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Sounds of the city: Tel Aviv

Sounds of the city: Tel Aviv

Released Wednesday, 11th January 2023
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Sounds of the city: Tel Aviv

Sounds of the city: Tel Aviv

Sounds of the city: Tel Aviv

Sounds of the city: Tel Aviv

Wednesday, 11th January 2023
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1:38

There's a totally blind first timer

1:41

in Israel. It's inevitable that

1:43

a lot of my impressions are based

1:45

on the words I hear and

1:47

the news headlines I read Part

1:49

of the fascination is visiting the

1:52

land with place names that go back

1:54

to biblical times, Galilee,

1:56

Samaria, Beth VM. But

1:59

inevitably, I've grown up

2:01

hearing about tensions, terrorism.

2:04

And the impression of a country fiercely

2:06

protecting its relatively recent

2:09

national status. So

2:11

arriving in Tel Aviv, what

2:13

I'm not expecting is

2:15

a pretty relaxed city.

2:17

But with very modern problems, gridlocked

2:20

traffic, high prices, and

2:22

key this for a blind traveler, crowded

2:25

pavement. It's on one of these

2:27

that I meet my blind guide

2:30

for my

2:30

visit. Heather, Heather.

2:32

Lovely to meet you. I'm Peter.

2:34

Nice to meet you. Make guide dogs. Hello,

2:36

dog. Skyler.

2:38

Hello, Skyler. Okay, Doug.

2:40

There's so much building going on here.

2:42

Yeah. There's a ton of construction. Jaffa

2:45

is an ancient city.

2:47

Okay? Truly ancient it's

2:50

in the bible

2:51

if you know the story of Jona and the whale.

2:53

Oh, indeed. Yeah.

2:54

This day. So left from the

2:57

Port of Java.

2:58

That's how old it is. That's that's how old it

3:00

is. It's in the bible. And the

3:02

city itself, you know, has

3:04

of course gone through many, many phases

3:06

of building, but the current

3:09

city is about

3:13

hundred and

3:15

fifty years old. So before

3:17

the before the State of Israel, and

3:19

then you have, you

3:21

know, newer construction on top

3:23

of older construction. Buses

3:28

around would be Eric

3:30

Clapton. I think we can hear there in the background.

3:34

You're gonna walk up a little bit and

3:36

gonna take you to where the

3:39

Jaffa clock tower is.

3:43

Heather said it was busy. It's

3:46

it's quite wait for a blind person moving

3:48

on, you know, we're we're shuffling

3:50

at about a pace every two or

3:52

three seconds and just passing

3:54

somebody

3:55

You seem to be quite bulky, really.

3:57

And I got that. Skyler, what was

3:59

that? I enjoy walking with

4:02

the guide dog because she tends to

4:04

direct me so that I don't bang into things.

4:09

But it is kind of crowded. This

4:13

neighborhood, particularly, which had

4:16

been really terribly run

4:18

down, is now the happening

4:20

spot.

4:22

But will people complain that it's

4:24

losing its character? It it

4:25

has lost its character. But

4:28

but has a totally new new

4:30

vibe of, like, young families and

4:33

sheepshocks and things like that.

4:37

So you can hear this music here. Yeah.

4:40

This is a very traditional

4:43

sephartic type music.

4:45

This is I I think a restaurant

4:49

that serves traditional orientaled

4:51

food. So they're getting ready for

4:53

the for the sabbath encouraging people to

4:55

come by playing their music very loud.

5:00

Tel Aviv is a great city. It's easy

5:02

to get around in.

5:04

It's walkable. It's

5:06

a great city to graze children

5:09

in. And I mean

5:11

that that in the way that people

5:14

people look out for one another even

5:16

though I'm in a major metrop as

5:19

I can still have a situation

5:21

where my kid lost

5:23

his shoe at the playground and

5:26

still someone managed to find a

5:28

shoe when someone else managed to figure

5:30

out that it belonged to my kid and someone

5:32

else managed to send my phone number to

5:34

someone else to someone else to someone else and

5:36

lo and behold, the shoe found its way back to

5:38

me. So

5:42

that's that's the good side. The bad side

5:44

is that people are to nosy

5:46

and and won't hesitate

5:48

to tell you that your hair

5:50

needs to be dyed or that that color

5:52

isn't becoming of you. But

5:54

they do but they do care.

5:56

Mhmm. They mean it in the in the nicest

5:58

of

5:58

ways. There's a third thing that you haven't

6:01

mentioned which I'm interested in

6:03

because, I mean, people not living

6:05

here, the news headlines they

6:07

hear about Tel Aviv or

6:09

about tensions, about,

6:11

you know, Israeli Arab

6:14

relationships. Well,

6:17

it certainly is something

6:19

that happens because there

6:23

are in fact terrorist events

6:25

that happen here in Israel.

6:28

And it is, unfortunately,

6:30

a fact of life But, I

6:32

mean, I I'm a very liberal

6:34

person, and I'm very much involved in

6:37

liberal, left

6:39

leaning politics narrowed Israeli

6:41

Spheres as well as some

6:44

Palestinian leaning Spheres.

6:46

So I have a

6:49

lot of involvement in these

6:51

issues that tends

6:53

to bring me in contact with

6:56

people who are open to dialogue,

6:59

but we are not the

7:01

power brokers. We are not the ones

7:03

who are in control

7:05

of either the Palestinian side

7:08

or the Israeli side or

7:10

even the American government

7:12

really in terms of moving things

7:14

forward.

7:15

That I suppose, what I'm asking is

7:17

in in maybe not

7:19

totally in political terms, how

7:22

do you feel about the

7:25

fact that there

7:27

is this tension of

7:30

perhaps the extension

7:33

of the amount of land

7:35

that Israel has, the

7:37

diminution of land that Arabs can live

7:39

in, How do you feel?

7:41

How do I feel? My personal

7:43

feeling is that it is something

7:46

that needs to be resolved and

7:48

that it is something that Israel

7:51

has been long avoiding

7:54

addressing. So

7:59

there's this old clock tower

8:01

here in Jaffa that's

8:03

in the center of this

8:05

road. And it's

8:07

sort of the marking of you've now entered

8:09

into Jaffa. Everybody knows when

8:11

you're like, oh, I'll meet you by the clock

8:13

tower. So that's the that's

8:15

the landmark. It doesn't make any

8:18

chimes or anything like

8:19

that. That's tell the time, doesn't It does

8:21

tell the time. From

8:24

old Safaric music to modern

8:26

jazz,

8:32

So the flea market, which we

8:35

were just at the beginning

8:37

of goes off of one

8:39

direction, and then the

8:41

port is in the other direction.

8:43

After a

8:51

rather fitful first night sleep,

8:53

the noisiness of Tel

8:55

Aviv was brought home to me

8:57

with a bang. There's

9:01

building going on everywhere here, not

9:03

least, right under my apartment

9:06

window. Oh,

9:15

it's still pretty early, but having

9:17

been ripe stood out by the builders.

9:19

I've come to the

9:21

caramel market, which

9:23

is not very far from my

9:25

apartment And it's

9:27

huge. This market really is

9:29

because Tel Aviv is not that

9:32

bigger city, but the

9:34

market is very large. So I'm

9:36

at a torn between finding

9:38

a shopper to talk to and

9:40

getting an Israeli breakfast,

9:42

a traditional Israeli breakfast.

9:46

Hello? Hi.

9:47

Sorry. I can't see. What are you selling?

9:50

You've got all kind of

9:52

radio. You've been through what you like.

9:54

Well, tempt

9:57

me. What what bread have you got?

9:59

You got your small bread.

10:01

Got

10:01

you. Yeah. Can I touch it? Yeah.

10:04

Is it got a name? Is that a ciabatta?

10:06

Ciabatta. Oh, it's a ciabatta. Right.

10:08

Actually, these are nice. I like

10:10

those. Which cheese would I'm

10:16

Peter White. Welcome to Sounds

10:18

of the city on BBC

10:20

World Service. First

10:22

of all, I like the fact that everything is

10:25

fresh, and I can get a

10:27

wide variety of things that I can't

10:29

get easily at

10:31

like the supermarket. I can

10:33

get all different kinds of beans and

10:35

lentils and things like that.

10:37

And I like have fresh

10:39

ground coffee. So those

10:42

are the kinds of things that I like to do. I like

10:44

in love. Fresh

10:49

places and things like that. I just I just ran out

10:51

of curbs. Now,

10:56

I've come to meet Edin, who's

10:58

a bit of a star around these

11:01

parts. People started by

11:03

telling me she was a model I think what

11:05

she really is is a singer and

11:07

she's had quite a lot of television

11:09

fame. Anyway, I need to know

11:11

more.

11:12

They don't I need

11:14

to find her. Two blind

11:17

people finding each other is always

11:19

interesting. Amen. Hi.

11:21

I'm sorry. No. No, John. Hello,

11:23

dog?

11:23

Hello, dog. Because who was a dog? We

11:26

understand he previously don't understand.

11:28

Is that right? So she only

11:30

knows Hebrew commands. She's

11:35

learned English. There's

11:40

lots of building going on around here,

11:42

isn't it? Yeah. Everywhere I go, I

11:44

hid drills and sawals. So

11:46

three. Most of

11:47

her just buildings and

11:50

buildings. Where are we

11:51

going, Adam? Maybe there's a small park.

11:54

Demma love this area. Yeah.

11:57

Demma is coming herself under the

11:59

bench. Yeah. She's nice in this park. I

12:01

I tell you what, can you I

12:02

mean, first of all, just tell me a bit about

12:04

yourself. I'm twenty three years

12:06

old. I'm a student. I'm

12:09

a modelist. I'm single

12:11

and I have a guide

12:13

dog. My name is Gemma.

12:15

You said

12:16

you were a a student. Say,

12:18

tell me about that. What is your course?

12:20

I'm student of advertising

12:22

and marketing because I love to

12:24

to market myself and

12:26

to talk about myself. I have

12:28

an Instagram account, and it takes

12:30

okay account, and I have a

12:32

lot of followers, like, in my

12:34

take of they are, like, fifty

12:36

two. K followers. And

12:38

in my

12:38

Instagram, there are eleven

12:41

thousand followers.

12:41

On those accounts, what kind of things

12:44

do you do you think? I'm a senior.

12:46

So I'm talking about my dreams

12:48

and I'm sure my followers

12:50

how I can make my dreams

12:52

come true. I'm giving a lot of tips how

12:54

to Can you make your

12:57

dreams come true? So

12:59

my dreams was to be a modelist

13:01

and to to get into a

13:03

fashion show. So I get

13:05

pictures with super photographers.

13:07

I'm mean of vogue magazine

13:09

in Dolce

13:10

Gabbana. I even take a

13:12

part in a fashion show. I

13:14

even believe that I was

13:17

on a fashion show I mean

13:19

So that was the dream in a way. That

13:21

was to be on one of these in one of

13:23

these big fashion shows. Yeah.

13:25

And the

13:25

land is big, isn't it? Yeah. My mother

13:27

is big. And it's really

13:29

great. And I and I

13:31

so proud of them and I so

13:33

proud of myself that I really success

13:35

because most of the people in Israel

13:37

didn't let me the the chance.

13:39

They didn't let me the

13:41

opportunity because of my

13:43

blindness. That's what I felt most of

13:45

the time. When I was a

13:47

fourteen years old, fifteen years old. In

13:49

my school, I didn't get

13:52

with

13:52

friends. So I didn't have

13:54

friends. No friends.

13:55

Why not? Why not? Alright.

13:58

Because it was hard for them to get

14:00

defected online. And I don't

14:02

know how to how to

14:04

behave with you. I mean,

14:06

they tried to, but they didn't

14:08

know. So it was

14:10

really hard. And I tried to vial,

14:12

what would they help me? And

14:14

so I tried about

14:16

modeling and

14:17

beauty. I know how to make up myself today and

14:19

make up myself alone. See

14:21

the problem is I don't I can't see

14:23

how beautiful your makeup probably

14:26

is. Thank

14:27

you. You do that every morning,

14:30

please. That every not every

14:32

morning. I wouldn't lie, but I but I'm

14:34

doing that because you're taking a

14:36

lot of time because when you're not seeing, you have

14:38

to feel. So

14:40

when you're feeling, so it takes

14:42

a time. I

14:43

love it so much. So,

14:46

yeah, I'm gonna wait for this

14:48

plane to get a bit further. No. You're right

14:50

in the flight path here, aren't you of

14:52

the of aircraft? Let

14:54

it get a bit further go away.

14:56

Oh.

14:56

No. It's fast.

14:57

There's a there's a bird overhead as well.

14:59

Yeah. Now there is a bird. Mhmm. Maybe you want

15:01

me

15:01

to think something? Yeah.

15:03

Yeah. We do. Not one of that planes

15:05

going over though. Yeah. There's

15:10

probably nowhere in Tel Aviv where you

15:12

wouldn't get the planes going over, isn't

15:13

it? Yeah.

15:13

Because we are so close to the

15:16

to the airport. Right.

15:18

We are

15:18

so close.

15:19

Okay. It's nearly gone. Do you wanna sing

15:22

something for us? Yeah. I wanna sing something

15:24

real. She just wants

15:26

to be very

15:28

fussy go. I don't

15:30

know that it's in all.

15:32

No. I mean, two price.

15:34

It doesn't say two

15:36

prices. An image. She

15:39

appears to be sculpted

15:41

by the sculptor. Oh,

15:44

she don't see. Right

15:46

that shining, deeper

15:48

in the ice can find it.

15:51

Maybe we have made a climb, so

15:53

she starts to cover up

15:55

a penny.

15:56

That's it. That's lovely. That's

15:58

really good. And so have you made have you

16:00

made records yet? You made

16:03

discs?

16:04

I have three singles, but they are in Hebrew.

16:06

They are not in English. And

16:09

I really love to sing. I wasn't the ex

16:11

factor in Israel. I

16:13

feel like I'm in this

16:15

time I'm doing things that they are that

16:17

I feel that they are

16:18

unbelievable. So

16:19

you're gonna you think you can do all

16:22

these things you can make them all work together.

16:24

You know, the modeling, it's it's a

16:26

new career. I don't know how

16:28

in Israel, people will

16:30

get there. So and so I guess it will take a little bit

16:32

time for it. But I'm

16:34

okay is that when

16:36

my boyfriend and me, we

16:39

and we want to get married together, so I

16:41

want to build a family.

16:44

Mhmm. And so really

16:46

exciting for that. Now you've

16:51

got friends at college.

16:53

Yeah. Making friends. Where do you go? Where

16:55

do you go? We're going to clubs. Together, are we

16:57

going to the bar together? You

17:01

know, the

17:01

drinks, the mule the kind of the the

17:03

music, the mainstream music, think.

17:05

I loved him, the music, I

17:07

loved him dance. And

17:11

I wonder you travel here. And,

17:14

you know, public

17:16

transport, what's the best way for a blind

17:18

person to get around here do you

17:19

find? I think the best

17:22

way around is really the buses. The

17:24

buses, of course, we have a

17:26

few different bus companies that

17:28

operate in in this

17:30

area. And and the Dan Bus

17:32

Company, which is the primary

17:35

in the original Bus Company that

17:37

ran through teles of

17:39

leave and now has a couple of

17:41

companies that compete with it. The

17:43

Dan Bus Company is very good and

17:45

they are quite helpful and the drivers

17:47

are generous and kind in general, but

17:50

their their competitors I find to be

17:53

what's the best word to

17:55

use? Hittiest.

17:59

Because They oftentimes

18:01

don't stop at the stops. And

18:03

of course, it being visually impaired.

18:06

I can't tell it they've come or

18:08

not come, I get on the app.

18:10

It tells me that your bus is now

18:12

arriving, but I can't actually

18:14

tell if that bus that

18:16

is coming up

18:18

is the one that I want or if

18:20

it's the the one after it or

18:22

the second or third one following.

18:25

Route

18:25

311 minute. Then,

18:29

bus. Then,

18:31

van. You know, so many bus is

18:33

coming to the same station. You can't tell which one it

18:35

is that you need. And if you

18:37

don't signal to the

18:40

bus, they don't pull over. They

18:42

sometimes just fly right past. So if

18:44

you don't see the new count signal.

18:47

Exactly. Exactly. Mhmm. And if there's isn't

18:49

someone else at the station who you

18:51

can kindly say, oh, I need the number

18:53

eighteen and they they say, oh,

18:55

sure. I'll I'll tell you when it

18:57

comes. If you happen to

18:59

be there by yourself, then

19:02

you can just stand there. Yeah.

19:04

And wait for the next bus and

19:06

then the next

19:07

bus. Eighteen.

19:08

Did is there an eighteen year?

19:11

August Okay. We'll

19:18

walk into the port so that you can see

19:20

where all the boats are. Hyerkone

19:23

Park is in terms

19:25

of

19:25

area. It is bigger

19:28

than control park in New York City. Yeah.

19:31

Okay. They built it so that it

19:34

goes in, like, these little hills.

19:36

So you feel like you're walking on

19:38

sand

19:38

dunes. Okay? Yeah.

19:41

So though you're on a deck. You're

19:43

like walking on these little hills. Okay? And you

19:45

feel like you're walking on these little sandals. And

19:47

then instead of having regular benches,

19:49

to sit on. They have these

19:53

big objects that, I guess,

19:55

are supposed to be, like, rocks. Okay?

19:57

Yeah. So that you feel like you're sitting

19:59

on the beach. Okay? But

20:01

you're on a deck. Yeah.

20:04

So you don't actually have

20:05

to, like, go to one of the beaches.

20:07

I wanted to know more

20:09

about the unusual history

20:11

of Tel Aviv. So a

20:14

museum would be the obvious place.

20:16

The first one I tried was a bit of a disaster,

20:18

closed for renovation until

20:21

twenty twenty

20:22

four. More

20:23

like at

20:23

the next one, though. Do

20:26

you

20:26

know

20:26

what what was here before? Yeah. Before

20:29

it does it.

20:29

Was on It was

20:31

empty. It really

20:34

was empty, only sent.

20:36

We are very close to the sea,

20:38

and it was people that say that

20:40

about this people who buy their land say

20:43

that they're crazy, that

20:45

they want to build here a

20:47

city or a neighborhood good

20:49

for the Jewish from

20:50

Jaffa. Because Jaffa was very

20:53

very high price

20:56

and they I

20:56

mean Yes. So they couldn't afford houses like this. Yes. This

20:59

was

20:59

very expensive. This

21:02

is

21:02

the beginning. Of Tel

21:05

Aviv. The

21:09

founding fathers

21:11

of Tel Aviv had been working on a

21:13

plan to leave the ancient port city of

21:16

Jafar for years before nineteen o

21:18

nine. But the year nineteen

21:20

o has been chosen as the

21:22

official founding date of Tel

21:24

Aviv because of an event that took

21:26

place on what is now the

21:28

Rochai

21:28

Boulevard. Keep Aleva, the father

21:30

of Tel Aviv, make the lottery

21:32

between the sixty six family

21:34

and to decide who

21:37

built well and he walked to the

21:39

beach and fight some sixty

21:41

six white stone and

21:43

sixty six brown stone

21:46

and white the names of

21:48

the families on the white stone,

21:50

a number of the area in the

21:52

in the brown stone

21:56

Yes. They do like a

21:59

lottery and then decided

22:01

where each one of them will

22:03

leave. And this house in

22:05

the house of a year, Guangdong,

22:07

he was the high commander

22:09

of Zagana. And

22:13

it's not from the beginning for

22:15

the self neighborhood, who is the second

22:17

neighborhood in Tel Aviv. The

22:19

house, it's very similar

22:22

to the filtered houses here in this

22:24

area. But it was a

22:27

a very long process. To

22:31

it. Yeah.

22:32

What's it

22:33

like now? Do you live here? I live here.

22:35

Yes. What do you

22:35

think of it? I

22:36

think it's a great place to

22:39

live here. Yes. It's

22:41

very good city. What

22:43

you want you have

22:45

here, it's it's very small,

22:47

but it's like New York very

22:50

very small you your

22:50

hook. That's gonna you really

22:52

compare it with me your hook. I think,

22:54

yes.

22:54

I've heard other

22:55

people say that, actually. Is

22:58

that because of the culture? Right? Because of

23:00

the culture. Yeah. Yeah. These

23:03

buildings are in the old port

23:05

city of Jeff and they're, like, built out

23:07

of stone and they're they're pretty

23:08

old. They're Ooma's dusty.

23:12

You can also feel,

23:13

like, the coldness of the

23:16

of the street from the stone buildings. Yeah.

23:18

Tel Aviv is a small

23:21

city. It's walkable. It's

23:25

as someone who studied urban planning, I'll say

23:27

it's poorly built.

23:29

It's built so that

23:32

the major avenues run

23:35

north the south. And since it's along the

23:37

beach, it blocks

23:39

the air. You know, you would think that the

23:41

major avenues would run east

23:43

to to bring the air from

23:45

the sea out

23:47

into the

23:48

city, but but never

23:51

mind. No one asked me. They should

23:52

have. They should have. Yeah. I

23:54

wasn't around when they built it. But in

23:56

any event, but it is an easy city

23:58

to walk. And it's coming

24:00

much more accessible. They've put in more

24:03

ramps, which are make it

24:05

nicer for people who are in

24:07

wheel shares and people who are pushing strollers, and

24:09

it makes it nicer for people

24:11

who also are counting on some

24:13

sort of signaling like I do.

24:15

And the little patents

24:17

to tell you the when the light has changed. So all

24:20

those things are

24:20

coming. She finds

24:23

she knows to find a crosswalk.

24:26

And then to

24:29

stop,

24:32

I think we must be getting down night

24:35

tour to see

24:36

you. Tala

24:40

Vue, it's a gray city when

24:42

you're coming to visit, not

24:44

to live. That's my opinion.

24:47

Because the city is too big, and

24:49

now we what now they

24:51

have a lot of new

24:54

buildings. There are so

24:56

many problems because of the

24:58

new train that they're trying to build

25:00

so many years. And all of

25:02

the path with the

25:04

bicycles It's like for me for me for

25:06

a blind

25:06

girl, I'm I'm scared to walking

25:09

them. Really? Yeah.

25:11

There are maybe like

25:13

one, two, or three places that are

25:15

going there alone on Tel Aviv, but most

25:17

of the places you can

25:19

you cannot go because of the

25:21

noises. When you are blind,

25:24

most of them, you know,

25:26

cars,

25:26

bicycles, you cannot

25:28

hear them. Until they are so

25:32

close to you. And

25:35

so that's dangerous.

25:37

The port in

25:40

the south of Tel Aviv was

25:42

a bit of a revelation. From

25:44

what seemed like terminal

25:46

decline, it's been turned into a bustling, thriving

25:49

area where people shop, eat,

25:51

and

25:51

party. Ricky took

25:54

me on a guided tour. Say

25:57

the port is over four thousand years

25:59

old. It's one of the oldest ports

26:01

in the in the world.

26:04

A Napoleon came through Jaffray

26:07

on his way up north

26:09

to to conquer. He

26:11

hoped you know,

26:15

this land, everybody got

26:17

very sick and

26:19

they went up north to make up they

26:21

got beef. And then I came back

26:23

to the theater and I went back to

26:26

Egypt in seventeen

26:28

ninety

26:28

nine. In

26:30

terms of leisure and fun, what other things

26:32

you like to do here?

26:35

Well, I enjoy my

26:37

bicycling group with a tandem bicycling team,

26:39

which is a lot of fun for me.

26:41

Sounds like there are quite a lot of you

26:44

actually doing Yes. We're about seventy

26:46

people altogether visually

26:48

impaired and sighted people

26:51

the activities are are really nice

26:53

because this group actually rides in

26:56

Tel Aviv on bicycle

26:59

paths in and around the

27:00

city, and it's just very nice. And this

27:04

is the Greek.

27:06

This is huge building here. It's the

27:09

Greek culture. You passed

27:11

on your way here, a mosque,

27:13

and then the Armenian church.

27:16

These kids here on

27:19

our rice are

27:21

in what's called sofae yam,

27:23

which is sea scout.

27:25

It's like boy scout or girl scout, but

27:28

it should be seen. And

27:30

there are a lot of the art and

27:32

nutrition. Mixed groups,

27:34

which is wonderful. And

27:37

they're obviously having some sort of celebration

27:41

activity. Oftentimes,

27:45

these programs use

27:47

high school or

27:50

your kids before the

27:52

army is good leaders.

27:56

Felly Rolkos. You

27:58

think this is wrong.

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