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From a library basement comes a fashion history

From a library basement comes a fashion history

Released Friday, 19th April 2024
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From a library basement comes a fashion history

From a library basement comes a fashion history

From a library basement comes a fashion history

From a library basement comes a fashion history

Friday, 19th April 2024
Good episode? Give it some love!
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0:00

The day before ne

0:02

a new here could

0:04

pay wire or portal

0:06

to com pretty com

0:09

aura. It

0:11

could talk. Gonna have

0:13

data com one a

0:15

key part to cut

0:17

power a. I'm

0:19

Sharon Brick Kelly and today

0:21

on the detail on here

0:24

at Oakland Central Library, and

0:26

I am with Zoe Calling,

0:28

who is a librarian. I

0:30

know this is kind of unusual for

0:32

me, but you're going to take me

0:34

on a tour of not the box,

0:37

but something else. So should we start

0:39

walking and talking, you can tell me

0:41

all about us. Sure, yeah. Some books.

0:43

Oh, it is some hoax. okay cove

0:45

subtle that. mostly magazines. Photographs.

0:49

A manuscript and femur?

0:51

Okay. ephemeral. What's there's

0:53

a famer is printed

0:55

material and team to

0:57

to have a limited

1:00

lifespan. So some examples

1:02

of a theme or

1:04

posters, leaflets, Movie. Tickets

1:06

so kind of throw away items things

1:09

that we don't really think about. That's

1:11

right, and you're a H When Title:

1:13

I love it. Tell me what you're

1:15

correct. Title and year at the Library.

1:18

Associate. Curator Ephemera. so

1:20

I'm one of. Two

1:22

people. Who care for

1:25

the of famer a collection?

1:27

How to urge or clink

1:29

Helpful libraries. The work involves

1:32

acquiring a theme. Cataloguing.

1:35

Urge and making it accessible

1:37

to the public as well

1:39

as using it and displays.

1:42

I both. So

1:49

we just come through the door

1:52

was. At the library which.

1:54

Sees that so last century

1:56

and bed as the name.

1:58

Oh the exhibition here. Well

2:01

we could start with the first

2:03

case. What

2:05

are we looking at? This is a magazine.

2:07

Yes, this is the mirror, the home journal

2:09

of New Zealand. It's

2:12

the cover of the magazine

2:14

from October 1962 and

2:17

I was so pleased when my

2:19

colleague found this because we decided

2:21

to use this image as

2:23

the hero image for the exhibition. It's

2:26

1960s, it's a bright yellow

2:28

jumpsuit. There's also a

2:31

very interesting kind of cane

2:33

bag with a yellow ribbon

2:35

and a yellow hat. We liked

2:37

it because the outfit could be worn today.

2:40

There's something timeless about it. And

2:43

the little headlines on it

2:45

say, The Shy Princess, The

2:48

Forgotten Woman, Sessions, Personalities. Yes,

2:50

some brief copy there. The

2:54

magazine was aimed at middle class

2:57

women. Where did your colleague find

2:59

it? In the serials collection, sometimes with

3:01

exhibitions we will go to the shelf

3:03

and browse. I think in this case

3:06

she knew about this title, she knew

3:09

it was visually interesting material. I had

3:11

never heard of it, but it's an

3:13

example of one of the many magazines

3:15

we have. Yes, a magazine that's produced

3:18

in New Zealand, it's called New Zealand's

3:20

National Journal. That's right. Where is the

3:22

serials collection? That's a good question. There's

3:26

a few different places. This

3:29

particular magazine is kept behind a

3:31

workroom on this floor. We

3:33

also have thousands of serials in

3:35

the basement. That would be where

3:37

the bulk of the collection is. Members

3:40

of the public can come in and request

3:43

to view a lot of the material down

3:45

there. It would be reference only

3:47

material, so you're welcome to read

3:49

the magazines in the library, but not

3:51

borrow them. How far

3:54

back do those magazines go? If

3:56

we look at the case... Let's move to the new

3:59

case. of

4:01

the extent of the magazine

4:03

and newspaper collection is the New Zealand

4:05

Woman's Weekly. Hi I'm Jo Seager and

4:07

here are my easy peasy mini cheese

4:10

muffins. You

4:12

throw everything into the bowl, it's so simple,

4:14

quickly mix it together and you get 36

4:17

muffins out of this recipe, very economical.

4:19

Into the oven for 15 minutes and

4:21

dada, they're ready. Great for an afterschool

4:23

treat or just a cup for cocktails.

4:26

For this easy peasy recipe and more,

4:28

see this week's New Zealand Woman's Weekly.

4:30

It's wonderful that our public

4:32

library system holds the complete run and

4:34

is still getting those

4:36

issues of that iconic magazine. Oh

4:38

what worry can do

4:41

to your 55 face muscles? Some

4:43

things don't change hey? No, no

4:46

we're still worried about those worry

4:48

lines. As well as

4:50

astrology. I know astrology. Yeah

4:52

astrologer Lindo forecast for the Beatles

4:54

but they have been coming out.

4:57

I think they did visit here

4:59

that year. Come

5:02

in will you come? Paul

5:06

McBarry Ringo

5:11

Starr and

5:15

Gordon Harrison Thank

5:21

you everybody who's come along today

5:23

for turning up, for

5:25

joining. So I

5:27

don't know what we can say really. It's

5:30

great to see the Mairi dancers. And

5:33

yeah, thank you and beyond the

5:36

wall with us. What? Can't

5:39

see. I

5:41

think there's possibly a photo in our

5:43

collection of them near the town hall. I

5:46

don't want to promise that. I feel

5:48

like that's familiar. Oh we've got

5:50

a couple of actual record albums in

5:52

here. Yeah so we really

5:54

wanted to make the exhibition visually

5:57

interesting and showcase the variety of

5:59

material. held by Auckland libraries

6:02

and LPs are great for

6:04

doing both those things. So

6:07

Mr Lee Grant from the 60s. And

6:30

Artis are amazing, Auckland

6:32

based bangs. And

6:35

I love the

6:41

harem pants

6:45

here. And

6:56

the 80s shoulder pads. And it's a

6:58

bonus that it is a signed LP.

7:00

So that's a pretty special one. You

7:04

can see the instructions from when these

7:06

LPs were able to be borrowed

7:08

and played. So there is some advice

7:11

I think. Never leave records in a

7:13

warm position. E.G. in cars. A

7:18

diamond needle must always be

7:20

used. Okay. Oh, what's

7:22

this? These are two photographs.

7:25

One from the 1960s, one from

7:27

the 1970s showing two

7:29

different wedding scenes. Sadly,

7:32

we don't know the people in the images.

7:35

We would love to be able to

7:38

identify people in our images. And

7:40

because these were taken during

7:43

a period of time where people

7:45

connected to the people in the images

7:48

are alive now, there's

7:50

a chance we can have these

7:52

people identified and then connected back to those

7:54

families. So really you're putting the call

7:56

out to people come into the library, have a look at,

7:58

you might see if they're there. photo of yourself from

8:01

1960s ago. Yeah exactly.

8:03

And I love this shot having a

8:09

bride in a pantsuit in

8:12

the 70s. We think that's

8:14

very charming. Do you think that was you

8:17

know quite radical to be wearing a pantsuit? I

8:19

feel like it may have been. So

8:27

Zoe what was the

8:30

idea of this exhibition? When

8:32

we decide on exhibitions we

8:34

usually brainstorm as a

8:36

group of subject librarian specialists

8:39

and we think about recent exhibitions

8:42

with Hajj. Like last year we

8:44

had an exhibition focused on the

8:46

medieval manuscripts and

8:48

that was quite spare and you

8:51

know these items from 500 years ago that we

8:55

hold here and we like to contrast

8:57

exhibitions so we

8:59

thought focusing on a

9:01

more recent time period and

9:04

showing different collections like the amazing

9:06

photographs that we have of people

9:09

like these ones on the wall, the

9:12

Raikkenberg Street photographs. Let's go

9:14

and have a look at those. Yeah they're

9:16

pretty stunning. Kind of poster

9:18

size photographs. Yeah

9:20

A1 size. There's 16 of

9:23

them on two walls and

9:26

they were all taken on Queen Street in

9:28

Auckland in 1960. Auckland,

9:35

the largest city in New Zealand with a

9:37

population of over half a million people. It's

9:40

a gorgeous city well planned and still

9:42

growing fast. Friday night is shopping night

9:44

and the city is bustling with people

9:46

and traffic. Auckland is built

9:48

on more than a score of volcanic coast

9:50

thrown up thousands of years ago. And

9:55

what I love about Bays is

9:58

how right and

10:01

his team of photographers really

10:03

captured the diversity of Auckland.

10:06

There's people from all different

10:08

cultural backgrounds and economic

10:10

backgrounds. You can see that from clothing

10:12

they're wearing. We have these two

10:15

women who may

10:17

be in more 1950s

10:20

style clothing, so the formal hats,

10:23

one of them's wearing gloves. And the

10:25

old bus in the background and the

10:27

old car in the background. Yes, you

10:29

can see the road works. Yeah,

10:32

nothing changed there. Exactly.

10:34

And who is Raikkenberg? John

10:37

Raikkenberg immigrated from Holland in

10:39

the 50s and

10:42

had photography as a hobby,

10:44

I believe, and then ended up having

10:47

it as a career and set up a

10:50

photography studio on Albert Street.

10:52

He would take photos of people in

10:55

public places like on

10:57

the street or we've got photos

10:59

in nightclubs and coffee lounges at

11:03

the waterfront in walls, fair

11:05

welling or welcoming people from

11:08

ships. And then he would give

11:10

people a card. They could pop

11:12

into a studio and purchase a

11:14

photograph. So for example,

11:16

this woman in her beautiful

11:18

Pacifica style dress. So he'd

11:20

take a photo of her and then

11:23

give her a card and say, if you

11:25

want to buy this photo, come to my

11:27

studio. That's right, yeah. And he had a

11:29

team of photographers, so his wife was part

11:32

of that team and there were other photographers

11:34

working for him. You

11:36

can sort of see a New

11:38

Zealand look emerging. Yeah,

11:40

I think often

11:42

we would be not necessarily copying,

11:45

but we'd be inspired by trends that

11:47

were happening overseas. So

11:49

there are lots of clear links to fashion

11:52

trends that were happening elsewhere, like

11:55

hemlines getting shorter. It's neat

11:57

having a mix of posed

12:00

shots and candid snaps.

12:02

So that's the photograph.

12:06

Like there's a good shot

12:08

of I

12:11

don't know 10 11 12 do you think?

12:13

Yes. And

12:18

these three have actually been identified which is

12:20

neat. So we know their names. All

12:23

of these images are accessible

12:25

via Kura Heritage Collections Online.

12:28

People can search these and

12:30

I guess that's how

12:32

they found themselves. Yeah, yeah

12:34

lovely. What else have we got

12:36

here? We have a case

12:39

that looks at some fashion

12:41

designers in Aotearoa and

12:44

we've focused mostly on our

12:47

photograph collection and magazine collection

12:49

and when we highlight fashion designers we

12:52

work with what we have so

12:55

we're not able to

12:57

focus on all the

12:59

wonderful designers we have in this country. We

13:02

look through indexes, we find articles

13:04

in magazines and we

13:06

look through our photograph collection to

13:09

find stunning images like this Clifton

13:11

first shot of

13:14

the interior of Emanaki's

13:16

salon on Derby Street and

13:19

that story behind her and her

13:22

family who were originally based in

13:24

Taranaki she ended

13:26

up sending her

13:28

illustrations fashion illustrations to

13:31

a group of designers in London. She

13:33

ended up studying in London and then bringing

13:35

her family back to Auckland to set up

13:37

this shop. So very pioneering. What's

13:40

your favorite here being the ephemera

13:42

specialist? I do

13:45

love the Rickenberg Street photos and we

13:47

do have some neat pieces of

13:49

ephemera I'm quite attached to. In

13:52

one of the cases over here

13:54

we have a

13:56

lubrication chart for a sewing machine. So

13:59

this is home sewing case

14:02

and this wee manual

14:04

when you open it up

14:06

it just yeah it shows

14:08

you how to oil your

14:10

sewing machine so I guess

14:12

it's about the size of a postcard

14:15

but it's a little pamphlet is it?

14:17

What about that because a lot of

14:19

people would just probably throw that away.

14:22

What about that that interests you? So

14:24

it's from 1961 so I love

14:28

it that it's been kept in such good condition

14:30

for so long and I love

14:32

it how it speaks to how

14:36

popular home sewing was and also

14:39

the technical skill involved in sewing

14:42

which can be glossed

14:44

over I guess. Learning

14:47

how to sew skillfully will give you much

14:49

pleasure besides making beautiful

14:51

clothes you can add your

14:53

own touch of genius to your home. Personally

14:57

I find sewing very difficult I'm not able

14:59

to thread a bobbin and I

15:01

like it that this piece of ephemera highlights

15:04

that manual and technical side of

15:07

the skill involved in home sewing

15:09

and what you need to do

15:11

to keep your sewing machine in good nick. The

15:13

other piece of ephemera I love is in this

15:15

1950s and 1960s case and it's called Smith's

15:20

Remnant Bargains and

15:23

it's actually from a shop

15:25

in Rangiura. Inside

15:29

there are examples of fabric

15:31

remnants and what you can

15:33

do with those remnants so

15:35

different ideas about what you can

15:37

make with these scraps and I

15:39

just love that idea. Well this

15:42

is the triangular

15:44

by New Zealand made

15:46

label. It's a label. It's so

15:48

iconic isn't it? It

15:51

really is. We were trying to

15:53

date it it was quite difficult to date it's

15:56

from the 1990s on the award-winning website,

16:00

there's about five different versions of

16:02

that Buy New Zealand Made tag.

16:04

Is that still going? I

16:07

don't think so. So this case looks

16:09

at manufacturing and we've

16:12

highlighted the

16:14

Cambridge Clothing Company records that

16:16

we hold. We have

16:18

a ring binder which has fabric

16:20

swatches and an example

16:22

of a man's suit. We actually

16:24

have a few of the physical

16:27

suits. They're sitting somewhere down

16:29

in the basement. They have been carefully

16:31

cared for by the preservation unit and

16:34

when I went to try and look

16:36

at the suits, they were in an

16:39

archival box and there was a note

16:41

saying please have a look at

16:43

the photos instead. If it's for an

16:45

exhibition that's much easier to just

16:47

look through photos and we decided

16:49

having one suit in a case

16:51

when we are a small room

16:53

would dominate too much. So we've

16:56

gone with these photos of the

16:58

factory floor. So it's interesting, a

17:00

lot of this stuff is too

17:02

precious for people to touch. You've

17:04

got it behind in glass cabinets.

17:07

Yes, it's a heritage collection,

17:10

it's a non-circulating collection. People

17:12

are able to view these items in

17:15

our reading room. Oh they can. Do

17:17

they have to put on gloves? I think the

17:20

advice now is to have clean dry hands. Not

17:23

wear gloves. Sometimes gloves can cause more damage

17:25

because they're kind of fiddly. If you're trying

17:27

to turn a page it can be difficult

17:29

to grasp the corner. Oh

17:32

that's interesting. So this exhibition

17:34

space is our shop front.

17:37

It's a way for people to get

17:39

an understanding of what we hold

17:42

and then they're welcome to explore more. They

17:44

can book a time to meet with a

17:46

librarian, to learn more or talk about what

17:48

they might want to access from our collection.

17:50

And do they have to have a reason for it? No,

17:52

they don't need a reason

17:55

at all. Any chance in going to

17:58

have a locket where you get these

18:00

things from. OK,

18:05

we're in a corridor now. So

18:07

we have a photo store as

18:09

well, so that's temperature

18:11

controlled for our photographic

18:14

collections including photo albums,

18:16

35mm slides, dark

18:22

romes, the next smell, the

18:24

chemicals. OK,

18:26

dark romes, turn on the lights. Oh

18:30

gosh. Lots of grey

18:32

boxes. Yeah, part of our photograph

18:35

collection. So in these shelves

18:39

we have film negatives and

18:41

we have I think it's over 200 photo

18:43

albums. Many

18:46

of our photographs have been digitised

18:48

and are available via CURA heritage

18:50

collections online. So anyone

18:53

can browse the photographs like we

18:55

did to choose images. How

18:57

many did you browse through?

18:59

Thousands. How long

19:01

did it take? It

19:06

took us three months to curate the

19:08

exhibition, which is short. It's a short

19:10

length of time. Usually

19:12

takes four to six months.

19:15

So will all of this

19:17

eventually be digitised? No,

19:20

like with the Reichenberg

19:22

collection for example, there's 1.5 million

19:24

negatives. So

19:27

I think there's about 9,000 online. There's

19:31

a selection process and

19:34

criteria in terms of what

19:36

gets digitised. I was

19:38

talking to my colleague the other day and

19:40

she was talking about how she

19:43

chose to select posters as

19:45

one of the first things to be

19:48

digitised from the ephemera collection because they

19:50

are so unwieldy. And then another priority

19:52

would be items that are very fragile.

19:55

So if there's an online version of

19:57

it, then that is true.

20:00

Yeah, reduces handling for that precious item

20:02

such as Like

20:05

I'm just thinking about some of our

20:07

early ephemera like a ball program

20:09

or Probably better

20:11

called a dance card. You'd

20:14

hope that archival Protection

20:16

we provide for our items

20:18

that they wouldn't disintegrate. Yeah, yeah

20:21

having a digital vision is

20:23

very important And

20:27

people just bring these into you today, so I don't

20:29

know what to do with them. So can you take

20:31

them? Yeah, and we do

20:33

have policies around what we

20:35

do collect because what we keep

20:37

we keep forever So

20:39

we have to be careful about what we say yes to

20:47

That's all for the week I'm

20:49

Sharon Brekkalie and thanks to Zoe

20:51

Colling now if you're interested in

20:53

looking at the exhibition It's on

20:55

Auckland Central City Library until the

20:57

13th of July The

20:59

detail is funded by RNZ

21:01

and NZ on Air. This episode was

21:04

engineered by Ben Perf and The

21:06

Venus Zimmer and Gwen McClure produced it.

21:08

Kaki te ano

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