Episode Transcript
Transcripts are displayed as originally observed. Some content, including advertisements may have changed.
Use Ctrl + F to search
0:01
Hi everyone, it's Chloe and I'm so excited
0:03
to share something fabulous with you, Vogue's
0:05
first ever global fashion community, Vogue Club. Our
0:08
members get to mingle with Vogue editors,
0:11
yes, including me, and fellow fashion enthusiasts
0:13
at exclusive events around the world. And
0:16
that's just the start. Membership
0:18
opens doors to the fashion industry, bringing
0:20
you expert career advice and insider style
0:22
and beauty tips. What are
0:24
you waiting for? Head over to vogue.com/membership
0:27
to join, and here's a little treat.
0:29
Use code TRT20 and
0:32
snag 20% off your membership. That's
0:34
TRT20 for 20% off your ticket
0:37
to Vogue Club. Are you in?
0:45
This is the run-through. I'm Chloe Mel. And
0:47
I'm Jo Mennady, and the end of the
0:50
year is really upon us. What? I
0:52
know Raven Smith, our columnist,
0:54
wrote a very funny piece called
0:57
the Ludacrisly Capacious Year of 2023,
0:59
and with a reference
1:01
to the succession for Brabray Bag
1:03
that we all know and love.
1:05
But it's true that 2023 feels
1:07
like an extremely long
1:10
and packed year from
1:13
many different angles. And this week, Jo
1:15
and I had so much fun, we talked
1:18
to Nicole Phelps and Virginia Smith about what
1:20
fashion moments of 2023 really stood
1:22
out for them and what
1:25
they're happy to forget, what they will
1:27
always remember. And
1:29
I think we all had a lot to
1:31
say and a lot of fun discussing. So
1:33
stay tuned for that. But first, Jo-Ma,
1:37
tell me about what a holiday break
1:39
means for you. Some
1:41
time to sleep. Yeah,
1:44
I feel like we're all feeling a bit
1:47
of like end of year fatigue. Yeah, what
1:49
an intensia. So
1:51
I'm ready to sort of take
1:53
some time offline. I'm
1:56
going to be spending the holidays with my
1:58
family in the UK. nephews,
2:00
my brother, my aunt, my sister-in-law,
2:02
it's going to be very festive.
2:05
The UK is super festive. I'm looking in front
2:07
of me, there is an ice rink right in
2:09
front of my window in
2:11
Hanover Square. And there
2:14
are trees lit up everywhere. I feel
2:17
like when it comes to Christmas, like London
2:19
wins at Christmas. It is just
2:21
you can't move for festive spirit. I
2:25
know I do feel like I have dreams
2:27
of going to London at Christmas time one
2:29
day. New York at Christmas is a delight.
2:33
What are your plans? Well, this weekend,
2:35
I mean, at 8am, because that's what
2:37
happens when your children wake up at
2:39
6.30am, Arthur and I went on an
2:41
expedition to see the tree
2:43
at Rockefeller Center, which he couldn't care less about. Oh, fun.
2:46
He was like, okay, it's a tree.
2:49
But we were excited to watch the
2:51
ice skaters. And he calls it the
2:53
Rocka Rocka Center, which frankly is more
2:56
appealing. And then I'm going
2:58
to Los Angeles with our whole crew
3:00
and I have family there and my
3:02
mom will be there and my- You
3:05
grew up there. I grew up there. My mom
3:07
and I are taking Arthur to Disneyland, which he's
3:09
probably- Oh my God. We could wait like two
3:12
years, but my mother's more excited than anyone. So
3:14
we are going as a group and
3:17
we are very excited. And Arthur has
3:19
said he's most excited to see Maleficent,
3:21
which I think shows some real fashion
3:23
forward notes on his
3:25
part. Oh, you know what I
3:27
wanted to talk about, which is Vogue
3:30
Runway was inspired by The Athletic, the
3:32
New York Times Sports
3:34
website did a poll of like 100
3:37
industry insiders on their favorite sports games
3:39
of the year and blah, blah, blah.
3:41
And that inspired Nicole Phelps and the
3:44
runway team to do a similar poll
3:47
for Vogue Runway of the- I took
3:49
that poll. I know
3:51
we all did and we loved
3:53
it. And they really, Jose Creales-Unzuita
3:57
are esteemed often. the
4:00
run-through contributor, was the
4:02
master of the poll and wrote it up.
4:04
And he really went out to over
4:07
100 industry insiders. And it's
4:10
very revealing. Favorite collection of the year was
4:12
far and away. Prada Spring 24. Favorite
4:15
designer of the year by a long shot
4:17
was Jonathan Anderson, which I thought was really
4:19
interesting. Most underrated
4:22
designer was Martine Rose, Choma's
4:24
favorite. This
4:27
is kind of like a mini CFDA. The People's
4:29
Choice CFDA. Yeah,
4:32
I'm going to have to go
4:34
through that with a fine tooth
4:36
comb. I know. It's amazing.
4:39
And then it's been really fun to see all of
4:41
the end of year content we've been doing on the
4:44
site. Hannah Jackson did a
4:46
really fun piece on the best celebrity
4:49
pap walks. And there
4:52
were some great moments to be remembering
4:54
from Jeremy Allen White's doing
4:57
push-ups on the sidewalk to
5:00
Lupita and Joshua Jackson's
5:03
relationship hard launch. Also,
5:05
Sarah Spellings did a really fun piece
5:07
on a glossary of all the microtrends
5:09
of 2023. And
5:12
that was very
5:14
funny and tongue in cheek, but also
5:17
helpful and interesting to be like the
5:19
coastal Nona versus Tomato Girl summer. I
5:21
mean, TikTok has really expanded our vocabulary
5:23
in a way that maybe I could
5:26
do without. But nevertheless.
5:29
I know. On the other end of
5:31
that, which I thought was quite impressive, Emily
5:33
Chan on the British Vogue team here,
5:35
she did a story about only buying five items
5:37
of clothing. I know. I couldn't believe that. I saw
5:39
that this weekend. Emily's
5:41
been such a champion for
5:43
all of our sustainability content. And
5:46
she does all the coverage on COP
5:48
and is constantly in contact with designers
5:50
who are kind of leading the way
5:53
as far as sustainability. Yeah,
5:55
she set herself a really difficult
5:57
challenge. And. Wow,
6:00
like reading about it was quite impressive
6:02
because I definitely would fail within a
6:04
month or
6:07
two at least. I can't imagine. No, I mean it's hard.
6:09
I also want to know if like things
6:11
people give her count, does vintage count? Anyway, I
6:13
haven't read the piece yet, but I'm very excited
6:15
about it and have a lot of questions. So
6:17
I'm glad that I'm not the only one who's
6:19
engaged and that it's been a big,
6:22
a runaway hit. The
6:29
run through will be back in just a moment. Hi,
6:46
it's Kelsey McKinney from Normal Gossip.
6:49
At long last we are returning
6:51
for a new season with stories
6:53
about bachelorette parties and city politics
6:55
and rental houses gone wrong. New
6:57
episodes will start dropping October 18th,
6:59
but you didn't hear that from
7:01
me. Normal Gossip from Defector
7:03
and Radiotopia can be found wherever
7:05
you listen to podcasts. And
7:13
we're back. So some of
7:15
our most listened to episodes on the run
7:18
through were with, actually with our colleagues,
7:20
Nicole Phelps, who is the global director
7:22
of Vogue Runway and Virginia Smith, who's
7:24
Vogue's global head of fashion. And
7:26
my favorite conversations have always been
7:29
with them, honestly. So I was really happy
7:31
to see our listeners. We're
7:33
just as excited about hearing them
7:36
talk about fashion as I was. So we thought
7:38
we'd bring them back on the show to talk about all
7:41
the fashion that took the world by storm this
7:43
year. And we also got to hear
7:45
from some of our other friends from around the Vogue
7:47
offices around the world. Choma, I'm curious,
7:49
what fashion do you want to leave in
7:52
2023? I'm
7:54
ready to let go of quiet luxury. I'm
7:56
not a quiet girl. So no, thank you.
7:58
So I'm ready to bring in some. like
8:00
something with a bit of noise to it. Maybe
8:03
something embellished or something that makes
8:05
noise when you walk like Erika
8:07
Badu likes, just not quiet
8:10
luxury. Thank you. No,
8:12
how dare you? How dare you? It's
8:17
someone who loves boring
8:19
quiet luxury and has been dressing like
8:22
that for years. It's a
8:24
mainstay in my wardrobe. Nicole,
8:28
quiet luxury? Yeah, I would say
8:30
I'm probably a quiet luxury girl myself
8:32
too. So who do we think was
8:35
the standout designer this year? I
8:37
think Mattu Blase, the designer, is a
8:39
personal favorite of probably all of ours.
8:43
Nicole, you did such an incredible talk
8:45
with him at Forces of Fashion this year.
8:47
You know, there's an intelligence.
8:50
He's also very nice, very
8:52
handsome, and just seems
8:54
very charming and just seems to really
8:57
looking at design in a very intelligent
8:59
way, but also doesn't not taking it
9:02
too, too seriously, except in terms of
9:04
craftsmanship. But he's just really
9:08
adorable and sort of fabulous. Agree.
9:11
Hard agree. Well, everyone loved Nicole and
9:14
Mattu's talk. I feel like that was the
9:16
winner from Forces of Fashion. Agree. A hard
9:19
agree. It was so good. Have other
9:21
designers really
9:23
won 2023, so to speak? Who would
9:26
you say it was like their year? I
9:29
mean, NEMU has been so influential for
9:31
the past few years. So I mean, it's pretty
9:33
incredible, the influence
9:35
you've seen from Mucho Prada
9:37
on the runway. I feel like people are actually wearing
9:40
no pants. Out. People are wearing
9:42
that. It's a thing. It's a real
9:44
thing. I completely thought it would just
9:46
be runway to editorial. And it's like
9:48
even Claire Ford today, who I don't think of
9:51
as a particular red
9:53
carpet renegade, and she was a pantless and
9:55
Prada. Do you think that's
9:57
what we're going to be seeing? Are you seeing it a party
9:59
season out in the the world. I still kind
10:01
of seen a couple of people kind of
10:03
wearing it. Like, you know, civilians,
10:05
have you seen any? No, I've really only
10:08
seen it on the red carpet, except for
10:10
Kendall Warrett, civilian in. Yeah, I
10:12
think the civilian equivalent is all of
10:14
the, you know,
10:16
like the jog bras and the Lycra
10:18
bike shorts that women have been wearing
10:20
on the city streets,
10:22
you know, since COVID. This
10:25
everybody's in exercise clothes, everybody is
10:27
showing off their body and, you
10:31
know, maybe those bikers short those, you know, the
10:33
tight bikers shorts will just keep getting shorter. Prediction
10:36
for 2020 for shorter bikes.
10:38
So many little baby hot pants weren't there all
10:41
over. That was the one trend
10:43
I probably am going to leave for other people
10:45
to try. Yeah, we didn't really like that
10:47
trend on the on the spring 24 runway.
10:51
Note to designers. So
10:59
these are some of the trends on the streets
11:01
of New York. But before we move on, here's
11:03
what happened in 2023 overseas. Hi,
11:09
I'm Francesca from Vogitalia, the
11:11
head of editorial content. The
11:14
trend I saw in 2023 in
11:16
Italy is an iconic one. It's
11:19
like dressing as a Milanese Shura,
11:21
that I think like old ladies,
11:23
it's actually pretty cool. You always
11:26
want to dress like a Shura
11:28
with like this gold jewelry and
11:30
a little furry and the
11:33
knit kitten heels and the
11:36
longest pencil skirt. So I
11:38
always love, love, love this.
11:45
We love Fran and we also a huge fans
11:47
of the grandma look. Now from one
11:49
of our colleagues on some of the looks you've seen
11:51
in London. Hi,
11:54
my name is Daniel Watters. I'm the
11:57
fashion writer at British Vogue. I think
11:59
this year. I've begun to
12:01
see something that I can only
12:03
really refer to as nonsense dressing,
12:06
which is the kind of young
12:08
people on TikTok or in
12:10
certain areas of London who
12:12
wear things like track shorts
12:14
with cowboy boots and some
12:16
kind of fancy dress shirt.
12:18
I'd say it's about making
12:20
strange and blase statements with
12:22
clothes, like mashing formal wear
12:24
with sportswear, high femme
12:26
with more lavish accents. What
12:33
were the biggest, most
12:35
overarching trends of 2023, would you say? I
12:38
think it was all about the concert tour this
12:41
year. I mean, I think it was less
12:43
about a red carpet and more about the concert
12:46
extravagance. I mean, starting with Rihanna
12:48
at the Super Bowl in her
12:50
fabulous Luave jumpsuit and
12:52
then continuing to Beyonce's summer runway
12:54
tour. I mean, it was just
12:57
a tour de force in fashion
12:59
and music. The concert tour was
13:01
such a phenomenon because it
13:03
created trends like
13:05
the friendship bracelets, which we wrote about in
13:07
the items of the year from Taylor
13:09
Swift. And there's like a sense
13:12
of community at these shows. And they're like
13:14
badges and codes that the fans share.
13:17
And it sort of trickles out. It feels like
13:19
a new way for trends to start
13:22
the concert. Here
13:27
is one of our Vogue Runway colleagues on the accessories
13:29
at the find 2023. I'm
13:38
Lya Garcia-Furtado and I'm a senior fashion news
13:40
editor at Vogue Runway. I feel like the
13:42
accessories of the year definitely shoes. The
13:44
first one is a Martine Rose Nike
13:46
sneaker. They're like Nike shocks, but it's
13:49
a mule and it's a really weird
13:51
color and it looks weird. And then
13:53
another shoe that I feel
13:55
like was everywhere was the Mary Jane
13:57
Flatt, specifically the designer.
14:00
version of it by Elia which was
14:02
like studded or lace were
14:04
cut or mesh or like embellished
14:07
with crystal. And then the
14:09
last shoe, it's a Marjela Tabby. Ladies of
14:11
NYC be thinking where this man is out
14:13
here on Tinder and Hinge and he will
14:15
steal from you. So this is a story
14:17
about how that fucker stole my Mary Jane Tabby's.
14:20
This year I feel like they went mainstream especially once
14:22
that girl on TikTok went on a date and they
14:25
stole her pair of Tabby's. And if
14:27
you know who he is, where he lives or
14:29
anything about him, let me know because I
14:32
deserve retribution and I want my fucking shoe
14:34
back. Does
14:41
everyone have a best red carpet look
14:43
of the year? That's a tough question
14:45
Chloe. One? Okay you
14:48
can have a couple. You can have one that pops
14:50
to mind. I'll tell you mine just because it's top
14:52
of mine. I loved Emma Corrin and the Princess
14:55
Diana inspired white tuxedo with the
14:57
sheer skirt. I just love
14:59
that they do their thing and really
15:01
dress the way they want to. And
15:04
I love Santa Miller and her bump-bearing
15:06
Schiaparelli at Vogue World. You
15:09
know Beyonce looms large in my life.
15:12
I did think she looked amazing in
15:14
the silver Versace at her film premiere
15:16
with her newly blonde hair. I mean
15:18
her Donna Telekac play. It was pretty amazing.
15:21
It was epic. Yeah
15:24
I loved Hunter
15:26
Schiaparelli especially in the
15:28
cutout peekaboo silver McQueen
15:30
by Sarah Burton. Just
15:34
incredible. She looked great. Really
15:36
great recently. Incredible. Who won
15:39
the red carpet this year? I mean Greta Lee
15:41
had amazing looks. There were so many people but
15:43
who consistently kind of nailed it. Hunter,
15:46
Greta. What about Timmy? How
15:48
does everybody feel? Someone
15:51
on our celeb style flag this morning
15:53
said that Timmy in
15:55
his shiny brown suit yesterday was dressing
15:57
as an actual chocolate bar. Oh,
16:00
he makes that one. I mean, he can
16:02
wear anything and look amazing. Yeah, method. Method
16:04
dressing. The bar is
16:06
hot. I mean, he's definitely still by far and
16:08
away the most exciting when it comes to men's.
16:11
I mean, there are lots of men who dress
16:13
well now, but I think it's
16:15
difficult to top him. I mean, poor Mascow always looks good
16:17
too. I mean, there are a few guys. And
16:20
my favorite was Virginia Smith in her
16:22
archival, Alexander McQueen. Thank
16:25
you, Nicole. No, it was it was so
16:28
amazing to wear that. And I was so
16:30
happy and so thrilled. They let me wear
16:32
it. Can you describe it? It was just
16:34
the most perfect menswear suit with this amazing
16:36
ruffle. Oh, the ruffle. I
16:39
love that so much. Yes, it was great.
16:41
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you for letting
16:43
me wear it. One of my
16:45
favorite Met looks I've ever worn, I would have to
16:47
say. That was fabulous. Fantastic. So
16:50
good. And my second vote for
16:53
Met Gala look is Kristen Stewart, who
16:55
I loved that she was in that
16:57
boyish tuxedo and
17:00
wearing flats. I
17:03
think that understatement goes a
17:05
long way, you know, in
17:07
a in a moment when everybody else
17:09
is sort of going the other direction. So I
17:11
thought she was great. And
17:17
now another great red carpet look this year. I'm
17:23
Jose. I'm a fashionist, writer of O'Brien Way.
17:25
Daniel Brooks just wore, I
17:27
think, recently a Moschino look from
17:29
the red carpet. It was
17:31
a look that wasn't precious Lee on the runway. And
17:33
I think the reason why I love this so much
17:35
was not just because it was super fab, but also
17:37
because that's why it's so important to have other
17:40
kinds of sizes on the runway. And
17:43
then actors who are not sample size can also have a
17:45
red carpet moment that is off the runway. So I love
17:47
that. I'm
17:50
very excited for the award season. Me
17:53
too. I think people are going to really go for it. Hi
18:03
there, it's Kelly Ripa and I have a
18:05
new podcast called Let's Talk Off Camera. You
18:07
might know me from your TV, but now
18:09
we're turning the cameras off and getting real.
18:12
Uncensored, unfiltered, and maybe a little
18:14
unhinged with celebs, experts, friends,
18:16
and more. Trust me,
18:18
you won't want to miss a single
18:21
episode. No lights, no camera, all
18:23
action. Listen to Let's Talk
18:25
Off Camera with Kelly Ripa wherever
18:27
you get your podcasts. Favorite
18:34
emerging designer of the year? I
18:37
think Rachel Scott of Diatima had a great
18:39
year. I mean, she was a finalist for
18:41
the Vogue CFDA Fashion Fund and then she
18:43
ended up winning emerging designer of the year
18:46
at the CFDA Awards. And
18:48
I have to say, everyone who was wearing her clothes
18:50
there I thought looked really incredible. Those
18:52
needlepoint dresses are so beautiful and
18:54
I feel like it was really a great
18:57
year for her. Yeah, I want
18:59
to give a shout out to another
19:01
New York based woman designer who is
19:03
Hilary Tamor at Colleen
19:05
Estrada. I loved everything
19:07
about the show she put on
19:10
in September, especially the
19:12
way she sent the models out.
19:14
They were walking down the runway
19:16
with the very weird, almost psychotic
19:18
smile and then they turned around
19:20
and put on this frown and
19:22
the theatre of it was really
19:24
great. And I just really
19:26
respect everything that she's trying to do
19:28
to make a collection that
19:30
is sustainable, but also so much fun
19:33
and so full of life. It's
19:35
been fun being back in London because I've gotten to reconnect
19:37
with a lot of young designers
19:40
here. But there are a
19:42
couple who I've mentioned on the show before who
19:45
I'm just getting to know and
19:47
one of them is Michael Stewart from
19:49
Standing Ground. He makes these
19:52
incredible draped couture
19:54
level dresses with very
19:57
intricate details that are almost
19:59
padded. like a padded hip or
20:02
there'll be kind of beading going through underneath
20:04
the skin of a dress so it has
20:06
this texture to it. They're just
20:08
really beautiful and special. I think
20:10
you usually associate London with kind
20:12
of a more kind of street
20:14
level kind of grit and he's
20:17
really glamorous and refined. His
20:19
clothes are so I am excited to see
20:21
what he does. Next. Yes, it
20:23
feels like somebody should wear his dresses
20:26
on the floor. Oh my god, on the back of it. The
20:29
water would be great in them. I
20:31
mean, anyone would be great in them.
20:33
They're just so beautiful. I've always loved
20:35
what Supriya Lele does and
20:38
now she's been, she's opened
20:40
up an art gallery and she's kind
20:42
of thinking outside the world of fashion. Such
20:45
a great point of view and wonderful
20:47
taste. So to see her world kind
20:49
of expand as a young
20:51
designer because I think a lot of designers are
20:53
thinking, well, what's next for me? Like how can
20:55
I kind of bring people into
20:57
my world? And I think this is a really
21:00
smart way for her to do it and it's
21:02
kind of a natural extension of what she does.
21:04
And things are tough for
21:06
young designers. I think retail isn't
21:08
an easy, stable place and you
21:11
kind of have to think creatively
21:13
and kind of lean into what
21:15
you love, right? Because that's so
21:18
important now to kind of feel like you're
21:20
doing your hearts in it. And you can
21:22
just tell that she puts her heart and
21:24
soul into all of it. So
21:26
I'm excited by her. Hi,
21:36
I'm Christian Alaire. I'm Bogue's senior fashion
21:38
writer and my favorite designer of the
21:41
year was an emerging designer called
21:43
John Tae-Kam. He's a Plains Cree
21:45
designer from Saskatchewan and he does
21:47
a lot of sort of avant-garde
21:49
sculptural gowns made out of ribbons
21:51
and feathers sort of nodding
21:53
back to his indigenous roots and I think he's
21:55
going to be a big star in the future.
21:57
So, that's all. Nicole,
22:04
you had a piece come out from Vogue
22:06
Runway that Mark Holgate wrote that I
22:08
think he writes every year on what
22:11
actually sold this year. And he
22:13
interviews a lot of retailers, and
22:15
it's always interesting to see what
22:18
translates from the runways into people's
22:20
closets. Yes. It's sort of
22:22
another way of talking about where
22:24
trends are coming from. You know,
22:26
if they're coming from Beyonce and
22:28
Taylor Swift's tour. They're also coming
22:30
from small underground,
22:32
not that well-known designers
22:35
around the world. Dusan is one
22:38
that I think a couple of
22:40
retailers name-checked. And
22:43
that's a name that I wasn't
22:46
really very familiar with. It turns
22:48
out that the person who's doing
22:50
that collection worked for
22:52
Zoran many, many years ago.
22:56
My mom wears a lot of Zoran. And
22:59
so talking about quiet luxury, sort of
23:01
exemplary of that trend. And there's
23:03
many, many more labels that Mark talked
23:06
about with these different retailers
23:08
that I had never heard of. So
23:10
for me, it's like a real education.
23:12
And interesting to learn that retailers
23:15
are really going far off
23:17
the runway to get clothes
23:19
that are working for women.
23:22
And what does that say about the runway? It's
23:24
curious, you know? What about Model of
23:26
the Year? Model of the Year was
23:28
Maggie Smith and the Luavey ad. Absolutely.
23:30
I mean, brilliant. That
23:33
was amazing. I think my Models of the Year would
23:35
be both Paloma and
23:37
Anok because they both
23:39
had such amazing years. And they're both such
23:41
– I mean, there are so many great models.
23:44
It's difficult to pick favorites. We should probably mention
23:46
Daria, who made her comeback at Gucci. Oh, yeah,
23:48
Daria's comeback. Surprising everyone because
23:50
we all thought she would come
23:52
back for Phoebe. And
23:55
Daria and Sabato at Gucci were friends
23:57
20 years ago when they were both
23:59
– starting out in the industry and
24:01
Sabato was an assistant in the pattern
24:03
makers studio at Prada and that's how
24:05
they got to know each other. I
24:07
guess they've been friends or close
24:10
ever since and so he asked her to
24:12
be in his first campaign. That was
24:14
a very good one. What about designers
24:16
we lost or designer exits of the year?
24:18
I'm thinking of Sarah Burton and McQueen which
24:21
was I think very emotional for everyone and
24:23
people felt very strongly about
24:26
the end of a really exquisite era perhaps.
24:28
Yeah, that's a hard one just because I
24:31
think we've all loved what
24:33
Sarah has done there for so many
24:35
years but as someone pointed out,
24:38
it's certainly not the
24:40
end of Sarah Burton and I think it
24:42
will be really amazing to see what
24:45
she does on her own without the history
24:47
of McQueen and I'm excited to
24:49
see what she does next. But obviously
24:51
that sparked a lot of controversy
24:53
in terms of having
24:56
so many male creative directors at the
24:58
top of houses and the lack
25:00
of female creative directors at so many houses.
25:02
So that's certainly a topic that
25:04
we have been discussing in the
25:07
last few months. Hi
25:14
I'm Laura Ingham, the deputy director
25:16
of the Global Fashion Network here
25:18
at Vogue. I think that the
25:20
very sad passing of Dame Vivian
25:22
Westwood in December 2022 had a
25:24
huge impact
25:27
on the collections that we saw and worked
25:30
with in February and March this year and
25:33
then subsequently shot over
25:35
the pages of Vogue and globally
25:38
this summer. I think you know
25:40
of course we all know
25:42
and love her provocative and
25:45
punk aesthetic and to see
25:47
that influence and her influence
25:49
and her legacy sort of
25:52
trickling through the collections in
25:54
March this year was really
25:56
inspiring and one that I'll
25:59
remember as well. redefining the
26:02
movement and the trends that we work towards
26:04
and the stages and the fashion that we put together
26:06
this year. This
26:18
year we talked about a lot of runway shows that
26:20
we loved and here are a few more that really
26:22
stood out. Hi my
26:25
name is Carla Martinez de Salas. I'm the
26:27
head of content for Vogue Mexico and Latin
26:29
America. Personally one of
26:31
my favorite shows and one of the most emotional
26:33
shows I would say was Willie
26:36
Chavarria's last show in
26:38
downtown Manhattan where the entire
26:42
soundtrack was Latin
26:44
songs that really reminded me of what
26:46
my parents used to listen to when
26:48
I was growing up and just those
26:50
beautiful jackets with the roses. I
26:53
kind of felt like I was in like 1960s ballroom
26:55
in Mexico. Hi
26:59
it's Laird Borelli-Person the archive
27:01
editor at Vogue runway. I
27:04
will say Duran Lanting who
27:07
shows in Paris and who
27:09
is doing wonderful things in
27:11
my opinion with silhouettes, padding,
27:13
odd shapes, things that really
27:15
make you think and
27:17
force us to look at the body in new
27:19
ways. I also loved
27:22
Luar Show in September just
27:24
seeing the energy in the room. It
27:27
was eight o'clock we were out in Bushwick. He
27:30
came out and he was emotional and had tears
27:32
in his eyes and those two
27:34
designers the fact that they're so in
27:37
tune with their roots and where
27:39
they come from I think is the goal. What
27:50
about Favorite Runway this year? Either shows
27:52
or runway look? Is there any that
27:54
stands out? Well I was not there
27:56
and I was very limb and lipped
27:58
as our colleague Hamish Bullock. would say.
28:00
I wish I would have been at Pharrell's debut in
28:02
VCon because it did look like such an
28:10
amazing, amazing show.
28:13
And that's what it was, a real show. I
28:15
mean, it really brought back drama,
28:18
performance, excitement. That's a good point.
28:20
We didn't touch on that. It's
28:23
rare that I find that fashion
28:25
shows trans really bleed
28:27
into other culture. I had sort of friends
28:30
with my husband being like, oh, what was
28:32
that? What was happening? And so it's nice
28:34
when you feel that relevancy. Now
28:41
let's check gears and talk about the Vogue covers we
28:43
love this year. This is one we
28:45
definitely can't forget. Hi,
28:49
my name is Willow Lindley. I am
28:51
the fashion market and collaborations director here
28:53
at Vogue and Margot Robbie in
28:55
her role for Barbie styled by
28:58
Gabriela Krieffer-Johnson and shot by Ethan
29:00
James Green. That was a
29:02
super fun shoot. Gab and
29:04
I, we hadn't been able
29:06
to see more than about five minutes
29:09
of part of the film. And we
29:11
were deep in Reddit forums about spoilers
29:13
and any sort of hints and
29:15
tips we could get from people
29:18
out there trying to build this
29:20
story in this sort of futuristic
29:22
world of Barbie, finding that perfect
29:24
balance between humor and seriousness and
29:26
celebrating the actress as well as
29:28
the subject was really well accomplished. Yeah,
29:31
Barbie felt like such a fun cover. There were a lot
29:33
of good ones. I loved Erica too. I thought
29:35
Erica was beautiful. And obviously, like, you
29:38
know, you and I spent time with Badu.
29:41
She's a fun,
29:43
I mean, her objects of affection video goes
29:45
down in history. You mean any
29:47
Badudio? In the Badudio. I mean,
29:50
amazing. Amazing. I have to say the end
29:53
of the year with Nicki Minaj is also
29:55
sort of a heartfelt favorite too. I mean,
29:57
it was her first Vogue cover and that's always
29:59
so special for anyone. And we did
30:01
a Zoom with her. Shumu, were you
30:04
on that? It was Anna and
30:06
I did a Zoom with her. Yeah, well, in
30:08
the beginning, she was so excited. She was so
30:10
excited. She said she cried when she heard, you
30:12
know. Aww. And it was so sweet.
30:14
And the response to it, and also
30:16
Erica, the response to that cover was
30:18
pretty incredible to both. So it's just
30:21
so nice when that happens.
30:27
All right. That's it for this episode.
30:29
Thank you, guys. So we're
30:34
hearing from you guys about what made fashion great
30:36
in 2023. And we can't
30:38
wait to see what we are all wearing or not wearing in
30:40
2024. Yes. And we'll be back
30:43
next week with an exciting
30:46
episode. Happy holidays. The
30:52
Rum for Revoke is a production of Condé
30:55
Nast Entertainment. The show is
30:57
produced by Susie Lechtenberg, Kelsey Daniel,
30:59
and Alex Johnburn. It's engineered by
31:01
Jake Loomis and Gabe Kiroga and
31:03
mixed by Mike Cutron. See
31:06
you soon. Bye. Hey,
31:19
listeners. Chloe here. If you need
31:21
to stay as up to date
31:23
with the latest developments and innovations
31:25
in the luxury industry as I
31:27
do, you need to dive into
31:29
Vogue Business. Use your ticket to
31:31
a global perspective on fashion and
31:33
beauty, delivering exclusive insights that will
31:35
give you the edge in this
31:37
competitive dynamic industry. Just visit voguebusiness.com
31:39
today and use the code Run20
31:41
at checkout to join the Vogue
31:43
Business community. That's voguebusiness.com promo code
31:45
RUN20. Don't miss out.
Podchaser is the ultimate destination for podcast data, search, and discovery. Learn More