A sparkling morning, camouflaged among the few visitors, walking through the statues of Bonaria Cemetery. It's the cemetery of a city that seems to have no memory, except in its surnames on the tombstones, still today matching the name tags at

23. Monte Urpinu (waiting for flamingos)

May 31st, 2022 1m 33s

At the top of Monte Urpinu I am enjoying the evening light on the pond and the beach, with the sky changing shades of reds. They ensured me that huge flocks of flamingos will fly over here, crossing to reach the ponds on the other part of town.

22. St. Domenico’s Cloister (with Mr. Ortu)

May 30th, 2022 1m 31s

Carl the 5th and the Americans are also here, in the cloister of at St. Domenico, that the Spanish kings built in 1500 and the Americans bombed to the ground during the war. The atmosphere is relaxing, the traffic noise doesn’t reach the inside

21. Renzo Piano’s building (bent under the mistral)

May 29th, 2022 1m 33s

In front of the Industrial Credit building there should’ve been a large sail, instead of this ugly marquee and this deserted square. The world-famous architect Renzo Piano, who then disowned his own project, also had to bend to the force of the

20. Basilica of Saint Saturnino (summoned by the officer)

May 28th, 2022 1m 7s

The Church of Saint Saturnino is open today. This building makes me feel sorry for it, destroyed, rebuilt, vandalised for fifteen centuries, with the last wound inflicted by some window fanatic who wanted to place glass panes in the archways. T

19. EXMA (Grizzled Ben)

May 27th, 2022 1m 21s

The EXMA used to be the town’s slaughterhouse, with blood-coloured walls and bull heads mounted in stone to decorate the spaces between the arches, with perfectly round windows that always marked my nightmares, ever since I was a child. In the

18. Park of Music (dreaming with Gualtiero)

May 26th, 2022 1m 12s

Water, trees, and architectural frames worthy of a modern metropolis. The Park of Music projects you into an alternate world, peaceful, soothing. Philippine families linger around on one side, groups of teenagers sunbathe on the vast lawns. I h

17. Mercato San Benedetto (in the joyful belly of the city)

May 25th, 2022 1m 33s

No matter where you go, the central market of any city tells you a lot about the character of its people, it’s the joyful belly of the city. Here, at the San Benedetto market, locals take their guests to show off, and politicians come here to m

16. Market of Via Quirra (where you won’t see tourists)

May 24th, 2022 1m 9s

Gleaming sunlight and gusts of wind enveloped the piazza, populated by burnt, tormented visages. It’s the market of Via Quirra: irresistible bargains on the outside, on the inside, the noisy and gentle people of this city who loves food above a

15. Piazza San Michele (with two punks)

May 23rd, 2022 1m 4s

Piazza San Michele. Locals skirt it, but they don’t walk inside, it's scary crossing this white marble pond from which the pointed shape of the church emerges. A church that was designed when people believed that religion should be understandab

14. Castello di San Michele (from where I finally see you)

May 22nd, 2022 1m 10s

This joke of a castle was supposed to protect Santa Igia, the city on the pond that dreamed of becoming the capital of a liberated Sardinia. The city was invaded from the sea and levelled to the ground instead. Right ambition, bad timing. A les

13. Piazza d’Armi (dr. Morelli's offer)

May 21st, 2022 1m 4s

Dr. Morelli awaits me in the shade of the pine trees of a garden, facing the round square, Piazza d’Armi, dominated by the old prison from which they say no one ever managed to escape. He is one of the potential buyers of the codes, he represen

12. Public Gardens (why humiliate me?)

May 20th, 2022 1m 23s

XIX Century landscape here at the Public Gardens, with shadow of big trees, aged statues, children screaming, moms talking about doctors, retirees reading the newspaper. I'm here to look in our mailbox, a crack in a rock hidden by a cobblestone

11. Bastione Saint Remy (from where Issa is not coming back)

May 19th, 2022 1m 28s

Of course, the elevator to descend from the high part of the city still doesn’t work. Issa, instead, had the bad luck to fall, crushing, thrown down head first, like the Spanish invaders used to do with the locals from Cagliari, when they were

10. Cathedral (fake news)

May 18th, 2022 1m 22s

t was you who told me the story of the Beauty of Sanluri, who in 1410 made love to Martino the Younger, invader of Sardinia already weak with malaria, exhausting him to death. Here, in the Cathedral of Cagliari in front of his fake baroque maus

9. Vico 3 dei Genovesi (why did you force me back?)

May 17th, 2022 1m 31s

This is where I grew up, Vico III Genovesi a narrow lane in the part of town they call Castello, the castle. Here I played and suffered amidst peeling walls and dark stairwells, with the constant smell of boiled cabbage, before I could escape t

8. Bastione Santa Croce (with the tattooed woman)

May 16th, 2022 1m 35s

I meet her at the Bastione Santa Croce. She is chubby, full of tattoos, plump lips and bright eyes. She is showering me with old design ideas, but you can tell, she is suffering, she is a working poor, works a lot, doesn’t get much money. We ar

7. San Pancrazio Tower (like tourists on a stopover in a cruise)

May 15th, 2022 1m 22s

The white Tower, St Pancrazio, the tallest in the city. We climbed it together, mixed with tourists from the cruise ships, to forget ourselves amidst the sky, in the wind, our shoulders turned to the sea at the horizon. And you made the list of

6. Inside the old anatomical theater

May 14th, 2022 1m 9s

The obsequious janitor still recognizes me, and lets me in, but tells me to hurry up. Here in the old anatomical theater, where they used to dissect bodies, here I saw you play your last comedy, on behalf of the Firm, surrounded by young naive

5. Via S. Giorgio (inside the old hospital)

May 13th, 2022 1m 22s

You told me going back to Cagliari would be good for me. You sent me to encourage a research team on cyber security. Well, your plan was for me to steal any good idea, for the Company. I liked you for your hands-on attitude, and because you wer

4. Via Ospedale (inside the Jesuits' church)

May 12th, 2022 1m 32s

Here they are, two columns, two of the many obelisks that mark this city. But these are the only uneven ones: one taller than the other, and I know to find them in front of the church of San Michele. This church is the glory of the Jesuits, alw

3. Piazza Yenne (under the butcher king)

May 11th, 2022 1m 51s

I am following the traces of a loved one, someone who is probably hiding here, hiding even from me. Two newsagent kiosks, under the statue of one of those king soldiers, Carlo Felice, look at him, dressed like a Roman general. They somehow perv

2. City Townhall (with the loafers, Via Roma's colonnade)

May 10th, 2022 1m 24s

City Townhall, a shining white building that stands out against the intense blue of the sky. Pretend gothic, pretentious just like the rulers of this city, king soldiers who no one remembers with joy. Students and loafers hang out under the col

1. Piazza Deffenu (where it all starts)

May 9th, 2022 1m 52s

Unfamiliar sensation in a familiar city. All what the intel says is that you left a sign not long ago. And my job is to locate it. During the training I have learnt that I have to collect every evidence, and that often is a piece of insignifica

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