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Our show is supported by Whole Foods
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Market. Alright, well spring has
1:01
sprung and it is officially brunch season. I mean
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I'm Francis Lam and this is the Splendid Table
1:57
from APM. You
2:03
know, it is technically spring now,
2:05
but for a lot of the country, look,
2:07
this winter has just felt absolutely endless.
2:10
It's snowed in LA. Did you hear that?
2:13
It's snowed in LA. The
2:15
Twin Cities got like seven feet of it. And
2:18
meanwhile here in New York, it's been such a weirdly
2:20
mild winter, but it has just been
2:23
unrelentingly gray for four
2:25
months. Anyway, what I'm saying is
2:27
if winter is going to insist on sticking around We
2:30
might as well make the most of it and get cozy
2:33
with the oven on
2:33
something delicious baking inside of it So
2:36
this week we are talking with three fabulous Totally
2:40
different baking experts. We have
2:42
Chetna Macan who won millions of hearts
2:44
on the Great British Baking Show Talking about
2:46
her Indian inspired easy bakes Esteban
2:49
Castillo the man behind the beloved blog Chicano
2:52
eats will come talk about his love of Thanksgiving
2:54
sweet breads and cakes and And first,
2:57
we have one of the great gems of New York City,
3:00
the pastry chef, Natasha Pickewitz. Natasha
3:03
was for years the leader
3:05
of the sweets team at some of New York's coolest
3:07
restaurants, Alto Parrottizo and
3:09
Flora Bar, where she made a reputation
3:12
even among fellow pastry chefs for marrying
3:15
simplicity with unique flavors and
3:17
a lot of shopping at the farmer's market. Well,
3:19
her new book is written for home bakers.
3:22
It's called More Than Cake, 100 baking
3:24
recipes for pleasure and community. Hey,
3:27
chef, it's great to have you on the show.
3:29
Hi, I'm so happy
3:31
to be here. I love your
3:33
enormously filled bookshelves
3:36
behind you. Like you truly have more books than I
3:38
do.
3:39
This is actually not even
3:41
the cookbook portion of my collection,
3:44
which I keep like closer to my kitchen area.
3:47
But I love all my books.
3:49
So congratulations on having your
3:51
own to put on that pile. It's
3:53
awesome, I want to keep every single
3:56
page. And you know, one thing I think
3:58
was
3:58
so interesting about your book. as I was reading it is,
4:01
you know, you have all these recipes that have these really
4:03
unique flavor combinations that I think
4:06
would probably be exciting and thrilling
4:08
to see in a restaurant, but
4:10
you really wrote this with a home baker in mind,
4:12
it seems to me. And
4:14
I wanted to actually first ask
4:16
you about your recipe testing process because
4:20
when you were testing it, you were kind of like intentionally
4:22
trying to screw them up almost,
4:24
right? You were trying to be like, if I don't have
4:27
this, can I still make it? Like, tell
4:29
me about that whole process. Yeah,
4:33
I mean, recipe testing is such
4:36
an exhaustive, thorough kind
4:38
of meticulous process. And
4:42
I really wanted to understand how the recipes worked through
4:45
failures and through mistakes. Because
4:50
I actually feel like failures are this incredible opportunity to
4:52
sort of understand the nuances of a technique or
4:55
a genre of baking. So
4:59
not that I was intentionally trying
5:01
to mess anything up, but
5:03
I really wanted to see how things would react the
5:06
more I kind of played and messed around
5:08
with certain things. And that's everything
5:10
from taking a recipe
5:13
and scaling it up, scaling it down.
5:15
How is something going to respond when you
5:18
change batch size? How is something
5:20
going to respond when you mess around
5:22
with the temperature of ingredients, temperature
5:24
of your oven, you know, and
5:26
what the ingredients are. And I really
5:29
was curious and sometimes there
5:31
are little breakthroughs or revelations that come
5:34
from that process, you know, and
5:36
I think a lot of chefs identify with that part
5:38
of it too, is sort of these discoveries
5:41
that, you know, they don't feel
5:43
arbitrary, but they feel like you kind of
5:45
stumbled upon something magical. And I think
5:47
that comes through this sort of
5:49
process of trial and error, because
5:51
I I really wanted to respect the
5:53
reader and the home baker and
5:56
imagine the kind of situation
5:59
they might find them.
6:00
in if they forgot
6:02
to temper their butter or if they don't have
6:04
any bleached flour, but
6:06
they have a whole grain flour. How
6:08
will that affect the recipe? Because I
6:10
know that
6:13
somebody's home kitchen isn't going to really look exactly
6:16
like mine or exactly like yours. So
6:18
I wanted to create recipes that I thought
6:21
people could play around with and hopefully make their
6:23
own. Yeah. Were there any recipes that
6:25
really surprised you when you were testing this way,
6:28
like, oh, wow, I didn't realize that would actually work
6:30
or.
6:30
Well, absolutely.
6:33
I mean, you know, I have
6:35
a recipe, um, in the book and
6:38
I never, I don't use the word biscotti
6:40
in describing what the recipe is and they're
6:42
called, it's the fennel seed and chocolate
6:45
hazelnut spears. And
6:47
that was actually a really funny
6:49
one because I had made
6:51
biscotti for years years at
6:53
the Italian restaurant, Altra Paradiso.
6:56
And I was working on a recipe for the book
6:59
and in the process of scaling it down
7:01
from my giant restaurant batch size
7:03
to the home kitchen batch
7:05
size, I messed
7:08
up the quantities of the butter and the sugar. And
7:10
I didn't,
7:11
you know, do the math properly. And
7:14
there was so much butter and sugar in the cookie, they kind
7:16
of spread like lava
7:18
on the sheet pan in this way
7:20
where I I was like, oh my God, what did I do? It
7:23
looks insane.
7:25
And then I let it cool and I took a little
7:27
nibble and I was like, oh my gosh, this
7:29
is the most delicious thing.
7:33
And it actually, butter is not
7:35
a traditional ingredient in biscotti,
7:37
usually you don't see butter at all, but I
7:40
really loved how it made this kind of
7:42
melt in your mouth texture with
7:44
this kind of crisp buttery cookie.
7:47
So I kind of stayed with it. And I was
7:49
like, this is a kind of a decadent twist
7:52
on, you know, the kind of molar crunching
7:55
cookie that we know is biscotti.
7:57
I wanted something a little more supple,
7:59
a little...
9:26
process
10:00
and it'll be delicious. You know, like there's
10:03
so many desserts that kind of riff off of that
10:05
idea, but I wanted to reassure the reader
10:08
that if you thought you were making
10:10
a mistake, there's still a way to
10:12
kind of go back and save it.
10:14
Yeah, actually I worked on an ice
10:16
cream book many years ago. It was
10:18
really, really amazing author and chef
10:21
named Dana Cree and the very last
10:23
recipe in the book. I love that
10:25
book. It's awesome. One of the best. Thank
10:27
you for buying it. Yeah. You
10:30
know, it's just like a deep, deep dive
10:32
into like how ice creams work. And I love that
10:34
the last
10:35
recipe in the book is, okay,
10:38
if you really did mess up an ice cream base, here's
10:41
how you turned into a cake. I don't mean ice cream cake, like
10:43
literally like add flour, add eggs,
10:47
and like it'll actually bake up into an amazing
10:49
cake. I'm like, oh my God, like that's so
10:51
smart.
10:51
Incredible. Yeah. It's
10:54
true. It's true. exactly
10:56
the kind of critical thinking that
10:59
I'm really hoping readers will take
11:01
to heart. And I think pastry specifically
11:03
is this area where people are like, must
11:06
follow recipe step by step.
11:08
If I don't, I will fail.
11:11
And I think once you sort of engage
11:14
that critical thinking part of your brain,
11:16
where you're like, okay, if
11:18
I've over beaten this whipped cream,
11:20
and it looks grainy,
11:21
I know I can stream in a little
11:24
liquid cream and it'll become silky and
11:26
look smooth again. So I think this is the
11:28
kind of like brain rewiring,
11:31
arranging that feels so good to have
11:33
once you have this sort of map of the book
11:35
in front of you and then you kind of start
11:38
to solve your own problems. And I just love
11:40
that feeling. It's so empowering and it just,
11:42
it feels incredible to sort of have that, you
11:45
know, confidence with, with ingredients
11:47
and technique.
11:48
Yeah. But you could actually save
11:50
over whipped whipped cream. You
11:53
could save anything. You could save over
11:55
whipped egg whites. This was something
11:57
that also happened to me a lot in recipe testing.
12:00
where I would have a million
12:02
things going at the same time. So I'm like, stuff
12:04
in the oven, there's nuts toasting in a
12:06
pan, there's a
12:08
stand mixer on high beating egg whites,
12:10
and everyone knows, you turn your back for a second,
12:13
it goes from perfectly glossy
12:15
meringue to over-whipped disaster.
12:18
And I had this large batch of meringue going,
12:20
and I'm like, no, no, I cannot start this over.
12:22
I'm timing it with the syrup,
12:24
I'm cooking it at the same time for buttercream. So
12:27
I just slipped another raw
12:29
egg white into it and it smoothed it right
12:31
out. That's wild. And whipped cream is the same way.
12:34
It can, you know, you whip cream too long
12:36
and it becomes butter. But there's
12:38
a phase where it looks gritty or grainy
12:40
and it kind of doesn't look that yummy. If you
12:43
stream in just liquid cream, it'll
12:45
bring it back to life and give you that texture
12:47
you want. Yeah.
12:48
That's wild. That's
12:50
awesome. Yeah. Yeah.
12:54
That's Natasha Pickowitz, author of More
12:56
Than Cake, We'll be back in a minute to talk about her
12:58
recipes, including one for
13:00
granola shortbread. Then...
13:03
Now, our culture is already so colorful.
13:05
You see color everywhere. And so I
13:08
think just embedding color into
13:10
our pastries is just an extension of the culture.
13:13
For me, color has always been a really
13:15
big part of my life and the
13:17
work that I do. I love bright colors.
13:20
It's the way that I get to also infuse my
13:22
queer identity into
13:25
my work. You know, these colors are really
13:27
loud, they're very vibrant and saturated.
13:30
It's just such a huge part of my life. That's
13:32
Esteban Castillo,
13:33
author of Chicano Bakes. We'll
13:35
be back in a minute. I'm Francis Lam, and this
13:37
is the Splendid Table
13:38
from APM.
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Our show is supported by Made In Cookware.
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Splendid. Our show is supported by Zoop.
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I'm Francis Lam and this is the show for Curious.
16:00
and eaters. We're
16:02
all about baking today from New
16:05
York to Mexico to London by way of India
16:07
and right now we're talking to Natasha
16:09
Pikowitz, author of the new book More Than
16:12
Cake. We're getting into some of the really
16:14
good stuff in those pages. Get back to it.
16:19
So I want to talk to you about a couple recipes in the
16:21
book. One of them is the
16:23
granola shortbread. I mean
16:26
shortbread is delicious and classic. You know,
16:28
we all love it. Basically, it's butter, flour, sugar. But
16:32
in this shortbread dough, you
16:34
just straight up, like, grab some granola that you like
16:36
and add it to it. Like, that makes up a big
16:38
part of the dough itself, which I've never
16:41
seen before. And the other is that
16:43
instead of,
16:45
like, all-purpose flour, you use rice flour.
16:47
So tell us about both of those things
16:49
and what comes out in the end.
16:51
Yeah. Well, I love that you pointed that recipe
16:53
out. Shortbread is one of my favorite things in the world. I
16:56
love the texture. I love like a bar
16:58
and I love this recipe.
17:00
It's actually had its origins
17:03
when we opened Flora Bar
17:05
and Coffee at the Met Breuer back in 2016. And
17:09
at the time I was developing like a full menu
17:11
of pastries for the coffee bar
17:13
that was like servicing museum
17:16
guests. And
17:19
first of all, I wanted to have a gluten free pastry
17:21
and I had a bunch of like
17:24
Vietnamese white rice flour that
17:26
I was testing with a streusel with other
17:28
stuff that had it laying around. And I
17:30
found that when you're
17:32
making a buttery cookie, that
17:35
mouthfeel of almost like a sandy, short
17:38
texture that you get with rice flour
17:41
is super delicious and
17:43
a shortbread treatment. That
17:45
was a happy coincidence of checks
17:48
the box for being gluten-free,
17:50
but also makes the pastry better
17:52
than what it would have been if I'd used wheat flour. Super
17:55
cool. was at
17:57
the time we had this like granola part.
18:00
in the cafe where we were
18:02
selling little yogurt bowls with
18:05
fruit and granola. And we would have
18:08
little bits of granola leftover that we didn't
18:10
use for the parfait. And I was like, what can
18:12
I use this for? It's so delicious.
18:15
It's sweet and savory. I
18:17
know, I'm obsessed. And I
18:19
was like, what can I use this for? So I ground it into
18:21
a coarse crumb, a
18:24
bread crummy texture, and threw
18:26
it in with the shortbread. and it added
18:29
so much surprising depth of flavor
18:32
and kind of like a nuttiness sort
18:34
of, it just added like great body
18:36
to this cookie and made it feel really unexpected.
18:39
And it was a great way for us to use these
18:41
scraps that we didn't have. So I was like, okay,
18:43
this is the perfect thing to have in the book, because
18:45
who doesn't have like four jars
18:47
of granola that are like half empty
18:50
at any given moment, like a baggie
18:52
of this or whatever of that, like I always
18:54
do. And so I tested the recipe
18:56
with a million different kinds of granola, vegan
18:58
granola, buttery granola, you
19:00
know, nuts, whatever. I mean, as long as
19:02
it doesn't have like,
19:04
you know, big chocolate chunks in it that might like,
19:07
you really can use whatever you want. And
19:09
I loved this idea of like,
19:11
you know, a reader might have a granola that they love
19:14
at home. And so when they make that shortbread,
19:16
it won't taste like the one that I made with my granola,
19:18
but you know, it becomes theirs.
19:20
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Another
19:23
recipe is the crunchy
19:25
almond cake. Now I am a absolute
19:28
almond lover. Like I used
19:30
to be like, oh chocolate, everything, all the chocolate for
19:33
dessert. At some point, like the switch flipped.
19:35
And I'm like, if there's almond flavor, anything,
19:38
that's what I'm getting. Yes. But
19:40
I have to say, I looked at the recipe and
19:43
you first say you make your own marzipan
19:46
for it. So then I'm like, I'm
19:48
out. But
19:51
like, for instance, honestly, it couldn't be easier.
19:54
easier. It's literally like almond flour
19:56
or
19:56
meal, sugar and egg
19:59
white. I mean when I started tested rescue testing
20:01
like the easiest version to make i was
20:03
like oh wow this this
20:05
is actually so much more simple than i thought
20:08
and but it's all about the texture
20:10
is so much improved it's like you
20:13
know plato vs like pebbles
20:15
outside like it's like of softball
20:18
more the more squishy
20:20
tender like so yummy
20:22
and it's from the egg white and
20:25
it's not like that kind of
20:27
show lacked ornamental kind
20:29
of tough marzipan you might see
20:32
and like you know sitting out in a bakery
20:34
counter like for who knows how long ago
20:36
that different whole other thing so
20:38
i really wanted to be like hey you know
20:41
if you have egg whites like sitting around like you
20:43
can make marzipan it'll stay good forever
20:45
keep in your freezer and you now
20:47
you get this like yummy kind of rope of
20:49
marzipan running through the core
20:51
of the cake which is like the
20:53
best surprise program
20:56
or guess i just finished with a recipe you make that
20:58
marzipan you roll it
21:00
onto a rope and then you walk
21:02
briskly poor cake batter around in a loaf
21:04
pan right you bake it so there you
21:07
this beautiful love cake with
21:08
his core of this to
21:10
be sticky yummy marzipan middle and
21:13
the you like a crunchy on topic under yes
21:16
oh my god even just unlike even you
21:18
describing my recipe i'm like that's good advice
21:20
that i'm an hour up now up on
21:23
of our if it if one of my favorite
21:25
recipes in the book i'm one are my favorite photographs
21:27
still but on the topping might
21:29
be one of my favorite parts actually and
21:32
it was inspired by this cake i made it this restaurant
21:34
i worked in montreal called lawrence
21:37
it called a queen elizabeth cake where
21:39
you have a sheet cake and
21:41
you broil this kind of toffee
21:44
like kind of coconut
21:45
sticky topping
21:47
on top of it until gets kind of crispy and golden
21:50
and so i will i wanted to try that but with sliced
21:52
almonds on which are one of my favorite
21:54
ingredients just to play around with on
21:57
and i loved how the not scott kind
21:59
of crispy and sticky and
22:02
crunchy under the broiler. And
22:05
then you get this kind of like no
22:07
frosting needed. You get this kind of crunchy
22:09
halo of almonds on
22:11
top of the cake. And it's
22:14
so good. You just have to sort of, with
22:16
the broiler, babysit a little bit, make sure the nuts
22:18
don't burn. But
22:21
again, what's the worst that happens? The nuts
22:23
burn, scrape the topping off and do it
22:26
again. It doesn't mean the cake is ruined. It
22:28
just might mean that you're picking out
22:30
a few kind of burnt dark slivers
22:32
of almond. Yeah And
22:34
they're very sliceable and packable and you
22:36
can put on a table for a bake sale So
22:39
yeah, I know you are very passionate about
22:41
bake sales
22:44
Tell us about them. Why are you so into like
22:47
this thing that my kids school asked me
22:49
to participate in once every single month?
22:51
Really I love that. Yeah,
22:54
it's crazy It's like I get more notices about
22:56
the bake sales at the school than like, you
22:58
know, when the report cards coming out
23:00
Well, they might be on
23:02
to something because it is a surprisingly
23:04
effective way of like bringing communities
23:07
groups of people together And I think
23:09
for me,
23:10
you know
23:12
What I'm thinking about ways that I want
23:14
to show up for my community
23:16
participate in my neighborhood connect
23:19
with other people it often that's a practice
23:21
of of looking inward
23:23
and being like, what is my skill set? What
23:26
can I contribute? What do I know how to do? And
23:28
the first bake sale that I produced was in 2017. So
23:32
I was working in restaurants full time then. And
23:35
I really loved this sort of idea,
23:38
this sort of tension of asking
23:41
a fine dining pastry chef to
23:43
sort of make something that we could sell
23:45
for five or $10. And I love this
23:47
idea of creating an inclusive,
23:50
accessible event for anybody to
23:52
come to if they want and be able
23:54
to kind of taste and meet
23:57
the pastry chef of restaurants that they
23:59
might not even. to
24:00
be able to afford to go to. Maybe
24:05
you can't eat at La Bernadine, but you can
24:07
meet their pastry chef and try
24:09
a treat of theirs for five or ten dollars. I thought that
24:11
was just such a great way of
24:14
bringing the pastry chef community in
24:16
New York City together and
24:19
really opening it up to the community and being
24:21
like,
24:22
anybody can come check it out. Of course, the incredible
24:24
camaraderie the restaurant community
24:27
with pastry chefs and bakers specifically
24:30
was something that has really moved me. The
24:33
way that people are just so like, absolutely,
24:36
what do you need? Where can I be? It makes
24:39
me feel emotional. The bake sales really
24:41
resonated with me and I think with
24:46
a lot of other people here in New York too. So
24:49
it's really something that I've continued to do you
24:52
know, since then. And, you know, I'm producing
24:54
two huge bake sales for the launch of the book,
24:57
which, you know, is a dream
25:00
come true because, you know,
25:02
obviously I'm
25:03
so excited to celebrate the book. So
25:05
we were like partnering up with Kitchen Arts and Letters
25:08
here in New York City, partnering up
25:10
with Now Serving in LA. Yeah,
25:12
a great bookstore. Yeah. Yeah,
25:14
like incredible, passionate, smart, curious
25:16
people who are just like, what can
25:18
we do, let's do this thing. And it's
25:21
been a joy to collaborate with booksellers
25:24
for bake sales for the first time.
25:25
Yeah. And where are the proceeds going? Well,
25:29
in New York, this first time I've been
25:31
able to share this, which is so exciting, but we're
25:33
partnering up with the nonprofit that is
25:36
created and based in New York City called the Bridget Alliance.
25:39
And they sort of provide resources
25:42
and funds for people
25:44
who are seeking abortion
25:47
services and care outside of their home
25:49
state. So a nonprofit
25:51
like that will actually connect the dots for
25:54
a person out of state to a larger
25:56
organization like Planned Parenthood,
25:58
for example, which is the other novel.
26:00
that I've worked with for my bake sales. So
26:02
I really love that through line of kind of keeping
26:04
it local, working with people
26:06
that are living and
26:09
eating in our communities and sort
26:12
of they're a huge part of the bake sale. They'll
26:15
have a big table. They're going to have their
26:17
own offerings and
26:20
it's so, it's incredible to have them in the
26:22
mix and continue
26:25
to bring awareness to the super
26:27
important work that they do.
26:29
That's awesome. Well, thank you, Chef. This
26:31
has been so great to talk with you, and
26:33
I really want to come to your bake sale.
26:35
I hope to see you there. Thank
26:37
you so much for
26:38
having me. The Tasha
26:40
Pickowitz is the author of More Than Cake,
26:49
100 Baking Recipes Built for Pleasure and
26:52
Community. She left us with a recipe for
26:54
one of her, well, she called it a mistake, but it
26:56
sounds incredible, fennel, chocolate,
26:59
and hazelnut spears. Find it at SplendidTable.org.
27:02
["Splendid Table"]
27:09
Esteban Castillo is one of those maddeningly
27:12
talented triple threat types. He's the writer,
27:15
recipe developer, and photographer behind
27:17
his beloved blog and cookbook Chicano Eats, and
27:20
his new book Chicano Bakes, which is all
27:22
about the breads and pastries of Mexico.
27:24
So from the multicolored buns to
27:27
the jiggly jalatinas, to the super
27:29
soaked tres leches cakes. Mexican
27:31
bakeries are among my favorite places to
27:33
be in the world. And Esteban is here to tell
27:35
us about his take on them. Hey,
27:38
Esteban, it's great to see you.
27:39
Hi, Francis. You
27:41
know, the corn tortilla is obviously the staple
27:44
food of so much of Mexico.
27:46
And I think that's maybe the first thing
27:48
a lot of people think of.
27:50
You know, we think of corn. We don't necessarily think of wheat
27:52
flour. but there's such a
27:55
rich bread and pastry
27:57
culture, Tell us what that
27:59
makes. in baking culture has meant
28:01
to you? Yeah, I mean, it's
28:04
really interesting because I feel like when people think
28:06
about Mexican food, they don't necessarily
28:08
think about the sweet side of our
28:10
culture. It plays such
28:13
a huge part in so many different
28:16
festivities and holidays and
28:18
just our day to day that it's
28:20
often overlooked. But
28:23
I grew up in Southern California in Santana
28:25
and I grew up right behind El Toro
28:28
Meat Market. For those of you listening,
28:30
if you live near Santana, take a trip down
28:33
there. So there's a Dora
28:35
Meat Market. They have a little deli section.
28:37
And then right next door is a panaderia.
28:40
So we had access to fresh pan
28:43
dulce every single day. We would just walk across
28:45
the street and you know, we could always
28:47
tell when the panadero was
28:49
taking out fresh loaves and buns
28:52
because you could smell it in the air. I
28:55
miss living in that sort of... Yeah,
28:59
behind a bakery.
29:02
Okay, so what were some of your favorite things? Not
29:05
just there, but if you're walking into
29:07
a panaderia, and I love that word. It's literally
29:09
like bread store, right? Like if you're walking into
29:11
a panaderia, what are the
29:13
things that
29:14
we should look for? Yeah, I mean the panaderia
29:17
experience here in the US is completely different
29:19
than what you're gonna find in Mexico. In Mexico,
29:22
they might specialize in certain different breads,
29:25
but you aren't going to be able to walk into
29:27
a panaderia and order a cake. You know,
29:29
there's going to be someone else who's gonna specialize
29:31
in cakes. But here in
29:33
the US, you walk into
29:35
a panaderia and they're gonna offer you everything.
29:38
Depending on where you live, you are
29:40
going to be able to order cakes or jellos
29:43
or flans or pangulsi or
29:46
even savory things. It really just depends
29:48
on who the panadero is, what they're doing with
29:51
the things that they're making. but you
29:53
can always count on a couple of different
29:56
things and that's gonna
29:58
be the conchas. It's the... these
30:00
sweet buns with a sugar streusel
30:02
on top in the shape of a
30:05
shell, which is how they get their name. Contamin,
30:07
shell, right? Yeah. Okay.
30:11
You're also going to find mantecadas, which are these
30:13
sweet buttery muffins and everybody
30:15
always has them in like a red liner. You
30:18
are also going to find revanadas, which are
30:20
slices of bread with butter
30:22
on top and then sprinkled with sugar. also
30:25
going to find teleras and bolillos
30:27
which are typically used for savory
30:30
things like tortas. So
30:32
much bowls. Oh god they're so good. Which
30:37
are sort of like mexico sugar cookie and
30:41
sometimes when I say polvorones people tend
30:43
to get a little confused because we actually have
30:45
like there's like four or five
30:47
different cookies that share the same name. And
30:54
we also repurpose stuff. The dough for
30:57
Pobolon can be used to make so
30:59
many different other cookies.
31:00
And so it's these
31:02
little core group of things that
31:04
you're going to be able to find at any Panaderie
31:06
here in the US. Okay, that's good to know.
31:09
And you've mentioned Pan dulce. So I
31:11
mean, just translating that means sweet bread,
31:13
right? So that's different from
31:16
pastries and danishes and it's different from
31:18
cakes. It's literally sweetened breads
31:20
and there's a whole tradition
31:23
of them. You mentioned the conchas and the muffins.
31:26
One thing I have noticed and I'm curious about is
31:28
a lot of times there seems to be a very like,
31:31
it's an important emphasis on the color
31:33
of these items. You
31:35
mentioned the muffins come in a red
31:37
liner and conchas, with that sugar,
31:40
that sort of like crusty, streusel-y
31:43
topping, that sugary topping, is often
31:45
colored, right? Sometimes I see it blue, sometimes
31:47
I see it pink. Tell us about that
31:50
tradition of that color. Why is that important?
31:52
I mean, honestly, I just feel like it really,
31:55
it's something that comes natural to us in adding
31:57
color. You know, our culture is already.
32:00
so colorful, you see color everywhere. And
32:02
so I think just embedding
32:04
color into our pastries is just an
32:07
extension of the culture. I've
32:09
never really put a lot of thought into
32:11
it. Yeah, it's just so natural. Yeah,
32:13
it's just so natural. Well, I love that
32:15
you're talking to me from your view of this beautiful
32:18
black and green, like tropical
32:20
plant background, you've got this amazing
32:23
yellow and brown patterned shirt And
32:25
your book is just absolutely saturated
32:28
in color. So that I
32:30
love that Yeah for me color
32:32
has always been a really big part of my
32:34
life and my work that I do I
32:37
went to school up in Humboldt State and
32:40
I really wanted to get into advertising
32:42
and I learned that a little
32:44
too late into my undergrad career
32:47
and so I ended up going into graphic design
32:49
and I went into PR and
32:52
so graphic design has really just
32:55
guided my way through photography
32:58
and the things that I enjoy
33:00
and the things that I really incorporate
33:03
into my work as Chicano eats and
33:05
so I always have to have color. I love
33:07
bright colors. It's the way
33:09
that I get to also infuse my
33:12
queer identity into my work.
33:14
You know these colors are really loud, they're very
33:17
vibrant and saturated and so
33:20
it's just such a huge part of my life. Yeah,
33:22
yeah, Yeah, well, and part of your identity
33:24
too, at least in terms of the work you do, is
33:27
you're known as someone who has developed
33:29
all these recipes that are Mexican,
33:32
sometimes in tradition, but oftentimes in spirit,
33:34
and you use your own flavors, and
33:37
you exhibit a lot of your own personal creativity in your
33:40
cooking. And I'm curious,
33:42
so when you were creating this book, how
33:45
did you decide which
33:47
recipes you wanted to have, like an iconic,
33:50
straight up recipe for? Maybe
33:52
you could call it traditional, you could call it typical, and
33:55
which ones you wanted to put your own spin on. really
34:00
hard question to answer because
34:02
there's really so many things that I wanted
34:04
to incorporate and I had very
34:06
limited space in the book to work with
34:09
and so thinking about
34:11
Bandulce there's over 500 different pieces
34:14
of Bandulce to start with
34:16
so how am I going to work that into a
34:18
book where I can probably get about 80 recipes
34:21
in and so I really
34:23
had to go back and forth but ultimately
34:25
I ended up going with the staples
34:28
that you are going to run into, like
34:30
I was saying earlier, if you walk
34:32
into any panaderie here in the US, you're going to find
34:34
the conchas, the roles a canela,
34:37
which is like our take on cinnamon rolls. And
34:41
all of these other breads. And so that's what
34:43
you're going to find in the book, you're going to find those conchas,
34:45
the bologones, the rebanadas, all
34:48
of those things. But
34:50
they all have a tweak here
34:52
and there.
34:53
Because when I
34:56
develop
34:57
recipes, I tend to be a little analytical
35:00
about what's going in there, why it's going
35:02
in there. You know, there's one recipe in
35:04
there. It's my carrot de
35:07
mango con limon. Carrot is
35:09
a Mexican icebox cake that's
35:12
comprised of a cream cheese
35:14
and lime juice filling that's sweetened
35:17
with condensed milk. And then you have layers
35:19
of Maria cookies in between.
35:22
And so for me, I was like, how can I make
35:24
this just a little bit more special? When
35:27
I think of the combination of cream
35:30
cheese and lime juice, I think of something
35:32
that's going to be very tangy, very tart.
35:35
And so for me, the solution was to incorporate
35:37
mango puree into into
35:40
the filling, it balances everything out. And
35:43
it complements the tanginess and the
35:45
tartness of the lime juice. And so making
35:47
tweaks like that and incorporating little twists
35:49
here and there aren't very difficult. Here's
35:53
another recipe I saw in your book that I am
35:56
fascinated by. Bande elote.
35:58
So it looked at means
36:01
corn but not the the corn that
36:03
you use for tortillas like sweet corn right
36:05
yes tell us about this recipe
36:08
yeah my mom's side of the family
36:11
is known for cooking they are the
36:13
inspirations for everything that I do but she's
36:16
not a baker she
36:18
never has been and
36:20
pandelote was one of the things that she knew
36:22
how to make and it was perfect every
36:24
single time that in flan so
36:27
pandelote is our take on the cornbread.
36:30
What's really interesting about this is that
36:32
it's sort of the consistency of
36:34
it is between like
36:36
a cornbread and like a
36:38
bundt cake. So the crumb is very
36:41
tender but very tight and very
36:43
spongy. And it's one of
36:45
the things that I love about it so much. And
36:48
it starts off with sweet white corn,
36:51
which is what I prefer to use. And whenever
36:53
someone wants to make this recipe, I always
36:56
encourage them to use fresh corn because
36:59
it's going to be a lot more milky and you're going to be able
37:01
to get a lot more starches out of the
37:03
kernels. And that only adds
37:06
to the finished product and the texture. And
37:08
so what's great about this recipe is
37:10
that you don't need any fancy equipment, you can
37:12
make this with a blender and two big bowls.
37:15
You mix all of your dry ingredients
37:18
in one bowl and then the second you mix together
37:20
your sugar, your milk,
37:23
your melted butter, and then the pureed
37:25
corn. And then you incorporate
37:28
the wet into the dry. And
37:30
you pour this into your prepared
37:32
loaf pan. And then an hour
37:34
and like 10 minutes later, you have
37:37
this really beautiful and very, like
37:40
really nicely domed loaf.
37:43
And it's just, it's so delicious. It's
37:45
one of my favorite things to make in the summer when
37:47
corn is just at its peak. And
37:51
yeah, it's so good by itself. But
37:53
I also suggest adding a little
37:55
dab of butter and a drizzle of honey with
37:58
some Caffecyto
38:00
or some chocolatte, and you're
38:02
good to go. Ah, that sounds great.
38:05
Well, thank you so much, Esteban. You're
38:07
so welcome. Thank you again, Francis. It's
38:10
been a great time.
38:11
["Ace de Bon Castillo"]
38:17
Esteban Castillo is the author of Chicano
38:19
Bakes, recipes from Mexican pandulce,
38:22
tamales, and my favorite desserts.
38:25
You can find his recipe for the pande lotu we talked about
38:27
at SplendidTable.org.
38:30
So, self-saucing pudding, actually, it's,
38:32
you know, the name speaks for itself. It's
38:35
the pudding that self-sauces. Basically,
38:38
you put the bake into the
38:41
oven, and a miracle happens, and
38:45
then you get this sauce at the bottom
38:48
of the cake. That's Britton's great
38:50
baker, Chetna Macan, and her spice-filled sweets. I'm
38:54
Francis Lam and this is the Splendid Table
38:57
from APM.
39:01
If you were to start a new business, what would it
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for free. hardest
40:00
way to hire. For the seventh
40:02
year on the Code Switch podcast, conversations
40:04
about race and identity go way beyond
40:07
the day's headlines. Because we know what's
40:09
part of every person is part of every
40:11
story. We're bringing that perspective
40:14
with new episodes every week. on
40:16
the Code Switch podcast from NPR.
40:31
I'm Francis Lam, and this is the show for curious
40:33
cooks and eaters.
40:35
We have been baking up a storm today with New
40:37
York pastry chef, Natasha Pikowitz, Mexican-American
40:40
cookbook author Esteban Castillo, and
40:43
now one of my favorite
40:45
ever contestants on the great British baking show,
40:48
Chetna Macan. Ever since her season
40:50
that show, Chetna has, I don't know, like transformed
40:52
herself into a cookbook producing machine. Her
40:55
sixth book came out last year called
40:57
Chetna's Easy Baking with a Twist
41:00
of Spice. So
41:02
hi Chetna, it's so good to see you. Hello,
41:05
hello, good to see you too. I, you
41:07
know, I, you know, first came upon
41:09
you, I I think as many people do, I watched
41:11
you on the Great British Baking Show.
41:14
I was surprised to read in your new
41:16
baking book that when you grew up in India,
41:20
you were in a community where Western style baking wasn't
41:22
really a thing and your mom was actually the
41:24
only person you knew who owned
41:26
an oven and actually loved
41:29
to bake cakes. How did she get into that?
41:33
I think she just loves
41:36
trying new things and she is still exactly the same. still
41:38
exactly the same so she's a very curious
41:41
cook which I love about
41:43
her and at that time because
41:46
no one else was baking at home
41:49
there was some bakeries not many where
41:51
you could buy like certain only few cakes
41:54
so she did I I remember we were
41:57
still in school. In one summer holiday she
41:59
did a baking
42:00
class and learned how to
42:02
make a few cakes,
42:04
basic cakes. And that's when she bought this oven,
42:07
which by the way, she still has. One
42:10
day I really need to take a picture of that when
42:12
I visit her. But so it's
42:14
like a round, like
42:17
a casserole box, just a big, big.
42:20
That just plugs into one room
42:22
to another. So sometimes she would plug it in
42:24
the corridor, sometimes in our bedroom, sometimes
42:27
in her bedroom. It was just
42:29
amazing. So obviously it was quite limited
42:31
what could go into that oven because it
42:34
was like a round, certain shape.
42:37
So she would always just bake round
42:40
cakes. But
42:42
then that was the cakes you knew, round cakes. Absolutely.
42:46
And we weren't complaining. And
42:49
we were very, very pleased that she
42:52
was baking. So yeah,
42:54
I think it's amazing
42:57
that at that time, her generation,
43:00
she was trying out something which
43:02
was not a popular thing to do. And
43:05
it's not like she could discuss with her friends, or this has
43:07
gone wrong. It was literally trial and
43:09
error.
43:09
Yeah, yeah, yeah. And did you take it
43:11
up at that time or did you take up baking later?
43:15
Actually, that's when I started as
43:17
well. So after she had done her class
43:19
and she learned the basics, you
43:22
know, I learned from her just basic cakes.
43:25
I'm not talking fancy cakes. I'm talking
43:27
vanilla cake and one of her very famous cakes,
43:29
the date cake, which is eggless, which
43:32
is why she makes them so often because,
43:34
you know, a lot of people in India don't
43:36
eat eggs. And
43:38
that's when I started baking a
43:40
few basic cakes. And at
43:42
that point I started baking
43:45
birthday cakes for us all. So yeah,
43:48
it has been, It has
43:51
been something that I've loved from
43:53
a very young age.
43:55
Yeah, yeah. And then, you know, fast forward however
43:57
many years later and here you are baking up
43:59
a store. in front of your entire
44:01
country, actually the entire world, because
44:04
that show is popular in the world over. So
44:07
there are so many amazing sounding recipes in your book.
44:09
I definitely want to talk to you about a whole bunch of them. One
44:12
that really caught my eye was the
44:15
Masala Chai Trezleche's
44:17
cake. I
44:20
love Trezleche's cake. It's
44:22
a very common, typical
44:24
cake all over Latin America. I think of it
44:26
mostly as Mexican, but it's a hobby all over Latin America
44:29
and it's soaked in cream
44:33
and condensed milk and evaporated milk. It's
44:35
just so smushy and delicious. But
44:38
I didn't realize that
44:40
he had traveled over, you know,
44:43
back into Europe. Tell me how you
44:45
came upon Thrissliches. So
44:47
this was quite interesting because I live
44:50
in a quite a small town
44:52
here in the UK and there
44:55
is a little baking group here. And
44:59
they meet once a month, and
45:01
they choose a subject or some theme,
45:04
and then they bake according to that theme,
45:06
all of them. And once I went on
45:08
Bake Off, I had not heard of that group beforehand,
45:11
but once I went on Bake Off, one
45:13
of the ladies from the group emailed
45:15
me and said, "'Why don't you come to our group?'" And
45:18
I said, why not? So I went there. And
45:20
the theme was, I think the theme was cakes
45:22
from around the world. And
45:25
I remember at that point,
45:27
she actually named it Three
45:29
Milk Cake, which I will remember
45:31
forever because she didn't call it dress the
45:33
chest. She just said Three Milk Cake and
45:36
I ate it and I'm such a cake
45:38
fan that I fell in love. It was
45:41
moist, it was delicious, it was
45:43
melt in your mouth kind of deliciousness.
45:47
And I had never heard or had
45:49
that cake before. And that
45:51
actually stayed with me. obviously, you know,
45:54
there were no recipes. She was not giving out
45:56
recipes. Everyone had just baked. And so
45:58
when I was doing this book.
46:00
I thought, you know, I have
46:02
to do my own version and
46:04
who doesn't like masala chai? So, you
46:06
know, I thought that's it combine
46:08
the two And here is that
46:11
recipe.
46:11
Oh, I love it. How do you make your masala
46:14
chai? Like what are the spices that you like? So
46:17
there's actually a whole lot of spices that go
46:19
in and they vary from family
46:22
to family home to home So I
46:24
like to put green cardamoms a
46:27
little bit of lots of actually
46:29
fresh ginger. It could be grated
46:32
with the skin on and also
46:34
you could add a few cloves in there.
46:37
You could add a little bit of cinnamon
46:39
stick in there, but these are the basic
46:41
ones and then people carry on and
46:43
sometimes add star anise, they'll add
46:46
fennel seeds, but I usually
46:48
stop at the three, four spices.
46:51
I love black pepper and masala
46:53
too. I love that little bit of heat that comes with it. Ah,
46:58
yeah, no, I don't add black pepper to
47:00
chai. But yeah,
47:02
having that mixture soaked into the
47:04
cake must just be unreal.
47:08
Exactly, and that tea flavor
47:10
as well. So what I did was I
47:12
broke the two things separately. So
47:15
I added the tea into the soak,
47:17
into the milk mixture, and I added the spices
47:19
into the cake because I wanted the whole cake
47:22
to taste of the spices. So I
47:25
divided the flavors into both
47:27
the cake and the syrup.
47:29
I love that. Cool, let's go to another
47:31
one. This is, I
47:34
mean, even the title is mesmerizing.
47:37
It is a chocolate and
47:39
coconut spiced self-saucing
47:41
pudding. So what
47:44
is a self-saucing pudding?
47:46
So self-saucing pudding, actually
47:49
it's, you know, the name speaks
47:51
for itself. It's a pudding that you... It sounds incredible.
47:56
It's like putting that self sources.
48:00
Basically, you
48:02
put the bake into the oven and when
48:04
you get the bake out, you will have
48:06
a little sauce at the bottom of the
48:09
pudding because the sauce
48:11
has come out from the
48:13
cake mixture and that's
48:16
why it is called it because, you know, kind
48:18
of a miracle happens in the oven
48:21
and then you get this sauce at the
48:23
bottom of the cake.
48:24
Okay, so first of all, just to be
48:27
clear to our listeners, when we say pudding here,
48:29
we you mean in the British sense. So it's actually baked, it's
48:31
more like a cake, like a sticky toffee pudding, not a pudding.
48:33
And in the American sense, which we usually use
48:36
to talk about a custard. So this comes
48:38
out of the oven, it's a cake, but then
48:40
when you
48:41
take a spoonful of the cake, there's
48:44
a sauce on the bottom. How do you
48:46
make it? What happens? I know
48:48
you just referred to as a miracle. Do
48:50
you do an incantation, or is there actually like a mixture
48:53
of ingredients that makes this happen?
48:54
So, you know,
48:57
I'm not going to get into the science of this
48:59
because I think baking is magical
49:02
and this is
49:05
what, you know, it is true though.
49:07
But basically you
49:09
make a lovely light sponge cake
49:11
mixture and then you put
49:14
that into your tin
49:16
or, you know, whatever dish you're
49:19
using and then you make a lovely sauce.
49:21
So in this case, I have made the sauce
49:23
with brown sugar, cocoa powder,
49:26
a bit of water, and also I've
49:28
added coconut milk because of the flavor
49:30
I wanted. So you have this
49:32
runny liquid delicious
49:35
sauce, which you then pour over
49:37
the cake mixture. So when you put
49:40
the cake pudding in
49:42
the oven, the syrup is on the top
49:44
and the cake is at the bottom. But when
49:46
it comes out, you have this fluffy
49:48
looking gorgeous chocolate cake. And when you
49:51
scoop into it, you'll see a
49:53
pool of chocolate sauce in
49:55
the bottom.
49:55
Oh God, that's incredible. But
49:58
I imagine during the baking, Obviously
50:00
to switch
50:02
position, they had to kind of like
50:04
soak their way through each other, right? So
50:07
it infuses, both
50:08
of them are infused with the flavor of the other, I imagine.
50:11
Absolutely right. So the cake
50:14
in this instance, in this pudding is
50:16
really moist and you
50:18
can over bake it and then you won't get much
50:21
moisture. So obviously timing
50:24
is key. But
50:26
yeah, the pudding
50:28
here is really, really moist
50:30
and kind of soaked through.
50:32
Oh God, sounds awesome. And
50:35
it is so good, especially in this cold weather.
50:38
It is actually, even I wanted to
50:40
make it right now.
50:41
After you've made it, I'm sure 35
50:44
times to get to work, you're going to let go make it after
50:46
this call. So the
50:48
last one I want to talk to you about too is a savory
50:50
recipe. You have a lot of savory recipes in the book. And
50:53
this is the chana dal stuffed
50:55
yogurt bread. So the
50:57
chana dal is like a spiced chickpea
50:59
stuffing. But tell us about the yogurt
51:02
bread because
51:03
it looks like it comes together super fast. It's
51:06
not a yeasted bread.
51:09
But it's got yogurt and lemon and
51:11
flour. Tell us about that, the
51:13
yogurt bread and how that works.
51:16
So this particular recipe was inspired
51:18
by an Indian bread called bhatura
51:21
and bhatura is something we
51:23
make in the North India and it's
51:26
usually served with cholle which is chickpea
51:28
curry and this
51:30
bhatura is like you said it hasn't
51:32
got yeast it's a quick dough
51:35
that you prepare with yogurt which actually
51:37
then gives it that lightness
51:39
and that fluffiness like like a pillowy texture.
51:43
And I thought, you know, that's a great
51:46
dough. Why why don't I use it
51:48
for flatbread instead
51:50
of frying like make a paratha out of it?
51:54
So, yeah, so that's what I did.
51:56
and Chana Dal is, yeah,
51:58
it's quite a...
52:00
meaty dal, you
52:02
know lentils there are so many kinds of lentils
52:04
but and Every lentil has got
52:06
their own quality their own flavor. This
52:09
one is quite Heavy
52:11
it's quite meaty and
52:14
that's why I chose this and I thought I'm
52:16
gonna add something more
52:18
kind of
52:20
Rich to this which is why I added feta
52:22
to this and it will add that saltiness
52:25
and that creaminess, richness to
52:27
the filling. So these are
52:29
super quick to make, super, super
52:32
quick to make. And once you've made them, you can have
52:34
them piping hot, but you can also have them at room
52:36
temperature. So they're great for carrying
52:39
it for picnics or lunchboxes
52:41
or whatever, or make it beforehand
52:43
for your meals.
52:44
Yeah. And like not having to wait for
52:46
the bread to proof is so interesting. Yes.
52:49
It's just baking soda and the, and the yogurt and
52:51
lemon reacting to give it the puff, right?
52:53
Absolutely. And it doesn't have
52:55
like a puff, like a puri or
52:58
a bhatura, but it has
53:00
that lightness to it. So the
53:02
actual dough, because it's so thin,
53:05
rolled out thinly, it's got that,
53:08
yeah, it's got that pillowy texture
53:10
to it.
53:11
Oh, cool. Do you ever make it without
53:13
the stuffing just to make the flatbread? Yes,
53:16
yes, absolutely, which is what is called bhatura.
53:18
So if you don't make it with the stuffing,
53:21
You can roll it out and defry
53:23
it and then it puffs up like a ball
53:26
and it is so so
53:28
good
53:28
Well,
53:30
okay Well, I am super excited
53:33
to take out this book and I didn't realize you have
53:35
like another book coming out I think this book came
53:37
out last year and you another book coming out this year I
53:40
can't imagine how hard-working you are and
53:43
how you just keep cranking these books out But
53:45
I look forward to catching up have?
53:48
Yes, thank you so much. Yes, I've got a
53:50
new book out in the summer. It's called
53:53
Chetna's Indian Feast. So,
53:55
it's very different to this one. But
53:57
it's all about bringing together a
53:59
friend.
54:00
and family. Terrific. Well,
54:02
thank you and I look forward to it.
54:03
Thank you so much. Chetna
54:07
Macan is the author of Chetna's Easy
54:10
Baking with a Twist of Spice. And her next
54:12
book coming out in August of 2023
54:15
is Chetna's Indian Feasts. You
54:18
can find her recipe for that magical
54:20
chocolate coconut spiced self-saucing
54:23
pudding at SplendidTable.org.
54:26
And that is our show for the week. Thank
54:29
you for listening. Go make a cake.
54:31
We'll talk to you next week.
54:37
ATM studios are run by Chandra Cavani,
54:40
Alex Shaffer, and Joanne Griffin. Beth Perlman is
54:42
our executive producer and the splendid able was created
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by Sally Swift and Lynn Mazzotto-Casper.
54:47
It's made every week by technical producer Jennifer
54:49
Lubke, producer Erica Romero, digital
54:52
producer James Napoli, and managing
54:54
producer Sally Swift. Be
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