Episode Transcript
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0:00
Make holiday gatherings more delicious at Whole
0:02
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Pick up crowd-pleasing flatbreads that are ready
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on sale, starting at $7.99. Host
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the perfect holiday party with Whole Foods
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Market. Must be 21 plus, please drink
0:29
responsibly. Hey
0:31
listeners, Chris Morocco here. Solving
0:34
dinner emergencies might be my specialty,
0:37
but for me, Thanksgiving is about
0:39
savoring the moment, not stressing
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in the kitchen. That's where
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1:45
there, listeners, future callers, and
1:50
cooking enthusiasts. This is the podcast for
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talk about the things that make a good podcast.
1:56
Hey there, listeners, future callers,
1:59
and cooking enthusiasts. the show where we help you save
2:01
dinner or whatever you're cooking. I'm
2:04
Chris Morocco, food director of Bon Appetit
2:06
and Epicurious. And today, I'm
2:09
joined by some very special colleagues. Hi,
2:12
I'm Rachel Gorjar and I'm an associate
2:14
food editor in the Bon Appetit Test
2:16
Kitchen. I'm Kendra Vaculin and
2:18
I'm also an associate food editor at Bon
2:20
Appetit. My name is Ina Sangeano
2:22
and I'm the test kitchen coordinator at Bon Appetit.
2:26
If you've received your December issue of
2:28
Bon Appetit, then you know our food
2:30
editors went all in on a cookie
2:32
swap this year. So
2:34
today on Dinner SOS, we're bringing
2:37
you a cookie swap swap. We
2:39
have each chosen one of our colleagues'
2:41
cookie recipes from the December issue. And
2:44
we're going to go around the table and make a
2:46
case for why that should be the cookie you make
2:48
this holiday season. And then
2:50
we'll answer some listener questions about
2:52
curating the perfect cookie selection. Basically,
2:56
we're going to talk about cookies first, and then we're going
2:58
to talk about cookies again, but in a different way. And
3:01
then we're going to talk about cookies after that. Got
3:03
it? Before
3:06
we start the cookie swap swap,
3:09
let's just talk about cookies. I
3:11
feel like everybody in their heart of hearts is a cookie
3:13
person at the end of the day, right?
3:16
Or is that not right? I
3:18
think so more than others. Yeah,
3:20
I don't know. He's not a cookie person here.
3:22
I'm not really a cookie person. I think it's
3:24
one of those things where, yeah, it's a little
3:26
bit of something for everyone, but I think
3:28
it's really hard to sell that it is worth
3:31
the hoopla. Wow. To
3:33
me, like a cookie is a home
3:35
product. Like if I go to a
3:38
bakery, I'm not spending my American
3:40
dollars on a cookie. I'm
3:42
going to buy something that takes more
3:44
time, like a croissant or something
3:47
that I can't make at home. Cookies
3:49
feel like that's something I do. Yeah,
3:51
it's giving laborists. I think that's the thing
3:53
for me. It's just giving like project. There's no
3:55
cookie that comes to mind where I'm like, Oh
3:58
yeah, just like. even
4:00
though you can. But it's just like the cookie I
4:02
want, the cookie I dream about, it's very seldom
4:04
that I think that it's
4:06
easily achievable. Totally. Well, I
4:08
agree that it certainly is hard to find a
4:11
wonderful cookie out in the world. And it
4:13
is true that you can make a great
4:16
cookie at home. You can make a cookie
4:18
that's probably better than a lot of what
4:20
you can get in most bakeries' stores of
4:22
any kind. And then you can have
4:24
all dozen to yourself. Yes. Right.
4:27
You have to spend $3.50 on one
4:29
lackluster cookie. Yeah. And
4:32
your house smells amazing. Yeah, true. Yeah. No
4:35
where I went just then. You remember
4:37
the movie Clueless House when Christian's like
4:39
coming over? She's just like, I better
4:41
be baking something. Yeah. She just
4:43
dumps the log of dough onto the cookie sheet and
4:45
just shoves it in the oven. And then of course
4:47
forgets about it. Yeah. It's
4:50
like you're supposed to do that when you want to
4:52
sell your house. Correct. You're supposed to like
4:54
make the smell of cookies in your house and then people
4:56
will buy it. I'm curious to
4:58
hear everybody's kind of earliest cookie
5:00
memories or just like holiday cookie
5:02
memories. For me, my
5:04
aunt, Mary Ann, shout out Mary
5:06
Ann's Go Field in Seattle, Washington.
5:09
She for as long as I can
5:12
remember makes like 30
5:14
types of cookies for Christmas. Like
5:16
truly, I mean, she is a maximalist
5:18
across the board. Like she has three
5:21
Christmas trees, but she also is like
5:23
making so many Christmas cookies and going
5:25
to her house. We would usually
5:27
go up to Seattle after we had Christmas, like
5:29
as a family, then we'd go up to see
5:31
my dad's side of the family in Seattle and
5:33
have Christmas part two on like the 27th and
5:36
dessert was always the best part because she would
5:38
put out platters upon platters upon platters on platters
5:40
of cookies. And you would do your
5:42
best not to get fooled because there were two
5:44
cookies that looked a lot alike and one was
5:46
like fully chocolate and one had rum inside of
5:48
it. And as a child, nothing could be worse
5:50
than like accidentally eating the rum ball. Yeah. But
5:54
I mean, I don't even know where she found the time
5:56
to make all these cookies, but it was everything.
5:58
It was like all the frost. cookies
6:00
like cut out in the shapes of
6:02
you know the tree and the wreath
6:05
and the elves and whatever if you
6:07
would make all sorts of like M&M
6:09
cookies with all this like mix-ins everything
6:11
was red and green frosted sprinkles there
6:13
was like the non-bake like haystack style
6:15
cookies brownies the bark I mean
6:18
it was crazy this is the thing she
6:20
did everything she's the queen of cookies yeah
6:22
so that's that's my number one memory
6:24
regarding Christmas cookies I love that what
6:26
about you Rachel like where do cookies
6:28
bring you for me so I
6:30
grew up in India and my mom
6:33
never baked cookies but I do remember
6:35
going to a local bakery and picking
6:38
up cookies and in India we don't
6:40
call them cookies they're biscuits oh
6:43
of course so
6:45
we went to pick up biscuits and
6:48
there is one that I really
6:51
like it's called nana katai it's kind
6:53
of like a short breadie that's the
6:55
vibe it's very simple but it's so
6:57
delicious and then we have
6:59
a couple of other variations with spices
7:01
which are really yummy the ones with
7:03
spices you would see flakes of cumin
7:06
seeds on top and
7:08
there's usually a simple sugar
7:10
crust it's not even a
7:12
glaze you know when the glaze
7:15
really hardens and it becomes like
7:17
crispy yeah so I
7:19
remember that and then during Christmas because there's
7:21
a big Christian community in India so they
7:23
would do the fancy ones with green and
7:27
red like white frosting
7:29
so I remember that I love it when
7:31
the frosting on a cookie is hard yeah
7:34
it's very bakery yeah I
7:37
like it when it's hard so I can chip
7:39
it off and eat it there in a little
7:41
pile on my plate that like one of the
7:43
kids can come along and what
7:47
about you and that's were you always a cookie
7:49
Grinch or or did you grow into it I
7:51
think it's genetic I was a big cake family
7:55
and I don't know if that's from being around a
7:57
lot of women from the American South
7:59
but cheeses
12:00
and meats. Holiday wines and beers are also
12:02
on sale starting at $7.99. Host the perfect
12:06
holiday party with Whole Foods Market.
12:08
Must be 21 plus. Please drink
12:10
responsibly. Hi,
12:13
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for more adventures on Women
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Who Travel. Wherever you listen
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to a podcast. Welcome back
13:20
to the Dinner SOS, cookie swap swap.
13:23
So like last year we didn't really
13:25
have a strong cookie moment. There were
13:27
a couple as part of the Claire
13:30
Safat's package of recipes. I don't know.
13:32
I think the question of like every
13:34
brand every year seems to come out
13:36
with anywhere from one to like seven
13:38
new cookie recipes. And at the end
13:40
of the day, how many people need
13:42
another cookie recipe? You know, that was
13:45
me. I guess I had taken the
13:47
page out of Inez's book last year.
13:49
So we didn't do it. And we were mad
13:51
at you. And you guys were mad at me.
13:53
I'll be honest. Well, you were like, you know,
13:55
the space is inundated with cookies, which it is.
13:58
People will get their cookies elsewhere if they need
14:00
to and we can provide a different service,
14:02
which is a good point. And yet I
14:04
was like, I want to do cookies. I
14:07
know. And then we didn't do it. And then
14:10
I was like, Oh, I feel like 15% sadder,
14:12
you know, that
14:14
we didn't tackle cookies as a team,
14:16
you know, and when this year rolled
14:18
around, I think we all
14:20
felt so strongly that we
14:22
wanted to have a really fun cookie
14:25
moment. And I feel like we did it.
14:27
Yeah, I'm so happy that we did it in
14:29
this way to where every member
14:31
of the test kitchen got to like, do
14:33
their thing. And we got to see
14:35
the breadth of what a
14:38
cookie box curated by our group would
14:40
look like. Yeah, totally. And they took
14:43
all types of forms and shapes. And
14:45
the whole conceit was sort of like
14:47
the BA kind of test kitchen slash
14:49
staff does a cookie swap, right? We
14:52
all kind of bring our own kind
14:54
of cookies and personalities and ideas and
14:56
personas to the table. Well,
14:59
except for me, of course, because I did
15:01
not develop a cookie this year. I
15:04
just ate the cookies this year. But the fact that
15:06
we did them was enough for me. And
15:08
so I want to do a cookie
15:11
swap swap where we go around and
15:13
we each talk about one of the
15:15
cookies that our colleagues made this year
15:17
that we just totally fell head over
15:20
heels for. How does that sound? Sounds
15:22
good. I'm in agreement. Yeah.
15:25
And as like, I want like 38%
15:28
more energy, like the work is done,
15:30
the hard part is over. Don't
15:33
worry, we're not going to make you do another cookie for
15:35
like at least nine months. It was definitely
15:37
a challenge, but I'm glad to
15:39
be on the other side of it. Okay.
15:41
Inez, take us out of the gate here.
15:43
What was the cookie, you know, from the
15:46
ones that we developed this year that you want
15:48
to talk about? I think hands down, it's the
15:50
one that embodies just sort of my philosophy
15:52
around cookies and my sentiments, but also
15:54
like ease me into just like, okay,
15:56
I can accept this cookie. It
15:59
was Rachel. chili cheese cookie,
16:01
I think it was one of those
16:03
things that I'd never seen before. Could
16:05
not conceptualize it, I think when she
16:08
was first like telling me about the idea, I
16:10
was like, how are we gonna bridge that sort
16:12
of world between like something being a savory cracker
16:14
and then a cookie, like what is a cookie?
16:16
I think it sent me into this space of
16:18
just like thinking of that and that existentialism brought
16:20
me to one of the greatest things I've ever
16:22
had. I think it had everything that I could
16:24
ever want. It was salty, one of
16:26
my faves. It had cheddar
16:29
cheese, so it was sharp and had
16:31
a generous just like addition of Aleppo
16:33
around the sugar crusting. There's something just
16:35
about how everything came together. Everything was
16:37
so cohesive but so different. It's one
16:39
of those things that you could never
16:41
imagine until you have it. I
16:43
would have never seen it working as well as
16:45
it did and it's beautiful. Like it's just everything
16:47
I like about eating. The way it looks, it's the way it
16:49
tastes and then also just like the way
16:51
it reimagined for me what cookies can be was
16:53
really what sold it for me. Yeah, it's
16:56
like it's so squarely a cookie. Like
16:58
the thing about that cookie is like
17:00
we've done like the Ina Garten, we
17:02
did it in the magazine I think
17:04
for last Thanksgiving even. The Ina Garten
17:06
slice and bake crackers that were like
17:08
cheddar crackers or Chipotle cheese crackers and
17:10
while the slice and bake part of
17:12
it are the same for those two
17:15
things, they could not taste more different.
17:17
They're so distinct and this is 100%
17:19
belongs in your cookie box, belongs
17:22
on your dessert table energy. It's the
17:25
sweetness against the chili that is like out
17:27
of this world. Right and it's so not
17:29
a cracker. I think that was the thing
17:31
too where I was just like how
17:33
did you get this to be so buttery and like
17:35
so smooth, it's so delicious. It's so
17:37
good. Yeah, I agree. Like
17:39
there's something about preserving that
17:42
slightly open, tender, buttery, crumbly,
17:44
more like almost like sable
17:46
texture of like a sweet
17:48
almost like shortbread style cookie but then
17:50
overlays this like savoriness to it. It's
17:52
not that it doesn't have sugar and
17:55
to your point it's not that it's
17:57
like a cracker. It has that like
18:00
wonderful kind of melt in your mouth
18:02
quality, tempered slightly by the fact that
18:04
there is that sort of like solidity,
18:06
you know, from the cheese, that kind
18:08
of comes in and sort of like
18:10
supports that structure, but it's a real
18:12
fun kind of like hybrid of like
18:14
both sweet and savory and just so
18:16
nicely done. Yeah, my husband
18:19
who is usually like anti-sweet
18:21
thing in his savory, he's like, you know, get
18:23
the fruit out of the salad type of energy.
18:26
I brought him home like a
18:28
quart container of these chili cheese
18:30
cookies and he demolished. Totally. What
18:34
about you, Rachel? Which cookie did you pick? I
18:36
picked Kendra's Matcha Swell
18:38
Spritz Cookies, actually. They
18:42
are Grinch colored, but I
18:44
feel like in your cookie box, you need
18:46
a cookie like this, you
18:49
know, that just oozes the
18:51
holidays. It is so inviting,
18:53
it's so bright and it's
18:55
so fun. And as
18:57
I was testing this recipe, I realized
19:00
how easy it is to make just
19:02
like this cookie is your inn. So,
19:04
you know, if I was friends with
19:06
Inez as a kid, I would be
19:08
like, let's make these cookies because you
19:11
have two colors, they're fun.
19:14
You know, you use your little
19:16
spritz press, which makes it more
19:18
fun and then you can decorate
19:20
it. So really an easy,
19:22
delicious kind of fun, creative
19:25
cookie. And
19:27
your cookie box, that is needed. And they're
19:29
so durable, I think that sometimes when I
19:31
saw you like making them with the gun,
19:33
I was like, oh my God, these
19:36
are gonna be like dainty. You
19:38
blow on them, they shatter cookies. But I think
19:40
that just like the integrity of them is also
19:42
like really impressive and they're so much more than
19:44
meets the eye, they're so gorgeous. Yeah. I
19:46
feel like cookie presses have fallen kind of
19:48
out of favor. I don't know, is that
19:50
fair? No, I think that's true. No, it's
19:53
true. This is a style of cookie that
19:55
is, you know, born of the fact that
19:57
like there's certain doughs that just have such a
19:59
high proportion of. fat that you can't roll
20:01
and cut them because they would just
20:03
fall to bits like you'd never get
20:05
them off your surface. They're
20:08
too rich to be sliced.
20:10
You know, I guess you could drop
20:13
the dough, but then you would have
20:15
like a shapeless mass, right? But instead,
20:17
like the dough is extruded
20:19
like pasta, right? Like the press
20:21
is pushing it through one of
20:23
many plates that come
20:26
with the press. And I'm sure
20:28
there's gotta be some wild Etsy
20:30
store devoted to like
20:32
specific vintage cookie press
20:34
forms to those dyes.
20:36
And it gives you
20:39
this cookie that like, Inez, I
20:41
think you mentioned like Danish butter
20:43
cookies, right? Like a cookie that
20:45
is like, it's so buttery and
20:47
so tender, so melt in
20:49
your mouth, just wants to just like Evaness
20:51
at the touch, you know, of like finger.
20:53
I have like a very
20:56
strong association with holiday spritz cookies
20:58
because my grandma, she always had
21:00
green Christmas trees in the mixture, right? And
21:02
because she was an Italian American, she had
21:04
to put like multicolored no parades all
21:07
over them. I mean, just like literally, she
21:09
must have had a cannon, she would just
21:11
like be firing colored sprinkles at like everything
21:13
she ever baked. With this cookie
21:15
with the chili cheese cookie and the ones
21:18
that you know, we're going to be talking
21:20
about shortly as well. I think the question
21:22
for me is always like, what is the
21:24
thing that's going to draw people in? You
21:26
know, like what about each cookie makes it
21:29
feel familiar and inviting? What is
21:31
like that additional layer that's new that
21:33
we're bringing to it this year? And
21:35
that inclusion of matcha really felt like
21:37
the one thing that was going to
21:40
make this spritz cookie feel like it
21:42
was different from every other spritz cookie
21:44
out there. Yeah, for sure. And
21:46
crazily, great timing. We actually just tested I
21:48
was talking to Sonia Chopra earlier and she
21:50
was like, you should figure out a way
21:53
that you can use this dough for people
21:55
who don't have a press. So just earlier
21:57
this morning, we sort of marbled the two
21:59
colors together. and rolled it into a log,
22:01
and then froze that for 30 minutes, and
22:03
then sliced and baked it, and it worked
22:05
great. So if you don't have a press,
22:07
you actually can still make these cookies. They
22:10
won't be as, like, extraordinarily gorgeous, but
22:12
they are really delicious still. If I
22:14
do say so myself, they are. Okay,
22:17
Kendra, you are up next. Okay,
22:19
so the cookies that I chose were
22:21
the cookies that were the biggest journey
22:24
this year, which were
22:26
Inez's baklava cookies. They
22:30
were absolutely worth, there was a lot of
22:32
trial, but it was worth it. And a
22:34
lot of error. It's okay. There
22:36
was even more error at the trial. It was so
22:39
worth it. Like, Inez came in with this
22:41
idea of, like, baklava, but make it a
22:43
cookie, which, you just hear
22:45
that phrase, and you're like, I'm in,
22:47
sold, take all my money, like, I
22:49
want that, and with such diligence, she
22:52
tried to make there be
22:55
phyllo dough in this cookie.
22:57
Like, tried so hard to make that be true,
22:59
and it fought her every step of the way
23:01
to the point where at the end, it was
23:03
like, no, we're not
23:06
using this dough at all.
23:08
We're taking the beautiful, honey,
23:10
nutty, gorgeous filling of
23:12
a piece of baklava, and
23:14
we're stuffing it into the
23:16
belly of sugar cookie dough
23:18
and baking it off. And
23:20
then we're tossing that in
23:22
this spiced, rose-pedley sugar mixture.
23:25
I mean, it is not only so delicious,
23:28
like, when you bite into it,
23:30
visually seeing that, like, nutty belly
23:32
on the inside. We're like molten
23:35
inside. God, it's so good. But
23:37
also, the fragrance, like, it really,
23:39
if you just close your eyes,
23:41
it smells like baklava. That mixture
23:43
of pistachio and rose, it's so
23:45
evocative to me. This is
23:47
definitely the cookie that I will be making
23:49
this year. I think it's so stunning, and
23:51
the payoff is huge. I know there was
23:54
a labor of love, but we are so
23:56
grateful to you for sticking with it. Thank
23:58
you so much. What did Chris say earlier? I don't
24:00
want to oveness right now. For
24:03
someone who does not like cookies in
24:05
S, it was amazing to see your
24:07
journey and then to just see the
24:09
result of this cookie being, it's a
24:11
special cookie. Thank you so much. It's
24:13
so special. And now we
24:16
know, CeeLo Dough is not a cookie,
24:18
it's for the other stuff. Save
24:21
it for your spanakopita. No,
24:23
it definitely gave Test Kitchen. Yeah,
24:25
it definitely was giving experience,
24:28
but I think it showed me too, just
24:30
like, that's the whole point of this, or just like,
24:32
I think that's what's so spectacular about each one
24:34
of these cookies is that it really does do
24:36
the work of reimagining what a cookie is
24:39
and just like, we get cookies every year.
24:41
But I've never seen some like these. No,
24:43
these are, it's so good. And like, when
24:45
you say it's a cookie, but it's baklava,
24:47
there are a lot of different directions you
24:49
could go because baklava can be a lot
24:51
of different things. And this, I
24:53
think, is like the perfect combination. I love
24:55
it so much. It's a great cookie.
24:58
Yeah, there was pretty much a 0% chance
25:00
of us walking out of this recording session,
25:03
not having discussed the baklava cookie, even if
25:05
nobody had chosen it. Because
25:08
I think developing recipes professionally is
25:10
sort of predicated on this notion
25:12
of being able to
25:14
sort of like, pitch people an idea,
25:16
right? Like baklava cookie, that sounds
25:19
great. Just like take something that is
25:21
familiar and you know, but add
25:23
an element that is unfamiliar and away
25:25
you go off to the kitchen to
25:27
make it a reality. Well, I mean, like
25:29
the nature of recipe developing is that you
25:32
hope you can make good on that promise.
25:34
Or otherwise stated, to your point,
25:36
Kendra, like there's multiple
25:39
sort of possible outcomes to
25:41
that setup, right? And it's
25:43
so rare that what we
25:45
initially go into pitches with is
25:48
what comes out here. Oh, yeah.
25:50
Like it inevitably goes through mountains
25:52
of changes or else you didn't
25:55
really test it. Yeah,
25:57
there's a lot of trial and error
25:59
because Yeah, to your point, it's
26:01
like we were using phyllo dough in ways
26:03
that were perhaps not entirely in line with
26:07
its capabilities, but we were really trying to push
26:09
the law. Yeah, crimes against culinary. Can we just
26:11
have that? It was... But
26:14
I think that was really important, Inez.
26:16
I know sometimes the journey is very
26:18
painful, and I agree,
26:20
there comes a moment where I
26:22
think we all collectively sense that,
26:24
you know what? You're not just
26:26
gonna simply cook your way out
26:28
of this problem, you need to
26:30
pivot. You need to adapt, and you
26:32
need to kind of find a new
26:34
direction to let this concept, this
26:36
idea breathe. And I think you
26:38
did that so well. The moment
26:41
at which you kind of maintained, you
26:44
know what, this is not meant to
26:46
be a phyllo-based cookie. We are gonna
26:48
do something different. We are gonna do
26:50
essentially like a drop-style sort of neutral
26:52
sugar cookie dough, and we're gonna encase
26:54
the filling within it. It's like, hey,
26:56
at that point, go for it. It
26:58
sounds really smart, it solves
27:00
the problem, and it still delivers on
27:02
that sort of central premise of like,
27:04
we're gonna give you a baklava cookie.
27:06
Even more so, I would argue. Like,
27:09
I didn't know that this would be the case, but
27:12
if we had used it, and you had
27:15
miraculously gotten it to be a cookie, I
27:17
would've been like, well, this is just baklava,
27:19
but in a different shape. And this instead
27:21
really delivered on it being a cookie, but
27:23
with the flavors of baklava. Right, and I
27:26
think it challenged me ultimately to define like,
27:28
in my own mind, okay, what is baklava?
27:30
It's not flaky pastry, it's not flaky pastry.
27:32
Yeah. So then it also gives you
27:34
an opportunity to assess, what is this thing? And ask
27:37
those questions for yourself. You can experience something so many
27:39
times, but until you really sit with it, and like
27:41
sort of like dissect it, you don't know what it
27:43
is. Yeah. Well, lastly,
27:45
the cookie that I wanted to
27:47
talk about is Jessie
27:49
Chef-Chex Morris cookie. And
27:52
part of the reason is that
27:54
the process was almost exactly like
27:56
the baklava cookie. Right, it's like
27:58
somebody says s'mores. cookie and the
28:01
deep voice inside you is
28:03
just like, yes, I want
28:05
that. But the question
28:07
is like, okay, what aspect of a
28:09
s'mores are you trying to recreate and
28:11
how and how do you do it
28:14
in such a way that a home
28:16
cook, somebody who doesn't feel nearly the
28:18
same confidence that you might in the
28:20
kitchen, is able to follow
28:23
it and recreate that. And
28:25
Jesse started off making a sort
28:27
of a Linzer style cookie. It was like a graham
28:30
cracker crumb based dough
28:32
that then used a
28:34
layer of toasted marshmallow in the sort
28:37
of like what would normally be the
28:39
jam layer of a Linzer with a
28:41
window pane sort of top slab of
28:43
cookie on top of it. And forgot
28:45
that's how this cookie started. Yeah, how
28:47
it started, right? I mean, isn't that
28:49
like freaking wild? We
28:51
kind of looked at it and we're like, this
28:53
is like really clever. This is pleasant. And then
28:56
it was like, yeah, let's change it. Like it's
28:58
not enough just because it's reimagining the s'mores experience.
29:00
It's not necessarily taking what's great
29:03
about a s'mores and amplifying that.
29:06
Right? And actually when you sit there and
29:08
think about it, is a s'mores like that
29:10
good? You know, if you weren't in the
29:12
woods, if you hadn't gotten bitten by like
29:14
100 mosquitoes that day and also had a
29:16
sunburn, would it hit the same way? And
29:19
so instead of like hard kind of
29:22
crappy graham crackers that like you forgot
29:24
about last summer and our like back
29:26
for like this summer's s'mores
29:28
rodeo, you have like a
29:30
drop style cookie that's very tender
29:32
and uses graham cracker crumbs still
29:34
in the dough, but it's like
29:36
a soft, chewy, crispy cookie. You
29:38
then have marshmallow fluff store bought,
29:41
which is broiled in the oven.
29:43
Like I couldn't believe this. He
29:45
just spreads it out on a
29:47
baking sheet, broils the heck out
29:49
of it until it's like black
29:51
and then incorporates that torched marshmallow
29:53
stirs it back through the rest
29:55
of the fluff. And funnily enough,
29:57
it does. You would think that
29:59
it would. the whole thing would turn
30:01
black. It doesn't, it's still like mostly white.
30:03
And it comes off the sheet pan
30:05
really easy. It's actually crazy. Like how
30:07
does it, I don't even know. I
30:11
thought that was gonna be a disaster to clean
30:13
up and he just scraped it right off and
30:15
plopped it back in the jar, it's amazing. Yeah,
30:17
completely. And then he has like a water-based ganache,
30:20
so just like a mixture of melted chocolate with
30:22
water just to thin it out so that it
30:24
stays kind of supple when it firms back up.
30:26
And then it's done, you know, as a sandwich
30:29
cookie, what do we call that,
30:31
like a- Like a whoopie pie. Yeah, so
30:33
it's like, again, it's like following these like
30:35
really fun, really compelling kind of ideas and
30:38
inspiration, but following them through the journey of
30:40
how they became a reality and all the
30:42
decisions that kind of went into it along
30:45
the way. I just love that like it
30:47
took all of the great things about
30:49
s'mores and made them better and made
30:51
them replicable and something that you can
30:53
pass out on a plate around the
30:56
holidays or any time of year, frankly.
30:58
It would really only be Jesse,
31:00
Cookie Prince, who would think I'm
31:02
gonna take graham crackers, put them
31:04
into a powder and then use
31:06
that as the flour in my
31:09
coffee. Like that's some
31:11
evil scientist thinking and it
31:13
paid off. All
31:17
right, we're gonna take another break. When
31:19
we get back, we've got a cookie
31:22
box full of listener questions.
31:28
If you're like me, you're probably excited that
31:37
we're getting into the holiday dinner spirit
31:39
with delicious favorites like mashed potatoes and
31:42
biscuits, which is why
31:44
I highly recommend checking out gravy. No,
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not the gravy you serve with your
31:49
Thanksgiving turkey. I'm talking about gravy, the
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31:54
award-winning food podcast produced by
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32:01
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32:03
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32:08
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32:17
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32:23
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So go ahead, follow Gravy on
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Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or your favorite
32:32
listening app, and tell them we've
32:35
set you. Hi
32:37
listeners, it's Chris. On Dinner
32:39
SOS, we offer you cooking advice to make
32:41
your week a little less stressful. So
32:44
I want to share another podcast with you
32:46
that has helped me decompress from the stress
32:48
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32:53
hear a different storyteller share a moment
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them. I just listened
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to the episode with fellow chef Carla
33:01
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33:03
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app and follow the show. Welcome
33:31
back to Dinner SOS. This
33:34
year we got a bunch of listener
33:36
questions about baking, gift-worthy cookies, and we're
33:38
going to tackle a few of them
33:40
together, mailbag style. Okay,
33:43
I'm reading the first question. Email
33:45
from Callie. I'm an avid
33:47
cook slash baker and stay-at-home mom
33:50
with three kids under three. Yikes.
33:53
And I'm wanting to do lovely treat boxes
33:55
for my neighbors this year. However, my free
33:57
time is limited and I'd love to be...
34:00
able to do prep work early in the season
34:02
as I have windows of time.
34:04
Is there a collection of cookies,
34:07
confections, desserts, etc. that freeze well
34:09
ahead of time, look gorgeous, and
34:11
can be arranged in a Pinterest-worthy
34:13
manner for holiday gifting? I
34:16
love this question. This woman is
34:18
my mother. My mom makes not,
34:20
you know, my Aunt Mary Anne's level of
34:22
cookies, but a good number of cookies every
34:25
year. And she makes them like the week
34:27
after Thanksgiving and freezes them all. And then
34:29
they live in our freezer until the week
34:31
of Christmas when she takes them all out
34:33
and arranges them and gives them to people
34:35
and whatever. Cookies stand up really, really well
34:38
to the freezer, fully baked. And all you
34:40
have to do is like take them out
34:42
and put them on a platter and they
34:44
will come to room temperature on their own
34:46
and they are no worth for it. There's
34:48
a lot of cookie doughs that you can
34:50
freeze as doughs and then bake them off
34:53
if you want sort of like more freshness
34:55
to that. But the fully baked cookie will
34:57
last. My mom does it like she piles
34:59
them on a paper plate and then puts
35:02
the plate in a ziplock bag and then
35:04
piles the ziplock bag paper plates in the
35:06
freezer and, you know,
35:08
divided by type of cookie. But that
35:11
really works. Fully agree. Whether you
35:13
want to do frozen dough, in
35:15
which case, you know, portioning your
35:17
cookies ahead of time is key
35:19
unless it's a slice and bake.
35:21
Like portioning, rolling into balls, freezing
35:23
on a baking sheet and then
35:25
transferring to a ziplock and labeling
35:27
it. That's definitely the play with
35:29
like so many drop style of cookies. I think
35:31
you could make caramels in
35:34
advance. Toffee caramel. They last
35:36
such a long time and you don't
35:38
need to freeze them. From our cookie
35:40
package, I would recommend she make the
35:42
matcha spritz, even the
35:44
chili cheese cookies and Hannah's
35:47
tiramisu cookies. You could totally make them in
35:49
advance, I think, and just freeze it and
35:51
then let them come to room temperature and
35:53
they would taste the same. I think so.
35:55
I think they would even be really good
35:57
cold. Yeah, I think they Hannah's cookies, those
35:59
tiramisu cookies. cookies, another insane transformation
36:01
of snowbell cookies. Yeah. Love
36:03
that. Any final thoughts
36:05
for Callie? I think most of the cookies
36:08
in this package even are giving Pinterest. Yeah,
36:10
I think that she has so many options.
36:12
Perfect. And we love a
36:14
proactive queen. Get on your holiday baking
36:16
now. Correct. Definitely. All right, next up,
36:18
we have a voice memo from Abby.
36:23
Hi, Chris. I have a holiday
36:25
dinner SOS. And
36:27
it has to do with holiday cookies. So
36:30
always try to make a bunch of office cookies. And
36:32
every year, I don't mind that it's
36:34
a whole thing, but every year I try to
36:37
do a molasses cookie, a chocolate
36:39
chip cookie, maybe a frosted cookie.
36:42
And I feel like when I make these cookie
36:44
recipes by themselves, they always taste better. The
36:46
fact that there's so much going on in
36:49
the one cookie bake-a-thon, if you
36:51
will, seems like you lose a
36:53
little quality. And I was thinking there's
36:55
probably a cookie framework that I don't
36:57
know, like make one dough and do
36:59
a bunch of things with it. So
37:01
that's my holiday dinner SOS. Wow,
37:04
OK. I mean, I feel like there's
37:07
kind of like two things in here for me. One
37:09
is just like, what's like a
37:11
category killing holiday cookie to rule
37:14
them all, kind of, right? But
37:16
then also, she's asking
37:18
about what is a cookie framework that
37:20
she doesn't know to the point of
37:22
make one dough and potentially do a
37:25
bunch of things with it. Like,
37:28
to my mind, like one cookie that
37:30
does a bunch of things, I'm always
37:32
a little suspect about. Yeah. Versatility
37:34
is not necessarily what I'm going
37:36
for. I would like a well-angled
37:39
cookie rather than a well-rounded cookie.
37:41
Like, I want it to be
37:43
very much its own sort
37:45
of particular thing. I wouldn't like it
37:47
if we tried to make Rijal's Chili
37:49
Cheese Cookies be baklava. You
37:52
know what I mean? I want it
37:54
to feel distinctive. That said, like a
37:56
plain sugar cookie dough, you could roll
37:58
it out. and
38:01
make a dulce de leche filling, and now
38:03
you have a sandwich cookie. You could make
38:05
a lens or cookie with jam. You could
38:08
fold in chocolate or frost the tops and
38:10
use sprinkles. You could do quite a bit
38:12
with a single sugar cookie dough, but the
38:14
taste is just going to be the same
38:16
sort of across the board. So I think
38:19
that makes sense for if you want sort
38:21
of visual variance, but in terms of one
38:24
spectacular bite, I think you're better served
38:26
finding a very unique cookie
38:29
flavor-wise that can sort of jolt people
38:31
out of the sort of humdrum nature
38:33
of eating the same kind of cookie
38:36
again and again. Right, or if you
38:38
are making a variety, you know, you
38:40
stick to some of the classics and
38:42
then every year you make one unique
38:45
cookie. One new cookie that you haven't
38:47
made before satisfies everything. Somebody wants a
38:49
chocolate chip cookie, it's there, or a
38:52
gingerbread one, it's there, and then you
38:54
push the limits a little bit with
38:56
the new cookie. The wild card. Yeah,
38:59
and that's the beauty of the project, right? I think it
39:01
goes back to cookies, like in my mind at
39:03
least being inherently laborious. There's
39:05
a reason that you're taking on the project
39:07
and not getting the tin of cookies that
39:10
have the same dough, just like they all
39:12
taste the same. So I think that's the
39:14
beauty of the process of it all. Yeah,
39:16
I actually, I'm gonna revise my earlier statement.
39:18
If she is gonna do one thing to
39:20
use multiple ways, I think the molasses cookie
39:23
that you mentioned could live a couple of
39:25
different lives. Like you could roll the ball
39:27
in sugar before you bake it so it
39:29
has that crust, sugar crust outside. You could,
39:31
you know, the softer sort of chewier molasses
39:33
cookies you could make into like a
39:36
whoopie pie style by like
39:38
sandwiching a cream between them. You
39:40
could ice the top of it,
39:42
but that does feel distinctly holiday
39:45
in flavor more than a sugar
39:47
cookie does to me. Correct. Yeah,
39:49
I agree with all this. My
39:51
advice is like don't expect one
39:53
dough to do multiple things necessarily,
39:56
like from like a flavor perspective, like as
39:58
soon as you start adding. different ingredients
40:00
to a dough. Like they can change
40:02
the structure of the dough, they can
40:04
impact performance. But what Kendra is talking
40:07
about with the molasses cookies, using that
40:09
one dough for its own merits, but
40:11
kind of like almost doing like a
40:13
finishing treatment that kind of skews it
40:15
in one direction or another. Like the
40:17
example I was thinking of is like,
40:19
either with your spritz cookie as well,
40:21
Kendra, or like, you know, my zebra
40:23
striped shortbread cookie, swirling in like a
40:26
different color. You can do like, you
40:28
know, multiple tints to the dough using
40:30
food coloring, and then use multiple
40:32
standing sugar colors and types around
40:35
the outside. Just that,
40:37
like letting the each cookie kind of like
40:39
do its own thing, but just doing like
40:41
a final kind of like visual treatment can
40:44
multiply the impact of your cookie,
40:46
even if it's starting from like
40:48
a very simple place with just
40:50
like one dough. Totally. Okay, so
40:53
from Jessica, I've got, I'm a
40:55
competent cook, but I don't really
40:57
bake, but I love holiday cookie
40:59
boxes. I've compromised with myself by
41:02
learning how to make biscotti and nothing
41:04
else. The problem is that each
41:06
year, I like to make three or four kinds.
41:08
And usually I'm trying to create at least one
41:10
new flavor. When I look for recipes to start
41:12
from, they vary dramatically. And since I don't know
41:14
a lot about baking, I can't wrap my head
41:17
around what it means that one recipe calls for
41:19
six eggs and another calls for three eggs plus
41:21
one egg yolk. I know it matters,
41:23
but not how or why. So the problem becomes
41:25
when I try to put new stuff in the
41:28
biscotti, I'm throwing off the delicate balance of dry
41:30
and wet and hard and soft. And
41:32
that isn't always great. Can you help
41:34
me with a base recipe and tips
41:36
about adding things like dried fruit, nuts,
41:38
cocoa powder and extracts. I'm lucky that
41:40
my family will eat them no matter
41:42
what, but that doesn't stop me from
41:44
wanting to quote, get it right. Paging
41:47
Jessie's chef's check. Beep, beep, beep,
41:49
beep, beep, beep, Jessie, Jessie solved
41:51
this problem for you. Almost like
41:54
it was meant to be. It's
41:56
like the do anything biscotti cookie
41:59
recipe. recipe for Epicurious, it's truly exactly
42:01
what you're looking for. I can't believe
42:03
it. We've solved your problem in the
42:05
most perfect way. It's like, how can
42:07
the base be vanilla? How can the
42:09
base be chocolate? Do you want to
42:11
fold in nuts or dried fruit or
42:13
whatever? Do you want to glaze on
42:15
top? Do you want a chocolate dip?
42:17
Lots of different variations built within the
42:19
same base recipe framework so you don't
42:21
have to do what we do all
42:24
the time, which is that crazy math
42:26
to make sense of varying recipes. Correct.
42:28
I want to say it's like any
42:30
Scotty. So cute. Yeah,
42:32
we've seen this before with like
42:34
brownies, etc. When you start throwing
42:36
like cocoa powder around that is
42:39
going to function as a dry
42:41
ingredient almost as though you've added
42:43
flour. And that's going to create
42:45
toughness and hardness and certain elements
42:48
like nuts and dried fruit can
42:50
be interchangeable. But just starting from
42:52
one great base recipe, exactly that
42:54
Jesse recipe was phenomenal. It's like
42:57
not too hard, but not too
42:59
soft. And it seemed incredibly
43:01
easily accommodating of a
43:03
multitude of mix-ins. I
43:09
hope we solved cookies for this year, but
43:12
I guess time will tell right? Any
43:14
final cookie thoughts from anyone? I
43:17
think you should make them. Make
43:21
cookies. Yeah. And don't
43:23
let your past cookie
43:25
hating stop you from participating in
43:27
the cookie festivities. Give it
43:29
a try. Here, here. Well,
43:32
listen, thank you all so much
43:34
for joining us and for all
43:36
of your contributions to this amazing,
43:38
beautiful cookie package. I'm so glad
43:40
we jumped back into cookies wholeheartedly.
43:42
Mouths open this year. And yeah,
43:44
it's really fun to have you
43:46
all on. I'm going to remind
43:48
you next year when you try
43:50
to say we don't need cookies, I'm going to
43:53
play this episode back. I know.
43:55
You're 15% regret. Well, you
43:57
know, there'll be another mountain to climb next
43:59
year. There always is. If
44:30
you enjoyed this episode, please give us
44:33
a rating and review on your
44:35
podcast App of Choice. And
44:37
hit that follow button so you never miss an
44:39
episode. Thanks for
44:41
listening to Dinner S.O.F. I'm
44:43
your host, Chris Morocco. My
44:45
co-host this week are Inez Anziano,
44:48
Rachel Gurdjur, and Kendra Vaculin. Our
44:50
producer is Michelle O'Brien. Jordan
44:53
Bell is our executive producer. Peyton
44:55
Hayes is our associate producer. Cameron
44:57
Sous is our assistant producer. Jake
45:00
Loomis is our studio engineer. Amar
45:02
Lal makes this episode. Next
45:05
week, Navey is in charge of
45:07
Christmas dinner for her husband's family,
45:10
but the number of dietary restrictions
45:12
simply overwhelming. So
45:15
in this family, there is a
45:18
garlic allergy. I
45:20
am celiac. We
45:22
have a dairy-free family member.
45:24
We have a no-pork family
45:27
member. And we have
45:29
a flexitarian who will eat chicken.
45:32
That's mostly it. And
45:35
it's just a lot to accommodate
45:37
for. Thank
45:55
you. you
46:44
I just know that you're a foodie
46:46
who loves to learn, so I'm excited
46:48
to tell you about If This Food
46:51
Could Talk from our friends at APT
46:53
Podcast Studios.
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