Podchaser Logo
Home
Vogue Editors on the Best Fashion of 2023

Vogue Editors on the Best Fashion of 2023

Released Thursday, 21st December 2023
Good episode? Give it some love!
Vogue Editors on the Best Fashion of 2023

Vogue Editors on the Best Fashion of 2023

Vogue Editors on the Best Fashion of 2023

Vogue Editors on the Best Fashion of 2023

Thursday, 21st December 2023
Good episode? Give it some love!
Rate Episode

Episode Transcript

Transcripts are displayed as originally observed. Some content, including advertisements may have changed.

Use Ctrl + F to search

0:01

Hi everyone, it's Chloe and I'm so excited

0:03

to share something fabulous with you, Vogue's

0:05

first ever global fashion community, Vogue Club. Our

0:08

members get to mingle with Vogue editors,

0:11

yes, including me, and fellow fashion enthusiasts

0:13

at exclusive events around the world. And

0:16

that's just the start. Membership

0:18

opens doors to the fashion industry, bringing

0:20

you expert career advice and insider style

0:22

and beauty tips. What are

0:24

you waiting for? Head over to vogue.com/membership

0:27

to join, and here's a little treat.

0:29

Use code TRT20 and

0:32

snag 20% off your membership. That's

0:34

TRT20 for 20% off your ticket

0:37

to Vogue Club. Are you in?

0:45

This is the run-through. I'm Chloe Mel. And

0:47

I'm Jo Mennady, and the end of the

0:50

year is really upon us. What? I

0:52

know Raven Smith, our columnist,

0:54

wrote a very funny piece called

0:57

the Ludacrisly Capacious Year of 2023,

0:59

and with a reference

1:01

to the succession for Brabray Bag

1:03

that we all know and love.

1:05

But it's true that 2023 feels

1:07

like an extremely long

1:10

and packed year from

1:13

many different angles. And this week, Jo

1:15

and I had so much fun, we talked

1:18

to Nicole Phelps and Virginia Smith about what

1:20

fashion moments of 2023 really stood

1:22

out for them and what

1:25

they're happy to forget, what they will

1:27

always remember. And

1:29

I think we all had a lot to

1:31

say and a lot of fun discussing. So

1:33

stay tuned for that. But first, Jo-Ma,

1:37

tell me about what a holiday break

1:39

means for you. Some

1:41

time to sleep. Yeah,

1:44

I feel like we're all feeling a bit

1:47

of like end of year fatigue. Yeah, what

1:49

an intensia. So

1:51

I'm ready to sort of take

1:53

some time offline. I'm

1:56

going to be spending the holidays with my

1:58

family in the UK. nephews,

2:00

my brother, my aunt, my sister-in-law,

2:02

it's going to be very festive.

2:05

The UK is super festive. I'm looking in front

2:07

of me, there is an ice rink right in

2:09

front of my window in

2:11

Hanover Square. And there

2:14

are trees lit up everywhere. I feel

2:17

like when it comes to Christmas, like London

2:19

wins at Christmas. It is just

2:21

you can't move for festive spirit. I

2:25

know I do feel like I have dreams

2:27

of going to London at Christmas time one

2:29

day. New York at Christmas is a delight.

2:33

What are your plans? Well, this weekend,

2:35

I mean, at 8am, because that's what

2:37

happens when your children wake up at

2:39

6.30am, Arthur and I went on an

2:41

expedition to see the tree

2:43

at Rockefeller Center, which he couldn't care less about. Oh, fun.

2:46

He was like, okay, it's a tree.

2:49

But we were excited to watch the

2:51

ice skaters. And he calls it the

2:53

Rocka Rocka Center, which frankly is more

2:56

appealing. And then I'm going

2:58

to Los Angeles with our whole crew

3:00

and I have family there and my

3:02

mom will be there and my- You

3:05

grew up there. I grew up there. My mom

3:07

and I are taking Arthur to Disneyland, which he's

3:09

probably- Oh my God. We could wait like two

3:12

years, but my mother's more excited than anyone. So

3:14

we are going as a group and

3:17

we are very excited. And Arthur has

3:19

said he's most excited to see Maleficent,

3:21

which I think shows some real fashion

3:23

forward notes on his

3:25

part. Oh, you know what I

3:27

wanted to talk about, which is Vogue

3:30

Runway was inspired by The Athletic, the

3:32

New York Times Sports

3:34

website did a poll of like 100

3:37

industry insiders on their favorite sports games

3:39

of the year and blah, blah, blah.

3:41

And that inspired Nicole Phelps and the

3:44

runway team to do a similar poll

3:47

for Vogue Runway of the- I took

3:49

that poll. I know

3:51

we all did and we loved

3:53

it. And they really, Jose Creales-Unzuita

3:57

are esteemed often. the

4:00

run-through contributor, was the

4:02

master of the poll and wrote it up.

4:04

And he really went out to over

4:07

100 industry insiders. And it's

4:10

very revealing. Favorite collection of the year was

4:12

far and away. Prada Spring 24. Favorite

4:15

designer of the year by a long shot

4:17

was Jonathan Anderson, which I thought was really

4:19

interesting. Most underrated

4:22

designer was Martine Rose, Choma's

4:24

favorite. This

4:27

is kind of like a mini CFDA. The People's

4:29

Choice CFDA. Yeah,

4:32

I'm going to have to go

4:34

through that with a fine tooth

4:36

comb. I know. It's amazing.

4:39

And then it's been really fun to see all of

4:41

the end of year content we've been doing on the

4:44

site. Hannah Jackson did a

4:46

really fun piece on the best celebrity

4:49

pap walks. And there

4:52

were some great moments to be remembering

4:54

from Jeremy Allen White's doing

4:57

push-ups on the sidewalk to

5:00

Lupita and Joshua Jackson's

5:03

relationship hard launch. Also,

5:05

Sarah Spellings did a really fun piece

5:07

on a glossary of all the microtrends

5:09

of 2023. And

5:12

that was very

5:14

funny and tongue in cheek, but also

5:17

helpful and interesting to be like the

5:19

coastal Nona versus Tomato Girl summer. I

5:21

mean, TikTok has really expanded our vocabulary

5:23

in a way that maybe I could

5:26

do without. But nevertheless.

5:29

I know. On the other end of

5:31

that, which I thought was quite impressive, Emily

5:33

Chan on the British Vogue team here,

5:35

she did a story about only buying five items

5:37

of clothing. I know. I couldn't believe that. I saw

5:39

that this weekend. Emily's

5:41

been such a champion for

5:43

all of our sustainability content. And

5:46

she does all the coverage on COP

5:48

and is constantly in contact with designers

5:50

who are kind of leading the way

5:53

as far as sustainability. Yeah,

5:55

she set herself a really difficult

5:57

challenge. And. Wow,

6:00

like reading about it was quite impressive

6:02

because I definitely would fail within a

6:04

month or

6:07

two at least. I can't imagine. No, I mean it's hard.

6:09

I also want to know if like things

6:11

people give her count, does vintage count? Anyway, I

6:13

haven't read the piece yet, but I'm very excited

6:15

about it and have a lot of questions. So

6:17

I'm glad that I'm not the only one who's

6:19

engaged and that it's been a big,

6:22

a runaway hit. The

6:29

run through will be back in just a moment. Hi,

6:46

it's Kelsey McKinney from Normal Gossip.

6:49

At long last we are returning

6:51

for a new season with stories

6:53

about bachelorette parties and city politics

6:55

and rental houses gone wrong. New

6:57

episodes will start dropping October 18th,

6:59

but you didn't hear that from

7:01

me. Normal Gossip from Defector

7:03

and Radiotopia can be found wherever

7:05

you listen to podcasts. And

7:13

we're back. So some of

7:15

our most listened to episodes on the run

7:18

through were with, actually with our colleagues,

7:20

Nicole Phelps, who is the global director

7:22

of Vogue Runway and Virginia Smith, who's

7:24

Vogue's global head of fashion. And

7:26

my favorite conversations have always been

7:29

with them, honestly. So I was really happy

7:31

to see our listeners. We're

7:33

just as excited about hearing them

7:36

talk about fashion as I was. So we thought

7:38

we'd bring them back on the show to talk about all

7:41

the fashion that took the world by storm this

7:43

year. And we also got to hear

7:45

from some of our other friends from around the Vogue

7:47

offices around the world. Choma, I'm curious,

7:49

what fashion do you want to leave in

7:52

2023? I'm

7:54

ready to let go of quiet luxury. I'm

7:56

not a quiet girl. So no, thank you.

7:58

So I'm ready to bring in some. like

8:00

something with a bit of noise to it. Maybe

8:03

something embellished or something that makes

8:05

noise when you walk like Erika

8:07

Badu likes, just not quiet

8:10

luxury. Thank you. No,

8:12

how dare you? How dare you? It's

8:17

someone who loves boring

8:19

quiet luxury and has been dressing like

8:22

that for years. It's a

8:24

mainstay in my wardrobe. Nicole,

8:28

quiet luxury? Yeah, I would say

8:30

I'm probably a quiet luxury girl myself

8:32

too. So who do we think was

8:35

the standout designer this year? I

8:37

think Mattu Blase, the designer, is a

8:39

personal favorite of probably all of ours.

8:43

Nicole, you did such an incredible talk

8:45

with him at Forces of Fashion this year.

8:47

You know, there's an intelligence.

8:50

He's also very nice, very

8:52

handsome, and just seems

8:54

very charming and just seems to really

8:57

looking at design in a very intelligent

8:59

way, but also doesn't not taking it

9:02

too, too seriously, except in terms of

9:04

craftsmanship. But he's just really

9:08

adorable and sort of fabulous. Agree.

9:11

Hard agree. Well, everyone loved Nicole and

9:14

Mattu's talk. I feel like that was the

9:16

winner from Forces of Fashion. Agree. A hard

9:19

agree. It was so good. Have other

9:21

designers really

9:23

won 2023, so to speak? Who would

9:26

you say it was like their year? I

9:29

mean, NEMU has been so influential for

9:31

the past few years. So I mean, it's pretty

9:33

incredible, the influence

9:35

you've seen from Mucho Prada

9:37

on the runway. I feel like people are actually wearing

9:40

no pants. Out. People are wearing

9:42

that. It's a thing. It's a real

9:44

thing. I completely thought it would just

9:46

be runway to editorial. And it's like

9:48

even Claire Ford today, who I don't think of

9:51

as a particular red

9:53

carpet renegade, and she was a pantless and

9:55

Prada. Do you think that's

9:57

what we're going to be seeing? Are you seeing it a party

9:59

season out in the the world. I still kind

10:01

of seen a couple of people kind of

10:03

wearing it. Like, you know, civilians,

10:05

have you seen any? No, I've really only

10:08

seen it on the red carpet, except for

10:10

Kendall Warrett, civilian in. Yeah, I

10:12

think the civilian equivalent is all of

10:14

the, you know,

10:16

like the jog bras and the Lycra

10:18

bike shorts that women have been wearing

10:20

on the city streets,

10:22

you know, since COVID. This

10:25

everybody's in exercise clothes, everybody is

10:27

showing off their body and, you

10:31

know, maybe those bikers short those, you know, the

10:33

tight bikers shorts will just keep getting shorter. Prediction

10:36

for 2020 for shorter bikes.

10:38

So many little baby hot pants weren't there all

10:41

over. That was the one trend

10:43

I probably am going to leave for other people

10:45

to try. Yeah, we didn't really like that

10:47

trend on the on the spring 24 runway.

10:51

Note to designers. So

10:59

these are some of the trends on the streets

11:01

of New York. But before we move on, here's

11:03

what happened in 2023 overseas. Hi,

11:09

I'm Francesca from Vogitalia, the

11:11

head of editorial content. The

11:14

trend I saw in 2023 in

11:16

Italy is an iconic one. It's

11:19

like dressing as a Milanese Shura,

11:21

that I think like old ladies,

11:23

it's actually pretty cool. You always

11:26

want to dress like a Shura

11:28

with like this gold jewelry and

11:30

a little furry and the

11:33

knit kitten heels and the

11:36

longest pencil skirt. So I

11:38

always love, love, love this.

11:45

We love Fran and we also a huge fans

11:47

of the grandma look. Now from one

11:49

of our colleagues on some of the looks you've seen

11:51

in London. Hi,

11:54

my name is Daniel Watters. I'm the

11:57

fashion writer at British Vogue. I think

11:59

this year. I've begun to

12:01

see something that I can only

12:03

really refer to as nonsense dressing,

12:06

which is the kind of young

12:08

people on TikTok or in

12:10

certain areas of London who

12:12

wear things like track shorts

12:14

with cowboy boots and some

12:16

kind of fancy dress shirt.

12:18

I'd say it's about making

12:20

strange and blase statements with

12:22

clothes, like mashing formal wear

12:24

with sportswear, high femme

12:26

with more lavish accents. What

12:33

were the biggest, most

12:35

overarching trends of 2023, would you say? I

12:38

think it was all about the concert tour this

12:41

year. I mean, I think it was less

12:43

about a red carpet and more about the concert

12:46

extravagance. I mean, starting with Rihanna

12:48

at the Super Bowl in her

12:50

fabulous Luave jumpsuit and

12:52

then continuing to Beyonce's summer runway

12:54

tour. I mean, it was just

12:57

a tour de force in fashion

12:59

and music. The concert tour was

13:01

such a phenomenon because it

13:03

created trends like

13:05

the friendship bracelets, which we wrote about in

13:07

the items of the year from Taylor

13:09

Swift. And there's like a sense

13:12

of community at these shows. And they're like

13:14

badges and codes that the fans share.

13:17

And it sort of trickles out. It feels like

13:19

a new way for trends to start

13:22

the concert. Here

13:27

is one of our Vogue Runway colleagues on the accessories

13:29

at the find 2023. I'm

13:38

Lya Garcia-Furtado and I'm a senior fashion news

13:40

editor at Vogue Runway. I feel like the

13:42

accessories of the year definitely shoes. The

13:44

first one is a Martine Rose Nike

13:46

sneaker. They're like Nike shocks, but it's

13:49

a mule and it's a really weird

13:51

color and it looks weird. And then

13:53

another shoe that I feel

13:55

like was everywhere was the Mary Jane

13:57

Flatt, specifically the designer.

14:00

version of it by Elia which was

14:02

like studded or lace were

14:04

cut or mesh or like embellished

14:07

with crystal. And then the

14:09

last shoe, it's a Marjela Tabby. Ladies of

14:11

NYC be thinking where this man is out

14:13

here on Tinder and Hinge and he will

14:15

steal from you. So this is a story

14:17

about how that fucker stole my Mary Jane Tabby's.

14:20

This year I feel like they went mainstream especially once

14:22

that girl on TikTok went on a date and they

14:25

stole her pair of Tabby's. And if

14:27

you know who he is, where he lives or

14:29

anything about him, let me know because I

14:32

deserve retribution and I want my fucking shoe

14:34

back. Does

14:41

everyone have a best red carpet look

14:43

of the year? That's a tough question

14:45

Chloe. One? Okay you

14:48

can have a couple. You can have one that pops

14:50

to mind. I'll tell you mine just because it's top

14:52

of mine. I loved Emma Corrin and the Princess

14:55

Diana inspired white tuxedo with the

14:57

sheer skirt. I just love

14:59

that they do their thing and really

15:01

dress the way they want to. And

15:04

I love Santa Miller and her bump-bearing

15:06

Schiaparelli at Vogue World. You

15:09

know Beyonce looms large in my life.

15:12

I did think she looked amazing in

15:14

the silver Versace at her film premiere

15:16

with her newly blonde hair. I mean

15:18

her Donna Telekac play. It was pretty amazing.

15:21

It was epic. Yeah

15:24

I loved Hunter

15:26

Schiaparelli especially in the

15:28

cutout peekaboo silver McQueen

15:30

by Sarah Burton. Just

15:34

incredible. She looked great. Really

15:36

great recently. Incredible. Who won

15:39

the red carpet this year? I mean Greta Lee

15:41

had amazing looks. There were so many people but

15:43

who consistently kind of nailed it. Hunter,

15:46

Greta. What about Timmy? How

15:48

does everybody feel? Someone

15:51

on our celeb style flag this morning

15:53

said that Timmy in

15:55

his shiny brown suit yesterday was dressing

15:57

as an actual chocolate bar. Oh,

16:00

he makes that one. I mean, he can

16:02

wear anything and look amazing. Yeah, method. Method

16:04

dressing. The bar is

16:06

hot. I mean, he's definitely still by far and

16:08

away the most exciting when it comes to men's.

16:11

I mean, there are lots of men who dress

16:13

well now, but I think it's

16:15

difficult to top him. I mean, poor Mascow always looks good

16:17

too. I mean, there are a few guys. And

16:20

my favorite was Virginia Smith in her

16:22

archival, Alexander McQueen. Thank

16:25

you, Nicole. No, it was it was so

16:28

amazing to wear that. And I was so

16:30

happy and so thrilled. They let me wear

16:32

it. Can you describe it? It was just

16:34

the most perfect menswear suit with this amazing

16:36

ruffle. Oh, the ruffle. I

16:39

love that so much. Yes, it was great.

16:41

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you for letting

16:43

me wear it. One of my

16:45

favorite Met looks I've ever worn, I would have to

16:47

say. That was fabulous. Fantastic. So

16:50

good. And my second vote for

16:53

Met Gala look is Kristen Stewart, who

16:55

I loved that she was in that

16:57

boyish tuxedo and

17:00

wearing flats. I

17:03

think that understatement goes a

17:05

long way, you know, in

17:07

a in a moment when everybody else

17:09

is sort of going the other direction. So I

17:11

thought she was great. And

17:17

now another great red carpet look this year. I'm

17:23

Jose. I'm a fashionist, writer of O'Brien Way.

17:25

Daniel Brooks just wore, I

17:27

think, recently a Moschino look from

17:29

the red carpet. It was

17:31

a look that wasn't precious Lee on the runway. And

17:33

I think the reason why I love this so much

17:35

was not just because it was super fab, but also

17:37

because that's why it's so important to have other

17:40

kinds of sizes on the runway. And

17:43

then actors who are not sample size can also have a

17:45

red carpet moment that is off the runway. So I love

17:47

that. I'm

17:50

very excited for the award season. Me

17:53

too. I think people are going to really go for it. Hi

18:03

there, it's Kelly Ripa and I have a

18:05

new podcast called Let's Talk Off Camera. You

18:07

might know me from your TV, but now

18:09

we're turning the cameras off and getting real.

18:12

Uncensored, unfiltered, and maybe a little

18:14

unhinged with celebs, experts, friends,

18:16

and more. Trust me,

18:18

you won't want to miss a single

18:21

episode. No lights, no camera, all

18:23

action. Listen to Let's Talk

18:25

Off Camera with Kelly Ripa wherever

18:27

you get your podcasts. Favorite

18:34

emerging designer of the year? I

18:37

think Rachel Scott of Diatima had a great

18:39

year. I mean, she was a finalist for

18:41

the Vogue CFDA Fashion Fund and then she

18:43

ended up winning emerging designer of the year

18:46

at the CFDA Awards. And

18:48

I have to say, everyone who was wearing her clothes

18:50

there I thought looked really incredible. Those

18:52

needlepoint dresses are so beautiful and

18:54

I feel like it was really a great

18:57

year for her. Yeah, I want

18:59

to give a shout out to another

19:01

New York based woman designer who is

19:03

Hilary Tamor at Colleen

19:05

Estrada. I loved everything

19:07

about the show she put on

19:10

in September, especially the

19:12

way she sent the models out.

19:14

They were walking down the runway

19:16

with the very weird, almost psychotic

19:18

smile and then they turned around

19:20

and put on this frown and

19:22

the theatre of it was really

19:24

great. And I just really

19:26

respect everything that she's trying to do

19:28

to make a collection that

19:30

is sustainable, but also so much fun

19:33

and so full of life. It's

19:35

been fun being back in London because I've gotten to reconnect

19:37

with a lot of young designers

19:40

here. But there are a

19:42

couple who I've mentioned on the show before who

19:45

I'm just getting to know and

19:47

one of them is Michael Stewart from

19:49

Standing Ground. He makes these

19:52

incredible draped couture

19:54

level dresses with very

19:57

intricate details that are almost

19:59

padded. like a padded hip or

20:02

there'll be kind of beading going through underneath

20:04

the skin of a dress so it has

20:06

this texture to it. They're just

20:08

really beautiful and special. I think

20:10

you usually associate London with kind

20:12

of a more kind of street

20:14

level kind of grit and he's

20:17

really glamorous and refined. His

20:19

clothes are so I am excited to see

20:21

what he does. Next. Yes, it

20:23

feels like somebody should wear his dresses

20:26

on the floor. Oh my god, on the back of it. The

20:29

water would be great in them. I

20:31

mean, anyone would be great in them.

20:33

They're just so beautiful. I've always loved

20:35

what Supriya Lele does and

20:38

now she's been, she's opened

20:40

up an art gallery and she's kind

20:42

of thinking outside the world of fashion. Such

20:45

a great point of view and wonderful

20:47

taste. So to see her world kind

20:49

of expand as a young

20:51

designer because I think a lot of designers are

20:53

thinking, well, what's next for me? Like how can

20:55

I kind of bring people into

20:57

my world? And I think this is a really

21:00

smart way for her to do it and it's

21:02

kind of a natural extension of what she does.

21:04

And things are tough for

21:06

young designers. I think retail isn't

21:08

an easy, stable place and you

21:11

kind of have to think creatively

21:13

and kind of lean into what

21:15

you love, right? Because that's so

21:18

important now to kind of feel like you're

21:20

doing your hearts in it. And you can

21:22

just tell that she puts her heart and

21:24

soul into all of it. So

21:26

I'm excited by her. Hi,

21:36

I'm Christian Alaire. I'm Bogue's senior fashion

21:38

writer and my favorite designer of the

21:41

year was an emerging designer called

21:43

John Tae-Kam. He's a Plains Cree

21:45

designer from Saskatchewan and he does

21:47

a lot of sort of avant-garde

21:49

sculptural gowns made out of ribbons

21:51

and feathers sort of nodding

21:53

back to his indigenous roots and I think he's

21:55

going to be a big star in the future.

21:57

So, that's all. Nicole,

22:04

you had a piece come out from Vogue

22:06

Runway that Mark Holgate wrote that I

22:08

think he writes every year on what

22:11

actually sold this year. And he

22:13

interviews a lot of retailers, and

22:15

it's always interesting to see what

22:18

translates from the runways into people's

22:20

closets. Yes. It's sort of

22:22

another way of talking about where

22:24

trends are coming from. You know,

22:26

if they're coming from Beyonce and

22:28

Taylor Swift's tour. They're also coming

22:30

from small underground,

22:32

not that well-known designers

22:35

around the world. Dusan is one

22:38

that I think a couple of

22:40

retailers name-checked. And

22:43

that's a name that I wasn't

22:46

really very familiar with. It turns

22:48

out that the person who's doing

22:50

that collection worked for

22:52

Zoran many, many years ago.

22:56

My mom wears a lot of Zoran. And

22:59

so talking about quiet luxury, sort of

23:01

exemplary of that trend. And there's

23:03

many, many more labels that Mark talked

23:06

about with these different retailers

23:08

that I had never heard of. So

23:10

for me, it's like a real education.

23:12

And interesting to learn that retailers

23:15

are really going far off

23:17

the runway to get clothes

23:19

that are working for women.

23:22

And what does that say about the runway? It's

23:24

curious, you know? What about Model of

23:26

the Year? Model of the Year was

23:28

Maggie Smith and the Luavey ad. Absolutely.

23:30

I mean, brilliant. That

23:33

was amazing. I think my Models of the Year would

23:35

be both Paloma and

23:37

Anok because they both

23:39

had such amazing years. And they're both such

23:41

– I mean, there are so many great models.

23:44

It's difficult to pick favorites. We should probably mention

23:46

Daria, who made her comeback at Gucci. Oh, yeah,

23:48

Daria's comeback. Surprising everyone because

23:50

we all thought she would come

23:52

back for Phoebe. And

23:55

Daria and Sabato at Gucci were friends

23:57

20 years ago when they were both

23:59

– starting out in the industry and

24:01

Sabato was an assistant in the pattern

24:03

makers studio at Prada and that's how

24:05

they got to know each other. I

24:07

guess they've been friends or close

24:10

ever since and so he asked her to

24:12

be in his first campaign. That was

24:14

a very good one. What about designers

24:16

we lost or designer exits of the year?

24:18

I'm thinking of Sarah Burton and McQueen which

24:21

was I think very emotional for everyone and

24:23

people felt very strongly about

24:26

the end of a really exquisite era perhaps.

24:28

Yeah, that's a hard one just because I

24:31

think we've all loved what

24:33

Sarah has done there for so many

24:35

years but as someone pointed out,

24:38

it's certainly not the

24:40

end of Sarah Burton and I think it

24:42

will be really amazing to see what

24:45

she does on her own without the history

24:47

of McQueen and I'm excited to

24:49

see what she does next. But obviously

24:51

that sparked a lot of controversy

24:53

in terms of having

24:56

so many male creative directors at the

24:58

top of houses and the lack

25:00

of female creative directors at so many houses.

25:02

So that's certainly a topic that

25:04

we have been discussing in the

25:07

last few months. Hi

25:14

I'm Laura Ingham, the deputy director

25:16

of the Global Fashion Network here

25:18

at Vogue. I think that the

25:20

very sad passing of Dame Vivian

25:22

Westwood in December 2022 had a

25:24

huge impact

25:27

on the collections that we saw and worked

25:30

with in February and March this year and

25:33

then subsequently shot over

25:35

the pages of Vogue and globally

25:38

this summer. I think you know

25:40

of course we all know

25:42

and love her provocative and

25:45

punk aesthetic and to see

25:47

that influence and her influence

25:49

and her legacy sort of

25:52

trickling through the collections in

25:54

March this year was really

25:56

inspiring and one that I'll

25:59

remember as well. redefining the

26:02

movement and the trends that we work towards

26:04

and the stages and the fashion that we put together

26:06

this year. This

26:18

year we talked about a lot of runway shows that

26:20

we loved and here are a few more that really

26:22

stood out. Hi my

26:25

name is Carla Martinez de Salas. I'm the

26:27

head of content for Vogue Mexico and Latin

26:29

America. Personally one of

26:31

my favorite shows and one of the most emotional

26:33

shows I would say was Willie

26:36

Chavarria's last show in

26:38

downtown Manhattan where the entire

26:42

soundtrack was Latin

26:44

songs that really reminded me of what

26:46

my parents used to listen to when

26:48

I was growing up and just those

26:50

beautiful jackets with the roses. I

26:53

kind of felt like I was in like 1960s ballroom

26:55

in Mexico. Hi

26:59

it's Laird Borelli-Person the archive

27:01

editor at Vogue runway. I

27:04

will say Duran Lanting who

27:07

shows in Paris and who

27:09

is doing wonderful things in

27:11

my opinion with silhouettes, padding,

27:13

odd shapes, things that really

27:15

make you think and

27:17

force us to look at the body in new

27:19

ways. I also loved

27:22

Luar Show in September just

27:24

seeing the energy in the room. It

27:27

was eight o'clock we were out in Bushwick. He

27:30

came out and he was emotional and had tears

27:32

in his eyes and those two

27:34

designers the fact that they're so in

27:37

tune with their roots and where

27:39

they come from I think is the goal. What

27:50

about Favorite Runway this year? Either shows

27:52

or runway look? Is there any that

27:54

stands out? Well I was not there

27:56

and I was very limb and lipped

27:58

as our colleague Hamish Bullock. would say.

28:00

I wish I would have been at Pharrell's debut in

28:02

VCon because it did look like such an

28:10

amazing, amazing show.

28:13

And that's what it was, a real show. I

28:15

mean, it really brought back drama,

28:18

performance, excitement. That's a good point.

28:20

We didn't touch on that. It's

28:23

rare that I find that fashion

28:25

shows trans really bleed

28:27

into other culture. I had sort of friends

28:30

with my husband being like, oh, what was

28:32

that? What was happening? And so it's nice

28:34

when you feel that relevancy. Now

28:41

let's check gears and talk about the Vogue covers we

28:43

love this year. This is one we

28:45

definitely can't forget. Hi,

28:49

my name is Willow Lindley. I am

28:51

the fashion market and collaborations director here

28:53

at Vogue and Margot Robbie in

28:55

her role for Barbie styled by

28:58

Gabriela Krieffer-Johnson and shot by Ethan

29:00

James Green. That was a

29:02

super fun shoot. Gab and

29:04

I, we hadn't been able

29:06

to see more than about five minutes

29:09

of part of the film. And we

29:11

were deep in Reddit forums about spoilers

29:13

and any sort of hints and

29:15

tips we could get from people

29:18

out there trying to build this

29:20

story in this sort of futuristic

29:22

world of Barbie, finding that perfect

29:24

balance between humor and seriousness and

29:26

celebrating the actress as well as

29:28

the subject was really well accomplished. Yeah,

29:31

Barbie felt like such a fun cover. There were a lot

29:33

of good ones. I loved Erica too. I thought

29:35

Erica was beautiful. And obviously, like, you

29:38

know, you and I spent time with Badu.

29:41

She's a fun,

29:43

I mean, her objects of affection video goes

29:45

down in history. You mean any

29:47

Badudio? In the Badudio. I mean,

29:50

amazing. Amazing. I have to say the end

29:53

of the year with Nicki Minaj is also

29:55

sort of a heartfelt favorite too. I mean,

29:57

it was her first Vogue cover and that's always

29:59

so special for anyone. And we did

30:01

a Zoom with her. Shumu, were you

30:04

on that? It was Anna and

30:06

I did a Zoom with her. Yeah, well, in

30:08

the beginning, she was so excited. She was so

30:10

excited. She said she cried when she heard, you

30:12

know. Aww. And it was so sweet.

30:14

And the response to it, and also

30:16

Erica, the response to that cover was

30:18

pretty incredible to both. So it's just

30:21

so nice when that happens.

30:27

All right. That's it for this episode.

30:29

Thank you, guys. So we're

30:34

hearing from you guys about what made fashion great

30:36

in 2023. And we can't

30:38

wait to see what we are all wearing or not wearing in

30:40

2024. Yes. And we'll be back

30:43

next week with an exciting

30:46

episode. Happy holidays. The

30:52

Rum for Revoke is a production of Condé

30:55

Nast Entertainment. The show is

30:57

produced by Susie Lechtenberg, Kelsey Daniel,

30:59

and Alex Johnburn. It's engineered by

31:01

Jake Loomis and Gabe Kiroga and

31:03

mixed by Mike Cutron. See

31:06

you soon. Bye. Hey,

31:19

listeners. Chloe here. If you need

31:21

to stay as up to date

31:23

with the latest developments and innovations

31:25

in the luxury industry as I

31:27

do, you need to dive into

31:29

Vogue Business. Use your ticket to

31:31

a global perspective on fashion and

31:33

beauty, delivering exclusive insights that will

31:35

give you the edge in this

31:37

competitive dynamic industry. Just visit voguebusiness.com

31:39

today and use the code Run20

31:41

at checkout to join the Vogue

31:43

Business community. That's voguebusiness.com promo code

31:45

RUN20. Don't miss out.

Unlock more with Podchaser Pro

  • Audience Insights
  • Contact Information
  • Demographics
  • Charts
  • Sponsor History
  • and More!
Pro Features