BONUS TIME. Whether you're a coach looking for some pointers or an athlete who's curious about what it looks like to work with a professional coach, this episode is for you. Get the behind the scenes on what goes into training with me on a Go

Ep 57: Good vs. great training and nutrition, "from 'meh' to kickass!"

5 days ago 1h 6m

The great news about pursuing excellence in your training and nutrition? "Great" doesn't have to mean complicated or time consuming. If you're ready to take your training and nutrition from "just ok" to totally awesome, strap in, we're about t

SB: Top 3 time management pitfalls of busy climbers

12 days ago 30m 57s

Having an awesome training program to follow is great, but you won't get much in the way of results if you don't actually do it. And that's where time management comes in. So you can ✅ get to the gym when you say you're going to✅ have the ene

Training Q&A: tackling fear on lead, comp style climbing, and balancing multiple hobbies

13 days ago 30m 51s

Answering YOUR listener questions. We're covering- a quick + dirty strategy to work through a fear of lead climbing- ramping back into climbing post-ski season- combining climbing + running- getting into bouldering as a sport climberand mo

Ep 55: What climbers get wrong about power

13 days ago 1h 18m

Power is one of the most misunderstood training concepts in climbing. And in this episode we're breaking down- the movement skills climbers confuse for a power deficit- the difference between strength and power- how to avoid common power dev

Ep 56: What to do when you aren't improving, "use facts not vibes"

19 days ago 1h 11m

In this episode we're covering- the difference between FEELING like you're plateaued and actually being in one- the low hanging fruit you might be missing if you truly aren't making progress despite your best effortsMEGABETA BAG: www.getmeg

Nutrition Q&A: Collagen, Creatine, and How long to "bulk"

Apr 11th, 2024 27m 34s

We love serving up answers to your questions, so tune in for some listener nutrition Q&A.In this episode, we discuss:- the truth about collagen research- what a bulking phase is, and how long you can reasonably do it for- the need-to-knows

Ep 54: Does your nutrition approach feel fuzzy? "It's time for a vibe check"

Apr 4th, 2024 1h 3m

For something as simple as eating, the amount of conflicting (and scientifically unfounded) advice out there is astounding. In a quick Google search, you could find 5001 things in your diet that are "going to kill you" or "give you cancer" or "

SNACK BREAK: How to *actually* help your friend who just started climbing

Mar 28th, 2024 33m 6s

If you have a friend who just started climbing, you probably want to help them out. You want to give them pointers and teach them what you wish you'd have known when YOU started climbing.But sometimes, the "help" you're giving is actually hin

Episode 53: Know the difference between sports nutrition and basic nutrition, “carbs are king”

Mar 21st, 2024 1h 11m

Food is food, right? Sure. But before you go jumping into drinking tart cherry juice and dry scooping creatine - let's make sure you have your base nutrition covered. In this episode we're diving into✅ the difference between basic and sports

SNACK BREAK: Eat the rainbow! Our top three tips for eating more veggies

Mar 14th, 2024 21m 8s

We all know that veggies are good for you, and that eating enough of them is important for your health and wellbeing. So why is it so hard to eat enough of them? In this episode we cover✅ why eating vegetables is important✅ how to figure out

Episode 52: Overtraining vs. Under-recovering and physical therapy red flags, "not just a shark" with Dr. Parker Farabee

Mar 7th, 2024 1h 21m

Dr. Parker Farabee is a man of many talents - climbing, ultra-running, and being a kick-ass physical therapist, specializing in outdoor athletes as well as support for athletes with neurological conditions. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com

SNACK BREAK: How to deal with bad body image days

Feb 22nd, 2024 32m 34s

No matter how many self love affirmation meditations you do, there are probably going to be days where you feel less than amazing about the way your body looks. So what can you do in those instances? And how can you keep these rough body image

Episode 51: Six things to look for in a climbing partner + unbelievable venmo requests + listener submitted pet peeves

Feb 15th, 2024 1h 6m

It's February and love is in the air - and what better time to talk about the most sacred of our relationships: our climbing partnerships.In this episode we're sharing the top six things we look for in our climbing partners. And we have some

SNACK BREAK: How to keep your nutrition goals alive

Feb 8th, 2024 37m 19s

It's February - which means we're about a month into whatever goal, resolution, or habit you've been trying to pursue since January first. And the question is? Is that ambition still alive? Or did it get left behind last month? Either way, yo

Episode 50: Using pain to heal, highball bouldering, ego climbing, and dealing with fear. “Don’t tell my mom about this” with Dr. Davis Ngo

Feb 1st, 2024 1h 41m

In this episode we're doing a tell-all with Dr. Davis Ngo, AKA Rehab Daddy. Maybe you know him from his hysterical climbing reels. Perhaps you've seen his stunning ascents of some of Bishop's spiciest highball boulders. No matter what, you're g

SNACK BREAK: Sneaky strategies for doing big moves (that you can start using RIGHT NOW)

Jan 25th, 2024 32m 6s

When the hold feels impossibly far away, or when you keep tapping a hold, but you can't seem to latch it... You just need to try harder, right? Maybe. Maybe not. In this episode we're teaching you our sneakiest strategies for making those big

Episode 49: training with your humanity in mind and coaching comprehensively, “more than a jiffy” with Dr. Lara Pence

Jan 18th, 2024 1h 19m

Whether you're a coach who works with climbers, or you're an athlete looking to be a more compassionate self-coach, this episode is a must-listen. We're getting a behind the scenes look into how renowned clinical psychologist Dr. Lara Pence hel

SNACK BREAK: Mastering High Feet + Pistol Squat Moves

Jan 11th, 2024 37m 14s

Do you hate those scrunchy moves where your knee is in your face? Do those pistol squatty moves make you cringe? Well then this this episode is a must-listen. In this snack break we're bringing your our top tips for high foot, scrunchy moves. L

Episode 48: How to plan a year of climbing (without getting overwhelmed)

Jan 4th, 2024 1h 6m

Whether you're a "spreadsheet person", or planning gives you the ICK, there's value in having a plan - even if you don't exactly follow it. In this episode we're breaking down how to plan a year of climbing (no pencil-gnawing, hair pulling, or

SNACK BREAK: Your essential year-end nutrition reflection

Dec 28th, 2023 32m 18s

A major AH-HA! moment is just a few questions away when with this guided nutrition reflection. So before you go diving into 2024, take a step back and consider how your nutrition impacted all areas of your life this year. And have a few laughs

Episode 47: ”Merry Witchmas! Get your Yule log ready!”, what we want you to let go of in the new year

Dec 21st, 2023 1h 10m

Today we're bringing you some history on the tradition of yule logs - any tying it into your climbing and nutrition goals for the new year. You can always use some inspiration when setting new goals and this is a magical (and witchy!) place to

Episode 46: ”the 30 day rule”, acquiring new skills outside and in the gym with Karly Rager

Dec 14th, 2023 1h 16m

There's a good chance there's a type of climbing you refer to as an "anti-style".Whether it's slopers, steeps, slabs, or crimps - we'd bet there's a certain type of climbing that feels especially hard for you.So how do you go from "anti-style

SNACK BREAK: ”Happy Holidays! do you feel guilty enough yet?” the holiday pep talk you didn’t know you needed

Dec 7th, 2023 37m 34s

The most wonderful time of the year? In some ways it is. And in other ways it can be the most challenging. Whether you're facing grief, difficult family dynamics, or simply a MOUNTAIN of extra to-dos and social invitations, the holidays can be

INTRODUCING WRITTEN IN STONE: Lynn Hill reaches Critical Mass

Nov 30th, 2023 21m 53s

Hey there Average Climber - our crew is taking a break this week! We'll be back for more next week, in the meantime, check out episode one of Written in Stone. If you like the Average Climber Podcast, we can guarantee you'll LOVE this.Learn m