My guest this week is the phenomenal Kris Primacio, co-founder and CEO of the International Surf Therapy Organization (ISTO, https://intlsurftherapy.org/) Kris started surfing at 41 ,and in 10 short years metamorphosed her life into a sea-salty dream she never even knew she had. She starts her days frothing in the lineup, then peels off her wetsuit and brings that stoke to programs that heal and uplift marginalized and vulnerable people across the globe. Kris, like many women coming of age before the 2000’s, grew up in a world where women surfers were non-existent, or invisible. This lack of representation goes deeper, however, for women of color. Kris, despite her Hawaiian/Filipino heritage, and surfing literally being in her blood, never imagined herself in the lineup, as she never saw anyone that looked like her on a surfboard. We talk about the extra challenges that people of color have faced with surfing - identity, proximity, economic disadvantages, and cultural judgments. Kris merges passion with purpose by connecting people of all backgrounds to the healing love and power of the ocean. Her story is a study on how to commit, how to show up, and how to live with true aloha. You won’t want to miss Kris’ incredible wisdom, passion, and advice on living, including my new favorite surfism, her advice to always, “Ride the wave, not the expectation.” 

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