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it's Francis. We're dropping a bonus episode in

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our Feed the Speak from our sister podcast,

0:32

The One Recipe. Enjoy. Happy

0:39

holidays, everybody. I'm Jesse Sparks, host

0:41

of The Splendid Table's sister podcast,

0:43

The One Recipe, here with a

0:46

holiday special from APM, American Public

0:48

Media. Between

0:50

the chill in the air and the

0:52

decorations covering homes and shops all around

0:54

town, it's safe to say that

0:56

the winter holidays are in full swing. And

0:58

that means it's time to think all about

1:01

gatherings with friends, family, and all the people

1:03

we love to share a meal with. However

1:06

that might look, whether that includes a

1:08

marathon of holiday parties, a romantic meal

1:10

with your love, or a massive

1:12

dysfunctional family meal, let's get

1:14

to planning. We have three

1:17

amazing guests to help you kick your celebrations into

1:19

the highest of gears. We're going to

1:21

head down to Texas and Louisiana for

1:23

Southern Cajun Christmas with Chef Tiffany Derry.

1:26

Then we're taking on holiday sweets with

1:28

an old school classic, the Yule Log,

1:30

reinterpreted for today by baker Matt Adlard,

1:33

author of Bake It Better. Now,

1:36

if you're a regular listener, you know we at The

1:38

One Recipe like to do two things every week to

1:40

start off the podcast. One is to

1:43

let our guests introduce themselves and what they're most

1:45

known for, and second, have them reveal a little

1:47

something that we may not know. Let's

1:50

dive right in with Chetna Makan. Chetna Makan

1:53

Hi, I'm Chetna Makan, food writer

1:55

and cookbook author, and my latest

1:57

book is Chetna's Indian Feast. pub,

4:00

does it get competitive for like the pool table

4:02

or any of the activities that they have? So

4:05

they have one pool table and

4:07

that's the only activity they have. So

4:09

it does get competitive like everyone's waiting

4:12

for when the other person or the

4:14

family or the group will finish their

4:17

game so they can take over. But some

4:20

Christmases we've had really warm weather

4:22

like say 14, 15

4:25

degrees, which is very warm for the summer or

4:27

for the Christmas time. And

4:29

that pub is on the beach. So people

4:31

just walk out and just stand by the

4:34

sea. So they'll just stand with their

4:36

drinks on the beach and

4:38

have a really nice time. So

4:40

whatever the weather it's such

4:42

good atmosphere and everybody is very happy. And

4:45

even if they don't know each other, they're

4:47

wishing each other. And it

4:49

just feels like the perfect

4:51

kind of festive vibe. Oh,

4:54

that sounds so beautiful. And also

4:56

for American listeners, 14, 15 degrees

4:59

Celsius is just about

5:01

like 60 degrees Fahrenheit. So that's perfect.

5:03

Like just cold enough for a light

5:05

sweater, just warm enough to be able

5:07

to bask in the sun and really,

5:09

again, get spoiled by the season. Exactly.

5:12

So to back it up a

5:14

little bit, your Christmas traditions actually start a little

5:16

bit sooner though, right? You and your family

5:19

tend to make a lot of use of the

5:21

time that leads up to Christmas instead of just

5:23

Christmas Day. What else do you

5:25

do during those days? So because

5:28

the kids kind of break up

5:30

at least a week before Christmas,

5:32

that's the standard. And that's the

5:34

time. Actually, we start even slightly

5:36

before that because when they were

5:38

little, even till

5:40

last year, actually, we always

5:43

make some cakes or cookies and then

5:45

we take it to our neighbors

5:47

and teachers. So we always

5:49

have a little pack for

5:51

their teachers, whatever subject they

5:53

are teaching. They always get

5:56

a little cake or cookie

5:58

box or something like that. So

6:00

that's where it actually starts. And

6:02

then slowly as they

6:04

break up, then they love to bake actually.

6:07

They're not great and

6:09

too keen into cooking, but

6:11

baking is something they love. So

6:14

they'll always make chocolate

6:16

chip cookies or every

6:19

year they make gingerbread house.

6:22

And I'm not, don't

6:24

think like a very pretty looking because

6:26

by the end of it, they're so

6:28

frustrated and they just literally throw everything

6:30

at it. But it's

6:33

their gingerbread house and it doesn't have to

6:35

be perfect, but it's quite fun. They can

6:37

do it among themselves. But

6:40

that's the fun of it. That's the reason the

6:42

kids get to go wild with the gingerbread house.

6:44

It doesn't need to be pretty as long as they're just having

6:47

a good time up until they get fed up

6:49

with it. Exactly. Okay, so

6:51

Chutna, what's in your ultimate cookie

6:53

box? So always I

6:55

have in the pasture and I always

6:58

bake things I like. So I never

7:00

make something or I never

7:02

actually, even when it comes to recipes,

7:04

I never do things that I don't

7:06

particularly like to eat myself. So all

7:08

the stuff I make are things that

7:10

I'll be very happy to devour. So

7:13

it usually definitely has chutna

7:15

chip cookies. It usually has

7:18

some flavor of biscotti and

7:21

brownies. Brownies is something, I know it's

7:23

not biscuit, but it's not even cake. So

7:26

it's somewhere in the middle and

7:29

even just any flavor of

7:31

the brownies, whether it's caramel or it's

7:33

nutty brownie, and

7:36

yeah, blondies. So these are things that

7:38

actually keep well for a few days,

7:40

which is really important because you can't

7:42

bake every day fresh. So you have

7:44

to have things that will keep well

7:46

a few days outside

7:48

and on the shelf so everyone

7:51

can help themselves and eat

7:53

whenever they like. So you have the

7:55

cookies covered. Is there like another snack you have

7:57

to have? Yes. mince

8:00

pies are absolutely massive and

8:02

they kind of are

8:04

like a sign of the arrival of

8:06

the festive season because you can spot

8:08

them in the sheds and things like

8:11

that but usually they have really kind

8:13

of shotcrust pastry and filled with mince

8:15

meat and kind of

8:17

very rich so I

8:19

make them at home and I use

8:21

like a light either a puff pastry

8:23

or really thin shotcrust and then I

8:26

fill it with a little bit of

8:28

mince meat and then add either almond

8:30

paste or custard so it

8:32

becomes slightly lighter and those

8:35

are amazing and they actually

8:37

can make a batch put them in a

8:39

box on the shelf anyone who's staying or

8:41

myself and I'm you know and I want

8:43

to take a break and pick one up

8:46

and enjoy it because they are

8:48

absolutely delicious. Okay so before

8:50

people freak out we're not talking

8:53

about meat pies here we're talking about mince

8:55

meat pies so Chetna can you give us

8:57

a quick breakdown or explainer

8:59

for our American audience? So

9:02

basically it's lots of chopped up

9:04

fruit and some nuts

9:06

sometimes so it

9:08

could be raisins it could be kind

9:12

of almonds chopped in some walnuts

9:14

sometimes and so

9:16

you can buy them ready-made you can

9:18

make them at home and then they

9:20

are soaked in sprits and lots

9:23

of spices so it's kind

9:25

of Christmasy it's very windry

9:27

and actually I can understand

9:29

when people will get confused because the first

9:31

time when I moved to UK many

9:33

many years ago when I saw the

9:35

jar and it said mince meat I

9:37

actually thought it's meat because it's obvious

9:39

why would it they call it meat

9:41

if it's not meat so I can

9:44

understand people getting confused

9:46

but actually it is purely vegetarian

9:49

stuff and it's kind of used

9:51

a lot over Christmas. Do

9:53

you make your own? No I

9:55

wish I did but because no no

9:57

but I think it's great for people

10:00

who make massive quantities of mince

10:02

pie or Christmas cake and things

10:04

because you kind of use it

10:06

for anything. Because of

10:08

the quantity I use, I know you can

10:11

buy some really good ones in the market

10:13

these days. So, so you're thinking of

10:15

the small, the size of hand pies are like

10:17

the size of little muffin tins or

10:19

baking tin size, correct? Yes. So

10:22

basically they are like example, like

10:24

mini cupcake size, that's it. Mini

10:27

muffins, they are exactly that size

10:29

and we usually use that

10:31

tin to bake them anyways. And

10:34

also those mince pie can get pretty dense.

10:36

It's a lot of fillings

10:39

packed into a kind of heavy crust.

10:41

So I love your idea to use

10:43

either like almond paste or custard

10:45

to just lighten it up and to make

10:47

a thinner pastry too. So the whole thing

10:49

is just easier stacking and you

10:51

don't get as full or feel as heavy

10:54

afterwards, right? Yes, absolutely right.

10:56

Yes. We're

10:59

talking to Chetna McCon, author of Chetna's

11:02

Indian Feast. We'll be back with

11:04

more from her shortly and then. It

11:06

could not be a research and

11:08

development trip without going to my

11:11

mother's house and letting her cook

11:13

this ginormous plate of gumbo, bowl

11:15

of gumbo and she had cornbread

11:18

and then she went off and she started

11:20

just adding things. I'm like, what is happening

11:22

here? It's a buffet. We have fried

11:24

chicken, get pound meat. She had like

11:27

three different pies and she just gets

11:29

so excited when we call. That's

11:32

Chef Tiffany Dairy waiting in the wings. Um,

11:34

Christmas gumbo anyone? I'm

11:36

Jesse Farts and this is the one recipe

11:38

I had especially from APM. Hey

11:45

friends, it's time for a quick thank you

11:48

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13:10

I'm Jesse Stork and this is

13:12

the One Recipe Holiday Special from

13:14

APM, American Public Media. Today

13:17

we're talking all things family and

13:19

holiday cooking and eating. We've

13:22

been talking to Chetna Macan, Britain's Queen of

13:24

Indian Home Cooking. You may recognize

13:26

Chetna from her delightful book or

13:28

her life-changing appearance on the fifth season

13:30

of The Great British Faking Show. So

13:33

let's get back to our conversation. Instead

13:38

of doing one big Christmas dinner, you

13:40

like to do a few different days

13:42

where maybe one day you'll do like

13:45

a curry, the next day you might have

13:47

like a drinks party with friends and family.

13:49

Can you kind of walk me through what

13:51

you do on the days before Christmas itself?

13:54

So actually the reason is that

13:56

it's my birthday a week before

13:58

Christmas. Many

14:00

years ago, once the kids

14:02

were not babies and we couldn't handle

14:04

more guests, we started having a big

14:07

Christmas party which, slash, sometimes used

14:09

to kind of be called my

14:11

birthday party as well. But

14:14

this is this big thing which became bigger

14:16

every year and now it's something that all

14:18

my friends look forward to because sometimes they

14:20

don't see each other all year round and

14:23

then they'll meet up at my

14:25

house over Christmas at that party. So

14:28

it's something that people wait for

14:30

that invite and it's become like

14:33

a lovely thing and

14:35

we have the best time. And that's when

14:37

I do a lot of food, but not

14:39

the meal, but I do a lot of

14:41

snacks because I'm such

14:44

a feeder and it's like the

14:46

great opportunity for me to have this

14:48

massive table with all sorts of savory

14:50

and sweet stuff. But

14:53

when it comes to actual Christmas day,

14:56

mostly we have the proper roast dinner

14:58

like everyone else. But like you said,

15:01

before and after the roast dinner,

15:03

the actual Christmas day, we have

15:05

lots of different kind of

15:07

meal. It could be anything. It could be one

15:09

day I might just make a big pot of

15:12

biryani or one day I might just make

15:14

a ryanan or something

15:16

light. But

15:18

yeah, it's because it's such a special

15:21

time and all four of us

15:23

are at home, I try and make it special so

15:25

we can sit around the table and have a proper

15:27

meal. That table sounds amazing.

15:29

What do you make? So there's lots

15:31

of little things. I tend to use kind

15:34

of ready-made puff pastry and make these

15:37

cheesy chutney twists. So just a layer

15:39

of chutney and cheese and then twist

15:41

and bake them until crispy. There's always

15:44

a tray of profiteroles because they're light

15:46

and you can just pick one. There's

15:49

always some kind

15:51

of prawns, coated and grilled

15:54

because I have to think

15:57

of things that actually can be enjoyed

15:59

at room temperature. because I can't be

16:01

sitting there heating everything up. Slices

16:03

of focaccia, some different cheeses,

16:06

these chicken puff pastry

16:09

parcels, they're little, but

16:12

they're filled with like spiced up kind

16:14

of garam masala, chaat masala chicken.

16:17

And then there's potato balls, which I

16:20

make almost every year because they go

16:22

down a street with some nice wine

16:25

and drinks because we usually do

16:27

some kind of chilled wine or red wine. I

16:32

don't tend to do cocktails because it just,

16:35

yeah, I just want to enjoy myself.

16:37

So I just let everyone take their

16:39

own drinks and things like that. There's

16:41

always cake, lots of different crisps, some

16:45

little cream cheese, some in bites. Yeah, so there's lots.

16:47

I can go on and on. I like to have

16:50

the table full and I like to see it all

16:52

clear by the end of it. So that just makes

16:55

me feel like it was a good party. With

16:58

a party spread like that, you don't need cocktails.

17:01

You have everything covered. You are good to

17:03

go. And I love that you're still making

17:06

a point of celebrating the greatest holiday of

17:08

the year, Chetna Day, where we

17:10

all break out our Chetna sweaters with

17:12

your face on it. So marking my

17:14

calendar for this year, not going to miss it. Oh

17:18

my God, that's such a brilliant idea. I'm going to

17:20

get that for Christmas when I ask them

17:22

over. When I

17:24

invite them, I'll tell them to have

17:27

Chetna's Christmas jump for compulsory.

17:31

Instead of the many

17:33

different dinners or the really big meals

17:35

that tend to surround Christmas, I'm really

17:38

curious what you do for breakfast. Any

17:41

other Christmas tradition? So

17:44

the one thing that we do for Christmas

17:46

meal, like I said, the roast, and it

17:49

could be late in the afternoon. So we

17:51

don't have any kind of lunch on

17:54

that day. So we tend to wake up

17:56

quite late and then kids want to straight

17:58

away open their presents. And

18:01

then the kids or

18:03

me might make some pancakes and that

18:05

is something we've been doing since they

18:07

were little and it's kind of continued

18:09

so I'm gonna let it continue for

18:12

as long as it can. But it's

18:14

quite nice because they are not like

18:16

super filling but they

18:18

are fresh, ready in minutes and it

18:21

feels a bit special because you

18:23

know obviously we're not having pancakes every day

18:25

for breakfast so it just feels a little

18:27

special. I

18:30

really really love that. What kind of pancakes are they? So

18:33

actually you'd be surprised to know

18:35

that I always make American style

18:38

fluffy pancakes for Christmas Day.

18:41

Yes, fluffy

18:43

pancakes for the win. Yes, absolutely. Do

18:47

you prefer to use an instant mix or do you

18:49

have your own recipe? So

18:52

I am quite surprised people use

18:54

instant mix because I just

18:56

don't get it because it is an instant mix

18:58

when you make it at home. It could not

19:00

be more instant because all you're doing is putting

19:02

a few ingredients in a bowl and mixing it

19:04

up. So what do they take out of the

19:06

packet? I'm sure you have to mix egg in

19:09

it anyway. So what's the difference? So yeah,

19:11

no, I am making

19:14

it myself from scratch. Okay,

19:18

are there any risks or changes that you've

19:20

introduced into this recipe that we may not

19:22

find in a standard fluffy pancake

19:24

recipe? No, not really

19:27

because I think the only difference we do

19:29

is we do the toppings, whatever

19:31

anyone wants. So like one will

19:33

have a chocolate spread and one

19:35

wants banana with syrup or

19:37

you know I want fresh whipped cream

19:41

with whatever fruit there is going at that

19:43

time. The

19:45

actual pancake recipe is not something

19:48

that I have come up with. It's

19:50

just the standard fluffy American style pancakes.

19:53

And it's still so much fun because it lets

19:55

the kids get involved, lets everyone kind of have

19:57

an easier Christmas morning and

20:00

I just love getting a chance to peek

20:02

into your Christmas festivities. Chetna, thank you for

20:04

making time. It's been great chatting with you.

20:07

Oh, same here. Thank you so much. This was so

20:09

fun. Chetna

20:15

is the author of the award-winning Cardamom

20:18

Trail and her latest, Chetna's Indian Feast.

20:20

You can find her one, that recipe

20:22

for Chetna's cheesy potato balls, at theonerecipe.org.

20:25

Just make sure you make them before you head to

20:27

the pub. Okay,

20:31

so next up, let's head to my home

20:33

state, Texas. Hey

20:37

y'all, Chef Tiffany Derry

20:39

here. I have a

20:41

restaurant called Roots Southern Table and Roots

20:44

Chicken Shack, based in Texas, Dallas, and Austin.

20:46

But one of the things that most people

20:48

don't know about is that I actually had

20:50

a golf scholarship before

20:53

turning it down and going to college. I

20:56

had a golf scholarship before turning

20:58

it down and going to culinary

21:00

school. I know! Thank

21:04

God Tiffany traded golfing greens for

21:07

kitchen whites, because this Dallas-based chef

21:09

is killing it right now. If

21:11

you don't already know Tiffany, you'll absolutely agree with

21:13

me once you hear what she's been up to.

21:16

She's a celebrity chef on TV shows

21:19

like Chop, The Great American Recipe, and

21:21

Bobby's Triple Thread, among others. Off-camera,

21:24

she's the chef and owner of multiple

21:26

restaurants across Dallas and Austin. And

21:29

although she's very comfortable in hectic kitchens and in

21:31

front of the camera, she's never

21:33

more at home than when she's surrounded by her

21:35

family as they make eggnog. But that's a

21:37

story that you need to hear from her.

21:39

So, here she is. Tiffany,

21:44

hello! Thank you so much for joining me. Thank

21:46

you for having me! Oh, the

21:49

pleasure is all mine. You

21:51

have always been so

21:54

open. You've never been shy

21:56

about where you draw influences from

21:58

in your restaurants and your cooking. So

22:00

can you tell me a little bit about, you know,

22:03

who is inspiring the food that ends up on your

22:05

table? All inspiration for me

22:07

starts with family. And

22:10

with us, family and food, we

22:12

are connected. I feel like it's

22:14

the connection that keeps me grounded.

22:16

It's what also pushes me. And

22:19

it's where I draw inspiration. My grandmother,

22:21

the matriarch of our family is

22:23

incredible. Goodness, Grace. She's so wonderful.

22:28

She was a single parent for a

22:30

really large part of our lifetime. And

22:32

she had 11 children. They

22:34

moved from Baton Rouge, Port Allen,

22:36

Louisiana to Beaumont, Texas. And

22:39

so the root of my cooking

22:41

is from Louisiana because that's where

22:44

my grandmother pretty much grew up,

22:46

raised children. And that is how

22:48

we ate. And so she

22:50

is the person who has influenced

22:53

my cooking the most. And then

22:55

it goes to my mother, who is the best cook

22:57

in the family. All I

22:59

know is, you know, family members may be coming for

23:01

me now, but we all know it. Cookie is the

23:03

best. They will be all right. They know, they know.

23:05

And so, yeah, so much of that has been passed

23:08

down. And

23:12

I feel like the food that I do is

23:14

so closely tied to family and food and the

23:16

things that I love. And I

23:18

just add on from that. So what I

23:20

love about the way that you talk about

23:23

your grandmother and your mother's cooking is that

23:25

it's also in fear, 100 percent real. And

23:27

to prove just how real you are about it,

23:30

when you opened your first restaurant, you actually

23:32

took the whole team to Louisiana

23:34

to your mom's table so you

23:36

could show them this is the type

23:39

of food I want to make. This is the type of food

23:41

I love and I grew up on. Is that right? That

23:43

is 100 percent correct. So being, you know,

23:45

from Beaumont, there are things that I experienced

23:47

that so many of my team members have

23:50

not. My chefs have no clue what I'm

23:52

talking about when I talk about certain foods.

23:55

And you know, we live here in

23:57

Dallas, Texas now and they just, they're

23:59

from all over. one of my psu

24:01

that from south Carolina's the other it's

24:03

from Puerto Rico so like you know

24:05

talking about southern in the things that's

24:07

i say we the i don't find

24:09

here or i'm. Looking for I needed

24:11

to take him home and the first.

24:14

Stop like it could not be

24:16

a research and development script. With

24:18

our go into my mother's house

24:20

and letting her cloak this guy

24:22

Norm, it's played of gumbo. Bowl

24:24

of gumbo in see hack form

24:26

bread. And then she went off and she

24:28

started this adding things and like what is. Clear

24:31

is a buffet. We have pride

24:33

Second, get. To

24:35

see how like three different pies

24:37

and he just gets so excited

24:40

when we com and they'll never

24:42

forgive. With amazing your mom was

24:44

so ready to to say hey

24:46

listen to those Just the beginning

24:48

of what I can do. Our

24:50

normal men while so definitely her

24:52

moment not have a quote see

24:54

and you have so much experience

24:56

cooking for a massive crowd because

24:58

you have a really big family

25:00

right? Guess so. My my mom

25:02

has seen other brothers and sisters

25:05

so alone with that. Yeah, exactly.

25:07

And then there's like fifty thousand

25:10

total and I'm me. It's is.

25:12

it keeps growing. you know? I

25:14

guess there's a lot of us

25:17

who you have this massive family.

25:19

You have this whole competition of

25:22

codes. In the family through

25:24

all biden the to take center

25:26

stage wouldn't. You. Know like a

25:28

holiday meal look like for y'all. Are

25:30

he did He ever buys his

25:33

yacht from the advice but it's

25:35

actually very normals for I'd so.

25:37

My family because we're. so large

25:40

there's not a house no one

25:42

has huge home where been wanting

25:44

goes it's still it's broken out

25:46

so people are in that sits

25:48

in people are in the living

25:50

rooms that the and dining room

25:52

the garage so the garage it's

25:54

usually the main as whites of

25:56

the house where everything is there's

25:58

at least twenty something some shaping

26:00

dishes, things that are

26:02

laid out. There's no one protein

26:04

type of thing. I

26:07

have this story. I went to a

26:09

friend's house for Thanksgiving one year and

26:11

it was small and it was the first time I

26:13

had been away from my family. So I was like,

26:15

oh, okay. Well, you know, I had to work

26:17

the day before I had to work the day after. So

26:19

I was like, you know what? I'm just going

26:21

to do it. My mom was like, do it.

26:24

I go and it is like six dishes. I'm

26:29

like, where's the rest of the food? It was

26:31

just not our Thanksgiving. No

26:34

shade, no disrespect to anyone who

26:36

is making those six dinners or

26:39

meals. But also when you're coming

26:41

from, you know, a buffet

26:43

in every room of the house, it wasn't

26:45

the Johnson's. It wasn't the Johnson's. That's what

26:47

I was looking for. And

26:51

just for the record, for anyone who doesn't

26:53

know, Johnson is your maiden name. Yes, yes,

26:56

yes. So that's the thing.

26:59

It's just you just

27:01

have to manage people's expectations. So could you

27:03

kind of walk me through what a

27:06

Johnson menu would look like? What would be

27:08

on the flip? Oh, here we go. Okay.

27:10

So let's start with protein because that's always

27:12

my favorite. Okay. We got to stretch first.

27:14

And everyone has roles to play here. This

27:16

is not a you just come and eat

27:18

and go kind of thing. We

27:21

cook the same thing every year. Like

27:23

this is your dish and you must

27:25

eat it or else you're going to

27:27

get talked about. Okay. All right. So

27:29

we have pork roast, beef roast, because

27:32

not everybody wants pork roast. We have

27:34

fried chicken that's usually fried while we

27:36

get ready before you get served. There

27:38

is a ham. There

27:40

is duck sitting on

27:43

top of cornbread dressing. There

27:45

is some other

27:47

turkey wings, whole turkey

27:49

roasted. And there is oxtails,

27:53

like braised ox. You're gonna have something with a

27:55

gravy. Duh, right? And

27:58

so there is at least eight. to nine

28:00

proteins, for sure. Then

28:03

we move into our carbs, the

28:07

love. So mac

28:09

and cheese, dirty rice,

28:12

red rice, which is sort of

28:14

jambalayish, but just with chicken and

28:16

sausage, potato salad. Then you

28:19

have like greens and green beans

28:21

and cabbage and corn, oh,

28:23

my auntie does this corn with

28:25

crawfish, always very good. She does

28:27

a crawfish cornbread dressing, which is

28:29

also there. She's in a crawfish

28:31

thing. She runs that theme. And

28:34

honestly, it just keeps going. And then

28:36

someone always wants to get fancy and

28:38

add something on to feel like, I saw

28:40

this recipe and I wanted to try it out.

28:42

And the family is usually like, yeah, that's not

28:45

it. That's gonna be at the end

28:47

of the table. That's gonna be

28:49

in the living room. That

28:52

sounds amazing. Are there any

28:54

dishes that you feel like you have to

28:56

have around the holidays? Oh, every Christmas I

28:58

look forward to gumbo and I

29:00

look forward to eggnog. It's

29:03

not Christmas if we don't have my

29:05

mother's eggnog. And this is warm.

29:08

So it is a hot eggnog, not cold. I

29:11

didn't even know eggnog was supposed to

29:13

be cold. Like I grew up drinking

29:15

hot eggnog and my grandmother, so

29:18

we're clear, my grandmother

29:20

said that eggnog is drunk

29:23

in the winter because it's cold

29:25

outside and you use the hot

29:28

liquid and that's what warms your

29:30

soul. So I grew up

29:32

having hot eggnog, which is basically like a,

29:34

like a crumb and glaze or like a

29:36

vanilla flavor, lots of

29:38

fresh nutmeg, lots of cinnamon. And

29:40

then they take the egg whites

29:42

and they float them on top. So almost

29:44

like, you know, like a floating island would

29:46

be, it is so good. And

29:49

if you're, you know, if you wanna put your

29:51

thing, your little adult beverage in there, you do,

29:53

but in our house, we actually don't. So we

29:55

just drink it straight and people do what they

29:57

wanna do at home. Okay, that sounds great. but

30:00

I gotta know about that gumbo. I

30:02

have to have gumbo. Like gumbo is

30:04

my heart. It is my

30:07

love language. It is something so special to

30:09

me. And I eat it often because we

30:11

have it at the restaurant, but I put

30:13

it on the restaurant menu because I

30:16

feel like I'm away from home and I don't

30:18

get to have it. So I was like, this

30:20

is gonna be it. And it turned, it's our

30:22

biggest seller. It is the

30:24

thing that people order to go. Like

30:26

you'll see it go out. Someone orders

30:28

it at the table and then that

30:30

same table needs two more. If

30:35

that's not the highest form of phrase, I don't know

30:37

what is. I'm like, oh yeah,

30:39

they tasted it. Oh yeah. You

30:42

could also see the orders of other people at the other

30:44

tables being like, actually can I get whatever that was? Whatever

30:47

it was. I didn't even see it. I just

30:49

smelled it. I need it. Yes, yes. And it's

30:51

a typical, like this is Louisiana style. And honestly,

30:53

you know, there's so many

30:55

versions of gumbo. Like there is no

30:57

specific right or wrong, but we all

31:00

have very strong opinions about them. Anybody

31:03

that loves gumbo. And I hear them

31:05

all the time. But for us, it was

31:07

almost like a kitchen sink because we

31:09

would do shrimp, crab, chicken and

31:11

sausage in the gumbo. So, you

31:13

know, you have this very flavorful,

31:15

the room needs to be the

31:18

right consistency, the right color, not

31:20

too thick, not too thin. And

31:23

you know, it's just, it's an art, I feel

31:25

like to make gumbo. I already know

31:27

the second you said gumbo, a lot

31:29

of people got real nervous. A lot

31:31

of people got really, I don't know,

31:33

a little intimidated just because a lot

31:36

of people think gumbo lots of ingredients.

31:38

You know, you really have to babysit the rue.

31:41

It's so prone to burning if you look

31:43

away at the wrong time. So

31:45

can you kind of walk me through it

31:47

and walk me through how you do it

31:50

to avoid some of those common mistakes? Yeah,

31:52

so it's all about the rue. If

31:55

your gumbo rue is not right, your

31:57

gumbo will never be what it's supposed

31:59

to be. And when

32:01

we're talking about roux, we're talking about a

32:03

flour and oil. In a lot of French

32:05

cooking, they use flour and butter to do

32:08

roux. But because you need this really dark

32:11

chocolate color roux, the butter would

32:13

burn. So we use oil to

32:15

make a dark brown roux. So

32:18

it's the idea that

32:20

flour and oil cook

32:23

down together, turns into

32:25

this almost popcorn, almost,

32:27

it goes through, you know, peanut butter.

32:30

Like as you're cooking the roux, you smell

32:32

it. The biggest issue is standing over the

32:34

stove, stirring it because it's prone

32:36

to burning. The trick that we

32:38

do is we put it in the oven. So we simply

32:41

mix our flour with our oil,

32:43

get it into a hot oven,

32:45

and let it cook slower. And

32:48

then you don't have to stir it as often. So

32:50

if we cook it in the oven for

32:52

an hour and a half, I only stir

32:54

three times. So every 30 minutes and

32:57

let it cook, it's a beautiful

32:59

trick because we make such large batches at the

33:01

restaurant. And what temperature are you

33:03

cooking that at? Because I, if

33:05

you're stirring it three times, you must be losing some

33:07

heat. You know, you must be, you know,

33:10

having to start from scratch and build that temperature back

33:13

up in the oven, right? Yeah, well, 350

33:15

is what we do. But you'll see,

33:17

you'll see that the heat

33:20

stays in that roux, right?

33:22

Like I don't know if you, anybody

33:24

that's made roux understands, like it's easy

33:26

to burn yourself, right? So this is

33:28

a good way. I'm traumatized.

33:31

I'm like blocking out past the

33:33

breeze. No one think about it.

33:36

Yeah, I know it's easy to burn. So

33:38

that allows you just to cook it very, very

33:41

easily. So then you're working with like a

33:43

meatier gumbo, right? So do you

33:45

have any recommendations for people who may not

33:47

be able to find, you know, some of

33:49

those iconic sausages or some of the other

33:51

just kind of like crawfish or Louisiana staples?

33:53

I just want people to understand that once you make

33:55

your roux and once you get the base, you

33:59

can really do what you want. like. It's not

34:01

about having this very specific brand

34:03

or these things. I mean I who

34:06

am I to say that I mean I believe in the sausage

34:08

I believe in but that's just a personal. So

34:10

whatever is personal to them if they like a

34:12

sausage they can do it if they don't want

34:15

to then don't use that sausage right so you

34:17

can really use you can make it with seafood

34:19

you can do it with whatever proteins you like

34:21

have fun with it. So then as

34:24

you're wrapping it up and you're bringing it all together what

34:26

is the finishing touch that you think other people

34:29

really need to incorporate into their gumbo? I

34:31

think the bigger issue is that I love

34:33

okra in it and a lot of people

34:35

don't love okra and it's because they haven't

34:38

had it the right way. So a couple tricks

34:40

that I always believe for the gumbo one make the

34:42

roux in the oven it saves you all the time

34:44

you get everything else done make a

34:46

really good stock so that brings in the

34:48

flavor you know whether that's a chicken stock

34:50

whether it's a seafood stock use your shrimp

34:52

shells and make it but the

34:54

third is I roast the okra in a very

34:56

hot oven so at about 400 degrees I roast

34:59

that of that okra get all of that

35:01

texture out of it and then you're left

35:04

with the flavor the okra also thickens the

35:06

gumbo slightly so you don't want it to

35:08

be too too thick when you start doing

35:10

that and then finish with

35:12

gumbo filet I mean filet is

35:14

sassafras that is like the flavor

35:16

that we get from gumbo and

35:19

then from there you can make your

35:21

own make your new tradition. Listen choose

35:23

your own adventure Tiffany thank you so

35:25

much for having me I need to

35:28

crash a family gathering a Christmas a

35:30

Thanksgiving anything I can with your family

35:32

thank you for being here and happy

35:34

holidays thank you happy holidays everyone Tiffany

35:42

Derry is the chef and donor of

35:44

Root Southern Table and her latest radicchi

35:47

she's also a judge for various food

35:49

shows including the great American recipe you

35:51

can find her recipe for her gumbo at the one

35:53

recipe dot org you

36:07

Now that we've gotten an appetizer and a main

36:09

course out of the way, it's onto a topic

36:11

that will either excite or

36:14

terrify you. Dessert. It's

36:17

the Last Turtle, the final boss standing

36:19

strong after you've conquered everything else on

36:21

the menu. But don't worry, you

36:24

won't have to face that challenge alone, because we have a

36:26

friend who is here to help. I'm

36:29

Matt Adlod. I'm a self-taught pastry chef,

36:31

an influencer, and actually now a US best-selling

36:33

author, which I can say about myself. And

36:36

my fun fact is, out of

36:38

the holidays a few years ago, I

36:40

decided to whip out Cards Against Humanity

36:42

that Christmas, and that just turned out to

36:44

be the wrong idea, because you don't want

36:46

to be playing Cards Against Humanity with your granddad,

36:48

and things did not turn out well for me.

36:52

Matt Adlod is a self-taught baker and

36:54

constant creator from Norwich, England. In 2015,

36:57

he created the popular blog Popless Baker,

36:59

which quickly went viral after its launch.

37:02

Now he serves as a judge on the Food Network. He's

37:04

also the author of the best-selling cookbook, Bake It

37:06

Better. Listen up! Matt,

37:09

happy holidays! Hey, it's a pleasure

37:12

to be back with you. It's

37:14

always so good to have you back. What have

37:16

you been up to for the holidays? Hey, well,

37:18

holidays, family, you know, I've got

37:20

a son now, so like, everybody needs

37:22

to see the kids. So yeah, we're

37:24

going to be traveling up and down

37:27

the country, seeing my wife's

37:29

parents, seeing my parents, and yeah, it's

37:31

going to be a really nice, relaxing

37:33

time. I think the year has been

37:35

crazy. I released a book, and I'm

37:37

ready to sleep and eat, and just

37:40

turn my phone off and spend time

37:42

with everyone. Oh, that sounds amazing. So

37:45

in addition to introducing your family to

37:48

the baby, what do you and

37:50

the rest of the Adlards do in the

37:52

lead-up to Christmas? Well, we've got such a

37:55

big family now, so every year can be

37:57

very different. up

38:00

the Christmas, usually what we'll do is we

38:02

will have like an early Christmas with my

38:04

local families and we'll celebrate that all together.

38:07

So we'll do the full holiday celebration, the

38:09

food, the presents, the hats, the crackers, I

38:11

mean absolutely everything. And then once

38:13

we've done that, we'll then usually drive to my

38:16

wife's parents' house and we'll do that all

38:18

over again. So we'll kind of have two

38:21

holidays within the space of like four days.

38:23

So we kind of get to do it

38:25

twice. You get a real variation of presents,

38:27

of food, of celebrations, and people falling asleep.

38:30

So you get to experience like every

38:32

type of holiday within four days. Oh

38:35

my gosh, I feel like that's one of the best things

38:37

about growing up and just having both

38:39

your own small family gathering, but

38:41

also the big family to do

38:43

as well. And with a dad

38:45

who's also a chef, and you

38:47

being an incredible pastry pro,

38:50

I feel like y'all's tables are incredibly well stocked.

38:52

It is, you know, I remember I have a

38:54

really distinct memory of my dad being like, right,

38:56

this year we're going to do a bird within

38:58

a bird within a bird. So I think it

39:00

was a, it

39:03

was a turkey stuffed with a chicken stuffed

39:06

with a partridge. And I mean, like

39:08

you're deboning so many birds. And

39:10

you know, it was incredible just the effort

39:12

that he went into to create this dish.

39:14

But for him, it was just no big

39:17

deal. Like, yeah, yeah, a bird within a

39:19

bird within, you know, cooking a chicken is

39:21

hard enough, but trying to do three birds

39:23

in one and cook them perfectly. Oh my

39:25

goodness. And already your rendition, or I guess

39:27

your dad's rendition of the bird within a

39:29

bird within a bird, so much fancy and

39:31

more put together than like the Louisiana, Texas

39:33

tradition of the turducken, which are ducks

39:36

stuffed inside of chicken stuffed inside of

39:38

turkeys, all of which have been deboned,

39:40

but I'm sure they're much less fancy

39:43

and composed as

39:46

your bird spectacular. They're already like prepped and

39:48

then you just like go home and you

39:50

shove them in the oven. Absolutely. And then

39:52

we just take all of the credit. We

39:54

just smile and nod and say, yeah, we

39:56

deboned us ourselves. I think it's okay to let

39:58

you know someone is more full of butchering birds.

40:00

So just it's okay to buy that to duck in

40:02

from somebody else. And then you've got to have the

40:04

skills to cook it. That's a whole, that's

40:07

probably 90% of the job, to be honest.

40:09

Right? See, we're both working hard here. But

40:12

you grew up with this Michelin star chef

40:15

as your dad cooking at home. Are

40:17

there any other recipes that you love for

40:19

the holidays? Okay, so my dad as well,

40:21

you know, there's always potatoes at the holidays,

40:24

like roast potatoes are very big in England,

40:26

some kind of potato dish. But

40:28

my dad does mashed potatoes. And

40:31

his mashed potatoes are just unbelievable.

40:34

So remember, he would

40:36

use like a baking potato, you bake it in the

40:38

oven, and then you take, you know,

40:40

a good hour to two hours, you scoop

40:42

out the potato from the flesh, and

40:45

you pass it through a sieve. So he used, I remember

40:47

he had this massive like industrial

40:49

commercial, fine mesh sieve, and

40:51

he'd use a plastic scraper to spend

40:53

so long just passing this potato through

40:55

the sieve into a pan. And you

40:57

get this mash that is so

41:00

smooth. It is incredible. And

41:02

he slaves over the mashed potatoes. So

41:04

instead of roast potatoes, we're usually having

41:06

some kind of pompere, which is beautifully

41:08

smooth with butter and salt and pepper

41:10

and milk. And so even now, like

41:12

if I'm making mashed potato, even

41:15

for my son who's having, you know, like a

41:17

basic dinner, I'm like, I have to sieve the

41:19

mashed potatoes. So dad's like Christmas mashed potatoes now

41:22

live throughout the year, every time you make mashed potatoes,

41:24

they have to be sieved. That

41:26

sounds beautiful. So what else

41:28

shows up on your holiday table? You

41:31

know, I think the thing about holidays for

41:33

us is because there's so many kind of

41:35

cooks, especially on my side of the family,

41:37

not every year is the triple cooked

41:39

bird or the

41:41

roast chicken or the you know, whatever it

41:44

is, we usually you turn up and you

41:46

honestly have no idea what's going to be

41:48

served because everyone brings something quite creative to

41:50

the table. So, you know, my

41:52

brother-in-law is really into like fried chicken

41:54

with Japanese flavors and Mexican food. And

41:56

so you might end up with like

41:58

a slow cooked Mexican meat and

42:00

then dad's throwing a chicken in the

42:02

oven and then we've got mashed potatoes.

42:04

I mean, honestly, you just get this

42:06

whole blend of worlds and flavors. And

42:09

so that's what's quite exciting about the

42:11

holidays. Does anyone ever get competitive or

42:13

really ambitious with what they're cooking? Probably

42:15

from like a dessert aspect, you know, obviously

42:17

I'm the one bringing the dessert. I'm usually

42:19

competing with myself and trying to kind of

42:21

one up what I was doing the previous

42:23

year. There's like a few staple recipes I'll

42:26

always bring. But then I'm like, right, should

42:28

I do like a mirror glazed entremé? With

42:30

a spider web effect on top

42:32

or should I do a three

42:34

tiered cake? I mean, I bring desserts that make

42:36

no sense to be serving at the holidays, but

42:38

I'm just like, what's going to be really extravagant

42:41

and look incredible? And so I'll end up working

42:43

on something that has nothing to do with the

42:45

holidays, but I'm just challenging myself anyways. I love

42:47

that, though, because it's so much fun. And when

42:49

else do you have the time to just commit

42:51

yourself to a project like this where it's fun

42:54

and it's impactful, too? And I'm obviously

42:56

baking all day for a living. You know, every

42:58

day is about creating content and making recipes for

43:00

people. So when you get kind of the two

43:02

week break for the holidays, it's interesting to kind

43:04

of sit back and be like, OK, what am

43:06

I going to make for myself? Like, what do

43:08

I really want to cook that I'm going to

43:10

enjoy? And so that's when all

43:12

the kind of creativity unleashes and you're right,

43:14

this is going to be this incredible dessert

43:17

I've been thinking of for six months. So

43:19

going with the theme of the holidays,

43:21

what's your one recipe for the holidays?

43:23

So for my others, there's kind of

43:26

two recipes I usually bring. And but

43:28

the one really traditional holiday recipe to

43:30

keep within the theme is a yule

43:32

log. I don't know if you guys

43:34

eat yule logs in the States,

43:36

but a yule log is like a very traditional

43:40

British recipe. So what I do

43:42

is a chocolate

43:44

sponge, which is a really simple chocolate sponge. And the secrets

43:46

of the sponge is a little bit of oil in it.

43:48

So the oil makes the sponge really flexible

43:50

because a yule log is essentially

43:53

like a sponge that's filled with cream and you roll

43:55

it up. If you don't get the

43:57

recipe of the sponge right, what happens is it

43:59

cracks as you're rolling it up and it looks a bit

44:01

messy. So a little bit of oil in

44:03

the recipe is really the secret. And then I

44:05

keep the filling super simple. So because

44:07

it's the holidays, I usually do like an Irish

44:09

cream, whipped cream filling. So I use a little

44:11

bit of Baileys, heavy double cream,

44:14

a bit of sugar, a bit of vanilla, and you

44:16

just whip that to kind of a medium stiff peak.

44:18

You roll that onto the sponge, roll it up into

44:20

a nice tight circle, and then you just dust it

44:22

with cocoa powder. You can dust

44:24

it with powdered sugar, and it's really simple

44:26

and it's very light because I find that

44:28

when you've been eating so much throughout the

44:31

day, you know, you've had like canopies and starters

44:33

and mains. When it gets dessert, I've

44:35

put all this effort in and everyone's like, I

44:37

don't want dessert. And so doing something that

44:39

looks really impressive, but is also quite light on

44:42

the palate is quite important. So I always bring

44:44

the Yule Log. That's kind of my go to

44:46

as well as other desserts I'm

44:48

creating in my mind. Perfect holiday

44:50

dessert. And for people who

44:52

are struggling to kind of visualize it, it

44:55

really does end up looking like a log.

44:57

How intentionally do you try to make the

44:59

exterior look like bark or pieces of a

45:02

fallen tree? So when I first did it,

45:04

so I remember that I remember like

45:06

kind of just started my career and I remember

45:08

doing it and you sometimes you put like ganache

45:10

on the outside and use a fork to kind

45:12

of spread the ganache. So it looks like a

45:14

tree bark. And I remember putting a picture up

45:16

on Christmas day and I said to my brother,

45:18

I'm like, this post is going to pop. I

45:20

mean, he was back in the days of Instagram

45:22

and you just posted photos. It's like everybody is

45:25

going to love this Yule Log that I made.

45:27

This is going to be like my biggest, most

45:29

popular post. And he was awful. I now look

45:31

back at the picture and this is such

45:33

a terrible photo. Oh no.

45:36

What I've done is I've kind of like, I've

45:38

kind of refined the design of it. So now I

45:40

just have like the sponge with the cream in the

45:42

middle and I kind of forego the log

45:45

effect on the outside because I have like scarred

45:47

memories of posting that photo and thinking it was going

45:49

to be the most viral picture

45:51

of a Yule Log. I don't know what I was thinking,

45:53

but yeah, the log effect is now gone, but it is

45:55

really easy to do if you do want to do it

45:58

at home, just put a little bit ganache on the outside.

46:00

and use a fork and just kind of

46:02

scrape the fork around the outside and it will look

46:04

like a lock. Movie magic right in your kitchen. So

46:07

then what is that second recipe? I'm so

46:09

curious. So the other one is a real

46:11

staple within our family. So we do, it's

46:14

my dad's lemon tart. So anyone who's ever

46:16

followed me, you'll kind of hear me talk

46:18

about lemon tart like over and over again

46:20

and say, what's the recipe you'd, the

46:22

only dessert you could ever have for the rest of your life and

46:24

it's my dad's lemon tart. He is, he was

46:26

a mission star chef and he was a renowned for this lemon

46:28

tart. And so I've kind of taken that recipe

46:31

now and elevated it. I would

46:33

say I've made it slightly better with

46:35

my pastry prowess, shall we say. And

46:38

so, my dad's lemon tart, which is

46:40

simple kind of sweet pastry,

46:42

a pat-sou-crae as he would say in French

46:44

on the base. You blind bake

46:46

that and then you make this lemon filling, which

46:49

is really simple to fold together. It's just eggs,

46:51

cream, sugar, lemon juice,

46:53

lemon zest. And

46:55

the key is that really blending it till it's

46:57

nice and smooth. You sieve out all that lemon

46:59

zest in the end so you don't

47:01

get any little lumps in the actual tart and

47:03

then you just blow torch it just before it

47:05

goes into the tart shell. That gets rid of

47:07

all the air bubbles and you get this really

47:09

smooth, clean lemon filling, which

47:12

is just honestly the perfect balance

47:14

of citrus and tartness and sweetness.

47:16

And anybody who's ever had the

47:18

lemon tart says, wow, that is really the best

47:20

lemon tart I've had. So the recipes in my

47:22

book, I've kind of tweaked it and perfected it

47:24

now and did tell my dad that it's better

47:26

than his. So I should call it my lemon

47:28

tart, Matt's lemon tart. Take it back.

47:30

And one day, soon after your child

47:33

will be ready to say, hey, Matt,

47:35

get out of the way. It's time. I've served

47:37

it to him and he doesn't like it. I'm

47:40

like, Reuben, like this is a family tradition. You

47:42

have to eat lemon tart. And he spits out,

47:44

no, daddy, don't like, don't like, like Reuben, you

47:46

need to learn this recipe. I mean, I even

47:48

dedicated it to him in the book. You need

47:51

to learn how to make lemon tart. This is

47:53

essential. So he will get there

47:55

one day and it will be Reuben's lemon tart. Matt,

47:58

thank you so much for sharing. all of

48:00

your family's recipes with us. I cannot

48:02

wait to introduce them to my table.

48:05

Happy holidays! And to you too. Matt

48:10

Adlard is the author of Bake It Better.

48:12

You've gotta have a yule log at least

48:14

once on your holiday table, so go for

48:16

it. You can find his recipe

48:18

for his modern take on a yule log

48:20

at the1recipe.org. And that's

48:23

all folks! We hope you've enjoyed this holiday

48:25

episode of the One Recipe. I cannot wait

48:27

to spend time with my community again. In

48:30

The Sparks Crew, holidays are kind of

48:32

like our March Madness, so even though

48:34

things get a little rowdy between the

48:37

free-flowing strings and the many humiliating family

48:39

stories that always seem to come

48:41

out of the woodwork around these times,

48:43

we'll still just enjoy being together. I

48:46

hope you're able to make the most of this time

48:48

too, however that looks for you. Just be

48:50

sure to celebrate the people you love, and

48:53

be sure to let them love on YouTube. Happy

48:55

holidays everyone! Our

49:03

show was produced by Sally's List,

49:05

Erika Romero, and associate producers Ryn

49:07

Farrell and Maria Wertel, technical director

49:09

Dara Ramirez, and digital producer James

49:11

Napoli. Sally's List is our

49:13

managing producer. Special thanks this week to Ray

49:15

Schilland at Radio Lounge and to Steve Griffith,

49:17

who always manages to make the schedules work.

49:20

APM Studios executives in charge are

49:22

Chonzo Cavasi, Joanne Griffiths, and Alex

49:24

Shaffert. Best Perman is our executive

49:27

producer. The One Recipe was created

49:29

by Sally Swift and Erika Romero. I'm

49:31

Jesse Sparks, this is APM Studios. Go

49:33

make some holiday magic!