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Tacos and the History of Street Vending

Tacos and the History of Street Vending

Released Thursday, 27th April 2023
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Tacos and the History of Street Vending

Tacos and the History of Street Vending

Tacos and the History of Street Vending

Tacos and the History of Street Vending

Thursday, 27th April 2023
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Episode Transcript

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0:00

Did you know that street vending in Mexico

0:02

has pre Columbian roots and primarily took

0:04

place in market places or

0:06

tiangis. So everything from ceramic

0:09

cookware, cacao, vanilla,

0:11

eggs, clothes, all of it was sold,

0:14

and one of the most popular items

0:16

was tacos.

0:17

In today's episode, we explore the history

0:19

of fucos and street vending. My

0:24

name is Eva Longoria and I am

0:26

My.

0:27

De Gomez Racon and welcome to

0:29

Hungry for History, a

0:32

podcast that explores our past and present

0:34

through food.

0:35

On every episode, we'll talk about the history of

0:37

some of our favorite dishes, ingredients,

0:39

and beverages.

0:40

So make yourself at home.

0:42

Ewen Britchell.

0:48

So they weren't always called tacos.

0:50

I thought fuckos were always called tacos.

0:52

No, they weren't always called tacos. So

0:55

the concept of a taco has existed

0:58

for hundreds, maybe thousands of years,

1:00

but its exact origins are unknown.

1:03

Some say that the mere act of rolling

1:06

food in adrtilla makes

1:08

it a taco, but the word

1:11

bacco is actually relatively

1:14

new.

1:15

So where did the taco originate?

1:16

Like?

1:16

Where does the word come from?

1:18

So, according to food historian Jeffrey

1:21

Pilcher. He wrote a book called Planet Taco,

1:23

a Global History of Mexican Food. He

1:25

suggests that the word facco dates

1:28

to the nineteenth century and it first

1:30

appears in the real Academiespaniola.

1:32

The Official Dictionary of the Spanish language,

1:35

defined as a little like a peg

1:37

or a plug. Another theory

1:39

is that the word taco comes from the naulalco,

1:43

meaning half, because the ingredients

1:45

are put in a taco in the center of a dortilla,

1:47

which is then folded in half.

1:50

That makes more sense to me the no wadal word.

1:52

It could be that glaco I mean that sounds

1:55

I mean claco, sounds like taco,

1:57

and it means half.

1:58

But the other thing is that those those

2:00

little pegs or plugs. Miners

2:03

in Mexico used to put these little

2:05

pegs with dynamite inside

2:08

or with gunpowder inside. They would roll them and

2:10

they would put them in the mines.

2:12

They're basically little sticks of dynamite.

2:15

So those were called tacos. So this

2:17

whole idea, and some of the first you know, written

2:19

recordings of facco were thatcos e minero

2:22

minors tacos, So it was sort

2:24

of like this little bit of dynamite that

2:26

you're eating. So

2:29

so that that's why there are those

2:31

two different theories. But the word itself

2:33

dates to the nineteenth century, so it's not that

2:36

old.

2:37

Yeah, because because there's writings of

2:39

Spanish conquistadores like Bernaldiez

2:41

del Castillo who mentions warm corn

2:44

tortillas on mochte Zuma's

2:46

table. So you know, it was

2:48

discussed and that the tortillas

2:50

were used as sort of a spoon. But that technique

2:53

of using like tortillas

2:55

as a spoon, that's also in like I said, in

2:57

India, where they use the non

2:59

as a spoon. I mean, there's a lot of cultures

3:02

that use a piece of something as

3:04

a spoon, exactly. Exactly.

3:06

Every culture has something, right, and

3:08

every culture has something that you you

3:10

know, every street food, it's sort

3:13

of things that you eat with your hands as

3:15

well. But some can say that a taco,

3:18

you know, that the soul of the taco is

3:20

the corn trtilla or the tortillya.

3:22

But the original tortillya, the original

3:25

taco would have been with corn.

3:27

Yeah. And then so in the early nineteenth

3:29

century, a lot of people

3:31

began migrating to Mexico City, you

3:34

know, for opportunities or region

3:36

bringing their regional cooking skills with them. But every

3:39

region obviously has different foods. In Mexico

3:41

City became a melting pot

3:43

of tacos. And I've experienced this because

3:46

there's a taco a mercado on

3:48

Saturdays near our house in Mexico

3:50

City, and you have Mitua tacos

3:53

from Mitua Kan that goes the Yucatan

3:56

that goes it. Like there's all these different stalls

3:59

and every region is so different.

4:02

That is what's so interesting I feel about Mexico

4:04

City is that that it's such a melting

4:06

pot of cuisines

4:09

from the entire country.

4:11

And this is where I mean you could say that the

4:13

original tacco culture is

4:16

in these markets like the one that you're mentioning.

4:18

You know today one of the most famous

4:21

pre colonial Tiangeese is this marketplace

4:24

of laate Logo that was in you

4:26

know, modern day sort of

4:28

downtown Mexico City. But these danges

4:30

are are all over, like you have one

4:32

by your house in Mexico City. So this

4:35

is this this culture of street

4:37

food, this culture of street food from all

4:39

over the country has existed since

4:42

the nineteenth century.

4:44

D'angi means what is that nawadl as

4:46

well Tiangi.

4:47

Yes, the word Tangeese comes

4:49

from the Nawall word getsli,

4:53

two words from the now ill word Gangetzli, which

4:55

means open air market and the amiki,

4:58

which means to sell or trained.

5:01

So the most important markets

5:03

pre colonial market was the one that's like and

5:07

you could say that they

5:09

are modern day flea markets

5:12

or modern day boigas, modern day you know where

5:14

you people come and sell everything

5:17

from food to clothes to

5:20

cook wear, everything that you could possibly find.

5:22

But that was really the soul

5:25

of Mexico, when everybody would come together

5:27

and buy what they needed. One

5:37

could argue that the Pinata District in downtown

5:40

Los Angeles is a modern day tianges.

5:50

Yeah, I've been there and I love it, and I'm so excited

5:52

because Hungary for History got a chance to talk to one

5:54

of these vendors in the Pinnata

5:56

district. Her name is Mercell Sanchez.

6:00

Numbers Sanchez, so evenlante.

6:03

She is not only a businesswoman, but she's also an

6:05

activist. She's originally

6:07

from the city of Buebla in Mexico.

6:10

And she's been working

6:12

at the Pinatta District for about eighteen years.

6:17

Mendo

6:19

and she sells everything from baby clothes,

6:23

artistsan bags from Puebla. She

6:25

sells Mexican candies, She sells

6:27

hot dogs and chi la las

6:29

mole esquitoes, and she has

6:31

the most amazing faccos dorados.

6:34

She has chicken ones and potato ones.

6:36

I have the tacos Papa Crispy,

6:40

just she's frying them right there with

6:42

his green salsa, like raw

6:45

fresh, bright green salsa and a

6:47

little bit of caeso fresco.

6:49

Oh my god.

6:51

Even this

6:54

topic of street vendors is so relevant

6:56

today because so many food

6:59

venders are getting her arab by

7:01

the cops, by community.

7:07

And one of the main reasons she

7:10

got into activism was because she witnessed

7:12

food vendors getting harassed by the

7:15

cops and she saw their food

7:17

get thrown out, items that they had for

7:19

sale get confiscated.

7:20

Yados,

7:23

Yovia madress Alter.

7:25

She said she even witnessed people getting deported, like

7:27

single mothers crying after having their

7:29

shops destroyed.

7:31

Yeah, it's really really devastating it

7:33

and she was sort of seeing this

7:35

happening around her, seeing it happening,

7:37

you know, to her as well, just being

7:40

harassed for for just trying to make a living.

7:43

So she told us that she started

7:45

asking questions like what what can I do?

7:47

Like what can be done?

7:49

On a who

7:54

you that?

7:54

And a friend of her told her about an organization

7:56

that was trying to help them, and

7:59

that's when she found out about eLAC, which is

8:01

the East LA Community Corporation

8:04

based in Boyle Heights and East LA.

8:06

Yeah like communis poso misikos

8:09

oh.

8:09

Yes, So with the help of others, she started

8:11

organizing and she made a promise to herself.

8:13

She said, I don't care if this takes me twenty years,

8:16

I'm going to do it. Her husband even told

8:18

her, like, who's going to listen? You're just wasting

8:20

your time, and she told him, at least I'll have

8:22

my head held high knowing

8:25

I did something because people don't know how

8:27

much we are suffering.

8:29

Latona.

8:29

Sure, it's really incredible, and you

8:31

know, her hard work paid off. It

8:34

took ten years. It didn't take the twenty years,

8:36

but it took ten years, and in twenty

8:38

eighteen, the state passed a law

8:41

legalizing sidewalk theings.

8:42

Well because of her hard work got Bravo

8:45

to her.

8:45

Yes, she's incredible. Thanks to her hard

8:48

work and she was organizing

8:50

people. When she went to that first meeting at

8:53

eLAC there were seven street vendors, and

8:55

she realized, there's no way that we're going to make a

8:57

dent if it's just seven of us. So

8:59

she was going from vendor to vendor

9:02

to vendor, spreading the word. It's

9:04

like you do you know when it's time to vote.

9:06

She was going to every until she had

9:08

hundreds of vendors. They went to Sacramento

9:11

and I mean they got these lost past.

9:13

Wow. Well, if y'all are in Los Angeles,

9:15

make sure to check her out in

9:17

the Pignata district. It's called Sammy's

9:19

e Lomas. Stop by

9:22

and try that.

9:32

Don't go anywhere. We get into the history of street

9:34

vending in LA and the modern day struggle

9:36

this community is facing.

9:45

So winded street vending in Los

9:47

Angeles begin it must have been I mean, this

9:50

must have been so long ago.

9:52

It was so the city of La was

9:54

established in seventeen eighty one, so

9:58

long ago, but not that long

10:00

ago. But so Mexico lost

10:03

California in eighteen forty

10:05

eight in the Mexican American War.

10:06

The entire Southwest California, Arizona,

10:09

New Mexico, Nevada utahs.

10:11

Yea six yes, yeah.

10:14

So by eighteen fifty, California

10:17

was part of the US, but La was

10:19

only seventy years old at the time,

10:22

so it went from being this little Mexican

10:24

pueblo to a

10:26

city with an Anglo majority

10:29

in very short period of

10:31

time. In his book Los

10:34

Angeles Street Food History From Tamaledos

10:36

to Taco Trucks by Farley Elliott,

10:38

he says that the first signs of street food in La

10:41

emerge after eighteen seventy six,

10:44

when the Southern Pacific Railroad linked

10:46

the city to the rest of the US and the city

10:48

really began to come to life.

10:51

So we start seeing them male vendors,

10:54

so not necessarily bacco vendors,

10:57

but we start seeing that male vendors selling from

10:59

cart from the little wagons in

11:02

what is now downtown Los

11:04

Angeles.

11:05

Well, and it's so interesting like at

11:07

this time, like by the eighteen nineties,

11:10

there was already the city government was already

11:12

trying to sanction or

11:14

severely limit and curb theamal

11:17

vendors, Chinese food vendors.

11:19

They were really restricting them from

11:21

being able to sell or banishing it all together,

11:24

which obviously was reflected a

11:26

larger issue of discrimination towards Mexican,

11:28

Mexican, American, Chinese any other, right,

11:31

any other. So there was a lot of early

11:33

efforts to regulate street food, and

11:35

by the turn of the century, the city forced the

11:38

model cart owners to pay for operating

11:40

licenses as a way to like

11:42

weed them out. And this

11:44

only helped destigmatize the market

11:47

for tamalies, but it didn't slow it down, Like

11:49

Mexican food was just too popular. They

11:51

were like, people wanted their tamals.

11:53

Yeah, people wanted their tamalis. People wanted

11:55

the really good food. It was just, you.

11:58

Know, it was it was all about discriminating

12:01

them. So in nineteen

12:03

ten, these segregation laws

12:05

between white and non white vendors

12:07

limited the presence of Mexican and Chinese vendors

12:10

in downtown LA. So

12:12

they continue to thrive outside

12:15

of the downtown area. But over

12:17

time we start seeing these you know, sit down

12:19

restaurants, and these sit down restaurants would

12:22

further marginalized street

12:24

vendors. But with each new wave

12:26

of immigrants came a new wave

12:29

of street vending, you know, rebirth

12:32

of street vends.

12:32

Well, specifically the wave of Mexicans,

12:35

you know, by the nineteen twenties that migrated

12:37

to the US during the years, obviously

12:40

the Mexican Revolution having a big part

12:42

of that, but the tradition of like street

12:44

bending is one that travels with them,

12:46

and so we start seeing more

12:48

than theamalies by this time, we start seeing

12:51

the buckles, and you know that they were all

12:53

the rage in La, but like you see a lot

12:55

of vendors. I the first time I

12:57

moved to La. My greatest

13:00

memories Olvetta Street. I love

13:02

Olivetta Street. I went to a festival down

13:04

there and I was like, what is this place? And

13:07

Olvetta Street is one of the oldest streets,

13:11

opened in nineteen thirty and there's

13:14

so much history down there

13:17

to who could own the stalls.

13:19

And if you look at Olvetta Street,

13:22

you'll see it's an alley and

13:24

the storefronts are on the other side. And

13:26

what happened was Mexicans weren't allowed

13:29

to own a storefront in the nineteen thirties,

13:31

so they could sell in the back in the

13:33

alley, but they couldn't have a storefront,

13:35

and the alley became more popular than

13:38

the storefront. And that's how old Vetta

13:40

Street became an

13:42

icon and really a heritage

13:45

site of Los Angeles. It's protected,

13:47

it's celebrated now. So

13:50

it's a very I love Oletta Street. If you guys

13:53

have a chance, go check it out.

13:54

It's a very cool, very very cool

13:57

place. I love it too. In

14:01

her book, in the book Food, Health and Culture

14:03

in Latino, Los Angeles by professor

14:06

of LATINX Food Studies Sarah Portnoy,

14:09

she says that in the mid nineteen thirties,

14:11

Los Angeles band vending on sidewalks

14:14

downtown and then in major business districts,

14:17

and she goes on to say that these actions

14:20

restricted sidewalk activity and

14:22

made sidewalk vending more challenging.

14:25

During the course of the twentieth century, then La

14:27

became a car city. Pedestrians

14:30

and vendors were pushed off the sidewalks,

14:33

and the streets lost this former

14:36

vibrancy and commerce.

14:38

So this c LA's

14:40

a driving city. Like we're

14:43

not New York, We're not in York. No,

14:45

it's not a pedestrian city at all. And it's so

14:48

sad.

14:49

And so this hostility towards street

14:51

vendors grew and persisted

14:54

for decades.

14:56

Yeah, well, you know, it's so funny because you know, if

14:58

you have ever flown into lax there's

15:00

a Tom Bradley terminal and

15:02

it's the international terminal. And I've

15:05

always like, oh, why is the name Tom Bradley, Like I didn't

15:07

really understand why they were like, no, he was

15:09

a really good mayor and in the seventies,

15:12

the La City Council voted to

15:14

ban sidewalk vending throughout

15:17

the city. But it was Tom Bradley who was the

15:19

mayor that vetoed the ordinance

15:22

because he knew it would affect poor people and

15:24

he thought it was really important to encourage

15:26

creating small businesses and

15:29

you know, giving poor people some economic

15:31

mobility. I mean. Despite

15:33

this, sidewalk vending was officially made

15:35

illegal in nineteen eighty and at

15:37

the time, you know, street food was banned. But

15:40

then there was a spike in migration and a demand

15:42

for this cultural food again

15:45

by this wave of new immigrants, and so a

15:47

lot of times vendors were seen as criminals

15:49

and a lot were arrested and beaten and served

15:52

jail time. The ban basically

15:55

turned vending into this political issue,

15:57

and it motivated street vendors to

15:59

organize himself, and so a

16:01

lot of I mean, I think a lot of organizations

16:03

were formed. But in

16:06

nineteen eighty seven they began meeting

16:08

and they established the Association

16:11

of Street Vendors AVA A Soires

16:14

Ambulantes. It turned into a political issue

16:16

because street vending really bumps up against

16:19

immigration policies, police harassment,

16:21

human rights issues, and so in

16:24

nineteen ninety four, the Special

16:26

Sidewalk Vending District Ordinance

16:30

was enacted to allow selling

16:32

in eight areas

16:34

of Los Angeles as part of this like pilot

16:37

program. Even though they

16:39

did this, there were still like continuous harassment

16:42

by the LAPD, and you

16:44

know, so the vendors continued to protest,

16:46

and you know, a lot of this still continues

16:49

today.

16:50

This pilot program was in the nineties. Right

16:52

in between twenty ten and

16:54

twenty nineteen, police arrested over

16:56

forty three thousand people for

16:59

legal sidewalk But

17:01

there's an estimated ten to twelve

17:03

thousand street food vendors in

17:05

LA selling everything from bacon wrap

17:07

hot dogs, take seti yas to thut

17:09

galls fruit all over

17:12

Los Angeles, you know, and you wonder, like

17:14

why do they continue to do this despite

17:17

risking fines, police harassment,

17:19

even imprisonment. Most of them are documented

17:22

and have very few employment

17:25

alternatives, and they need to provide

17:27

for their family in street vending offers

17:29

them this economic

17:32

mobility. I mean, they are these incredible

17:35

entrepreneurs. I mean, they do so

17:37

much.

17:37

I mean, and street vending is technically legal

17:40

in Los Angeles now, but all the vendors

17:43

say the permit is so

17:45

out of reach because it's either too expensive,

17:48

you know, the process to get one

17:50

is super deterearing from

17:52

getting one, and so they still

17:55

have a lot of a lot of challenges

17:57

and I think, you know, operating

18:00

without a permit is

18:02

sometimes the only option because

18:05

they have to make a living.

18:06

LA City Council approved a measure to decriminalize

18:09

street vending, So that was twenty eighteen,

18:11

and this was with the Safe Sidewalk

18:13

Vending Act called SB ninety

18:16

six. And then in twenty

18:18

twenty two, s B nine

18:20

seventy two was passed, and

18:22

this attempted, you know, to

18:25

facilitate greater access to food vendors.

18:27

But like you said, some

18:29

of these permits are just impossible.

18:44

Hungary. First, we got a chance to talk to the executive

18:46

Director of Inclusion Action, Rudy

18:48

Aspinosa, to talk to us about what

18:50

his organization is doing to support the street

18:53

vendor movement.

18:59

Tell us who you are and

19:01

how your organization helps support

19:04

the street vendor movement in Los Angeles.

19:07

Sure, my name is Rudy. I

19:09

serve as the executive director of Inclusive Action

19:12

for the city. Inclusive Action

19:14

is an economic justice organization that

19:16

really focuses on getting

19:19

capital into the hands of people that haven't

19:21

had it before. We're a certified

19:24

financial institution. We're a community development

19:26

financial institution. So a big piece of the

19:28

work that we do is we provide micro loans and business

19:30

coaching to entrepreneurs that include street

19:32

vendors but also breaking mortar businesses. And

19:34

we also have a division to focus on policy

19:37

advocacy, and

19:38

we prioritize that because

19:41

we know to reach economic justice, we have

19:43

to address the systems that have caused

19:46

income inequality in our city and in our country,

19:49

and so as part of that advocacy

19:51

work, one of the campaigns we've worked on over the

19:53

last decade is the effort

19:55

to leadalized stream vending. We're one

19:57

of the co founders of the La Street Vendor campaign

20:00

in the most recent California Street Vendor

20:02

campaign.

20:03

What is happening right now within the

20:05

street vendors or among the street vendors

20:07

that you think people should be most

20:09

aware of.

20:10

I think that people should know that

20:13

street vendors have been struggling for

20:15

many, many years, decades even to

20:17

be included formally in

20:19

our economy. This has been even beyond

20:22

our work. There's been many people in other generations

20:24

that have worked on trying to legalize street ending in

20:27

Los Angeles. And what I want people to know

20:29

is that there's a history here that's

20:31

beyond many of us, and

20:33

I want folks to know that in the last few

20:35

years that there have been great

20:37

strides forward due to the work

20:39

of the coalition and street vendor leaders

20:42

in our city. Starting

20:45

in twenty sixteen, we began to

20:47

pass policies in Los Angeles and in

20:49

California that have created

20:51

pathways for street vendors to finally get

20:53

permits. In twenty eighteen,

20:56

Senate Bill nine forty six pass that was championed

20:58

by then Senator Ricarolata, decriminalized

21:00

sidewalk meaning throughout the state of California

21:03

and ask cities to create systems

21:05

for sidewalk vendors. And in this past

21:07

year, we passed Senate BIL nineteen seventy two with Center

21:10

Arena Gonzalez, they change

21:12

the retail food Code to support

21:14

street food vendors that we're having a hard

21:16

time getting public health permits. So people

21:18

should know that there's these new laws in place that

21:22

the entire state of California is getting adjusted

21:24

to, and so folks should

21:26

be optimistic, but we also should

21:28

be really vigilant because just because

21:30

we pass this laws doesn't mean that everything's

21:33

amazing now. Now our focus is

21:35

really about making sure these laws are implemented

21:37

properly. And so we just

21:39

have this big passage this past year for street

21:41

food vendors, but the county health

21:43

departments throughout the state of California and cities

21:46

have to learn what this law is about and how

21:48

to implement it properly. And so that's the work.

21:50

The work continues on for all advocates,

21:53

is to make sure that we're holding

21:55

our cities accountable to these

21:57

new regulations.

22:07

So what can one do to help you?

22:09

You're hosting a podcast, and I think we need

22:12

people like you that are elevating stories. We

22:14

need people that are designers that are thinking differently

22:17

about how we design our cities and how do we design

22:19

virtual environments for people

22:22

to tell stories. We need activists, we need

22:24

community organizers, we need lawmakers.

22:26

So my ask to friends that say that

22:28

they want to get involved is to consider what is

22:30

your gift and what's your skill and

22:33

how can you contribute that skill

22:35

to a coalition. And so once

22:37

you identify how you want to help, I

22:40

would say, get plugged in. There's a

22:42

lot of amazing activists out here in organizations

22:44

that are doing really great work. If

22:46

you're interested in microfinance, you have inclusive

22:49

Action. If you're interested in community organizing,

22:51

you have organizations like Community Power Collective

22:53

and Cheat Lab that are focused on immigr rights.

22:56

If you're a lawyer, we work

22:58

with an amazing team of public Health so to provide

23:00

free legal services to street vendors and other businesses.

23:03

And so there's there's so many ways to get plugged

23:05

in. And so what I tell people is

23:08

like find your skill and then think

23:10

about who are to try

23:12

to learn about the organizations that are already doing

23:14

work and just you know, you

23:16

know, get get involved with them. They need your.

23:17

Help buying from them as well,

23:20

just on that scale. But

23:22

then also and.

23:23

Tip them and tip them, yeah, totally and

23:26

tip them, and I think, you

23:28

know, the one third thing

23:30

that I want to tell folks that are listening

23:32

is the role of our lawmakers. Our

23:35

lawmakers are dealing with the variety of priorities

23:37

and maybe in competing priorities. Here in LA we

23:39

have a huge housing crisis, for example, and homelessness

23:42

is a huge priority for all of us, or it should be. And

23:45

I think that if somebody cares about street

23:47

vendors or small businesses or food entrepreneurs,

23:50

we have to make sure those lawmakers hear from us,

23:53

and they often probably they

23:55

probably don't. So the

23:57

more that any constituent

23:59

call their local city council

24:02

member or their state senator their assembly and says,

24:04

hey, this is where I live. You

24:06

represent me. I'm really concerned about

24:08

the street vendor on the corner here, and

24:10

I want to make sure that they have what they

24:12

need. What are you doing about that? Once

24:14

we ask questions to our elected leaders, it

24:17

plans to seed in their mind that they need to work

24:19

on that. And unfortunately,

24:21

in the early days of the campaign, when

24:24

we were asking leaders to step up,

24:26

they would say, nobody's complaining about

24:28

this, so why should I prioritize this.

24:31

Nobody's saying anything about street vendors. And

24:34

so the more we call and

24:36

engage, the better. There's a lot of amazing

24:38

folks on social media now that are showing telling

24:41

stories or covering the harassment

24:43

the vendors are facing. Those are all things that contribute

24:45

to lawmakers paying attention.

24:56

If there was one word to describe

24:59

the people that were a street vendors, what

25:01

would that.

25:01

Word to be. I'm

25:03

sorry, I'm kind of pausing because I'm a little bit I'm

25:06

a little sort of moved

25:08

by the question. I'm thinking

25:10

about an entrepreneur that I just got a Slack

25:12

conment for my colleague. My colleague about

25:17

my word is visionary.

25:19

And the comment that I got

25:22

in our organizational chat is one of our

25:24

borrowers who had a

25:26

mobile was a mobile vendor. They

25:29

came to us years ago and they

25:31

were like barely breaking even.

25:33

With their business, and

25:36

they applied for a loan

25:39

and they wanted to basically buy

25:41

out the loan that they had on their little hitch truck,

25:43

on a little trailer that was connected to the pickup

25:45

truck.

25:46

And they were, you know, trying to figure it out. They're

25:48

like, we work hard, and like I were cooking

25:50

for people and I'm just not making it work. And so

25:53

I just got a note of like, how well they're

25:56

doing now. It's like three or four years later

25:58

and they sold that that mobile facility,

26:01

and I think that they're opening up a brick and mortar now

26:03

and it's like they're doing well.

26:07

And I think the entrepreneurs

26:09

in our city, in our communities

26:11

are visionary people that

26:14

in the face of so many obstacles for their family,

26:17

they're saying, I'm not going to give up. I'm

26:19

still going to get out here. I'm going to be on the public right away

26:21

on the sidewalk. That's scary to put yourself

26:23

out there, think about the vulnerability that's required.

26:26

And they're saying, I'm going to continue to struggle

26:29

because I see I envision something

26:31

better, and man,

26:34

how can we not support them?

26:35

You know?

26:36

Is what I think. So visionary is

26:38

my word for them.

26:39

That is beautiful. Thank you so much, Rudy.

26:48

Don't go anywhere, hungry for history will be

26:50

right back. So

27:04

I think this is a dumb question. When did tacos

27:06

become popular in LA because I feel

27:08

like in the founding of LA

27:10

it must be in the constitution.

27:12

Now well by the

27:15

thirties, the tacos were

27:17

you know, it's just the wave of immigrants

27:19

from Mexico that we're bringing their

27:22

foods with them. And by the nineteen thirties

27:24

that goes, we're super popular in

27:26

Los Angeles, from trucks

27:28

to sidewalk set up.

27:30

And it's funny, yeah, it's funny that you say trucks

27:32

because you know, the taco truck is like the famous

27:34

thing. Actually, food trucks in general were

27:36

birthed out of street vendors, right,

27:39

and so you gourmet these

27:41

gourmet food

27:44

trucks now and it's

27:46

almost a bit of a gentrification, right

27:49

of any migrant food

27:51

because all most of the street vendors

27:54

is immigrant food. And

27:56

now you have, you know, these

27:59

very popular food trucks and food truck

28:01

festivals, right, like I mean, and these

28:03

these trucks are like decked out and

28:06

for some reason that's okay, right,

28:08

that's accepted, that's supplotted

28:11

and embraced. But you know, if

28:13

you look at sidewalk setups, it's like.

28:16

Yeah, they don't have the trucks don't have

28:18

the stigma, you know, because they

28:20

were the original the

28:23

Loncetas. They were the

28:25

damal vendor from the turn of the century

28:28

became the loncera and

28:31

you would see them parked. You

28:34

still see them sort of when they were construction

28:36

workers, so they're parked outside.

28:38

You still have the.

28:39

Ones that are not all you know, made

28:41

for hipsters, that are for Mexican

28:43

Mexicican American construction workers,

28:46

so you still see them, but now

28:49

there are so many. I think it started

28:52

I would say, what like around two thousand and seven

28:54

or eight with the with the Kim

28:57

Chica set, yeahs Roy Troy, the

28:59

Koji truck. And then with

29:01

the rise of social media, places

29:04

like East Los Angeles starting

29:06

to become gentrified, like you said so,

29:09

and then with social media you have the truck

29:11

saying I'm going to be here, I'm going to be there. So it

29:13

kind of went hand in hand. And now the

29:15

food trucks they still face a struggle,

29:18

not as much as the street vendors,

29:20

but now they're they're super hip. I mean the

29:22

Mariscos Carliscos, which is one

29:24

of my favorite trucks in the city, food

29:27

trucks in the city. The late Jonathan

29:29

Gold featured them in the list of one hundred and one

29:31

best restaurants in La It's a truck and

29:33

it's not a hipster truck. It's just a really

29:35

good truck. They have the best trimp tacos in the city.

29:38

What's your favorite kind of taco?

29:40

Oh my, I love tacosaso.

29:43

I think I have me too,

29:45

I do. Oh God, I'm a big

29:47

Tacos al Pastor fan. You know why

29:49

because they're the most similar to

29:52

Mexico, like the

29:55

Mexico City tacos that I have, Tacos

29:58

Pastor. I can have them in East and

30:00

it's pretty much the same.

30:02

Mmm.

30:03

They're consistent across borders.

30:05

They're so good.

30:06

There's a truck called There are two

30:08

places where I get my tacos at Pasta Fixed

30:11

in La Leos Tacos they're.

30:13

All over yeah yeah.

30:14

And then there's one I don't know what it's called, but

30:16

it's across the street from Lows on Pico

30:18

Boulevard with just

30:20

the pineapple and lime juice and some radish.

30:24

That's my Yeah. I like for taco. I

30:27

like the pineapple, onions and cilantro. So

30:29

what is for you? What's the soul of the taco, the

30:31

tortilla or the filling? What

30:34

I'm the it's the filling, the tortilla

30:37

is the same.

30:38

No, because if you don't have a really good tortilla,

30:40

then like if you take you pick

30:42

up the taco and the falls apart.

30:44

You're right, You're right, You're right, You're right. Yeah,

30:46

you've ruined the experience, right Yeah.

30:49

Yeah. Also, also you're right because

30:51

my chicken tacos pepped loves because

30:54

mine are America American eyed, because

30:57

mine's not the taco bell taco, but

31:00

it's not the just heat

31:02

the tortilla, the corn tortilla up, I

31:04

fry the corn tortilla. So it's I had

31:07

to be taco when I wasn't.

31:09

When I met you in Spain, you made them. They were

31:11

incredible.

31:12

Yeah, it's crying of the tortilla.

31:15

So you're right. I actually have to agree

31:17

with you. Tortillas pretty I think it's fifty to fifty then,

31:19

but I actually think it's I think it's thirty three thirty

31:21

three thirty three because this alsa makes a big difference.

31:24

To the sasa makes a huge difference,

31:26

and the fresh lime juice. I feel like I can't

31:28

have a taco without squeezing some lime on it.

31:30

Yeah. Well, if anybody has

31:33

seen my searching for Mexico, Mexico

31:35

City episode. We did a taco

31:37

tour in Mexico City and

31:40

they're so like you said, Mexico City is really

31:42

the melting pot of all the tacos of the country.

31:45

And I went with the taco blogger

31:48

and it was like she knew exactly

31:50

where to go. The guy that's there that

31:52

makes the the sweating tacos, what.

31:54

Is it.

31:56

Cansta? Yes, yes,

31:59

which was I've never had

32:01

one, never had one either,

32:04

And he had three different ones and they

32:06

were hot and warm, and

32:08

he'd been there all morning and he brought

32:11

this all this stuff from his house and I'm like, surely

32:13

this is going to be like eh, because you

32:15

know it's two hours old or whatever. Nope,

32:18

it was. They were still warm, warm and

32:20

delicious, and he had these different salsas

32:22

and oh, man, do you know that.

32:25

One of the earliest photographs of a taco

32:27

from ne Thean nineteen twenties is a woman

32:30

selling those tacos a canasta.

32:32

So basically, they put the tacos

32:35

in a basket and then cover it

32:37

with like some sort of plastic and they

32:39

know they with towels and they

32:41

don't get soggy.

32:43

They're super soft. And that's why it's

32:45

a good tortilla because it doesn't fall apart. We

32:52

hope you guys enjoyed this episode. I

32:54

know I did. I'm actually super hungry now. I think

32:57

I'm going to make myself some chicken tacos.

32:59

Thank you, Thank you all for listening.

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