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chains Different the best time of

1:01

year to go shopping when.

1:03

i was a teenager i would wait till early january

1:06

to get the cheapest steals and so my closet

1:08

with clothes have been marked down after

1:10

black friday and christmas i

1:12

would go to the mall and find myself a

1:14

cheap version of nicole richie is

1:17

now Judy skinny jeans

1:19

that high for you. Really have to

1:21

wait for doorbuster season or start

1:23

the clearance isle like that anymore you,

1:26

can buy currents celebrity inspired

1:28

clothes that are really cheap see

1:30

time of year. because somewhere on

1:32

tick tock someone is trying to sell you

1:35

a knockoff version The cat see that

1:37

party be war a few weeks ago. Enter

1:40

the word for this now ubiquitous

1:42

sash and phenomenon I feel

1:44

like so.

1:45

Many customers and consumers

1:47

have become aware of the word. Which

1:49

had such action.

1:53

Harry One is a reporter for the goods

1:56

by Vox, so when a talk

1:58

about fast fashion. The of though.

2:01

That I'm including, like, kind of, the system.

2:03

That enable it, the basically

2:05

that.

2:05

Fashion is any kind

2:07

of like to see. The ball kind

2:09

of clothing that made. Hey,

2:12

indiscriminate me, I'm with out.

2:14

The no consideration for environmental

2:17

and labor conditions and these

2:19

articles of clothing these garments

2:21

are usually mass produced. How

2:23

can you tell us something as fast as and? The

2:26

usually pace is. Pretty good

2:28

indicator of how an

2:30

article of clothing as need or how brands

2:32

producer clothes. But I think

2:34

it's important to consider that the system

2:36

that enable fast fashion the outsourcing

2:39

of the labor under that it

2:41

speed of manufacturing. Production

2:43

on are no longer just exclusive to

2:46

these brands and desire as each

2:48

Nam to the forever twenty one of the world. The

2:50

word and fast as and come from. The

2:53

nineties during the time were young,

2:55

millennia old and older

2:58

members of Generation VI. Grab

3:00

during that time with one arm,

3:03

fast fashion really took off and

3:05

I think the company that people, as he said.

3:08

When at the most as Ira death

3:10

in a Spanish apparel beach hilarious,

3:12

their credited. For having the first

3:15

successful in a fast fashion business model.

3:20

I. Think for the past twenty

3:22

years we've gotten really use to

3:24

seasonal it's clothing, at least for retailers

3:27

that are not luxury fashion brands

3:30

in as far as founder decided to. Abandon

3:32

the concept of producing fashion

3:35

seasons for a new styles

3:37

that came and every couple of weeks

3:40

arm and now kind of as we've

3:42

had reached the seek assassin production

3:45

new. Styles are being released in

3:47

stores and on a website pretty much

3:49

every day so to go to in a snowstorm

3:52

today and come back to this later, you will always

3:54

find. Something new, hundreds, if not

3:57

thousands of styles are being released

3:59

into that. A baronet as a

4:01

shock to my favorite thing to were anointed er just because

4:03

they're que si just some other my. Favorite

4:05

type of where is to come see any

4:07

style you?

4:08

Why is so accessible,

4:11

so that's what Amazon?

4:16

A cramped one.

4:17

Am I think that's what it looks like the first when

4:19

I so does this one's a little?

4:21

That link, whether you're going in a store

4:23

or you're going basically on the

4:25

Internet search for a very specific

4:27

kind of style.

4:29

So I did it, I got on that

4:31

sheen website as h I

4:33

e n e I n I don't know,

4:35

and I wanted to be like everybody else.

4:37

I ordered a bunch of stuff that's

4:39

just really fascinating to me because they think department

4:41

stores and fashion designers used

4:44

to dictate what women

4:46

could wear what was in the first season

4:48

with in for a year now,.

4:52

hogwash a and now

4:54

while there are you know trends that Getting

4:56

teens or out or flir genes are

4:58

in, you can speak, we still finds

5:00

out these kinds of or. Not like

5:03

know when it's pretty in anything any more

5:05

like. Then you go on I'm a website

5:07

these probably still have that. They're just

5:10

producing a lot less to bed.

5:14

We're talking a lot about women's clothing here,

5:17

but does is also apply to men, sassine

5:19

or center neutral clothing or plus

5:21

size clothing.

5:23

Yeah, this applies to virtually every

5:25

shopper, just because kind of that

5:27

system as. That question has become

5:30

so prevalent and all kinds of modern

5:32

retailers and, which

5:34

friends we talk about we think about that fashion

5:36

has also change. so about

5:38

ten years ago and when we were

5:40

growing up vara each nem says

5:43

or twenty one would offend considered

5:45

these They're the most identifiable

5:47

brands and, but they're now kind

5:49

of thing Reading and hands of cultural balance

5:52

and over, the past on

5:54

even five years to these ultra fast

5:56

fashion brand. brand some fits

5:59

don't even have to

6:00

And he applied for me

6:02

on mine and mark that they're that

6:04

they're so some.

6:05

Any sort of namesake you know he says

6:08

misguided fashioned know that cn

6:11

a boo hoo so it's really that

6:14

fast. fashion is the system has really

6:16

proliferate at

6:17

Let's talk about how much these clothes

6:19

costs because you could probably

6:22

buy a really fancy latte

6:24

for about the same price as a thing.

6:26

Fashion shirt he got very, very low

6:29

and I came across as articles near times

6:31

and should add it to them around the

6:33

time of the great recession a minute.

6:35

That, as consumers are just

6:38

a soaring prepared for gasoline, sued

6:40

education and medical care, just about

6:42

the only thing that for. The bargain stage

6:44

is clothes or mainstream clothes. And

6:47

while the prices luxor close

6:49

as gonna have it become easier and easier,

6:52

it never to sign, you know, a T

6:54

shirt to our pair of pants from just

6:56

some nearly twenty dollars. How?

6:58

Did close like this become almost

7:00

standard, is it because some of these

7:03

companies like A, so

7:05

it's an M. C. N., those were

7:08

kind of made for the digital revolution

7:10

currently? I think I'm from a

7:12

business perspective as it made

7:14

a lot of sense for all kinds of

7:16

retailers to shift to

7:19

the rabbit production pays because

7:21

it significantly increases profit

7:23

margin. It also kind of trains

7:25

customary even before the

7:27

social media air. Keep coming back

7:30

to story because there ain't no

7:32

always something new like why

7:34

would a customer wanted and

7:36

hundred dollars or two hundred dollars and one

7:38

alarm when it? Forget about enough

7:40

for items for the thing, pay. Having

7:44

a say that social media is directly

7:46

correlated with fast fashion size,

7:48

I think it makes more sense to say

7:50

that it contributed to her

7:52

sappers can see above and discover

7:55

session on a regular person

7:57

you know like. Suddenly fuel pump. On

8:00

shit, posting an outfit twice on their

8:02

feet. They feel like

8:04

they don't have a nice enough clothes

8:06

to show off. The so

8:08

I definitely think that social media has

8:10

contributed to that self awareness.

8:13

That desire to present yourself before

8:15

me for the Internet more specific way

8:17

through your clothes. Yeah,

8:19

I can see fast fashion, making it very

8:21

easy to have a different o

8:23

t. D everyday

8:25

for brunch.

8:28

team top is R's leather

8:30

pants are misguided", says.

8:35

The are on sale.

8:37

That my Amazon custody seeing

8:39

how much food saw things and

8:41

that it is interesting because

8:43

it's become so much is.

8:44

There were fast fashion bands

8:47

also to crab off these

8:49

high fashion lux from popular celebrities.

8:52

The market these clothes, if an insect friend,

8:54

anything to talk. Especially

8:56

is notorious for the. Bringing

8:59

to light views, underground aesthetics

9:01

or internet.

9:02

Trans Am, I pod it's core a dark

9:05

academia that I got this call

9:07

it "white shirt", the South Korea jumper

9:09

and the sleeves and base stats together

9:11

that I tried to bomb the MIHAI the did not

9:14

work retailers can produce.

9:16

Clothing, that fits that aesthetic

9:18

and directly Target to a young audience. So

9:21

a celebrity's address in Instagram post

9:23

or on the runway might

9:26

inspire a knockoff version on she

9:28

has, but does the relationship work

9:30

in reverse? also does fast

9:32

fashion have the power to influence

9:35

high end designers and runways awesome

9:38

Yeah. So it's friends are

9:41

just really fleeting and to see

9:43

any age and they're no longer as

9:45

reliant on one leg, the third

9:47

party kid and more than on social

9:49

media morality. Is the word we are

9:51

seeing kind of like a symbiotic

9:54

relationship happening with know,

9:56

whatever it's popular on to talk

9:58

and? Three band. Oh, fair

10:00

one. The cash an hour to get in

10:03

on that site. We're also

10:05

seeing kind of made Lux Ray bans

10:08

like Made Wow or it's, yeah.

10:10

Permission also relying on

10:12

fast fashion productions of sons

10:15

and friends to keep up. Confronting

10:18

a really interesting. And I realized

10:20

a couple of weeks ago when I was shopping.

10:23

I'm sandro, it's freezing brand

10:26

on it, say it admitted to fuse. Then.

10:29

Manufacturing as exercise session

10:31

with luck, three craftsmanship so

10:34

that I can achieve modern consumer,

10:36

as I thought that explanation

10:38

was so fascinating, it seems like

10:41

luxury brands also have to think.

10:43

In terms of fast fashion so they can

10:45

see peace and stay relevant in

10:48

such a rapidly changing environment are.

10:51

using made wow and luxury brands

10:53

like referee

10:54

The center has fasten I would say

10:57

that they rely on sensations, the said I

11:00

wouldn't say they're,

11:00

you know, ultra fast fashion brands,

11:03

but I do think there's a lot of greenwashing

11:05

involved in how

11:07

they Market themselves. I wouldn't say. They're

11:09

entirely like a sickly or staying

11:11

at all since

11:14

sorry.

11:16

I

11:18

really thought I was doing well more

11:20

on that

11:27

But

11:29

really, we'll talk more about that after

11:31

the break.

11:46

This episode is brought to you by Ben

11:48

& Jerry's in the mood,

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Slash Nuns area.

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so nice out there out there in the

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Mexican markets for chili, stretch in the

12:20

sun, high in, the mountains are between

12:22

Backcountry, skis and kids doing the

12:24

first snow plow. We're next to the pool

12:26

after a long day. And what

12:28

day it is to

12:30

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12:33

Austin us that went away.

12:34

And when you save on travel is an Expedia member, you

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12:46

like my denim on denim.

12:50

Terry

12:53

Weaver. established that fast fashion is

12:55

cheap. Twenty four and

12:57

more prevalent than people may realize. What

12:59

is the? Water cost of this industry.

13:02

Yeah, it's not just cheap clothing,

13:05

I think I wanna emphasize it's also

13:07

just the sheer amount as clothing

13:09

that the sash and it's. It producing year

13:11

over year last year, I interviewed

13:14

an age or barber. A. Writer and activist

13:16

to publish this book club consumed

13:19

and in it, she wrote: "This really starting

13:21

to suspect that the industry produces

13:24

fourteen times as many clothes each

13:26

year and there's. Humans and the planet,

13:29

and that number has stuck with me

13:31

sense that, you know, with the

13:33

human cost there are. Workers

13:36

that are being underpaid are not being

13:38

paid what we consider to be a living wage

13:40

no last some may operate

13:42

under. Working conditions and,

13:45

workers might develop long term health

13:47

conditions due to exposure

13:50

with chemicals and dies

13:55

notify them Silver near move

13:57

and upset them we used to drink water

13:59

from this river.

14:00

Cook food was it now we can even

14:02

wash her hands here we get rushes in our

14:04

see if we stand in these party fields we

14:06

can eat fish from these waters don't,

14:08

you see there are no more fishermen around. in

14:11

a we've heard about a factory

14:14

claps and bangladesh that

14:16

Over a thousand people.

14:18

And most of these requirement workers

14:20

and

14:28

the notorious last fall.

14:30

There was a deadly fire at a factory that produced

14:32

clothes for Disney Walmart and

14:34

Sears that

14:40

type of backbreaking Labor, that they

14:42

experience to produce clothes

14:44

mainly for the West. This

14:46

is a to his nearest official rather. And

14:49

it has closed.

14:50

It can no longer cope with the around

14:53

sixty tons of clothing waste

14:55

a day now. places like

14:57

this Informal dumped are multiplying.

15:01

It's become basically a dumping ground

15:03

for billions of, you know, quote

15:05

unquote donated garments the hear coming

15:07

from North America, Europe,

15:10

Australia.

15:18

Harry, I have a confession about four years ago.

15:21

I started divesting from fast fashion

15:23

Alice I thought I was until he told me have made

15:26

well it, could still be considered

15:28

Sasson. but before

15:30

and after that point i bought a lot

15:32

of clothes from a son

15:34

am and a so A

15:37

lot of close. Why

15:39

did I feel so he is? The for consumers

15:42

to turn a blind eye to the costs of

15:44

this industry.

15:45

I think first of all the phrase

15:47

such as "She has been around"

15:50

For so long and

15:53

the, it also seems like a new, the poor

15:55

labor practices. I say

15:57

prevalent like across the board

15:59

and. At a certain point, I think it's

16:01

easy for consumers to be

16:03

desensitized to

16:06

kind of the burden that they cease to make

16:08

good, sustainable choices in

16:10

it. Really hard to avoid bike

16:13

and cipher bursting your bubble. You

16:15

know unless you're shopping second hand

16:17

are buying some small

16:19

local handmade retailers a

16:21

lot of these brands of to implement

16:23

said and these manufacturing

16:26

systems implode as into their business

16:28

model I. also think also

16:30

many modern day consumers are

16:34

He. Divorced from the reality of the

16:36

river that's poured into their clothes,

16:38

I think there was once a time bomb

16:41

people knew someone who is in the car

16:43

industry so people

16:45

were. More active and mending their clothes

16:47

and repairing and simmering their clothes

16:49

and now that basically is

16:52

no longer encourage the.

16:54

system assess as has also worked

16:56

how customers perceive the price

16:58

on all of all sudden it just doesn't make sense

17:00

anymore to spend money on well crafted clothes

17:03

or even to kill or something

17:05

I recently watched a documentary about

17:07

the Triangle shirtwaist fire.

17:09

March Twenty Fifth Nineteen eleven All

17:12

these forces converged in an historic

17:14

reckoning when a fire broke out

17:16

in a factory in downtown Manhattan killing.

17:19

one hundred and forty six people Mostly

17:22

young women and teenage girls. What

17:24

hit me after watching that was that? There

17:27

before we talked about.

17:29

Factory is collapsing on garment

17:31

workers in Bangladesh and killing

17:33

thousands of people, we had these

17:35

issues that home it was largely poor.

17:37

Immigrant women who died in the Triangle

17:40

shirtwaist fire. This kind

17:42

of a constant problem for

17:44

the Sasson and apparel industry that's

17:46

just never really been solved.

17:49

Yeah, the fashion fuel industry has

17:52

always operated on the labour of,

17:54

you know, working class men and

17:56

women immigrants, you know, people

17:58

of color, it's just. Green

18:00

Beckham Outsource Dinner moved from

18:02

our day to day reality is: "I think like New

18:04

York and Los Angeles, for example,

18:07

used to be like Parliament

18:09

manufacturing capitals. The United

18:11

States, I think it's shit. Or when we

18:14

moved overseas and so we don't think

18:16

are engaged with that and the

18:18

realities of people not making, you know,

18:20

a living wage for producing close,

18:22

it's just something we don't really think about offense

18:25

as politically and like socially.

18:28

And we've talked a lot about you young

18:30

people being the primary consumers

18:32

of fast, fast sense, but we also know

18:35

that young people especially it's NZ

18:37

have sustainability and the environment

18:40

at the top of their. Political priorities

18:43

I'm as consciousness about these issues

18:45

grows, are we? Seeing consumers

18:48

push fast, fast and to do better, I

18:50

definitely think there are.

18:52

The emphasis from consumers that

18:55

since the should have nice said you better.

19:03

Even really, a number of public

19:05

relations campaigns and kind as greenwashing

19:08

efforts with the Ostomy cleared

19:10

for recycling son by companies

19:13

to come, though, unless the scene ability as

19:15

it.

19:24

Lot of murky know there there's a lot as yard

19:27

talk and even for

19:29

a very conscious consumer like yours. Oh,

19:31

you said you gave up finishing i try,

19:34

and you know traditional. Fashion

19:36

brand I'm. a they're still

19:38

just as underbelly of misinformation

19:41

are hidden information that unless you're really in the

19:43

weeds about acts it's really easy

19:45

to think that you know you're doing enough and

19:47

you're making ethical decision

19:52

So what do we do, Terry, how do you know the brand

19:54

is the real deal?

19:56

The first thing you can do as to

19:58

shop from the. Friends or stores

20:01

about are clear about their supply

20:03

chain. And really investigate

20:05

the definition of sustainable, am

20:08

I always try to be critical when I see that

20:10

label when brands presented to me,

20:12

especially when they're giving

20:14

me a new item, Binds and

20:16

Head Spy? Use your second

20:18

hand goods. It always, you know,

20:21

the most sustained. The worst thing you can do or

20:23

just. Not by had all,

20:26

and I think that's a really hard. The solution,

20:28

when you presented to consumers.

20:30

Who are rightfully so very tired

20:33

out in a bear, the burden of making

20:35

sure that making the decision.

20:37

I don't think second hand could be

20:39

pretty economical, but it seems like

20:42

if you want new clothes and just can't afford

20:44

some of the sustainable but more expensive

20:47

clothes fast fasten might be your

20:49

best option.

20:51

Ray, I think that's an argument that

20:53

I've heard a lot, especially reporting

20:55

on fast fashion, and again

20:57

to mention it or barber. Though could

20:59

hear about this, and she said that. Low

21:02

income people are not.

21:03

Being a be his arm multibillion

21:05

to hear syndication complete the set

21:08

and it's an accumulation of

21:10

income from middle

21:12

class upper middle class people.

21:14

The wealthy people as love keeping

21:17

the fashion industry paying

21:19

for the ball if you're buying,

21:21

and you know five items of clothing

21:24

from Zara year and you're wearing.

21:27

The shirt, their the pants until they wrapped

21:29

in what you're doing is more sustainable

21:31

and someone sues changing other closet.

21:34

Every couple of months. includes

21:37

overall has gotten so

21:39

affordable all over the past, you know,

21:41

ten twenty years. That I

21:43

don't think it's the right to make

21:46

this an argument about, you know, low

21:48

income shoppers because Lewington

21:50

shoppers the amount of money

21:52

be provided or just. The early create

21:54

a dent in the process of these,

21:56

not the corporation. The

22:01

your listener.

22:02

Like, okay today explained, you've made

22:04

me feel sufficiently guilty about the close

22:06

I buy on how

22:08

much impact can an

22:10

individual consumer changing their ways.

22:13

Have on the fast fashion industry and,

22:16

on the environment

22:18

Yeah, it's a tricky question because

22:20

it.

22:20

With an individual versus

22:22

corporate responsibility and

22:24

it's frustrating because individuals

22:27

no matter how much we try we.

22:29

just know carbon footprint nice and In

22:32

each man like says, is their

22:34

supply chain differently or produce as much

22:36

less like not much, it's going to change,

22:39

but I also do think that person.

22:42

Tweeted. Carry weights and

22:44

although it's hard to quantify the environmental

22:46

impact of individualized

22:48

filed on you can be vocal

22:51

about ad and start discussions

22:54

critical, discussions malfunction that may

22:56

lead to. Policy change

22:58

as an interesting spreading

23:00

awareness, like pulling your friends,

23:02

that this brand that they're setting from

23:05

might not be the best friend for

23:07

the of our a manner that this. Branded lines

23:09

you about, how they're producing

23:11

their go is a good way to. just know

23:13

how people to become smarter

23:16

suffered Yeah.

23:27

Harry One covers consumer and internet

23:29

trends for the goods at vox you

23:31

can head over to vox dot.com com to see all

23:33

her writing on fast fashion. Today's

23:36

show was produced by our supervising producer

23:38

I'm in the al Saadi, the rest of

23:40

the Today explained team includes producers

23:43

Miles Brian Victoria Chamberlain,

23:46

hiding mo id and will read. Laura

23:49

Bullard that checks to sell Matt,

23:51

collect edits it, and it seems Shapiro

23:53

is or engineering. The your music

23:55

from Break Master cylinder and sometimes. No,

23:57

and Hassenfeld. Can

23:59

we know? The in his the vice president a box

24:01

audio and Gillian Weinberger is

24:03

her deputy I'm. only my socks

24:06

and some ramos from will be back with us "Next

24:08

week, it's today", explained. Thanks

24:10

for listening the