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My great great grandma left the White Earth Reservation in 1915 and our family has never returned. I’m turning 30 and am biking back. Amidst statistical poverty, attacks on Ojibwe culture, and a century of land theft, White Earth, Minnesota is rich in natural beauty and the people carry a truth that they will share if you listen.

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Thanks to the Ojibwe People’s dictionary for providing the Ojibwe chapter titles. You can look up Ojibwe words and pronunciation here: https://ojibwe.lib.umn.edu/​ Thanks to my grandma, Maggie Rousu, Merlin Deegan, Joe Allen, Father Joe and the White Earth community. Thanks to Alex.

Finally, thanks to my family: past, present, and future, for keeping the threads together.