Look! look! said Prasenjit. “I’m looking southwards and see a six kilometer high mountain!” As seen from the Shanti Stupa in Leh, the towering summit of Stok Kangri  rises distinctly above the valley, giving its inhabitants a permanent  ever-changing canvas to reflect within and without. We were on an  unplanned detour crossing one mountain range after another; headed  towards Zanskar, an idea which seemed increasingly theoretical…

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