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1:38
There's a totally blind first timer
1:41
in Israel. It's inevitable that
1:43
a lot of my impressions are based
1:45
on the words I hear and
1:47
the news headlines I read Part
1:49
of the fascination is visiting the
1:52
land with place names that go back
1:54
to biblical times, Galilee,
1:56
Samaria, Beth VM. But
1:59
inevitably, I've grown up
2:01
hearing about tensions, terrorism.
2:04
And the impression of a country fiercely
2:06
protecting its relatively recent
2:09
national status. So
2:11
arriving in Tel Aviv, what
2:13
I'm not expecting is
2:15
a pretty relaxed city.
2:17
But with very modern problems, gridlocked
2:20
traffic, high prices, and
2:22
key this for a blind traveler, crowded
2:25
pavement. It's on one of these
2:27
that I meet my blind guide
2:30
for my
2:30
visit. Heather, Heather.
2:32
Lovely to meet you. I'm Peter.
2:34
Nice to meet you. Make guide dogs. Hello,
2:36
dog. Skyler.
2:38
Hello, Skyler. Okay, Doug.
2:40
There's so much building going on here.
2:42
Yeah. There's a ton of construction. Jaffa
2:45
is an ancient city.
2:47
Okay? Truly ancient it's
2:50
in the bible
2:51
if you know the story of Jona and the whale.
2:53
Oh, indeed. Yeah.
2:54
This day. So left from the
2:57
Port of Java.
2:58
That's how old it is. That's that's how old it
3:00
is. It's in the bible. And the
3:02
city itself, you know, has
3:04
of course gone through many, many phases
3:06
of building, but the current
3:09
city is about
3:13
hundred and
3:15
fifty years old. So before
3:17
the before the State of Israel, and
3:19
then you have, you
3:21
know, newer construction on top
3:23
of older construction. Buses
3:28
around would be Eric
3:30
Clapton. I think we can hear there in the background.
3:34
You're gonna walk up a little bit and
3:36
gonna take you to where the
3:39
Jaffa clock tower is.
3:43
Heather said it was busy. It's
3:46
it's quite wait for a blind person moving
3:48
on, you know, we're we're shuffling
3:50
at about a pace every two or
3:52
three seconds and just passing
3:54
somebody
3:55
You seem to be quite bulky, really.
3:57
And I got that. Skyler, what was
3:59
that? I enjoy walking with
4:02
the guide dog because she tends to
4:04
direct me so that I don't bang into things.
4:09
But it is kind of crowded. This
4:13
neighborhood, particularly, which had
4:16
been really terribly run
4:18
down, is now the happening
4:20
spot.
4:22
But will people complain that it's
4:24
losing its character? It it
4:25
has lost its character. But
4:28
but has a totally new new
4:30
vibe of, like, young families and
4:33
sheepshocks and things like that.
4:37
So you can hear this music here. Yeah.
4:40
This is a very traditional
4:43
sephartic type music.
4:45
This is I I think a restaurant
4:49
that serves traditional orientaled
4:51
food. So they're getting ready for
4:53
the for the sabbath encouraging people to
4:55
come by playing their music very loud.
5:00
Tel Aviv is a great city. It's easy
5:02
to get around in.
5:04
It's walkable. It's
5:06
a great city to graze children
5:09
in. And I mean
5:11
that that in the way that people
5:14
people look out for one another even
5:16
though I'm in a major metrop as
5:19
I can still have a situation
5:21
where my kid lost
5:23
his shoe at the playground and
5:26
still someone managed to find a
5:28
shoe when someone else managed to figure
5:30
out that it belonged to my kid and someone
5:32
else managed to send my phone number to
5:34
someone else to someone else to someone else and
5:36
lo and behold, the shoe found its way back to
5:38
me. So
5:42
that's that's the good side. The bad side
5:44
is that people are to nosy
5:46
and and won't hesitate
5:48
to tell you that your hair
5:50
needs to be dyed or that that color
5:52
isn't becoming of you. But
5:54
they do but they do care.
5:56
Mhmm. They mean it in the in the nicest
5:58
of
5:58
ways. There's a third thing that you haven't
6:01
mentioned which I'm interested in
6:03
because, I mean, people not living
6:05
here, the news headlines they
6:07
hear about Tel Aviv or
6:09
about tensions, about,
6:11
you know, Israeli Arab
6:14
relationships. Well,
6:17
it certainly is something
6:19
that happens because there
6:23
are in fact terrorist events
6:25
that happen here in Israel.
6:28
And it is, unfortunately,
6:30
a fact of life But, I
6:32
mean, I I'm a very liberal
6:34
person, and I'm very much involved in
6:37
liberal, left
6:39
leaning politics narrowed Israeli
6:41
Spheres as well as some
6:44
Palestinian leaning Spheres.
6:46
So I have a
6:49
lot of involvement in these
6:51
issues that tends
6:53
to bring me in contact with
6:56
people who are open to dialogue,
6:59
but we are not the
7:01
power brokers. We are not the ones
7:03
who are in control
7:05
of either the Palestinian side
7:08
or the Israeli side or
7:10
even the American government
7:12
really in terms of moving things
7:14
forward.
7:15
That I suppose, what I'm asking is
7:17
in in maybe not
7:19
totally in political terms, how
7:22
do you feel about the
7:25
fact that there
7:27
is this tension of
7:30
perhaps the extension
7:33
of the amount of land
7:35
that Israel has, the
7:37
diminution of land that Arabs can live
7:39
in, How do you feel?
7:41
How do I feel? My personal
7:43
feeling is that it is something
7:46
that needs to be resolved and
7:48
that it is something that Israel
7:51
has been long avoiding
7:54
addressing. So
7:59
there's this old clock tower
8:01
here in Jaffa that's
8:03
in the center of this
8:05
road. And it's
8:07
sort of the marking of you've now entered
8:09
into Jaffa. Everybody knows when
8:11
you're like, oh, I'll meet you by the clock
8:13
tower. So that's the that's
8:15
the landmark. It doesn't make any
8:18
chimes or anything like
8:19
that. That's tell the time, doesn't It does
8:21
tell the time. From
8:24
old Safaric music to modern
8:26
jazz,
8:32
So the flea market, which we
8:35
were just at the beginning
8:37
of goes off of one
8:39
direction, and then the
8:41
port is in the other direction.
8:43
After a
8:51
rather fitful first night sleep,
8:53
the noisiness of Tel
8:55
Aviv was brought home to me
8:57
with a bang. There's
9:01
building going on everywhere here, not
9:03
least, right under my apartment
9:06
window. Oh,
9:15
it's still pretty early, but having
9:17
been ripe stood out by the builders.
9:19
I've come to the
9:21
caramel market, which
9:23
is not very far from my
9:25
apartment And it's
9:27
huge. This market really is
9:29
because Tel Aviv is not that
9:32
bigger city, but the
9:34
market is very large. So I'm
9:36
at a torn between finding
9:38
a shopper to talk to and
9:40
getting an Israeli breakfast,
9:42
a traditional Israeli breakfast.
9:46
Hello? Hi.
9:47
Sorry. I can't see. What are you selling?
9:50
You've got all kind of
9:52
radio. You've been through what you like.
9:54
Well, tempt
9:57
me. What what bread have you got?
9:59
You got your small bread.
10:01
Got
10:01
you. Yeah. Can I touch it? Yeah.
10:04
Is it got a name? Is that a ciabatta?
10:06
Ciabatta. Oh, it's a ciabatta. Right.
10:08
Actually, these are nice. I like
10:10
those. Which cheese would I'm
10:16
Peter White. Welcome to Sounds
10:18
of the city on BBC
10:20
World Service. First
10:22
of all, I like the fact that everything is
10:25
fresh, and I can get a
10:27
wide variety of things that I can't
10:29
get easily at
10:31
like the supermarket. I can
10:33
get all different kinds of beans and
10:35
lentils and things like that.
10:37
And I like have fresh
10:39
ground coffee. So those
10:42
are the kinds of things that I like to do. I like
10:44
in love. Fresh
10:49
places and things like that. I just I just ran out
10:51
of curbs. Now,
10:56
I've come to meet Edin, who's
10:58
a bit of a star around these
11:01
parts. People started by
11:03
telling me she was a model I think what
11:05
she really is is a singer and
11:07
she's had quite a lot of television
11:09
fame. Anyway, I need to know
11:11
more.
11:12
They don't I need
11:14
to find her. Two blind
11:17
people finding each other is always
11:19
interesting. Amen. Hi.
11:21
I'm sorry. No. No, John. Hello,
11:23
dog?
11:23
Hello, dog. Because who was a dog? We
11:26
understand he previously don't understand.
11:28
Is that right? So she only
11:30
knows Hebrew commands. She's
11:35
learned English. There's
11:40
lots of building going on around here,
11:42
isn't it? Yeah. Everywhere I go, I
11:44
hid drills and sawals. So
11:46
three. Most of
11:47
her just buildings and
11:50
buildings. Where are we
11:51
going, Adam? Maybe there's a small park.
11:54
Demma love this area. Yeah.
11:57
Demma is coming herself under the
11:59
bench. Yeah. She's nice in this park. I
12:01
I tell you what, can you I
12:02
mean, first of all, just tell me a bit about
12:04
yourself. I'm twenty three years
12:06
old. I'm a student. I'm
12:09
a modelist. I'm single
12:11
and I have a guide
12:13
dog. My name is Gemma.
12:15
You said
12:16
you were a a student. Say,
12:18
tell me about that. What is your course?
12:20
I'm student of advertising
12:22
and marketing because I love to
12:24
to market myself and
12:26
to talk about myself. I have
12:28
an Instagram account, and it takes
12:30
okay account, and I have a
12:32
lot of followers, like, in my
12:34
take of they are, like, fifty
12:36
two. K followers. And
12:38
in my
12:38
Instagram, there are eleven
12:41
thousand followers.
12:41
On those accounts, what kind of things
12:44
do you do you think? I'm a senior.
12:46
So I'm talking about my dreams
12:48
and I'm sure my followers
12:50
how I can make my dreams
12:52
come true. I'm giving a lot of tips how
12:54
to Can you make your
12:57
dreams come true? So
12:59
my dreams was to be a modelist
13:01
and to to get into a
13:03
fashion show. So I get
13:05
pictures with super photographers.
13:07
I'm mean of vogue magazine
13:09
in Dolce
13:10
Gabbana. I even take a
13:12
part in a fashion show. I
13:14
even believe that I was
13:17
on a fashion show I mean
13:19
So that was the dream in a way. That
13:21
was to be on one of these in one of
13:23
these big fashion shows. Yeah.
13:25
And the
13:25
land is big, isn't it? Yeah. My mother
13:27
is big. And it's really
13:29
great. And I and I
13:31
so proud of them and I so
13:33
proud of myself that I really success
13:35
because most of the people in Israel
13:37
didn't let me the the chance.
13:39
They didn't let me the
13:41
opportunity because of my
13:43
blindness. That's what I felt most of
13:45
the time. When I was a
13:47
fourteen years old, fifteen years old. In
13:49
my school, I didn't get
13:52
with
13:52
friends. So I didn't have
13:54
friends. No friends.
13:55
Why not? Why not? Alright.
13:58
Because it was hard for them to get
14:00
defected online. And I don't
14:02
know how to how to
14:04
behave with you. I mean,
14:06
they tried to, but they didn't
14:08
know. So it was
14:10
really hard. And I tried to vial,
14:12
what would they help me? And
14:14
so I tried about
14:16
modeling and
14:17
beauty. I know how to make up myself today and
14:19
make up myself alone. See
14:21
the problem is I don't I can't see
14:23
how beautiful your makeup probably
14:26
is. Thank
14:27
you. You do that every morning,
14:30
please. That every not every
14:32
morning. I wouldn't lie, but I but I'm
14:34
doing that because you're taking a
14:36
lot of time because when you're not seeing, you have
14:38
to feel. So
14:40
when you're feeling, so it takes
14:42
a time. I
14:43
love it so much. So,
14:46
yeah, I'm gonna wait for this
14:48
plane to get a bit further. No. You're right
14:50
in the flight path here, aren't you of
14:52
the of aircraft? Let
14:54
it get a bit further go away.
14:56
Oh.
14:56
No. It's fast.
14:57
There's a there's a bird overhead as well.
14:59
Yeah. Now there is a bird. Mhmm. Maybe you want
15:01
me
15:01
to think something? Yeah.
15:03
Yeah. We do. Not one of that planes
15:05
going over though. Yeah. There's
15:10
probably nowhere in Tel Aviv where you
15:12
wouldn't get the planes going over, isn't
15:13
it? Yeah.
15:13
Because we are so close to the
15:16
to the airport. Right.
15:18
We are
15:18
so close.
15:19
Okay. It's nearly gone. Do you wanna sing
15:22
something for us? Yeah. I wanna sing something
15:24
real. She just wants
15:26
to be very
15:28
fussy go. I don't
15:30
know that it's in all.
15:32
No. I mean, two price.
15:34
It doesn't say two
15:36
prices. An image. She
15:39
appears to be sculpted
15:41
by the sculptor. Oh,
15:44
she don't see. Right
15:46
that shining, deeper
15:48
in the ice can find it.
15:51
Maybe we have made a climb, so
15:53
she starts to cover up
15:55
a penny.
15:56
That's it. That's lovely. That's
15:58
really good. And so have you made have you
16:00
made records yet? You made
16:03
discs?
16:04
I have three singles, but they are in Hebrew.
16:06
They are not in English. And
16:09
I really love to sing. I wasn't the ex
16:11
factor in Israel. I
16:13
feel like I'm in this
16:15
time I'm doing things that they are that
16:17
I feel that they are
16:18
unbelievable. So
16:19
you're gonna you think you can do all
16:22
these things you can make them all work together.
16:24
You know, the modeling, it's it's a
16:26
new career. I don't know how
16:28
in Israel, people will
16:30
get there. So and so I guess it will take a little bit
16:32
time for it. But I'm
16:34
okay is that when
16:36
my boyfriend and me, we
16:39
and we want to get married together, so I
16:41
want to build a family.
16:44
Mhmm. And so really
16:46
exciting for that. Now you've
16:51
got friends at college.
16:53
Yeah. Making friends. Where do you go? Where
16:55
do you go? We're going to clubs. Together, are we
16:57
going to the bar together? You
17:01
know, the
17:01
drinks, the mule the kind of the the
17:03
music, the mainstream music, think.
17:05
I loved him, the music, I
17:07
loved him dance. And
17:11
I wonder you travel here. And,
17:14
you know, public
17:16
transport, what's the best way for a blind
17:18
person to get around here do you
17:19
find? I think the best
17:22
way around is really the buses. The
17:24
buses, of course, we have a
17:26
few different bus companies that
17:28
operate in in this
17:30
area. And and the Dan Bus
17:32
Company, which is the primary
17:35
in the original Bus Company that
17:37
ran through teles of
17:39
leave and now has a couple of
17:41
companies that compete with it. The
17:43
Dan Bus Company is very good and
17:45
they are quite helpful and the drivers
17:47
are generous and kind in general, but
17:50
their their competitors I find to be
17:53
what's the best word to
17:55
use? Hittiest.
17:59
Because They oftentimes
18:01
don't stop at the stops. And
18:03
of course, it being visually impaired.
18:06
I can't tell it they've come or
18:08
not come, I get on the app.
18:10
It tells me that your bus is now
18:12
arriving, but I can't actually
18:14
tell if that bus that
18:16
is coming up
18:18
is the one that I want or if
18:20
it's the the one after it or
18:22
the second or third one following.
18:25
Route
18:25
311 minute. Then,
18:29
bus. Then,
18:31
van. You know, so many bus is
18:33
coming to the same station. You can't tell which one it
18:35
is that you need. And if you
18:37
don't signal to the
18:40
bus, they don't pull over. They
18:42
sometimes just fly right past. So if
18:44
you don't see the new count signal.
18:47
Exactly. Exactly. Mhmm. And if there's isn't
18:49
someone else at the station who you
18:51
can kindly say, oh, I need the number
18:53
eighteen and they they say, oh,
18:55
sure. I'll I'll tell you when it
18:57
comes. If you happen to
18:59
be there by yourself, then
19:02
you can just stand there. Yeah.
19:04
And wait for the next bus and
19:06
then the next
19:07
bus. Eighteen.
19:08
Did is there an eighteen year?
19:11
August Okay. We'll
19:18
walk into the port so that you can see
19:20
where all the boats are. Hyerkone
19:23
Park is in terms
19:25
of
19:25
area. It is bigger
19:28
than control park in New York City. Yeah.
19:31
Okay. They built it so that it
19:34
goes in, like, these little hills.
19:36
So you feel like you're walking on
19:38
sand
19:38
dunes. Okay? Yeah.
19:41
So though you're on a deck. You're
19:43
like walking on these little hills. Okay? And you
19:45
feel like you're walking on these little sandals. And
19:47
then instead of having regular benches,
19:49
to sit on. They have these
19:53
big objects that, I guess,
19:55
are supposed to be, like, rocks. Okay?
19:57
Yeah. So that you feel like you're sitting
19:59
on the beach. Okay? But
20:01
you're on a deck. Yeah.
20:04
So you don't actually have
20:05
to, like, go to one of the beaches.
20:07
I wanted to know more
20:09
about the unusual history
20:11
of Tel Aviv. So a
20:14
museum would be the obvious place.
20:16
The first one I tried was a bit of a disaster,
20:18
closed for renovation until
20:21
twenty twenty
20:22
four. More
20:23
like at
20:23
the next one, though. Do
20:26
you
20:26
know
20:26
what what was here before? Yeah. Before
20:29
it does it.
20:29
Was on It was
20:31
empty. It really
20:34
was empty, only sent.
20:36
We are very close to the sea,
20:38
and it was people that say that
20:40
about this people who buy their land say
20:43
that they're crazy, that
20:45
they want to build here a
20:47
city or a neighborhood good
20:49
for the Jewish from
20:50
Jaffa. Because Jaffa was very
20:53
very high price
20:56
and they I
20:56
mean Yes. So they couldn't afford houses like this. Yes. This
20:59
was
20:59
very expensive. This
21:02
is
21:02
the beginning. Of Tel
21:05
Aviv. The
21:09
founding fathers
21:11
of Tel Aviv had been working on a
21:13
plan to leave the ancient port city of
21:16
Jafar for years before nineteen o
21:18
nine. But the year nineteen
21:20
o has been chosen as the
21:22
official founding date of Tel
21:24
Aviv because of an event that took
21:26
place on what is now the
21:28
Rochai
21:28
Boulevard. Keep Aleva, the father
21:30
of Tel Aviv, make the lottery
21:32
between the sixty six family
21:34
and to decide who
21:37
built well and he walked to the
21:39
beach and fight some sixty
21:41
six white stone and
21:43
sixty six brown stone
21:46
and white the names of
21:48
the families on the white stone,
21:50
a number of the area in the
21:52
in the brown stone
21:56
Yes. They do like a
21:59
lottery and then decided
22:01
where each one of them will
22:03
leave. And this house in
22:05
the house of a year, Guangdong,
22:07
he was the high commander
22:09
of Zagana. And
22:13
it's not from the beginning for
22:15
the self neighborhood, who is the second
22:17
neighborhood in Tel Aviv. The
22:19
house, it's very similar
22:22
to the filtered houses here in this
22:24
area. But it was a
22:27
a very long process. To
22:31
it. Yeah.
22:32
What's it
22:33
like now? Do you live here? I live here.
22:35
Yes. What do you
22:35
think of it? I
22:36
think it's a great place to
22:39
live here. Yes. It's
22:41
very good city. What
22:43
you want you have
22:45
here, it's it's very small,
22:47
but it's like New York very
22:50
very small you your
22:50
hook. That's gonna you really
22:52
compare it with me your hook. I think,
22:54
yes.
22:54
I've heard other
22:55
people say that, actually. Is
22:58
that because of the culture? Right? Because of
23:00
the culture. Yeah. Yeah. These
23:03
buildings are in the old port
23:05
city of Jeff and they're, like, built out
23:07
of stone and they're they're pretty
23:08
old. They're Ooma's dusty.
23:12
You can also feel,
23:13
like, the coldness of the
23:16
of the street from the stone buildings. Yeah.
23:18
Tel Aviv is a small
23:21
city. It's walkable. It's
23:25
as someone who studied urban planning, I'll say
23:27
it's poorly built.
23:29
It's built so that
23:32
the major avenues run
23:35
north the south. And since it's along the
23:37
beach, it blocks
23:39
the air. You know, you would think that the
23:41
major avenues would run east
23:43
to to bring the air from
23:45
the sea out
23:47
into the
23:48
city, but but never
23:51
mind. No one asked me. They should
23:52
have. They should have. Yeah. I
23:54
wasn't around when they built it. But in
23:56
any event, but it is an easy city
23:58
to walk. And it's coming
24:00
much more accessible. They've put in more
24:03
ramps, which are make it
24:05
nicer for people who are in
24:07
wheel shares and people who are pushing strollers, and
24:09
it makes it nicer for people
24:11
who also are counting on some
24:13
sort of signaling like I do.
24:15
And the little patents
24:17
to tell you the when the light has changed. So all
24:20
those things are
24:20
coming. She finds
24:23
she knows to find a crosswalk.
24:26
And then to
24:29
stop,
24:32
I think we must be getting down night
24:35
tour to see
24:36
you. Tala
24:40
Vue, it's a gray city when
24:42
you're coming to visit, not
24:44
to live. That's my opinion.
24:47
Because the city is too big, and
24:49
now we what now they
24:51
have a lot of new
24:54
buildings. There are so
24:56
many problems because of the
24:58
new train that they're trying to build
25:00
so many years. And all of
25:02
the path with the
25:04
bicycles It's like for me for me for
25:06
a blind
25:06
girl, I'm I'm scared to walking
25:09
them. Really? Yeah.
25:11
There are maybe like
25:13
one, two, or three places that are
25:15
going there alone on Tel Aviv, but most
25:17
of the places you can
25:19
you cannot go because of the
25:21
noises. When you are blind,
25:24
most of them, you know,
25:26
cars,
25:26
bicycles, you cannot
25:28
hear them. Until they are so
25:32
close to you. And
25:35
so that's dangerous.
25:37
The port in
25:40
the south of Tel Aviv was
25:42
a bit of a revelation. From
25:44
what seemed like terminal
25:46
decline, it's been turned into a bustling, thriving
25:49
area where people shop, eat,
25:51
and
25:51
party. Ricky took
25:54
me on a guided tour. Say
25:57
the port is over four thousand years
25:59
old. It's one of the oldest ports
26:01
in the in the world.
26:04
A Napoleon came through Jaffray
26:07
on his way up north
26:09
to to conquer. He
26:11
hoped you know,
26:15
this land, everybody got
26:17
very sick and
26:19
they went up north to make up they
26:21
got beef. And then I came back
26:23
to the theater and I went back to
26:26
Egypt in seventeen
26:28
ninety
26:28
nine. In
26:30
terms of leisure and fun, what other things
26:32
you like to do here?
26:35
Well, I enjoy my
26:37
bicycling group with a tandem bicycling team,
26:39
which is a lot of fun for me.
26:41
Sounds like there are quite a lot of you
26:44
actually doing Yes. We're about seventy
26:46
people altogether visually
26:48
impaired and sighted people
26:51
the activities are are really nice
26:53
because this group actually rides in
26:56
Tel Aviv on bicycle
26:59
paths in and around the
27:00
city, and it's just very nice. And this
27:04
is the Greek.
27:06
This is huge building here. It's the
27:09
Greek culture. You passed
27:11
on your way here, a mosque,
27:13
and then the Armenian church.
27:16
These kids here on
27:19
our rice are
27:21
in what's called sofae yam,
27:23
which is sea scout.
27:25
It's like boy scout or girl scout, but
27:28
it should be seen. And
27:30
there are a lot of the art and
27:32
nutrition. Mixed groups,
27:34
which is wonderful. And
27:37
they're obviously having some sort of celebration
27:41
activity. Oftentimes,
27:45
these programs use
27:47
high school or
27:50
your kids before the
27:52
army is good leaders.
27:56
Felly Rolkos. You
27:58
think this is wrong.
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