to be more sauce should
12:24
stay inside their said and it's a
12:26
wide sued so you're gonna you know
12:28
things are going up flow through it
12:30
as well as around it. Anyway generally
12:32
speaking I like sector of yeah not
12:34
bad and I like the you're you're
12:36
talking with the big to that rigatoni
12:38
measure on a gay pottery as I
12:41
don't love the medium sized to spend
12:43
a penny know they're fine right wing.
12:45
Media problem with those tubes is that
12:47
they are not wide enough to really
12:49
flat and into two distinct layers be
12:51
incredibly satisfying like a rigatoni, but they're
12:53
not narrow enough to spring back against
12:55
bite force like a bucatini. they're just
12:57
bringing enough to sprint off your fourth.
12:59
Yep, know there's a certain rigidity to
13:01
their structure that kind of defies easy
13:03
collapse and anyway will. Okay and I'm
13:05
heartened that you don't think it's a
13:07
terrible idea. I just got a lot
13:09
of potential to it. So.
13:14
Mr. Tusk a tele himself things
13:17
my pasta as potential fellini did
13:19
set. Go for real love sec
13:21
Ruth to tell the truth so
13:23
help me up I'm waiting for
13:26
your call. We're
13:28
going to take a quick break a sick around
13:30
here down and I tackle some a good listener
13:32
quest. And.
13:44
Center and that from and creator and
13:46
mastermind behind Smitten Cousin and the author.
13:49
Three hundred bucks and I'm Kenji Lopez
13:51
Also, you might know me from series
13:53
of move up and the was purple
13:55
professional hung up. Which means that we
13:57
create such recipes, assessing over them and.
14:00
They're just right and I'm our new
14:02
podcast. A Recipe with hands yentob. We'll
14:04
save our techniques and ingredients to that
14:06
You can learn everything you need to
14:09
create your own perfect recipe from Brady
14:11
as healthy as from Prs. It's the
14:13
recipe makes sense. Yeah, and that now
14:16
on your favorite podcast platform. Of
14:28
them were back. So
14:31
it's it's okay with you. I'm gonna have
14:33
it to some listener questions or a bus
14:35
do and just jump and I'm curious to
14:38
hear your thoughts. So. The
14:40
first one came as a voice memo
14:42
from listener Matthew and I'm gonna have
14:44
missed Cel Play that for us. As
14:48
it on our money Missouri Matthew the
14:50
guys are charging a dog armed with
14:52
United States Army here. I'm really curious
14:55
over my friend. just what about how
14:57
I got a pasta dish I could
14:59
make thing I grew up by a
15:01
lot of fake. However, I just. Ever
15:04
done. Much. Of a pop. I
15:06
don't know much about it. Some. Wanted
15:08
to cook for the are often so
15:10
at that some secured the like potatoes
15:12
for. Good. Not a beginner
15:15
foster because I know I know good amount of
15:17
cooking but I won't central so. I.
15:20
Feel a you found my target audience
15:22
is no time We have no way
15:24
we'd we did a very careful for
15:26
recess from from the mail bag questions
15:28
I wear my had goes with this
15:30
is pasta for crowd is actually hard
15:33
depending on what you're doing. Some.
15:35
Of the bus passes in the world
15:37
I think exist ideally on a very
15:39
small scale like in Party with Happy.
15:41
It's hard to manipulate a full pound
15:43
of spaghetti in a skillet and get
15:45
the most. and you need to emulsifier
15:47
the cheese and to the sauce, you
15:49
know. Where. Is like I wear my brain
15:51
goes with this is like. Big. The
15:53
pasta. As a way of speeding a
15:55
lot of people but as a distinct goal that
15:57
is separate from like learning about after what is
16:00
what does this do for you? I agree with
16:02
that and it possible for a crowd can be
16:04
a salinger right? And as I made a point
16:06
of highlight all the recipes and my cookbook that
16:08
is at work for make ahead and also to
16:10
do specific instructions for techniques for like couldn't the
16:12
past in advance a be a minute short bled
16:14
out i see panel at a cool and then
16:16
you can finish the dish kind of the last
16:19
minute so that opens up some possibilities. Reward for
16:21
as cook pasta but beyond We start from scratch
16:23
from your company has their way I agree, big
16:25
possibly even that is an area where there's a
16:27
lot of opportunity for innovation in new ideas. I
16:29
felt so. Now I did a ah a
16:31
Baked Cauliflower Mack and sees it's gonna go
16:34
Mustard Beard sees Soul Baronet yes yes with
16:36
a Ritz Cracker crumbs hop And we did
16:38
a I'm Era in the movie Big Night.
16:40
They do the jobs that that is upon
16:43
us right now. We we did one of
16:45
those, but a vegetarian one that's not quite
16:47
so unwieldy with that's a bit is on
16:49
with Dell Adele Case. They ended up eggplants
16:52
thin sliced eggplants roasted with bread crumbs and
16:54
then molded the eggplant around the outside to
16:56
creep the sort of like them. It's like
16:58
a very deep sea suit. Like a bottomless
17:00
T sat on our with what we do
17:03
with pasta, mozzarella and cubed eggplant makes them
17:05
yeah so that was as good on sick
17:07
of you know what we did the others
17:09
who the fuck is we took manic hardy
17:11
or with the other places like manna taught
17:13
him alone can alone you think you got
17:15
like a long yeah I into but we
17:17
did like and salon styles so it is
17:19
smoked setter and fretted sickness when you just
17:22
go to the store by rotisserie chicken if
17:24
you are shortcuts credit mix it with some
17:26
like sour cream or crema and to smoke
17:28
said or sees send you stuff. The pasta
17:30
cells oh you stuff vote Manna Kati Young
17:32
laid out you covered season and a lotta
17:35
sauce and you bake it's and as citizens
17:37
you can make you can prep ahead, throw
17:39
it in the oven and pull it out
17:41
when or ones coming in to make up
17:44
for a crap out of store bought manna
17:46
Caught Eve Okay yeah I'll have fun some.
17:48
Another one that we did it's fun for
17:50
a crowd is a spinach artichoke dip, lasagna
17:53
pinwheels of i have a spill I'm kind
17:55
of anti lasagna Chris because I feel like
17:57
okay, we'll so there's another one hundred subscribers.
18:00
Our but it's like is eternal war and you
18:02
kind of the second gets cut up and a
18:04
few bites are taken out of it. Ricotta Dealing
18:06
with a big Cd effectively. yeah right like a
18:08
August missteps you put all this work to create
18:10
these beautiful distinct layers the very quickly get destroyed.
18:12
So if I decided want to have that are
18:15
my cookbook myself as good be any kind of
18:17
lasagna is thing I wanted to be something really
18:19
special that that a big Cd format couldn't replicate.
18:21
So we did pinwheels you layouts, you cook and
18:23
then lay flat out of a sort of as
18:25
I am a new stuff it with spinach artichoke
18:27
treated like a lemon best smell and you roll.
18:30
It added understand them up and they are
18:32
can cover them with some seas and it's
18:34
it looks incredible. It's a total so stop
18:36
earth's It's also kind of like not quite
18:39
as heavy as a lasagna. it's vegetarian and
18:41
it's got some sees would not pounds and
18:43
pounds of it so it's like satisfying and
18:45
delicious but also little it bright and and
18:47
see spinach artichoke dip to people when they
18:50
go crazy. Honestly that that the great example
18:52
of like recipe development is full of hard
18:54
choices. Like you know I've developed lasagna recipes.
18:56
they all involve some amount of compromise because
18:59
the true ultimate or. Example of lasagna
19:01
is a phenomenal amount of work. I
19:03
mean hand made pasta, sin seeds along
19:05
cooked meat sauce To me like what
19:08
lasagna is all about and this is
19:10
why I get I wait when I
19:12
see a lasagna recipe that doesn't contain
19:14
it. It's about the joy of best
19:17
smell in a big pasta. you know
19:19
best ml To me it's like it
19:21
provides like to psych that moisture that
19:24
plus ness that in contrast with like
19:26
another sauce like a meat or tomato
19:28
based sauce. It's wonderful. On it's own
19:31
it doesn't break under the heat of
19:33
the the of in the way other
19:35
cream based pastas can. I freaking love
19:37
it. You know, like lasagna to me
19:39
is about making some sort of love
19:41
letter to Bash Ml. How ever you
19:43
handle the question of why are you
19:45
getting store bought Noodles are homemade? Are
19:47
you doing a fast sauce? Look slow
19:49
sauce? Whatever else right? Well I'd say
19:51
like to Matthew those are all great
19:53
ideas from damned book. I would also
19:55
to say like listen there's the past
19:57
the you want a speed a crowd.
20:00
Then there's the pastor that I think
20:02
can kind of teach you about what
20:04
it truly means to I you know
20:06
fuse sauce and pasta together. I would
20:09
highly recommend something like a tattoo a
20:11
puppy just for it to make for
20:13
yourself just right on the side. Don't
20:16
overthink it, it's a handful of ingredients
20:18
and it will unlock a world of
20:20
the the simplicity and the beauty of
20:22
simple pasta based really building up a
20:25
sauce out of almost nothing, creating animals
20:27
and out of in opens very little
20:29
but. Creating this like stable wonderful cheesy
20:31
red sauce that is something you owe
20:33
it to yourself to get into hundred
20:36
percent at an order. Some of that
20:38
are in the next question I just
20:40
as a success or that's that's and
20:42
comes from listener Sir Rena I want
20:44
to make a shrimp scampi pasta recipe
20:46
which calls for dry white wine and
20:48
I only have a sweet mascot out
20:50
on hand. Man I wish we could
20:52
have been with you in real time
20:55
that that I'm very happy with your
20:57
hat with that Will this totally ruin
20:59
the recipe? How interchangeable or winds and
21:01
other alcohols and cooking? Well yeah I
21:03
mean sweetness? gotta I'd say probably not
21:05
but mainly just because like residual sugar
21:07
is not going to cook out of
21:09
line. You know I think a lot
21:11
of like why we cook with wine
21:13
is usually for it's acidity as well
21:16
as some amount of flavor that kind
21:18
of carry through in the final this
21:20
but sweetness isn't gonna go anywhere. You
21:22
will have made your pasta, your shrimp,
21:24
whatever it is quite sweet at that
21:26
point. The only thing you could at
21:28
that point do is. Take a page
21:30
from James's cookbook to answer some silly Chris
21:33
been there make it really hot, make very
21:35
bright. you know that's how I'm thinking about
21:37
that. Any thoughts I agreed on average teachers'
21:39
easier to Chris because certain winds the people
21:41
don't consider to be very dry like a
21:44
Pinot Grigio but I feel like the size
21:46
of I have a half drink bottle of
21:48
Pinot Grigio in the fridge and I need
21:50
to cook with some wine. Also use that
21:53
yeah work fine. Totally live as people shouldn't
21:55
get too hung up with recipes is a
21:57
very dry white wine like the official be
21:59
like sugar wine right by like if it's
22:01
Pinot Grigio not shard ne that will still
22:04
be okay a one hundred percent yeah I
22:06
I'm very non fussy about like what wine
22:08
am I cook with Whatever I have open
22:10
is gonna win every time even if it's
22:13
like rose they you know what I mean.
22:15
Something that like the little Blake soft or
22:17
maybe not quite as high as said I'll
22:19
still use it because warming in the do
22:21
like open an entire other bottled says to
22:24
like than dump a third of it into
22:26
and s know run on how I roll
22:28
right. The
22:35
first and then he gets more
22:38
listener. Hi.
22:50
Listeners: It's Crests on Dinner As the
22:52
West's we offer you cooking advice to
22:55
make your week a little less stressful.
22:57
So. Want to share another podcast with the
22:59
that has helped me decompress from the
23:01
stress of everyday life. And. Called
23:04
Meditative Story and in each episode you'll
23:06
hear a different story teller share a
23:08
moment in their life where everything changed
23:10
for them. I just listened
23:12
to the episode with Cielo South Carla
23:15
Hall. She. Says an incredible, heartfelt story
23:17
about the power of play and how he
23:19
fell in love with cooking from watching her
23:21
grandmother and her kitchen. My. Favorite
23:23
part is that the story is
23:25
scored with breathtaking original music and
23:27
interspersed with mindfulness prompts you can
23:29
engage with where ever you may
23:31
be listening. So. Take a
23:34
moment to find meditative story in your podcast
23:36
app and follow the so. Welcome
23:44
back to dinner! Eso es. Aren't
23:47
Next question comes from listener for
23:49
rock. Okay is
23:51
a good run with formally cheap
23:53
cuts like Syncs take becoming more
23:56
expensive. What proteins or cuts do
23:58
you think are still. Value!
24:00
This one's hilarious to me because and as
24:02
he does a lot of our grocery shopping
24:04
here in the task it's and team is
24:06
literally down at Florence Prime Meat Market and
24:09
like just a matter of weeks ago from
24:11
wonderful little narrowed butcher on like Greenwich Village
24:13
west Village area and like somebody is complaining
24:15
about the cost of skirt steak and the
24:17
butcher was like well you know these magazines
24:20
the keep writing I swear on their behalf
24:22
of last and now it's like eighteen dollars.
24:24
Run on try that are the and whatever
24:26
it is so far as a society know
24:28
like sounds like a. Head bowed, ducking
24:30
backing out of cigarettes? Are you know?
24:33
call me crazy for him. Love Ground
24:35
Me. Quality ground meat. You know it's
24:37
if if you have a place that
24:39
actually grinds their meat on site and
24:41
might even like incorporate some different Hudson
24:44
to it. Some places in this is
24:46
more like a premium butcher thing. They
24:48
might even have like some amount of
24:50
dry aged meet that might go into
24:52
specific blend. Honestly, you're gonna struggle to
24:54
pay more than like ten or twelve
24:57
bucks a pound, you know? unless you're
24:59
getting something super. High and and specialty
25:01
and it's so versatile from a coronary
25:03
perspective. That's kind of work I go
25:05
with that is more reflective the how
25:08
iconic cook at home. It's very rare
25:10
that were making state just because everyone
25:12
such a pain and at home with
25:14
the i don't are out there right
25:16
right? I agree. Grammys is delicious. One
25:19
recipe in the cookbook that that if
25:21
you are like double your protein. I'm
25:23
Andrea Winded recipe few years back from
25:25
Oppo Tofu spaghetti. I work with her
25:27
to adapt that to go with caskets.
25:29
Heli. With my possible to the ground meat
25:32
in there goes into those ridges and it's
25:34
fantastic. But one of andrea stroke of genius
25:36
in that recipe is it rather than taking
25:38
that more firm tofu and tubing it and
25:40
them up or to for she digs silken
25:42
tofu as you puree it. Oh, which gives
25:45
the sauce the texture of a of a
25:47
sick cream sauce but with no dairy. Yeah,
25:49
and it holds it all together and so
25:51
it's got a ton of protein and that's
25:53
not expensive at all. and it's incredibly delicious.
25:55
But also he's approaching. I think of Pixies
25:57
Down or my favorite. This isn't the cook.
26:00
His country fried freer. It's from Pouliot to
26:02
the south eastern corner. the show the boot
26:04
of Italy A all the way down. You
26:07
gotta go to this city they they said
26:09
the south eastern most corner of Italy the
26:11
city called let's say in an area called
26:13
the Solent. Oh yeah and let's say is
26:16
like even if you I'm in Italy I'm
26:18
sure you've heard of Rome and Florence in
26:20
Venice and Milan and Tuscany in the Amalfi
26:23
coast. Less is not near any of those
26:25
places ssl it's not abyss Alentejo as very
26:27
little groundwater. So of the cuisine there's very
26:29
focused. On lagoon was a very little
26:31
mean embezzled seas and they have this
26:34
is considering three Fbs. You take pappardelle
26:36
wide flat fresh pasta and tear it
26:38
into pieces like the size of stick
26:40
of gum and half of the pasta.
26:42
You fry until it's crispy and then
26:44
you make a chick pea broth with
26:46
few basic vegetables. Might have some white
26:48
wine and it. And. Said peas and
26:50
then the other half the posse of cook
26:53
in the city broth. Then. Of the
26:55
last second you add the crispy fried pasta.
26:57
it is so simple wow I mean this
26:59
this you can make one portion is for
27:01
fry fifty cents but it's got a ton
27:04
of flavor and it's got the protein, the
27:06
cities and importantly and has the two different
27:08
textures of pasta, the crispy fried pasta and
27:10
the chewy dough you fresh pasta and it
27:12
is so so good. While I mean I've
27:15
obviously no of by posse chichi about this
27:17
is a variation of that that has some
27:19
very interesting sounding. Yeah, now there's a
27:21
bit of a debate in let's say about
27:23
whether you should take the fried for some
27:26
little better. Now that I know you wouldn't
27:28
believe in agree about fact That and I
27:30
yes sir, Yes so some people say you
27:32
should take the fried pasta and simmer it's
27:35
in the city broth for just thirty seconds
27:37
before Servant of has softened it a bit
27:39
and let it soak up some flavor. Others
27:41
say no serve the days and then you
27:44
put the fried pasta on top of the
27:46
very end to maintain maximum crisp. I heard
27:48
this debate was happening and I said why.
27:50
Not both. So.
27:52
For my recipe, I divide the posse
27:55
and thirds so we have one third
27:57
boiled, one third fried, and and partially
27:59
boil. To maintain some crispin and
28:01
different texture and one third not boiled at
28:03
all only fried and that creates the media
28:06
from pasta taxes instead of to which increases
28:08
the text, a variety of the dis and
28:10
the price of in that sensory science call
28:12
dynamic contrasts which is a dotted I'm sure
28:15
you know well bringing together different textures into
28:17
the same by and now you are not
28:19
welcome back for the rest of my life.
28:21
I hope that with Martha. Amazing!
28:26
Now that's so cool. As often think
28:28
about an hour line. way off topic
28:30
I'm sorry Barack like online advertising agency
28:32
steak and word like views and protein.
28:34
We got all kinds of sheep. yeah
28:36
network that's true see protein. I mean
28:38
obviously like going plan Pace has like
28:40
tons of merits of behind it but
28:42
yeah I don't I. You know I
28:45
think so much of this like regional
28:47
variation from like one place the next
28:49
and Italy. It's like you could be
28:51
from one part of Italy and just
28:53
not know what was happening like next
28:55
door. This is fascinating because I have
28:57
family from the south some we never
28:59
had anything. Like quite like that most the
29:01
food I grew up with a like influenced
29:03
by American interpretations of Italian southern Italian food
29:05
ways but you know you really want to
29:07
get sidetracked your chris of them that I
29:09
think you'll find interesting. My research trip across
29:11
Italy the most shocking thing the big take
29:14
way that really inform i brush my both
29:16
was that first of all Italian food culture
29:18
is not as old as people think pasta
29:20
culture is not as older and will think
29:22
Pasa has only been an ass on the
29:24
severely for by the past hundred years Carbonara
29:26
was only events in the nineteen forties and
29:28
fifties and the ingredients are only really standardized.
29:30
In about two thousand, so it's not
29:32
as set in it's ways as Italians
29:34
themselves even seem to think. But also
29:37
a lot of Italian Connery history has
29:39
been influenced by Italian Americans and by
29:41
Italians going to America and then coming
29:43
back. Murder on roads were to Carbonara
29:45
probably could only have come to be
29:47
because of the American presence Italy during
29:49
World War Two. An American rations were
29:51
sort of like bacon and eggs. And
29:54
had greets yeah which was sort of cotchery peppery
29:56
but with grandchild I saw yeah for you it
29:58
was kind the like a pork and pepper and
30:01
she's causing the didn't always have sees it was
30:03
kind of farmers got thrown going to have a
30:05
think and then when americans were there and and
30:07
sort of eating bacon and eggs and have an
30:09
egg and bacon rations and stuff. that's the leading
30:11
theory as to how assorted got matched up with
30:13
ideas about the there are you ended up with
30:15
carbonaro it says the eggs guanciale in the petrino
30:18
in the black pepper and so the point is
30:20
that like italian pasta history is not as old
30:22
as you will think the side of status is
30:24
will thing as not exclusively italian serve totally volt.
30:26
I hope you got all that barack a fat
30:28
fuck around much as I go. To Italy?
30:30
Yeah, and maybe some boneless short ribs
30:32
and their addresses and rank three Affordable.
30:35
Caught? Yeah. Maybe still passing under the
30:37
radar or it's finally here. A seasonal
30:39
question from Td. My family and I
30:42
love a lazy lingering Sunday dinner in
30:44
the summer. we slice up fresh veggies,
30:46
make or sometimes open some hummus, and
30:48
poor on some brining olives. Maybe some
30:51
burrata or feather jump on their if
30:53
I have some, I feel like picking
30:55
on the board all afternoon is so
30:57
satisfying. Only one big this to clean.
31:00
And you're done. But right now it's
31:02
winter. The produce is not great. It's
31:04
easy to be inspired when the weather
31:06
is good in the one he alfresco
31:08
for. The early darkness and silly air
31:10
is making it hard to feel inspired.
31:12
My boards are more limp leftovers than
31:14
magical medicine Ss. And what I know
31:16
when I'm bored: Three sons, could you
31:18
suggest? What do you think? I mean
31:21
depending on where you live? certainly seasonality.
31:23
There's times a year that things aren't
31:25
you did on as many options. But
31:27
like I feel like this is soup
31:29
weather and. Soup is another area where I
31:31
feel like I think a lot of who are not
31:33
taking advantage of the full spectrum of all the suits
31:35
the to be having for to say to me as
31:37
accident will be in the spirit of what this person
31:40
is talking what is like make a ball soup and
31:42
then go to the bakery and geico really nice low
31:44
for fresh bread with a nice thick crust on it.
31:46
may be years to be with the super maybe are
31:48
going to make some nice glowed seize up something like
31:50
riddled with a nice olive oil I'm outside of you're
31:52
gonna cut six slices and this fresh bread written a
31:54
griddle it now of oil with maybe a blend of
31:57
a couple different cheeses in an injured in a did
31:59
that into this. That's got the wintertime version
32:01
of what I'm hearing described in this
32:03
alfresco scenario. I like that You know
32:05
there was many years where we we
32:07
know for healthiest foods as a sub
32:09
brand that we kind of hard and
32:11
he bear gone and I did have
32:13
a lot of the recipe development for
32:15
it. You know every year January would
32:17
roll around with Trot out the feel
32:19
good food plan. I love those recipes
32:21
as a non dogmatic glebe. L C
32:23
later approaches to just cooking especially for
32:25
people who are looking for New Year's
32:27
resettled last couple of years of. Them
32:30
might screw that you know of any
32:32
and like Iraq and first of all
32:34
everybody else is in that space. com
32:37
New year right? Like new year in
32:39
a yeah whatever find like yet eat
32:41
the things that like winter is for
32:44
right to lean into the coziness, the
32:46
hardiness, lean into the fact that like
32:48
yeah it's soup see then you know
32:51
you can bundle up with a ball
32:53
of light tomato soup or whatever and
32:55
grilled cheese. I still think what lock
32:57
them in like videos and season maybe
33:00
citrus. And sees doesn't always go together,
33:02
but the firmer, saltier teases certainly go
33:04
with citrus. Like, I think you just
33:06
have to really shake up what you're
33:08
thinking about the know as being like
33:11
in season tropical fruit isn't season Again,
33:13
I wouldn't necessarily serve. Now I was
33:15
like starting to say like maybe not
33:17
pineapple with burrata but actually I think
33:19
it might be a diss actor. Want
33:21
a boy you know, like I'm like,
33:24
what other desserts I think you're interpreting
33:26
this little bit overly narrowly. You know
33:28
there's a lot going on. Even right
33:30
now I love radicchio season. I love
33:32
bitter greens. They last for ever in
33:34
the fridge. You know the let us
33:36
out please let us sucks. Right now
33:38
they're getting ticked all the way to
33:40
the east coast from California. Albert the
33:42
radicchio is perky. It's there for you
33:44
and other hand and ago I got
33:46
a recipe. the cookbook this radicchio and
33:49
and dive with a sauce. It's like
33:51
a riff on like a banya kowtow
33:53
like I'm at seven. The got like
33:55
eighteen and so visas is like incredibly
33:57
savory new kind of like fear that
33:59
produce either. The only and I've and
34:01
it's crunchiness, bitter. it is credibly savory. He
34:03
a band called it is like literally seek
34:05
food and sums of like you know, just
34:07
something with tons of garlic, tons of and
34:09
soviets lots of olive oil. maybe a little
34:12
bit it's he's in there like something to
34:14
dip your fresh feds, whatever in your not
34:16
nestling and want to eat that in June.
34:18
You know they celebrate what's around to like
34:20
now that you can make the most of
34:22
right? Listen, dance. Really fun to chat with
34:25
you is my pleasure. they so much rather
34:27
me. yeah I mean why goodness you've thought
34:29
a lot about part of. Some
34:32
might say too much but you know I guess
34:34
of other things to obsess over in the world
34:36
how how is your family coping with. About
34:39
about us Are they okay? Well I'm a bit
34:41
vague. They get a kick out of a but
34:43
I give you listen to the news foreclosures with
34:46
the making of the cookbook which features them prominently.
34:48
there are several areas moments, route, or I'm like
34:50
trying to explain to them by the thought process
34:52
behind a desk. I invented this thing called past
34:54
the pizza. It's like eg, take a long is
34:56
it a cook fettuccine? Put it on a sheet
34:58
pan and you roasted in the bottom from. Others
35:00
be brown yeah and good. Very troubling pizza pick
35:02
up places needed. I thought of it while driving
35:04
in the current I come home as had my
35:06
daughter Emily's ten years old I said i got
35:09
this idea for the simple pasta pizza as she
35:11
goes also likes pizza about like with process and
35:13
my yet do I hear more about it says
35:15
i know it already sounds good and of I
35:17
ask you to tell me more about it is
35:20
for got a whole lot when I was in
35:22
a so I'd rather just avoid that settle and
35:24
success Yeah I mean it's worth pointing out that
35:26
you know for people in the food space their
35:28
families are along for the ride. You know,
35:31
for sure like really. I mean that sometimes they
35:33
get fed up. But. I wouldn't they
35:35
had savvy pasta than the onboard
35:37
ssssss. other. Six,
35:42
you have a dinner emergency on
35:44
your have the right to us
35:46
at dinner as though as the
35:48
when apathy.com or leave us a
35:50
voice message. That's and once you
35:52
sweet sex as the last one
35:54
to one to to eat Six
35:56
Seven Zero Seven One check out
35:58
the unspoken Anything's possible. I'm more
36:00
creative approaches. the pasta you can find
36:02
it was ever that's are sold. If
36:07
you enjoyed this episode, please give us
36:09
the rating and review on the path
36:11
of choice. Oliver
36:13
and see and never miss an episode. Thanks
36:17
for listening to dinner as though
36:19
as I'm your host Chris Morocco
36:21
my cohost this week and then
36:23
passion or producer is Michelle O'brien
36:25
hidden his larsen see a see
36:27
through every foods that are assistant
36:29
producer. Jake Limits with
36:31
or studio engineer Far Law makes.
36:35
Christian and on the now head
36:37
of Global Audio. Next
36:40
week Easy and Nina her twins
36:43
who love to cook together about
36:45
cz love baking doesn't always go
36:47
well for her sister. I
36:50
kind of This guy like I have like
36:52
one more saw it as trying to bait
36:54
together and following her allies with me as
36:56
an otherwise maybe. I'll just have grown. Were.
37:02
Debating to some of the pan
37:05
and golden brown or dark golden
37:07
brown. Years got
37:09
a look of consternation on your face.
37:11
Christian I guess we'll see in our
37:13
recipe editor. Legal Brothel Last Resort is
37:15
one of the our conversation be a
37:18
probably yeah it's like gold in who
37:20
it's like golden. You're in one space
37:22
but like dark gold and is almost
37:24
like a contradiction in terms like you've
37:26
moved outside. Of the gold, Hey
37:32
listen Earth Chris Morocco here
37:34
as you find yourself in
37:36
a dinner crisis at the
37:38
curious as to the rescue.
37:40
Not only we unlock over
37:42
fifty thousand recipes from phone
37:44
app heat Epicurious feel also
37:46
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Head to the Apple App store and
37:53
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37:55
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38:00
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38:02
your tits and here a happy. Cook.
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